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ERRATA 

In connection with illustration Burial Of Perry Victory 
Dead on page 43, the following notice should have 
appeared : Copyright by John Deike, 1912 — Used by 
permission. 

The illustration — Warehouse At Catawba Island on 
page 524, is copyrighted by Country Life in America 
Magazine Co. and is here used by permission. 

The ornamental design used in connection with view 
of Perry Memorial on book cover was drawn by H. A. 
Herbster, of Put-in-Bay. 



SKETCHES AND STORIES 



OF THE 



LAKE ERIE ISLANDS 



BY 
LYDIA J. RYALL 



PERRY CENTENNIAL EDITION 

1813—1913 



NOR>X ALK, OHIO 

THE AMERICAN PUBLISHERS CO. 

1913 



COPYRIGHTED 1913 

BY 
LYDIA J. RYALL 



.rQ 



€C!.A330961 



Table of Contents. 



Page 

Fair Erie's Isles (Illustrated Poem) 9 

An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 12 

Perry's Mascot (Illustrated Poem) 40 

An Interesting Historical Picture and Its Painter 42 

A Youthful Patriot and His Tragic Fate 47 

A Coronal of Verse and Song 55 

Put-in-Bay 68 

Hotel Victory 105 

Early Recollections of an Old-Timer 114 

Middle Bass and Her Attractions 121 

Famous Middle Bass Club 130 

Isle De Fleurs (Illustrated Poem) 138 

Isle St. George and Its Attractions 142 

Resources and Phenomenal Development of Kelley's Island 161 
The Limestone Industry — ^Some of Its Interesting and 

Picturesque Features 182 

Summering at an Island Resort 190 

The Romantic Shores from Which Commodore Perry's 

Ships Took Ballast 220 

"Call It Square" — True Story of Rattlesnake Island 231 

Pt. Au Pelee Island: Its Romantic History and Present 

Prosperity 237 

The Life and Adventures of Alexander McCormick. . . . 245 

"Chestnut Burr" 250 

Some Later History of Pt. Au Pelee Island 262 

Pelee Island Fishin.g Club 274 

A Batch of Up-to-date Fish Stories Told by Well- 
known Adepts of the Angling Art 278 



iv Contents. 

Page 

Memories of Jay Cooke and Glimpses of liis Island Strong- 
hold 305 

Captain John Brown, Jr 321 

Owen and Jason Brown 334 

John Yates Beall — His Piratical Exploit on Lake Erie .... 344 
Johnson's Island: Its Thrilling Reminiscences and Historical 

Burial Grounds 359 

Thrilling Adventures on Island Waters 380 

The Three Fishers 380 

Wreck of the Yacht "Clipper" 382 

A Midwinter Storm 386 

Honored for Heroism by "Uncle Sam" 388 

A Canoeing Adventure and Its Sequel 394 

"The Mystery of a Ship" 396 

Lights Out (Poem) 404 

Lake Erie Light Keepers: Their Trials and Adventures .. 407 

Tying a Row Together (Poem) 421 

Grape Culture Among the Erie Isles 424 

October Glintings (Illustrated Poem) 435 

Catawba Island, the Great Peach Growing Center of Ohio. . 442 

The Peach Growing Industry of Catawba Island 458 

The Last of the Ottawas 462 

Fish Hatchery Work at Put-in-Bay 465 

Fishing Interests 472 

Glimpses of the Underworld at Put-in-Bay 478 

An Important Geological Field; Evidences of Glacial Action 489 

Winter Fishing Through the Ice 496 

Icy (Poem) 503 

Blood-curdling Adventures on the Ice 506 

Carrying the Mail 527 

Automobiling Across Lake Erie 536 

A Bunch of Emeralds 539 



Introduction. 



True to the name it bears, the following work com- 
prises a series of Sketches and Stories constructed at 
random from the large amount of legendary', reminiscent, 
and historic lore connected with that most romantic and in 
teresting locality — the Lake Erie islands. 

While the author lays no claim to the dignity of an 
historian, her aim throughout has been to unearth and 
to preserve every available fact bearing upon the general 
history of these beautiful isles. Central, and most sig- 
nificant of historic facts attaching thereto, is that so 
strikingly shown by their renown as the scene of Perry's 
Victory, Sept. 10th, 1913, the Centennial anniversary of 
which this book is designed to commemorate. 

A fonner Souvenir Edition of Sketches and Stories, 
issued in 1898, was sold out soon after publication, while 
the demand for same has continued, a demand which the 
author is now a])le to supply. 

The Perry Centennial Edition is a decided improve- 
ment on the first issue, much of the old matter in the 
way of stories having been substituted by new material; 
while historic, descriptive, and other matter that could not 
be excluded, has been carefully brushed of cobwebs. Ad- 

(5) 



vi Intrudaction. 

ditions and amplifications have been made, and the whole 
brought strictly up to date. 

The large amount of new illustrative matter used, in- 
volving largely increased costs for publication of work, 
will undoubtedly prove an exceptional feature of interest. 

Author. 



\^sr^r^:i^w^T^Wfi fT::j ' 




3mx 



^' IrtFB 






Each sheltered bay, where shadows play, 
'Neath cragged rocks of mottled gray ; 
With varying hue they mirror true. 
Bright clouds that fleck the waters blue. 

The dipping oar in soft encore, 
Faint echoes wake along the shore ; 
And gliding boat, or launch afloat, 
Appear, with spectral sails remote. 

The savage red, here wooed, and wed. 
And fought his foes, and freely bled; 
And here 'mid wiles of Summer's smiles; 
Rests the fair group of Erie's isles. 
(9) 



10 Fair Eric's Isles. 

Where vineyards roll in g-reen, and gold 
The red chief set his totem pole; 
And lightly through the channels blue, 
Speeded his fragile bark canoe. 




Tlic i)ioneer, filled he with fear, 
And stretched upon a bloody bier; 
And promptings dire of British ire, 
Caused him the victim's home to fire. 



With shi])s of oak, and guns that spoke. 
And far and near the echoes woke — 
Came Perry then, with stalwart men; 
Scaring the red chief to his den. 



Fair Erie's Isles. 



11 



The challenge bold — as oft retold, 
From smoking guns defiant rolled; 
For Perry met, in fierce onset, 
The British fleet, and decks were wet; 

With crimson gore, as downward bore. 
The ships — midst smoke, and battle's roar 
]Momentous day! for in the fray, 
The fortunes of a nation lay. 




But why repeat the rout complete. 
And capture too of Barkley's fleet; 
'Tis known and sung by old and young. 
And lauded high by every tongue. 

A hundred Springs, with vernal wings, 
Have passed— still each a tribute brings ; 
Where rests today, the lifeless clay. 
Of Perrv's dead at Put-in-Bay. 



An Historic Event And Its 
Local Setting. 




Commodore Perry Crossing in an Open Boat from the 
Disabled "Lawrence" to the "Niagara" 

In the asti Illation of the native islander, September 
tenth — anniversary of Perry's Victory on Lake Erie — 
ranks quite as high in importance as the Fourth of July. 
The former appeals even more strongly to his sentiments 
because of its local setting. From infancy he has treas- 
ured its traditions, and celebrated with patriotic devotion 
its annual returns. 

In view of the Centennial anniversary of this historic 
battle, and the world famous memorial commemorating it, 
so recently provided by the United States government, in 
conjunction with the sanction and financial support of 
varioiLS states, including Ohio, the event has assured a 

(12) 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 13 

greatly intensified interest. Attention and comment has 
been attracted thereby in Europe and throughout civil- 
ized countries on both continents. 

The decisive blow^ dealt Great Britain — for centuries 
deemed most invincible on land and sea of all earth's 
powers — by Commodore Perry, could not do otherwise, in 
fact, than attract the homage of a hero-admiring world. 

The first celebration of Perrj^'s Victory at Put-in- 
Bay occurred about the year 1852, the occasion proving 
most auspicious. This was long before the modern ''Sum- 
mer Girl" had budded, or the place had been thought of 
as a summer resort — ponnanent settlement of the island 
having been late in comparison with that of the adjacent 
mainland. All that then redeemed the island from ob- 
scurity was its storied fame, and the charm of its romantic 
shores. 

This initial anniversary was rendered memorable by 
the presence of Wm. H. Harrison, Commander-in-Chief 
of United States forces on the Northwestern frontier 
during the war of 1812. Present also, on this occasion, 
was Captain Elliott, commander of the ship ' ' Niagara, ' ' to 
which — ^after the disabling of the "Lawrence" — Perry, and 
his crew of sailors and marines, crossed in an open boat, 
the "Niagara" afterwards becoming flagship of the fleet. 
There were also present Governor Cass of Michigan, and 
many others whose names figure prominently both in mili- 
tary' and civic history; together wdth about sixty sur- 
vivors of the battle. At an unpretentious hostelry — the 
old "Perry Tavern" — were entertained many of these 
veterans who fought with Perry. ]\Iine host of this island 
tavern, Henry Beebe — afterwards proprietor of the ' ' Beebe 
House" — treasured amongst his belongings a miLsty ledger 
containing the registered names of these survivors. 



14 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 




"Mine Host" of the "Perry House" Who Entertained Sixty Sur- 
vivors of the Battle 

Participants numbering- about 15,000 arrived by 
special steamers from almost e\Qvy lake port- between De- 
troit and Erie. Besides tbe "Tavern," kept by ]Mr. Beebe, 
there was but one additional hostelry on the island. This 
was little more than a larg-e sized dwelling. In view of 
such inadequate accommodations, most of these people 
came with well provisioned baskets ; and grocers and 
restaurant keepers of Sandusky — anticipating the event — 
erected temporary stands at which they dispensed hospi- 
tality. 

Flag decorations were elaborate, bands discoursed 
music, and thrilling addresses were made over the graves 
of Briton and American who fell in the Battle of Lake 
Erie, and were buried on Put-in-Bay. 

Gazing upon the mound which forty-five years before 
they had a.ssisted in heaping above their fallen comrades, 



An Historic Event and Its Local 'Setting 



15 



and toiiehed by memories thereby awakened, some of the 
men broke down — shedding tears. After the manner of 
our Civil War veterans, the survivors lived over again the 
events of 1812-1813, detailing in language simple, but 
terse, their experiences in connection with the engagement. 
But few of the number had set foot upon the island since 
that memorable morn when the dead boats with their 
bearers swept shoreward with measured stroke, grinding 
keels upon the then silent and deserted isle, where, with 
impressive ceremony, the remains of the fallen were con- 
sisted to earth. 




The Island Historian 



16 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

An incident that oeenrred in connection wdth this oc- 
casion is related by Mr. Philip Vroman, who, as the oldest 
inhabitant, tigiires also as island historian. 

Standing at his elbow, Mr. Vroman noticed a man of 
worn and grizzled appearance, with head inclined and 
tears coursing down his cheeks. On being accosted, the 
man lifted his head, and pointing to the mound said : 

"Here lie my comrades. Forty -five years ago today 
we gathered here to perform for them our last service. 
Gazing once more upon the spot, under circumstances so 
impressive, brings upon me an overpowering flood of 
recollection. ' ' 

In reply to inquiries, the old veteran gave some per- 
sonal experiences of the battle, as follows : 

"With a large detachment of our men, I was yonder 
on the little rocky island, now known as Gibraltar, when 
Barkley's squadron was sighted approaching from the 
Northwest. We lost no time in getting back to our 
vessels, which were swinging at anchor in the harbor. 
There was a bustle of hasty preparation, a straining of 
blocks, and cordage, a flap of canvas as the sails were un- 
furled, and din of voices as officers shouted their orders 
from vessel to vessel. Our fleet passed out of the shel- 
tered bay between 'Peach Point,' and Middle Bass Island. 
That September morning was as beautiful as any that I 
have ever seen. When about Ave miles north of Put-in- 
Bay, we encountered the British." 

An historical writer states that it was fifteen nainutes 
to twelve, when the buglers and fifers on board the 
British flagship struck up "Rule Britannia," and a shot 
from a 24-pounder came skimming across the water 
towards the "Lawrence" — but so oft has been told and re- 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



17 



told tlie story of the battle,, that a repetition in this con- 
nection would be superfluous. 

After a description of the fight, the narrater closed 
with an account of the burial of the dead at Put-in-Bay. 
Six officers, three American, three British, were interred 
on site marked by the famous "Perry willow," or "lone 
willow," that formerly marked the graves of the slain 
officers. This willow, according to local tradition, grew 
from a shoot imbedded in the mound by a sur\qvor a few 
days after the battle. It took root in the fertile soil and 
became a stately tree, serving as the only mark placed up- 




"'Lone Willow" in Its Last Days 



18 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

on the graves. The tree attracted general observation, 
and was photographed by thousands of artists. In later 
years it began showing signs of decay, and on April 17th, 
1900 — having weathered the storms of nearly a century — 
it fell to earth when scarce a breath of air was stirring. 

About its prostrate trunk with feelings of genuine 
reverence, the islanders gathered, and many fragments 
of its bark and branches were carried away as souvenirs. 
The remaining trunk was then sawed into lengths, and 
stowed away by an islander, who still holds it in his posses- 
sion. 

The first notable celebration of this historic battle in 
1852 was followed by other memorable anniversaries, its 
survivors showing up year by year as long as they lived, 
and were able to reach the island. Many of these were 
entertained as personal friends at the home of the late 
Judge Wm. Lockwood, who on several of these occasions, 
figured as chairman of committee of arrangements. Note- 
worthy among the number was Dr. Usher Parsons, acting 
surgeon of Perry's flagship, and of the fleet, and who at 
the dedication of the Perry Monument at Cleveland in 
1860 was the last surviving commissioned officer of the 
squadron. Other guests of Judge Lockwood were Dr. W, 
T. Taliaferro, a volunteer sergeant from Harrison's 
army, later a physician of prominence in Cincinnati, and 
the Hon. C. S. Todd of Louisville, Kentuelcy. 

The family of Judge Lockwood still retain in their 
possession, as souvenirs, a package of letters received by 
him from some of these survivors, which possess unusual 
interest both as relics and as to the matter which they 
contain. One of the number, penned in a strong, clear 
hand, runs as follows : 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 19 

"Cincinnati, Ohio, Sept. 1st, '59 

"Judge Lockwood, 
"Dear Sir: 

"Your letter duly received was forwarded immedi- 
ately to Col. Todd. He said in reply: 

**I will be at your house on the 5th; Norris will be 
with me. Providence permitting, we will start Monday 
the 6th, and hope to reach Put-in-Bay the same day, at 8 
P. i\I. I hope that you have published the event in all 
newspapers — Detroit, Toledo, Sandusky, Cleveland, Buf- 
falo, etc. I have published a notice of the grand rally in 
our city papers ; in Louisville, Lexington, Marysville, Paris, 
and Sharpsburg, Kentucky, also in Bedford, Pa., Wash- 
ington City, and Petersburg, Virginia. There may be 
some survivors of the "Petersburg Blues" — probably the 
finest drilled company of Harrison's army — six were 
volunteer marines on Perry's fleet. 

"We rejoice to know that the distinguished Col. C. S. 
Todd of Kentucky is to deliver the next annual address. 
Col. Todd is one of the most eloquent speakers in the state. 
He was General Harrison's aide-de-camp and was as- 
sociated with Com. Perry in military operations in the 
Northwest, afterwards succeeding him in a mission to 
Columbia, South America. 

"I hope to meet 100,000 fellow citizens on the 10th, 
which will aid our association in the erection of a superior 
monument. 

"I invited Ed. V. Campbell, of California to deliver 



20 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



a poem of twenty-five minutes ' length on the occasion. He 
has accepted and prepared for the 10th and on the 11th 
Avill leave again for California. 
' ' Arise, soldiers, arise ! 

"Present regards to your lady and family. 
"Truly yours, 

"W. J. Taliaferro." 




Dr. Taliaferro, 
Surgeon of Perry's Flagship 



Col. Todd, mentioned in above letter, was a noted con- 
tributor to history of the campaign after Perry's great 
battle. Following is a letter from Col. Todd himself to 
Taliaferro, forwarded by the latter to Judge Lockwood. 



A.n Historic Event and Its Local Setting 21 

"Louisville, Ky., September 2, 1868. 
"Dr. W. J. Taliaferro: 

"Having noticed a proposed celebration on Lake Erie 
of the 55th anniversary of Perry's Victory, Sept. 10th, 
and that you will be there, I take the liberty of enclosing 
to you an article published last year in a newspaper of this 
city, and ask you to present my cordial respects to Dr. 
Usher Parsons, Captain Champlin, and all who may meet 
on the anniversary of that glorious day. 

"I was a captain in the regular army and aide-de- 
camp to Gen. Harrison, and was sent with Major Hukell 
to ascertain results of the battle. We left Fort Sandusky 
in an open boat and were driven by a storm on what is 
now known as Kelley's Island. The exposure there seized 
upon i\Ia,j. Hukell's lungs and he died the following 
winter at Lexington, Ky. 

"I descended the lake in Perry's vessel, the Ariel — - 
a packet — and by a singular coincident was sent by Presi- 
dent Monroe in 1820 to succeed Commodore Perry in 
South America. "We were together in Battle of The 
Thames, and on one occasion his secretary rode along the 
line of infantry, announcing that the Commodore had 
been "waterlogged," his horse being fast ned across a 
tree lying in the swamp. I had suffered the same fate 
while passing with an order to the left to reinforce the 
regiment of Johnson — pressed by the Indians. 

"In 1824 I returned to South America on board the 
frigate John Adams, on which Admiral Farragut was a 
lieutenant, and the smartest man on board ship. 

"In after years I visited the line of battleship 
Pennsylvania, of Norfolk, and made myself known to 
Captain Hugh Page by asking him to have a steak of 
shark for dinner — a dish he alone relished on the cruise 



22 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



of the Adams. Lieut. Lee and others, I do not now recollect 
belonged to the fleet on Lake Erie, and we had a jollifica- 
tion on the 10th of September. 

"Rejoicing in your former patriotism, and your pres- 
ent prosperity, 

''I am yours, 

"C. S. Todd.'' 




The Late Judge Wm. Lockwood 

A second epistle addressed to Judge Lockwood con- 
tains the following passage : 

"If God should permit you and I to meet at Put-in- 
Bay, September 10th, I do hope your committee will have 
made a pennant twenty-five feet in length containing the 
words : 

" 'We have met the enemy and they are ours.' 
"You and committee and I must act in concert and 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 23 

exert ourselves to eclipse the meeting of 1859, when we 
had 25,000 people at laying of the corner stone on Perry's 
Lookout. ' ' 

One by one the veterans dwindled in numbers, until, 
in 1868, all that remained of the gallant band — so far as 
known — were Capt. Stephen Champlin, Col. John Norris, 
Dr. Usher Parsons, and Dr. Taliaferro. From Providence, 
Rhode Island, under August 8, 1868, the latter writes as 
follows : 

"The tenth of September is drawing near when w^e 
have engaged to commemorate once more the victory on 
Lake Erie. With failing health, I fear that I shall not be 
able to join you as agreed upon, for life and health are not 
at our own disposal. I hope that you will go and if I fail 
to get there, please give my kind regards to such of our 
friends as retain remembrance of me. 

"Captain Stephen Champlin, of Buffalo, I hope will 
be remembered. He commanded one of Perry's vessels, and 
fired the first and last gun in our squadron. If I go to 
Put-in-Bay, I shall call for him at Buffalo. 

"Your friend, very truly, 

"Usher Parsons. '^ 

Shortly after penning the above. Captain Parsons re- 
sponded to the final summons and passed into the silent 
bourne. 

In a letter from Captain Champlin — who is men- 
tioned in above letter — he also complains of ill health and 
confinement to his room from the effects of a wound, mak- 
ing it impossible to meet his old friends at Put-in-Bay. 

As to which of the remaining trio proved the last 
survivor of the battle the writer has been unable to as- 



24 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

certain — a silence akin to that of death having fallen over 
and blotted out all further records of these historic figures. 

In addition to the above-mentioned leters left among 
the effects of Judge Lockwood, there was still another ad- 
dressed to the Judge by a decendant of the Perry Family, 
and containing information of interest concerning the 
Perry relationship. 

Still another memorable celebration of Perry 's Victory, 
in more recent years, was the unveiling of the colossal 
bronze statue — ^'' VICTORY" — masterpiece of a great 




"Victory" Monument at Victory Park 

artist, in the grounds of Hotel Victory, at Put-in-Bay. 
On this occasion — though rain fell incessantly all day — 
crowds came from long distances and there was hardly 
standing room in the cabins of the regular and special 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 25 

steamers that brought them. The electric cars connecting 
the "Bay" with "Victory Park" were crowded to their 
utmost capacity, while long lines of walkers, forming an 
umbrella brigade, tramped their way through dripping rain. 
Amons: individuals of distinction were Vice President 




Monument Commemorating Battle of Lake Erie on Gibraltar 
Island, Erected by Jay Cooke 



26 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

Fairl);uiks and a grandson of the illustrious Perry. Taking 
the name of his grandfather, strange indeed it seemed, 
that after the lapse of nearly one hundred years another 
Oliver Hazard Perry should appear upon these shores to 
mingle with the wondering inhabitants, and to tread the 
soil once trodden by the hero of Lake Erie. The last sur- 
vivor of the battle had long since disappeared and their 
names — on this occasion — figured only as cherished 
memories. 

All the Government vessels on Lake Erie, including 
the United States training ships and revenue cutters, com- 
prising quite a formidable fleet, gathered for the occasion 
and lay at anchor in Victory bay, all displaying full suites 
of colors, and all a-bristle with cannon and fully manned 
with gay uniformed tars and marines. "When the big flags 
enveloping the statue were drawn aside the guns from the 
fleet thundered forth a prolonged salute — vivid flashes of 
powder amidst wreathing smoke added to the novel scene — 
while, from throngs of people crowning every point of the 
rocky shore, echoed resounding cheers. The first monu- 
ment commemorating the Battle of Lake Erie, a fine piece 
of sculpture, was erected many years ago on Gibraltar 
Island, by its late owner, Jay Cooke, the noted Philadelphia 
banker, and financier. 

Periodically agitated for long decades w^as the subject 
of a monument, commensurate in dignity with its intended 
purpose, namely, to mark the burial site at Put-in-Bay and 
to commemorate the battle in which they fell. The island- 
ers had for many long years a bone to pick with Cleveland. 
It took shape in the Perry Monument Fund— so termed— 
to which the island people freely contributed. Photographs 
of the "Periy mllon-" were sold in large numbers and the 
proceeds devoted to this fund. The monument ma- 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 27 

terialized: but, instead of being erected on the island, it 
was placed in the Cleveland Public Square. A number of 
historic cannon donated by the Government, and shipped 
to Put-in-Bay from the Brooklyn navy yards, now appear 
near the burial mound. The cannon were ranged in bat- 
teries along the shore front, while a base of ornamental 
stone, built where the "Perry willow" had stood, shows a 
pyramid of cannon balls. 




"Cannon Ball" Monument Over Burial Mound 

An old cannon figured conspicuously in the early 
history of Put-in-Bay. This piece of ordnance belonged, 
it is asserted, to one of Perry's ships, and was left on the 
island after the fight, in a disabled condition. This 
cannon was sold a few years ago to the town of Port 
Clinton. The citizens of that place feel proud of their 
acquisition, bringing it forth with great eclat, and profuse 
decorations, whenever a street parade is given. 

No little dispute has there been among local historians 
as to scene of the battle ; but considering the fact that 
Perry's fleet did not leave Put-in-Bay harbor until Bark- 



28 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



ley's ships were sighted approaching from the northwest, 
it is not probnble that the former had time to get very far 
from the bay, before meeting the enemy. 

A book entitled, "Building of the Nation," published 
in 1883 by Harper & Brothers, and of which Charles 
Carolton Coffin is author, gives in a line drawing a view of 
tlie battle scene. The shores of Put-in-Bay occupy the 
foreground in this picture, with rocky Gibraltar Isle near 
at hand ; while across the extremity, known as "Peach 
Point," appear the two opposing squadrons with the smoke 
of battle rolling blackly above them. If this delineation 
is authentic, the engagement of the two Heets must have 
occurred not over three or four miles from Put-in-Bay. 

As our ships sailed round Gibraltar island — according 
to an old historian — an American eagle was observed hover- 




A Relic of Perry's Victory 



All Historic Event and Its Local Setting 29 

ing over their topmasts. This augury was noted and ac- 
cepted hy Perry and his men as a cheering omen of 
victory. 

The same historian tells an amusing incident of Bark- 
ley's surrender. The British, it seems, had placed an 
Indian in one of the maintops for the purpose of picking 
off Commodore Perry's officers; but after the first broad- 
side, the Indian lost no time in getting below, where he 
was found partially hidden within the coils of a hawser. 

Perry's signal achievement opened up the way to 
Canada and the army of Gen. Harrison — reinforced by 
Gov. Shelby's volunteer troops, numbering 4,000, just ar- 
rived — was transported thither from Sandusky past the 
islands and up the lake by Perry's vessels, in eighty open 
boats, each carrying fifty men. The landing at a point a 
little below Maiden, as described by the renowned painter, 
Jouette, formed a magnificent spectacle. 

In an address by Vice President Fairbanks, mentioned 
in this connection, he observes as follows: 

- "When a boy just entering my teens, I witnessed the 
placing of that great painting in the rotunda of the Capitol 
at Columbus, which commemorates the victory of 
Commodore Perry on Lake Erie. The incident left a vivid 
impression on my mind. That historic canvas tells in a 
graphic way a splendid story, and will stimulate the 
patriotic ardor of the youth of this state for many years 
to come." 

In a paper read at a meeting of pioneers in Collins, 
Ohio. i\Irs. Harrington of Bloomingville, Ohio, narrates as 
below : 

"I have heard Father tell many a time how, on the 
memorable tenth of September, 1813, he went from the 
fort at Bloomingville with a number of men to help mow 



30 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

a prairie on the Ford place, and how he took with him my 
little brother Kalph, a little shaver of perhaps ten years. 
There was a large rock close by — there to this day — and 
Ralph, after playing till he grew sleepy, lay down on the 
big stone for a nap ; but unlike the Rip of literature, sleep 
was chased away by the dogs of war. The cannon's re- 
verberations, booming over the waters of old Erie, seemed 
to center in the stone, and in language plain as that of 
a phonograph said: 

' ' ' The battle is on : victory is ours. ' 

' ' After listening a moment, Ealph ran all out of breath 
to Father, and said : 

" 'That stone over there is singing.' 

" 'Singing?' replied Father in surprise. 

" 'What do yoii mean, child?' 

" 'Just come and see,' said Ralph. 

'■'Father put his ear to the stone and, sure enough, it 
was singing Avith unbounded demonstration the skill and 
courage of that, next to Washington, best loved American 
patriot — Commodore Perry. ' ' 

Concerning the deceudants and family connections 
of Commodore Perry there has been considerable inquiry 
and it may be of interest to readers of this sketch to learn 
that in addition to those of the Perry family living in 
Rhode Island, New York State, and Kentucky, a cousin 
of the Commodore, Dr. E. I. Perry, was, until his recent 
decease, a resident of Milan, Ohio — Edison's birthplace. 
Dr. Perry's father was a first cousin of the Commodore, 
and, as boys, the two attended school together. Referring 
to his early experiences, the doctor related the following: 

"One day I .saAv my father talking with a large man, 
a stranger whom he met on the wharf. I started to run 
away but father called and said : 



An Historical Event and Its Local Setting 33 



I i i - 



Elisha, I want you always to remember that you 
have shaken hands with Captain Champlin, who fought 
with your cousin on Lake Erie and who is also a cousin of 
Commodore Perry's wife.' " 

This incident was never forgotten by the doctor. 

Still another connection of this historic family resides 
at Sandusky, Ohio, ^Irs. D. C. Clary, wife of a retired lake 
captain. ^Irs. Clary's u'reat grandmother was a sister of 
Commodore Pei-ry. 

The fruition of the islanders' golden dream — that of 
securing- an appropriate monument — is practically due 
their own efforts. 

In November, 1907, the Put-in-Bay Board of Trade, at 
suggestion of Col. R. .J. Diegle, its publicity agent at the 
time, passed a resolution that started a movement to 
fittingly honor Commodore Oliver H. Perry and his brave 
men, for their splendid victoiy on Lake Erie, September 
]0, 1813, by having an appropriate memorial erected to 
their memory on Put-in-Bay Island ; and to further com- 
memorate this achievement, by holding a Centennial cele- 
bration in honor of that event in 1913. 

The resolution, then adopted, requested W. E. Bense, 
then Ottawa member of the Ohio Legislature, to introduce a 
bill in the next General Assembly of Ohio, authorizing ap- 
pointment, by the Governor, of five commissioners to pre- 
pare and carry out plans for a Centennial celebration at 
Put-in-Bay, in 1913, and the erection of a fitting memorial 
on said island. 

On June 22, 1908, Gov. Andrew L. Harris appointed 
the following commission : Geo. TI. Worthington, Cleve- 
land; W. H. Rienhart, Sandusky; Webster P. Huntington, 
Columbus ; Brand Whitlock, Toledo ; S. M. Johannsen, 
Put-in-Bav. 



34 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

The commission thus appointed was authorized to in- 
vite the cooperation therein of all the states bordering on 
the Great Lakes, also the states of Rhode Island and Ken- 
tucky. This invitation was accepted by the apopintment 
of conmiissioners by the state of Pennsylvania, Michigan, 
Illinois, Wisconsin, New York, Rhode Island, Kentucky and 
Minnesota. The United States Government w^as appealed 
to for support, and on March, 1911, Congress appropriated 
the sum of $250,000.00 to aid erection of the Perry Me- 
morial, this bill receiving the approval of President Taft. 
The guaranteed appropriation obtained from the nine 
states participating in the Centennial project amounts to 
$136,000.00. A Bureau of Public Subscriptions has been 
opened, under the direction of Financial Secretary 
Mackenzie R. Todd, a member of the Kentucky commission, 
with headquarters in the general offices at Cleveland, Ohio, 
and the commissioners hope for a widespread and generous 
recognition of the opportunity afforded all individuals and 
organizations to cooperate with them. The total cost of 
memorial, and accessories thereto, will be over $1,000,000. 

Plans for the Memorial were designed by J. H. Fried- 
lander, of New York City, having been selected by the 
Interstate Centennial Commission from fifty-four designs 
of almost equal merit. 

First accepted, but afterwards rejected, was the de- 
sign of John Eisenmann, of Cleveland. Some utilitarian 
features thereof were retained, however. When complete, 
the accepted design, with its grand plaza, will cover nearly 
all of the fourteen acre reservation dedicated as a park to 
the memorial. Rivsing in gradual ascent from the water's 
edge, the plaza will be 758 feet long, and 461 feet wide. 
The center of this plaza will be occupied by a great Doric 
column 335 feet from base to light on tripod at summit. 



A)i Historic Event and Its Local Setting 35 

There will also be a spectators' gallery, reached by electric 
elevators from base of column, which is forty-five feet in 
diameter, with a diameter of thirty-five feet at top. A 



Perry Memcriai 

crypt at base will contain the remains of British and 
American heroes who fell at Perry's Victory. These re- 
mains are to be disinterred from mound marked by the 
"cannon ball" monument near the bay shore. The beacon 
light at top will be of such magnitude and brilliancy as 
to be visible as far as Cleveland, and Detroit, approxi- 
matel}' sixty miles. A structure at one end of the plaza 



36 



Ah Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



is designed to symbolize the century of peace that has 
existed between the United States and Great Britain, since 
the signing of the treaty of Ghent, December 24, 1814. 

A building at opposite end of plaza — containing a 
floor space of 3000 square feet — will be used as an historical 
museum. 

The material used in the column will be granite and, 
with the exception of the Washington monument at 
National capitol, the memorial will be the highest 
monument in the world. To render it practical, and 
beneficial, as well as historic, and ornamental, the com- 
missioners have suggested that the property be also utilized 
as a life-saving station, a meteorological bureau, and a 




Site of Memorial, Previous to Breaking Ground 
wireless telegraph station, the site for these accessories be- 
ing one of the best on Lake Erie. 



An Historical Event and Its Local Setting 37 

Grounds selected for the memorial occupy a neck of 
land connecting East Point with the main body of Put- 
in-Bay Island, and command upon all sides exceptionally 
fine views of lake and island scenery. The growths of 
trees and wild vegetation, that covered these grounds, 
have been cleared and operations begun. Their embellish- 
ments will be in keeping with the beauty and dignity of the 
structure. 

The hull of the old ^^ Niagara" that has lain for nearly 
100 years at the bottom of "Mystery" Bay, Erie, is to 
be floated, and put in seaworthy condition. This old flag- 
ship that bore Perry to victory — after the "Lawrence"' had 
become a hopeless wreck — will then, under escort of a 
naval flotilla make the rounds of the various lake cities 
and Put-in-Bay. The ''Niagara" was 110 feet long, and 
rigged as a schooner. Her hull is said to be in good con- 
dition. As planned, the Centennial celebration of 1913 
will extend from July 4th to the 5th of October — ^the latter 
date being the anniversary of the Battle of the Thames. It 
is also proposed that United States vessels of war — by con- 
sent of British and Canadian governments — may be pemiit- 
ter to enter the Great Lakes and to participate in a grand 
naval review. It is also planned that the assemblage of 
commercial and regatta fleets, at that time, shall be the 
greatest ever seen on fresh water. 

Leading officers of the Interstate Board of Perry's 
Victory Centennial Commissioners are as follows : Presi- 
dent, General Geo. H. Worthington, Cleveland, Ohio; 
First Vice President, General Heniy Watterson, Louis- 
ville, Ky. ; Treasurer, General A. E. Sisson, Erie, Pa.; 
Secretary, General Webster P. Huntington, Cleveland; 
Auditor, General Harry Cutler, Providence, Rhode Island. 

State Vice Presidents are as follows : Ohio, Horace 



38 An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 

Holbrook; Pennsylvania, Edwin H. Vare; Michigan, Roy 
S. Barnhart; Illinois, Gen, Philip C. Hayes; Wisconsin, 
Rear Admiral F. W. Symonds, U. S. A. (Ret.) ; New 
York, Henry Harmon Noble ; Rhode Island, Sumner 
Mo wry; Kentucky, Col. Andrew Cowan; Minnesota, W. 
H. Wescott. 

Conmiissioners for National Government: Lieutenant 
Gen. Nelson A. Miles, U. S. A. (Ret.), Washington, D. C. ; 
Rear Admiral Charles A. Clark, U. S. N. (Ret.), Wash- 
ington, D. C. ; General J. Warren Keifer, Springiield, Ohio. 

Commissioners for Ohio: Geo. H. Worthington, 
Cleveland; John H. Clarke, Cleveland; S. M. Jahannsen, 
Put-in-Bay ; Eli Winkler, Cincinnati ; Horace Holbrook, 
AVarren; Wm. C. Mooney, Woodsfield; Horace L. Chap- 
man, Columbus. 

For Rhode Island — Conxniodore Perry's native state — • 
Commissioners are : John P. Sanborn, Newport ; Louis N. 
Arnold, Westerly; Sumner Mowry, Peacedale; Henry E. 
Davis, Woonsocket; Henry Cutler, Providence. 

The Executive Committee has a membership of nine — 
one representative from each state. 

From time to time, as years and decades have roUed 
by, suppositious relics of Perry's visit to Put-in-Bay and 
of the meeting between the two naval squadrons, is 
brought to light, several cannon balls plowed out of their 
long resting place in the earth are among the finds. One 
of the most interesting relics reported, however, was a 
sword found during the past year in the shoal waters of 
Put-in-Bay harbor, the finder being an island resident, E. 
H. Foster. Though deeply corroded vnth rust, the 
weapon — a two-edged affair — ^was in other respects quite 
well preserved. 



An Historic Event and Its Local Setting 



39 



When on a recent visit to Put-in-Bay, the sword was 
shoAvn Lieut, Gen. Miles, U. S. N., who pronounced it 
similar in design to those worn by naval officers one 
hundred years ago. 




Commodore Oliver H. Perry 



Perry's Mascot. 

"Sail ho!" Down from the "lookout,' 

On Gibraltar's shore ; 

The sentry's cry, from mouth, 

Is echoed o'er and o'er. 

' ' Sail ho ! " Momentous signal, 
Of the coming of the fray, 
In which our gallant naval force 
Must lose, or win the day. 

Hark to the ringing orders. 
Of the captains to their crews; 
And the grate of heaving anchors, 
And the tautly straining clews. 




Drawn by Mrs. May Bishop 

(40) 



Ferry's Mascot 41. 



Jjist to the snapping canvas, 

And the bugle 's thrilling call ; 

To man the guns, and clear the decks, 

Where some, perchance, may fall. 

As from the land-locked harbor, 
Our stately vessels clear; 
An eagle o'er their lofty "tops," 
Is seen to proudly veer. 

"Of \'ictory an omen!" 
Shouts Perry in amaze; 
And then his storied battle flag 
Aloft, they quickly raise. 

And vict'ry crowns our hero. 
With laurel wreath, and bay ; 
For all, the thrilling story tell. 
How Perry won the day. 



An Interesting Historical Picture 
And Its Painter. 



A decendant of French nobility, Louis Bennette 
Chevalier was born at Plattsburg, N. Y., in 1834. 

Well known both as a landscape and portrait painter, 
the work of this artist was characterized by its quiet 
eles:ance of tone and finish. One of his most notable 
achievements in the realm of art was the conception and 
execution of the historical painting, "Burial at Put-in-Bay 
of the Perry Victory Dead." 

In projecting this work, Chevalier was desirous that 
every detail thereof should be correct as to topogi-aphical 
situation, and true to historical fact ; and before attempt- 
ing its reproduction on canvas, the artist made several 
trips to Put-in-Bay for the purpose of sketching local de- 
tails and taking general notes. Having perfected a 
sketch of the burial scene, with the two anchored squadrons, 
and Gibraltar Island as a background, he submitted it to 
Dr. Usher Parsons, surgeon of Perry's flagship and of the 
fleet, also to Captain Stephen Charaplin, master of the 
"Scorpion," who, as participants in the battle, were both 
present at the burial. 

After due examination, the two veterans pro- 
nounced the drawing correct, giving it their full approval. 
That the painting might be accurate in every detail, also 
to settle a debated question as to the character of the 
captured vessel, "Queen Charlotte," the artists appealed 
to Captain Champlin and in reply received the following 
letter: 

(42) 




< 

riS 
03 



An Interesting Historical Picture and Its Painter 45 

"Buffalo, Aug. 27th, 1860. 
"To L. B. Chevalier, Esq., 
"Dear Sir: 
"Your letter of the 25th received. In answer would 
say that the Queen Charlotte was a full rigged ship. 

"I am glad to see you are sO' far advanced in your 
painting and hope I shall have the pleasure of meeting you 
on the 10th of September in Cleveland. 

"I am respectfully, and truly yours, 

' ' Stephen Champlin. ' ' 

The latter portion of the artist's life w^as spent in 
Cleveland, where he died November 15th, 1889. 

The original of this — Chevalier's masterpiece — now 
hangs in the art department of the Western Reserve his- 
torical building, Cleveland, where it was placed by permis- 
sion of the artist's wife, Mrs. L. B. Chevalier. 

For facts as above stated, the author is indebted to 
Mrs. Alice Chevalier Deike, daughter of the painter, and 
wife of Mr. John Deike of Sandusky. 

Following is an extract from an address by Dr. Usher 
Parsons, given before the Rhode Island Historical Society, 
February 16th, 1852, and again at Put-in-Bay, September 
10th, 1858 : 

"Those who were killed in the battle were that even- 
ing committed to the deep, and over them was read the 
impressive Episcopal service. On the following morning 
the two fleets sailed into the bay (Put-in-Bay) where the 
slain officers of both were buried in an appropriate and 
affecting manner. They consisted of three Americans: 
Lieut. Brooks, Midshipman Laub, and Midshipman Clark, 
and three British officers — Captain Finnis, Lieut. Stokes 



46 An Interesting Historical Picture and Its Painter 

of the 'Queen Charlotte,' and First Lieut. Garland of 
the ship 'Detroit.' 

"Equal respect was paid to the dead of both nations, 
and the crews of both fleets united in the ceremonies, the 
procession of boats with two bands of music ; the slow and 
regular motion of the oars striking in exact time with the 
notes of the solemn dirge ; the mournful waving of flags, 
and the sound of minute guns from the ships, exhibited a 
striking contrast to the scene presented two days before, 
when both the living and the dead, now forming in tliis 
solemn and fraternal train, were engaged in fierce and 
bloody strife, hurling at each other the thnnderl)olts o? 
war." 



A Youthful Patriot And His 
Tragic Fate, 



Looking backward through a century of radical 
changes and unparalleled progress, it is difficult to realize 
that all that portion of country known during the war of 
1812 as the "Military Frontier," and including all of 
Northwestern Ohio, the Lake Erie Islands, and Ohio 
Peninsula, was then a howling wilderness, overrun by 
hostile savages. 

The few isolated bands of pioneers, who had settled 
in these regions before the war, had enjoyed comparative 
peace, though even at that time they were never entirely 
free from danger; but when war was declared between 
England, and the United States, and the Indians became 
allied supporters of the former, then began an era of in- 
creased hostility on the Indians' part, in which figured 
tomahawk and scalping knife, with burning and pillage, 
cold blooded massacre, and tort,ures such as only savages 
have the barbarity to inflict. 

Life in these settlements during the war period was 
practically one continued round of apprehension, of sus- 
pense, and of mental agony. By day and night the 
settlers were in peril and their minds were never at rest. 

The pioneer slept with doors doubly barred, and a 
loaded rifle beside him. He carried his rifle wherever he 
went — to the barn when he fed the stock; to the field when 
he went to plow, or to harvest grain. His wife and boys 
were also provided with arms and trained in their use. 
They grew habitually to watch every shadowy copse and 

(47) 



48 A Youthful Patriot and His Tragic Fate 

thicket in the vicinity of their cabins, as possible skulking 
places for redskins. The swaying of a twdg by the wind, 
the crackle of brush heard in the stillness of the forest, 
struck terror oft to their hearts, for under long pressure 
the nem'es as well as imaginations of each became highly 
sensitized. Even their dreams at night were disturbed 
by visions of hideously feathered and painted savages. 

The settler's nearest and best neighbor dared not ap- 
proach the cabin without first proving his identity by some 
mutually and clearly understood signal. The clever imita- 
tion of a bird whistle, or thrum of a woodpecker against 
the bark of a tree — it may have been — repeated a certain 
number of times ; for the wilderness dwellers had their 
signal codes as a means of recognition and to be used in 
cases of emergency. 

So long as the several divisions of our army were able 
to maintain a fair stand against the British, however, the 
Indians, thereby intimidated, seem to have been held in 
partial restraint; but when Hull's division of the Ameri- 
can forces, stationed at Detroit, was ignominiously sur- 
rendered to the British liy its commander, consternation 
seized upon the remaining portions of our troops, stationed 
at various points, and spread throughout the entire 
country as fast as mounted couriers — dispatched in all 
directions — could carry the news. 

First to the pioneer settlements, including nearly one- 
half of Ohio; then southward to the older and more 
populous sections of the state, through to Kentucky and 
Virginia, sped swiftly the couriers ; eastward also into 
Pennsylvania and New York state they carried the news. 

The first intimation of possible disaster that reached 
the frontiersman, striking a chill to his heart, came with 
the sound of galloping hoofs which, resounding through the 



A Youthful Patriot and His Tragic Fate 49 

forest, fell ominoiLsly upon the listener's ear; and when at 
the cabin door a strange horseman drew up his panting, 
and foam flecked steed, the chill at the settler's heart 
struck deeper, for instinctively he knew that the messenger 
bore evil tidings. With the news of Hull's surrender the 
tersely spoken warning : ' ' Flee for your lives ! ' ' was all 
that the courier had time to articulate ere his plunging 
horse carried him again into the forest, enroute with the 
news and warning to other settlers. Time was too precious 
when the fate of the entire country and its people hung 
thus in the balance. It was also unnecessary, for every 
settler on the exposed frontier realized that a general up- 
rising of the Indians, and a murderous onslaught upon 
the white settlements, would inevitably follow. They lost 
no time, therefore, in secreting their hard-earned, stores 
and household effects, such as they could not carry with 
them to the forts and block houses, whither they were 
compelled to flee for protection. 

News of the surrender, when it finally reached the 
fully settled and civilized sections of the country, carried 
with it a call to arms, so urgent, so imperative, that the 
farmer left standing in the furrow his plow, the mechanic 
abandoned his workshop, and the business man his books, 
and ledgers — all to join the volunteer companies hastily 
organized to reinforce that which remained of our armies 
in the Northwest. By the old "Wyandot trail," and by 
other ancient trails passing through Central and Northern 
Ohio, these recruits in separate detachments took up the 
line of march for the shores of Lake Erie — infantry, 
cavalry and artillery, together with wagon trains of need- 
ed army supplies — under Gen. Shelby, Gen. Beaal, and 
other commanders. From Southern Ohio, Kentucky, and 
Virginia; from Fort Duquesne, and Pittsburg; from Erie 



'50 A Youthful Patriot and His Trayic Fate 

and from many other points through Pennsylvania and 
New York State, volunteer companies, fast as they could 
be organized, were rushed forward toward the seat of war. 
On their forced marches, these troops covered hundred- 
mile stretches of virgin M'ilderness, undergoing exposure 
and hardships untold; but they rendered historic the old, 
angling trails traversed by them one hundred years ago, 
which through some portions of Ohio are still used as 
public highways. 

While troops were organizing and pressing forward 
towards the military frontier, the ships of Perry's 
squadron were in process of construction at Erie, green 
timber freshly cut from the forest being used. In that, 
and surrounding localities wore patriotic men and youth 
who had not joined the army, owing to plans made to ship 
with Perry on board his fleet, and they eagerly awaited 
its completion. Among the number was a young man, 
James Bird, by name, a youth of noble character, and high 
standing. 

Bird had a sweetheart whom he adored and was loath 
to leave ; but the call of his countiy in her distress aroused 
within him all the martial fire of which his intense nature 
was capable, and he longed for the fray. The story of 
Bird and his tragic fate is best told, however, in the fol- 
lowing song that became widely popular immediately after 
the war of '12, and is still known, and sung. 

The music which accompanies the song is as weirdly 
mournful as the words given below. 



Bird's Farewell. 



"Sons of pleasure, listen to me, 
And ye daughters, too, give ear ; 

For a sad and mournful story, 

As e'er was told you soon shall hear. 

"Hull, you know his troops surrendered. 
And defenseless left the West; 

Then our forces quick assembled, 
The invaders to resist. 

" 'Mongst the troops that marched to Erie, 
Were the Kingston volunteers ; 

Captain Thomas them commanded, 
To protect our West frontiers. 

"There was one among the number, 
Tall, and graceful was his mien ; 

Firm his step, his look undaunted, 
Ne'er a nobler youth was seen. 

"One sweet kiss he snatched from Mary, 
Craved his mother's prayer once more, 

Pressed his father's hand and left them. 
For Lake Erie's distant shore. 

"Soon, he came where noble Perry, 

Had assembled all his fleet; 
There the gallant Bird enlisted, 

Hoping soon the foe to meet. 



(51) 



'52 A Youthful Patriot and His Tragic Fate 

"Now behold the battle rages, 

Is he in the strife, or no ? 
Now the cannon's roar tremendoiLS, 

Dare he meet the savage foe ? 

"Yes, behold him — see with Perry, 
On the self-same ship he fights ; 

Though his comrades fall around him, 
Nothing doth his soul affright. 

"Ah! behold — a ball has struck him. 

See the crimson current flow; 
'Leave the deck!' exclaimed brave Perry, 

'No', cried Bird, 'I will not go.' 

" 'Here on deck I've took my station, 

Here will Bird his colors fly : 
I'll stand by you, gallant captain, 

Till we conquer, or I die.' 

"Still he fought, though faint, and bleeding 
Till the stars and stripes arose; 

Victory having crowned our efforts 
All triumphant o'er our foes. 

" 'Dearest parents, read the letter, 
That will bring sad news to you ; 

Do not mourn your first beloved. 
Though this brings you his adieu.' 

" 'I must suffer for desertion. 

From the brig Niagara; 
Read this letter, brother, sister, 

'Tis the last you'll hear from me.' 



A Youthful Patriot and His Tragic Fate ^>3 

"Dark and gloomy was the morning, 

Bird was ordered ont to die; 
Where the heart not dead to pity, 

But for him would heave l sigh. 

"View him kneeling by his coffin, 

Sure his death can do no good ; 
'Spare him!' hark — God! they've shot him, 

See his bosom stream with blood ! 

"Farewell, Bird, farewell forever, 

Friends and home he'll see no more; 
For his mangled corpse lies buried, 

On Lake Erie's distant shore." 

To further explain this pathetic story it may here be 
stated, that after the Battle of Lake Erie in which the 
hero, James Bird, distinguished himself, the American fleet 
sailed for Erie. On arrival, Bird set out for his home 
at Kingston, eager to see the dear ones left behind. That 
a formal discharge was a necessary condition of release 
from his country's service, when service was no longer 
required, never entered his mind. After a happy meeting 
with sweetheart, and friends, the youthful marine hired 
out to a man of that locality, and began the work of clear- 
ing up timber, all unconscious of having committed any 
misdemeanor. Bird talked freely with his employer con- 
cerning his experiences under Perry's command, revealing 
the fact that- he had left the fleet mthout a formal dis- 
charge. The employer, it seemed, was enamored of Bird's 
sweetheart, "Mary"; but his advances had been met by 
her with disfavor, and in a jealous rage he reported the 
young marine as a deserter. By the stern rigors of mili- 



54 A Youthful Fatriot and His Tragic Fate 

tary discipline. Bird was later convicted, as such, and 
sentenced to be shot. Perry having learned the facts, 
hastened to the young man with a pardon, reaching the 
place of execution just a moment too late. 

One singular circumstance remains to be told concern- 
ing this tragic affair. The land which Bird had assisted 
in clearing for his treacherous and heartless employer, 
never produced aught of vegetable life, remaining a desert 
tract of barren soil. The tnith of this statement has been 
amply verified by those who have visited the spot, strangely 
branded as with a curse. 



A Coronal of Yerse and Song. 

Had our widely renowned American poets, Longfel- 
low and Whittier, lived as large a share of their lives 
among the islands of Lake Erie as they spent along the 
New England coast, every crook on these shores; every 
wave-worn rock and mirrored crag that girds them; every 
quiet cove and bay that indents them, would have been 
invested \\dth an added charm of romance, subtle and ir- 
resistible : for the natural beauty and historic interest at- 
taching thereto would have called forth the noblest efforts 
of these gifted writers. 

Environed by an atmosphere of poetic fancy and 
historic lore, these islands have furnished from time to 
time the basis, however, of many an entertaining sketch, 
story, poem and song, embodying the best thoughts of 
many gifted writers. That men and women of genius 
have made these islands a field for literary, and historical 
research, coupled with the fact that they are annually 
visited by thousands of tourists, establishes their claim lo 
especial notice. 

All that has been written concerning them by visiting 
journalists, and literary contributors, however, has been 
of a fragmentary and desultorv^ character, in the main 
and much of it has been lost. 

The era of poetry and song began ages ago among 
these storied isles, according to the traditions of the dusk>' 
race that inhabited them. These traditions date backward 
to the 17th century, when Erics, or Eries (wild cat) tribe 
of aborigines still existed. Though the histoiy of these 

(55) 



'56 A Coronal of Verse and Song 

people is obscure, yet, at the period indicated, the southern 
shores of the lake, together with the peninsula and islands, 
were undoubtedly the favorite hunting grounds, and 
formed the stage where were enacted the tragic scenes 
which closed the drama and ended the career of a fierce 
and war-loving people. The Eries were swept out of ex- 
istence by the powerful ''Five Nations," forming the 
Iroquois, but they left their name permanently established 
— the name that now designates the waters of Erie — lake of 
the "wild cat." 

Uncertain as are the records of this lost tribe, the 
antiquarian, groping amid ruins of the past, still finds 
broken fragments that fit into their history. Notable 
among these may be mentioned "Inscription Rock" at 
Kelley's Island, conceded to be the most extensive and in- 
teresting of its kind in America. 

At the opening of the last century, the islands were 
overrun by nomadic tribes designated as "sojourners" 
rather than as dwellers, representing the Senecas, Miamis, 
Ottawas, Shawnees, Potowatamies and Wyandots, the 
latter being most numerous. Representatives of other 
tribes sometimes visited the island group. Though evi- 
dently a favored locality, these islands were not so much the 
territory of any one tribe as a common stamping ground 
for all. They came and went in a manner similar to that of 
modern summer excursionists, the attractions of Put-in- 
Bay, Kelley's and other neighboring isles, having been 
Icnown, and appreciated, many thoiisand moons before the 
pale faces came to know them. When the waters were 
fettered by ice, and withering blasts swept lake and land, 
the Indians are supposed to have retired into the thick, 
deep wilderness of the mainland, but returning, with 
spring flowers and sunshine, to their island haunts. 



A Coronal of Verse and Song '57 

The romantic element — instinctive to these children 
of nature — must have run rampant amid surroundings so 
calculated to inspire sentiment. The dim forest, night 
shadows, shifting clouds and gathering storm; the war of 
winds and rush of waves — these, and a thousand other 
objects and conditions, were invested by the savage with a 
weird mysticism; and looking upon Nature, and listening 
to her myriad voices, weird fantasies and strange beliefs 
took shape ^^dthin his brain. His imagination peopled 
with supernatural beings the caverned rocks; and 
witchery dwelt in the falling of a leaf, or in the flash 
of a sea-bird's wing. 

In feudal days such as existed among the islands, 
where paths of wandering tribes so often crossed, oc- 
ccsions were many that gave rise to tales of love, and 
jealousy, of conquest and adventure. Thus touched by 
the subtle hue of poetry, and romance — charming as that 
which has come down to us from the feudal days of 
mediaeval Europe — was the life of the untamed island 
dweller. 

Given below is a short poem descriptive of the first 
battle of Lake Erie fought by feudal Indian tribes in 1600. 
The poem is from the pen of A. A. Bell. 



First Battle of Lake Erie. 



"Before the white man piled his blazing brands, 
Along the beach by Erie's treacherous wave ; 

Before the boundaries of rock and cave 
Bore echo of the life of other lands ; 

"AVhen Seneca and Wyandot turned the mold, 
And launched the swift canoe upon the breast 

Of waters heaving billows from the West — 
Still history was made, and time was old. 

"Long ere the use of firearms found its way. 

Among the higher altitudes of man ; 
Long ere the ceaseless cries of war began, 

That found their glories in a latter day ; 

"Two hostile nations met upon the blue, 

To fight, for that was nation's pride; 
The birch and log canoe side by side. 

And arrows pierced the vast surroundings through. 

"The Senecas fought well, as oft before; 

But fell each brave upon the flowing crest. 
Where calmest peace, enchantment, and true rest, 

Awaited him who loved Lake Erie's shore." 

Following the war of 1812, Perry's victory was made 
a theme of adulation by poets of every degree, eager each 
aad all to innnortalize the gallantry of Oliver H. Perry, 
and the scene that ^\•itnessed his brilliant achievement. 

(58) 



A Coronal of Verse and Song -'jO 

Books published shortly after the period above mentioned, 
containing poems describing the event, are still found 
among old collections. These quaint effusions fairly blaze 
with, patriotism, though not always true to topographical 
detail — a matter that excites no surprise, since most of this 
verse was written at long range — ^the imagination of the 
versifier supplying detail where facts were lacking. The 
song composer likewise attuned both his measures and his 
soul to fervid outpourings. A song widely popular nearly 
one hundred years ago is still known and sung by elderlj'' 
people. Though not an example of perfect composition, 
its long survival entitles it to notice in this connection, 
as given below: 

"Ye tars of Columbia, give ear to my story. 

Who fought with brave Perry where cannon did roar ; 

Your valor has won you an immortal glorj^ 
A fame that shall last until time is no more. 

"Columbian tars are the true sons of Mars, 

They rake fore and aft when they fight on the deep ; 

On the bed of Lake Erie, commanded by Perry, 
They caused many a Briton to take his last sleep. 

"On the tenth of September, let all well remember, 
As long as the world on its axis rolls round. 

Our tars and marines on Lake Erie were seen. 

To make the red flag of proud Britain haul do^^^l. 

"The van of our fleet, the British to meet. 

Commanded by Perr>', the Lawrence bore down, 

The guns they did roar with such terrible power. 
The savages trembled at the horrible sound. 



60 A Coronal of Verse and Song 

"The Lawrence was shattered, her rigging was tattered. 

Her booms and her yards were all shot away ; 
And few men on deck, to manage the wreck. 

Our hero on board, could no longer stay. 

"In this situation, the pride of our nation, 

Sure heaven had guarded unhurt all the while ; 

While many a hero maintaining his station. 

Fell close by his side and was thrown on the pile. 

"But mark ye and wonder, when the elements thunder. 
And death and destruction are stalking around ; 

His flag he did carry, on board the Niagara, 
Such valor on record was never yet found. 

"There was one noble act of our gallant commander. 
While "v^Titing my song, I must notice with pride ; 

When launched in a smack, v/hich carried his standard, 
A ball whistled through her, just at his side. 

"Says Perry — 'Those villains intend for to drown us. 
Push on my brave boys, you need never fear;' 

And then with his coat, he plugge^d up the boat, 
And through sulphur and fire away he did steer. 

"The famous Niagara now proud of her Perry, 
Displayed all her colors in gallant array ; 

And twenty-five guns on her deck she did carry. 
Which soon put an end to the bloody affray. 

"The bold British lion now roared his last thunder, 
Wliile Perry attended him close in the rear; 

Columbia's eagle soon made him crouch under. 
And call out for quarter, as you shall soon hear. 



A Coronal of Verse and Song 61 

*' Brave Elliott, whose valor must now be recorded, 
On board the Niagara had well played his part; 

His gallant assistance to Perry afforded, 

We place him the second on Lake Erie's chart. 

''In the midst of the battle the guns they did rattle, 
The Lawrence a wreck, and the men mostly slain ; 

Away he did steer, and brought up the rear. 
And by this maneuver the victory" gained. 

''Says Perry — 'Brave Elliott, now give me your hand. 
This day you have gained an immortal renown' 

So long as Columbians Lake Erie command. 

Let the brave Captain Elliott with laurels be crowned. 

Great Britain may boast of her conquering heroes. 
Her Rodneys and Nelsons and all the whole crew; 

But Rome in her glory ne'er told such a story, 
Nor boasted such feats as Columbians do." 

As "distance lends enchantment," so with passing 
years looms historical impartance of Perry's Victory. 
The following lines were written on board the steamer 
"Island Queen," in 1862, as she was leaving her dock at 
Put-in-Bay, with an excursion, and was shortly afterwards 
published in a Sandusky newspaper. They are made 
doubly interesting by the fact that when written the war 
cloud hung black over our beloved land. They were 
penned by Martha Rawson Congdon, of Oberlin, Ohio. 



Isle of Beauty. 



"Isle of beauty! sweetly sleeping, 
Neath the rays of summer sun ; 

I would love to ask you questions, 
Of the many years long gone. 

"Ere the steamer of the white man, 
Ploughed these waters still, and calm; 

Sought w'ithin this quiet harbor, 
Safety from the angry storm, 

' ' Should you tell me of the battle. 
Where brave Perry w^on the day; 

You would be a true historian. 

For 'twas fought beneath your eye. 

"Neath yon proud and lofty willow, 
Sleep the dead in battle slain ; 

O'er their heads the drum is beating. 
But it calls to them in vain. 

"To this safe and tranquil harbor. 
Turns the sailor's anxious eye ; 

Longing for its peaceful portal, 
When the howling storm is nigh. 

"Standing there, proud Gibraltar, 
Bares its rocky brow to me ; 

Firm as when the great Creator, 
Lifted it from out the sea. 
(62) 



A Coronal of Verse aneJ Song 63 

"I would love to watch the day god, 
Sink beneath these waters blue; 

Pouring floods of golden beauty, 
Over all that meets my view. 

"But the Island Queen is moving. 

Bearing me from you away ; 
I will carry with me ever, 

Holiest memories of today. 

"When again I look upon you, 

Only He that rules can tell ; 
So I leave thee in thy glory. 

Isle of Beauty! fare thee well." 

Henry T. Tuckerman of Newport, R. I., has graphical- 
ly described the fray as quoted below : 

"Why to one point turns every graceful prow? 

What scares the eagle from his lonely bough ? 

A bugle note far through the welkin rings, 

From ship to ship its airy challenge flings. 

Then round each hull the murky war clouds loom, 

Her lightnings glare, her sullen thunders boom; 

Peal follows peal with each lurid flash, 

The tall masts shiver and the bulwarks crash. 

The shrouds hang loose, the decks are wet with gore, 

And dying shrieks resound along the shore ; 

As fall the bleeding victims one by one, 

Their messmates rally to the smoking gun. 

As the maimed forms are sadly borne away, 

From the fierce carnage of that murderous fray, 

A fitful joy lights up each drooping eye, 



64 A Coronal of Verse and Song 

To see the stariy banner floating- high, 
Or mark their unharmed leader's dauntless air, 
His life enfolded in his loved one's prayer. (*) 
Not o'er my head shall that bright fli,^ descend: 
With brief monition from the hulk he springs, 
To a fresh deck his rapid transit wings, 
Back to the strife exultant shapes his way, 
Again to test the fortunes of the day : 
As bears the noble consort slowly do^^^l, 
Portentous now her teeming cannon frown ; 
List to the volleys that incessant break 
The ancient silence of that border lake ! 
As lifts the smoke, what tongue can fitly tell. 
The transports which those manly bosoms swell. 
When Britain's ensign, down the reeling mast, 
Sinks to proclaim the desperate struggle past." 

A long descriptive poem read at Cleveland Centennial 
anniversary on "Perry Victory Day," September 10, 1S9(_), 
opens as follows : 

''The sparkling waters of Put-in-Bay 

Are resting in placid peace today; 
But the silvery sheen of their ebbing flood. 

Was once stained red with our grandsires' blood. 

*'And the dells and dales of the wooded shore, 
Sent back the deep echo of cannon's roar; 

While the drifting spars and shattered hulls. 

Formed a resting place for the white-winged gulls. 



*Ncte. — Perry said after his miraculous escape, that he owed 
his life to his wife's prayers. 



A Coronal of Verse and Song 65 

*'Hard by the beach at Put-in-Bay, 

Our friends and our foes were laid away ; 

It is three, and four score years ago, 
Since Oliver Perry met the foe ; 

But the deeds heroic done that day. 
Cast a halo bright round Put-in-Bay." 

A pilgrim to the burial place of the illustrious dead 
breaks thus into rhyme : 

"Where the white caverned rocks are reflected 

On the swell of the long curving billow ; 
Near where Perry's dead heroes neglected, 

Lie nameless beneath the gaunt willow ; 
I dreamed of our dead and forgotten, 

Marked "unknown," on the tablets of fame, 
And a long line of heroes filed past me, 

"Who for us gave a life and a name." 

Further eulogized in a poem by an unknown author 
are Perry's dead ; and further deprecated the neglect so 
long accorded them. 

"Their monument, the willow tree. 

Their requiem, the waves 
Of old Lake Erie dashing free, 

Around their nameless graves. 

Their epitaph, the withered grass 

That marks their lowly beds. 
Their eulogy, the moaning winds 

That sigh above their heads. 



06 A Coronal of Verse and tiong 

"Neglected, and forgotten here, 

Without a line or stone, 
These brave defenders fill one grave, 

Their very names unknown. 

Four scores of springs have brought their bloom. 

To this immortal isle. 
Since friend and foe were buried here. 

In one promiscuous pile. 

''My country, not too late to raise 

A column to the brave. 
Who brought a glory to the flag, 
i A victory to the wave. 

Who drove the Briton from these shores, 

Who gave this isle a name, 
Who brought the country fresh renown. 

To Perry, deathless fame." 

So great an aftermath of Perry Victory song and 
verse has been gleaned, however, that further mention of 
individual effort along this line would be impracticable. 

Though affording themes most favored, the Put-in- 
Bay muse and musician leave frequently the beaten paths 
of historical record and popular tradition, to revel in 
dreams of fancy, of love, and romance. 

Poems of sentiment contribute a glamour of romantic 
interest; and compositions such as the ''Put-in-Bay 
March" and "Put-in-Bay Polka" are known to the 
musical world. Even the ''^lasher" and bis adventures are 
not forgotten, since in a very spirited song and dance issued 
by a sheet music publisher, both are embalmed in measures 
rythmical under the title, "The Girl of Put-in-Bay." 



A Coronal of Verse and Song 67 

A song entitled, ''Put-in-Bay," was introduced at the 
islands in 1911, simultaneous with the coming out of the 
new palatial steamer bearing that name. Both the song 
and the steamer were received with great enthusiasm by 
the islanders. The song rans as follows : 

"PUT-IN-BAY." 

"Ring the bell, all aboard! 

We're off for Put-iu-Bay, 
Oh, you band ! simply grand, 

We'll certainly dance all day. 

With a song, glide along, 

O'er the rippling waters blue, 
Having fun, every one, 

And I'm glad I'm here A\ath you. 

"There's the bell, at the bay, 

Oh, what a dandy place; 
Fishing fine, bathing time, 

And down the shutes we'll race. 

"You can say what you may, 

Put-in-Bay is surely bliss ; 
Such a time, joy for mine, 

Home is nothing, dear, like this. 

Chorus: 

"Let me give you a tip, if you want a fine trip, 
Where you can dance and spoon. 
And cuddle and croon as you go along the way — 
O'er the waters blue, with your sweetheart true, 
There's nothing to compare wdth a trip down there; 
(Down where?) to Put-in-Bay." 



Put-Iii-Bay. 



In consideration of its position as the most southernly 
island of the Bass group, geographers originally marked 
Put-in-Bay on their maps as South Bass. 

In still earlier days it was known as "Ross'' Island, 
though from whence it derived this appellation does not 
now appear. 

It is asserted on the authority of a certain historian, 
that "Put-in-Bay" is a corruption of "Pudding Bay," 
and that a restoration of the old name might be ad- 
vantageous to the many hotels and boarding cottages on 
the island. 

By other historians it is claimed that the island took 
its name from the circumstance that several days before 
the Battle of Lake Erie, Commodore Perry's ships put into 
its sheltered and ample bay, there finding security both 
from observation on the enemy's part, and protection from 
possible storms. 

After the decisive blow to Great Britian. that gave 
Perry undisputed supremacy over Lake Erie, the 
American squadron, accompanied by the captured fleet of 
the enemy, again put into this bay for the purpose of in- 
terment, on the green wooded island adjacent, remains of 
heroes of both squadrons who fell in the memorable 
struggle. The anchored fleets there resting upon placid 
Avaters with battle-stained colors drooping half masted 
from their riggings, the dead boats formed in solemn pro- 
cession moving to sound of muffled drums toward the 
deserted and silent shores — all combined to depict a scene 

(68) 



Put - i)i - Bay 



71 



of the most impressive grandeur. It was then and there 
that the name "Put-in-Bay" became invested with an 
historic interest, and a subtle, romantic charm that deepens 
and l)roadens with lengthening decades. 




Bridge Crossing Entrance of Put-in-Bay Resort Company's 

Harbor 



The bay. from which the island thus derives its name, 
is a sheet of water enclosed by two projections — East Point 
to eastward, and "Peach Point'' to westward — ^with the 
rock-buttressed isle of Gibraltar extending part way across 
the intervening waters, atfording still further pro- 
tection from besetting wind and wave. 

The bay at some points is encircled by stretches of 
gravel beach with fringing forest trees in the background. 
In other places it is girt by rugged and picturesque rock 



72 



Put - hi - Bay 



with overdrooping cedars, wild shrubbery and vines ia 
suoh prodigality of beauty as only the islands can produce. 
"Squaw Harbor," forming a portion of the inner bay, 
is a romantic sheet of water, reflecting upon its still sur- 
face the sky lights and shadows that play over it. 




An Island Home. 

From the earliest known history of lake navigation 
Put-in-Bay was known as a harbor of refuge; and while 
yet the savage beached his canoe upon its sands, and mut- 
tered the strange guttural of his tribe before the camp- 
fire reddening its shores, the white man's bark cut the still 
waters and his anchor grappled the deeply hidden rocks. 

The first vessel that ever spread canvas on Lake Erie, 
we are informed, was built at Fort Frontiac in August, 
1679. This vessel, named the "Griffin," and carrying the 
famous French explorer, Robert De La Salle, and his ex- 
pedition, passed up through Lake Erie. After cruising 
among the islands the Griffin set sail for Lake Huron. 



Put - in - Bay 



73 



One of the members of this expedition was the French 
missionary, Father Henepin, renowned for piety, as for 
self-sacrificing devotion to his mission work among the 
Indians. 

Friar Henepin was also a noted traveler and explorer. 
Attired in a long, monkish gown, and cap of peculiar 
pointed shape, with sandaled feet, a cross and rosary at his 
girdle, a prayer book in one hand, a staff and bundle in 
the other, and a portable altar strapped across his shoul- 
ders, Friar Henepin cut a novel and interesting figure, but 
was cordially received by the Indians, whose confidence 




On the East Point Road, Put-in Bay 



he readily gained. It is historically recorded that Friar 
Henepin landed at one of the Ba.ss islands, there holding 
religious services among the red savages found. How 



74 Put - in - Bay 

long- La Salle and Father Henepin remained among the 
islands does not now appear, but they, undoubtedly, were 
the first white men to look upon these beauty spots. 

An interesting circumstance in this connection was 
the recent tinding — imbedded near Lake Erie's southern 
shores- — that which remained of an old vessel, which from 
its ancient and peculiar style of construction, forced the 
finders, and others who examined it, to conclude that it 
was the wreck of the ' ' Griffin ' ' — the vessel having been lost 
on Lake Erie the same j^ear on her return trip. 

hi 1776, it is further recorded that a fleet of four 
trading vessels plowed the waters of Lake Erie, doing bus- 
iness, presumably with French and Indian trading posts 
stationed along the shores of Lake Erie and Lake Huron 
and bearing cargoes of furs, hides, honey, beeswax, etc., 
commodities then shipped to Europe. No charts of the 
lakes and no lighthouses then existed to guide the 
mariner; but the safe harbor at Put-in-Bay, was un- 
doubtedly used as a retreat foi- these vessels from threaten- 
ing storms. The marine history of the bay, and of the 
island, date backward therefore to a very ancient period. 

Concerning the first settlement of Put-in-Bay by 
white inhabitants, some obscurity exists; but according to 
the most reliable infonnation obtainable, the first attempt 
at pioneering on the island was made shortly before the 
war of 1812. About that period, Put-in-Bay, together 
with North and INIiddle Bass Islands, became the property 
of Judge Ogden Edwards of Connecticut, these islands be- 
ing included in the Western Resei-ve Firelands grant to 
people of that state. 

About the year 1810 two French ''squatters" are said 
to luive taken possession of Put-in-Bay. These ad- 
venturers engaged mainly in bunting, fishing and trapping. 



Fut - in - Bay 



7L 



Their tranquillity — like that of the solitary exile of Juan 
Fernandez — ^Avas frequently disturbed by the discovery of 
footprints on the sand, there left by the moccasined feet 



^ 




Put-in-Bay Town Hall 



76 Put - in - Bay 

of hostile red men. It is therefore a natural presmnption 
that these squatters felt relieved when reinforced by sev- 
eral families of French Canadians. Soon after these ac- 
cessions, an individual, Seth Done, agent for the Edwards 
property, also located on Put-in-Bay with a view to clear- 
ing and improving it. Done employed a number of labor- 
ers who had accompanied him thither, and the little colony, 
thus formed, turned their attention to civilized pursuits. 

Soon after the formation of this colony, war was de- 
clared between England and the United States, and the 
general uprising of the Indian allies of the British brought 
fear and trembling to settlers everywhere along the mili- 
tary frontier. 

In the autumn of 1811, according to local reminiscence, 
a tract of land comprising 100 acres having been cleared, 
was sown to wheat by colonists under the direction of ^Ir. 
Done; and in the summer of 1812, an exceptionally fine 
crop of this grain was produced, the soil proving re- 
markably fertile. The wheat had been duly hai-vested 
and the settlers were busy threshing, when they were sur- 
prised by Indians. The grain was destroyed, and the 
colonists driven from the island. In view of the troublous 
times, 2000 bushels of wheat, previously threshed, had been 
carried by boat loads across to the Ohio peninsula where 
it was stored in a log-built structure hidden away amongst 
tangles of underbrush. This rude storehouse was dis- 
covered, however, and its contents burned by British scouts 
and their Indian allies. Thus ended in complete disaster 
the first settlement of Put-in-Bay. 

Concerning events attending and culminating in the 
breaking up of this pioneer colony, little seems to have 
been known to subsequent settlers; nevertheless, a detailed 
account thereof has been preserved. Though coming to 



Piit - in - Bay 



77 



hand in a roundabout way, it undoubtedly bears the stamp 
of authenticity. 

The account, published as a general newspaper article 
in 1900, by Mrs. Attie Davis of Columbus, Ohio, forms 
part of a story relating to the Austin family who lived at 
Vermilion during the war of 1812, the period when toma- 
hawk and scalping knife hung constantly over the heads 




Colonial Music and Dancing Hall 



of lake shore and island dwellers, and life for them was 
one continued round of apprehension. 

On the occasion that prefaces the story under con- 
sideration, Mr. Austin found it necessary to journey with 
a grist of corn over his shoulder to a mortar — used in 
grinding grain — ^several miles distant to the Ruggles cabin, 
standing on site now kno'\\Ti as "Ruggles Grove." 

Austin w^as loath to leave his wife, and child, know- 
ing not what might befall them ere his return. There was 
also danger, at every step, of his being shot down by red- 
skins. 

The wife, left alone, was nervous from apprehension 



78 Put - in - Bay 

concerning her husband's safety, as well as that of her- 
self and child. Too anxions to sew, or to knit, was Mrs. 
Austin ; and after securing the door with bolts and bars, 
she lay the child down in its cril), and sentinel-like began 
pacing back and forth through the cabin, peering sharply 
into every copse and covert for possible Indians bent upon 
mischief. The day seemed an age, but finally wore to a 
close. 

Having completed the task of grinding his corn at the 
mortar, Mr. Austin was bound homeward with his bag of 
meal. He had completed about one-third of the distance, 
when casting his eyes over the lake, he saw to westward 
three black specks apparently moving towards the mouth 
of Vermilion river. "Indians, ])y all the saints!" With 
this mutttered ejaculation he cast the bag of meal into a 
hollow tree, and, tightening his girdle, made a frenzied 
dash for home, resolving to save his family or die with 
them. 

From the window, ^Irs. Austin saw also the boats when 
they first appeared outlined against the horizon. "With 
growing anxiety she watched them as they came nearer, 
and nearer. She could discern human forms, but of 
whites, Indians or half-breeds she could not tell. Mrs. 
Austin clasped her hands, and bowed in a silent prayer for 
strength to meet her fate, whatever it might be. When 
she arose, new courage and strength were hers. A danger- 
ous light flashed from her blue eyes. Taking from a 
corner two loaded rifles, she placed them by a window over- 
looking the lake ; then draAving a small table close to the 
window she placed thereon the powder horn, balls and cap 
box. 

There were Indian huts on the opposite side of the 
river. These, now deserted, had been occupied only two 



Put - i)i - Bay 79 

weeks before. Perhaps their late owners were returning lO 
satisfy their thirst for blood, and to lay waste her home. 

The remainder of this thrilling story can best be told, 
however, in the writer's own words, copied as follows: 

"As these thoughts flashed quickly through her mind 
she clasped her hands in agony and prayed most earnestly 
and aloud, "Oh, God, help, help, help!'' This was her 
simple prayer, but it strengthened her for the meeting 
with either friend or foe, she knew not which. 

Now, a broad pathway of light lay on the water, 
streaming from the setting sun, and in its very center the 
boat came swiftly gliding in, nearer and nearer as on a 
river of molten gold. Although it was quite near enough 
to have distinguished white men from Indians, it was im- 
possible to do so in the sunset's blinding glare. But be- 
fore it melted into the t^\nlight that blends the dying day 
with the starry night, the boats were hidden by a clump 
of large trees and the stars spangled the sky quite an hour 
before the occupants of the boats made any sign that they 
had landed. 

The day had been long and wearisome, but that one 
hour seemed an eternity to the young mother now softly 
soothing her babe to rest, while she stood with her gaze 
riveted on the pathway leading up from the river. At 
last dim shadowy forms like phantoms of the night slowly 
moved along the river bank. The sight started the hot 
lava tide tingling swiftly through her veins. She hurried- 
ly lay the baby down, and grasped a gun and pointed it at 
the forms, determined to defend her home to the bitter end. 

Slowly, cautiously, the figures advanced, stopping at 
times as if in consultation, then all but one halted in the 
deep shadows of the trees, and he boldly advanced. Now, 
^Irs. Austin thought, is time to check his nearer approach, 



80 Put - in - Bay 

and she was about to fire when a child's lusty cry, mingled 
with the deep tones of a manly voice, as he hailed, "Ho, 
tavern ahoy!" nearly caused her to let the gnn drop. 

The child's lusty cries awoke the forest echoes, and it 
seemed as if the woods had suddenly filled with angels. 
The cries continued, but they sounded like a tnunpet of 
peace to the fear-tortured woman, who had nearly fired 
into the party. 

The relief occasioned to her by that cry was like that 
of a ]-eprieve or pardon to one about to be executed ; or, 
like that of sunlight breaking through angry clouds after 
a tempestuous storm. Womanlike, she nearly threw the 
gun into a corner when the manly voice said, "Can you 
shelter a band of refugees ? ' ' 

Her great joy at finding the party friends nearly 
threw her into hysterics, and she quickly replied, "Yes, 
yes, come in." She flew to the door, but her hands 
trembled so she could hardly unbar it ; but one after an- 
other the heavy bars were laid aside, she threw wide the 
door, and thirty-two fleeing settlers swarmed into the room 
— seven families from the islands, men, women and chil- 
dren, two of whom were Austins. 

Now, Mrs. Austin, transformed, at it were, from a 
sad, weary sentinel to a genial hostess, soon made her 
guests feel perfectly at home, and the w^omen felt that for 
a short time, at least, they had found a haven of rest. 
She lit the conventional saucer, and the sickly yellow glare 
that flickered through the darkness showed her the sad- 
dest, most weary, and forlorn group of people that she had 
ever seen. The men looked hollowed-eyed and haggard; and 
the women's wan and tear-stained faces, looking so pitiful 
in the dim flaring light, drew the sympathetic tears from 
Mrs. Austin's eyes. And while she tried to cheer them 



Put -in -Bail '9-^ 

with brave, eneouraginfr words, she busied herself in pre- 
paring a supper of cornmeal mush and wild honey. Soon 
she set the mush smoking before them, and a great platter 
of wild honey, and to these hungry souls it seemed a most 
delicious feast. 

After satisfying their hunger the women placed the 
children in the two beds, and then climbed to the loft to 
pass the night in sleep upon the bare floor, with only a 
shawl under their heads for a pillow^ But this was a 
princely bed compared to the cramped position they had 
been obliged to keep in the boats the night before. 

The men sat in close counsel, while their hostess 
quietly cleared away the dishes and remains of the meal, 
arranging the table for her husband whom she knew must 
be nearly home. The wind had risen, and was blowing 
in shrieking gusts from off the land, and fearing that 
their boats might break her moorings, and float away, John 
and Judd Austin arose and shouldered their guns prepara- 
tory to making the boat a visit, and the more securely fas- 
tening it to the trees that everhung it, completely hiding it 
from any chance boatman that might pass that w^ay, when 
a long mournful whoo-o-o of an owl startled them as it filled 
the night air. Each man grasped his gun, and stood listen- 
ing for a repetition of the cry ; it did not come ; but a 
sound more welcome did — a low guarding rap, rap, rap, on 
the door. Mrs. Austin sprang to the fastenings, and 
quickly opened the door, admitting her blood-smeared, 
ragged, hungry husband. She sprang back, exclaiming: 
"Oh, Barlow, what is it? Did you meet with Indians?'' 
"No, no, Charlotte, the briars scratched my face and 
tore my clothes as I dashed through them in the vain at- 
tempt to reach here before the boats did, which I saw afar 
out on the lake ; but thanks be to God, I find friends here 



82 Put - in - Ban 

instead of the Indians or half-breeds, who are worse than 
Indians." 

The men crowded near him, and the warm, rugged 
hand-shake passed round wdth hearty congratulations for 
his safe return. Then four of the men started for a 
Adsit to their boats. 

~Sh'. Austin washed the blood from his much scratched 
face and hands, ate his supper, then lighting his pipe sat 
dovni to chat with his visitors. 

Meanwhile his wife climbed to the loft, and, lying 
down on the floor with the other women, was soon fast 
asleep. Peaceful slumlier lay over all, from which they 
awoke wdth an entrancing sense of peace and joy as the 
low, melodious sounds from the jew^sharp filled the cabin ; 
it floated to their half roiLsed senses like notes from 
heaven. 

The fatigue of the whole party was so great that not 
a woman or man stirred until the sun was high in the east. 
Then the loud wail of an infant aroused them, and while 
the women were preparing breakfast, several of the men, 
acting as scouts, scoured the forest for a short distance 
around, bi^t finding all quiet they came back, and after 
doing justice to the breakfast of fried nuish and smoked 
sturgeon, prepared to clean their guns. 

The cabin door w^as allowed to stand open all day, and 
the children played merrily in and out of the house. Five 
days passed peacefully along, and the utter quiet and 
silence from any news whatever of the war became oppres- 
sive. Now, on the eve of the fifth day, the men from the 
island concluded to make a journey back to their homes. 
So at the first peep of dawn the next morn, they pulled off 
from shore on their return trip. In due time they nearea 
the island. They knew the nature of the ■^^ily savages, 



Put -in -Bay 83 

and felt that every precaution must be used to avoid an 
ambush. Therefore they approached the island on the 
swampy side opposite their homes. Here the tall wild rice 
grew luxuriantly down to the water's edge. They pulled 
into a little cove where the cat-tails and thick grasses 
made a snug hiding place for the boat, while they 
reconnoitered. Stealthily they made their way to a large 
maple on the brow of a knoll where they could have 
a clear view of all the cabins. 

All was quiet and seemingly just as they had left it, 
and they were about to push boldly forward, when a 
peculiar hammering in the cabin nearest them arrested 
the action. A measured thump, thump, like the sound of 
a small mallet striking a table, made the men wonder 
what the Indians were doing; for certain it was they were 
in that cabin waiting with unwearied eye the return of tha 
owner, then they would murder, plunder and burn to their 
demon hearts' satisfaction. 

The watching party shrank back behind bushes in the 
shade of the tree and waited a long time for further de- 
velopments. At last there came a mighty, powerful chief 
as large in stature as any they had ever seen, opened the 
cabin door, and after glancing cautiously around, walked 
out toAvard the beach, and with folded arms stood sweep- 
ing the lake's surface with his falcon eyes. 

Soon another large Indian followed, then another, and 
another, until thirteen blood-thirsty chiefs stood looking 
out over the water with searching gaze. 

It was well that the pioneers' boat was not afloat at 
that time, or they would not have landed so safely, and, 
knowing that their number could not cope with the thir- 
teen red men, they cautiously made their way back to the 
boat into which they unceremoniously scrambled and rowed 



84 Put - in - Bay 

swiftly away for reenforcements. Tliey kept the wooded 
side of the island between them and their enemies until 
nightfall covered their retreat with her friendly veil ; then 
turning their course rowed quickly back to their friendly 
shelter of the Austin home, which they reached just as 
dinner was ready. After making report of their 
journey to the anxious, waiting group, and doing ample 
justice to the wild honey, johnny-cake, bean soup and 
stew^ed squirrel — the three latter being smoking hot — they 
prepared to mold bullets enough to return to the island 
and put an end to every redskin there. 

All the afternoon they worked, while the women 
huddled in little groups talking in subdued, awed tones. 
The island settlers had many bullets molded by sundown, 
but they were not enough ; and all through the night they 
worked molding the deadly ball. They even laughed and 
joked at the surprise they would give their enemies. 

At the first peep of daylight they carefully stored 
their ammunition and provision in the boat, and pulled 
again for their desert.ed homes, leaving their families in 
sobs and tears. The lake was calm almost to the smooth- 
ness of glass, and the boat skimmed over the surface like 
a gull They were quite near the island by sundown, but 
thinking it best to land under cover of the darkness, they 
lay to on their oars and waited until midnight ; then, with 
muffled oars pulled slowly into the hidden cove where the 
boat was safely moored, and they once more cautiously as- 
cended the knoll overlooking their little settlement. A dead 
gilence rested there, and deadly enemies also, who, with 
the slightest warning of the white man's approach would 
be like a sleuth hound, and only a body burning at the 
stake could glut their thirst for blood. And as forewarned 



Fui - in - Bay 85 

is forearmed, the pioneers felt that they held the vantage 
ground this time. 

But every man needed rest, and all the strength he 
could summon for the hot work that was before them for 
the morrow. So after a whispered consultation they de- 
tailed George Austin, as sentinel, and then sought the 
ground in the deepest shade, where they slept. And of all 
lonely vigils, Mr. Austin said that was the loneliest he 
ever kept. He watched the weird, grotesque shodows of 
the woods playing over the ground in the pale light of the 
crescent moon, with a fascination new and strange to him, 
A night bird wheeling in rapid flight brushed his head, so 
startling him from his fantastic musings he nearly yelled. 
Not a thing else the shadows and wheeling bird moved until 
the darkness preceding dawn ; then he heard the soft dip 
of oars, a grating sound as if a boat were being cautiously 
pulled upon the shore. Now everj^ ner\'e tingled with ex- 
citement, and he drew back in deeper shadows, and 
strained his hearing for another sound; but none came; not 
even with the five stalwart forms that were soon dimly 
outlined in the darkness skulking along the foot of the 
knoll toward the nearest cabin, which they entered. 

Now young Austin aroused his comrades, and grouped 
with heads close together in whispered words, he told them 
what he had seen. Some little time was taken up in laying 
plans for the day, and in giving instructions how best 
to carry them through. Then with the order to secrete 
themselves so as to overlook the cabins, and when the 
Indians came out, as they knew they would at the first 
light of day, to give them a volley of hot lead. The signal 
for them to fire would be given by John Austin, and was to 
be the rap-a-tap of the Avoodpeckers upon a tree, in imita- 
tion of their sounding tap. 



86 Put -in -Bay 

They had many other wood signals which were used 
during the hide-and-seek fight which was not long delayed. 
The sun was just showing his disc above the eastern trees, 
when the savages began to show themselves. Cautiously at 
first they peered from the door, then seeming to feel that 
all was safe for their exit, came boldly forth. One, two, 
three, until seventeen were counted. Some moved toward 
the water's edge; others squatted on the ground and some 
of them stood with folded arms, quietly looking at the now 
swelling waves. There were still others in the cabin, for 
that peculiar pound, pound, reverberated loudly through 
the woods, and rolled across the waters like the sound of 
doom. Now mingled with its jarring sound came the wood- 
peckers' sharp rap-a-tap-tp, rap-a-tap-tap, which was 
really the sound of doom for several of the Indians, as with 
the signals' last stroke came a stream of fire from the am- 
bushed settlers and seven brawny chiefs bit the dust 
simultaneously with sharp crack of the rifie. 

Consternation seized the Indians, and in Avild alarm 
they fled for safety. Several were wounded by the sharp- 
shooters before they could get under cover of the bushes. 
Hastily, yet cautiously, and with a hunter's precision, the 
pioneers cha.nged their positions, and now waited the action 
of the savages. It came in small spiral coils of smoke is- 
suing from the roofs and crevices of the log cabins. 

"Ye gods!" ejaculated Sam West, surprised, angered 
and excited into loud tones, "how did the demons do that 
and escape from the burning dwelling without our seeing 
them? Come on, boys, let's climb this tree where we will 
have a good view of the ground on the other side of the 
cabins and, if the red devils have not made cover, we may 
pick some of them off yet." 

So said, so done. Three of the settlers ascended to 



Put - in - Bay 87 

quite a height in the tall thinly foliaged tree, and the re- 
port of their rifles told their waiting comrades that they 
had sighted the enemy. 

Wh(Mi the smoke cleared away they saw ten Indians 
arise and run in a skulking attitude for the nearest shelter, 
which was a pile of rocks not far distant. Three of their 
number lay still nor wriggled more; the pioneers' deadly 
bullet had reached their hearts. No sooner did the squad 
of men under the tree see fleeing Indians than a shower 
of bullets with a resounding report lay seven more dead. 
Only three reached the pile of friendly rocks. 

Now Sam West and his friends descended from the 
tree and quickly reloading their guns commenced a stealthy 
march to a position in the rear of the hiding savages. 
Sly and quiet as foxes they moved through the under- 
growth and were soon where they could have seen the 
Indians. But to their great surprise not a redskin was 
there ; they had vanished completely. 

"Queer." muttered Sam West, "the devil himself must 
have spirited them away." So returning to their friends, 
the whole party made their way cautiously back to a point 
where they could see the Indian canoe, and waited the com- 
ing of the hideous, war painted demons, which was not until 
long after nightfall. Then like shadows they moved along 
the shore, stopping frequently to listen to sounds of warn- 
ing. Hearing none, they came silently on. They reached 
the canoe, but not to enter, for the ambushed men mth 
deadly aim sent every one of them to the Indians' happy 
hunting ground. 

Now feeling that not another red warrior remained 
on the island, they cautiously went over the battle ground, 
and counted seventeen dead Indians, hideous objects in 
their war paint and feathered adornments. As the party 



88 Put -in -Bay 

passed the smoking ruins of their homes, one poor fellow 
sat down and really cried and sobbed like a child amid the 
ruins of a broken toy. 

The night was far advanced when they sought their 
boat, launched it, and silently taking their places at the 
oars pushed out over the lake, each one too sad and dis- 
heartened for conversation. Weary in both body and soul 
and so absorbed in grief for their ruined homes that their 
vigilance somewhat slacked, and as they were passing that 
part of one of the islands now known as Gibraltar, a dark 
object shot out from the deep shadows, not forty yards dis- 
tant, then, "Great gods, boys, look to your guns or we are 
lost, the red devils are close upon us, fire ! ' ' 

Simultaneously the guns from both boat and canoe 
belched their deadly loads. But except for a tomahawk 
thrown with unerring skill by one of the red warriors, 
cleaving the skull of one of the young men, not a man was 
hurt. "Quick, give them another," and almost as quickly 
as the other was given another charge of hot lead flew from 
their guns, dealing death and destruction to the Indians. 
"Ha, we have crippled the rascals sure; they are drawing 
back into the shadows. Now row for your lives, boys; row 
as you never rowed before if you wish to see your loved 
ones." 

In answer to the long, strong pull of the oarsmen the 
boat fairly flew over the waves and soon passed the last of 
the islands, shooting out into clear water. Now feeling that 
all danger was over they slacked speed and tenderly cover- 
ing their dear comrade, slowly and without further ad- 
venture continued their sad journey over the now rising 
waves. 

On their trip back to the mainland these fleeing island- 
ers encountered a violent storm, thunder and lightning ae- 



Put - in - Bay 



39 



eompanied by wind. This they safely weathered, reaching 
the Austin cabin the following day. 

Other thrilling adventures in connection with the 
British and Indian war fell to the lot of these island pio- 
neers, but their troubles ended with the war, after which 
they all settled in the locality where dwelt the Austin 
family. 




Waterworks Pumping Station 



For several years following these events, Put-in-Bay 
was practically abandoned, and soon relapsed into primi- 
tive wildness. Save an occasional hermit — by whom its 
solitudes were courted — resident inhabitants there were 
none, though a rendezvous for occasional trappers and 
hunters, while adventurers sometimes landed there, also 



90 Put - in - Bay 

mariners from passing vessels that sought shelter in the 
harbor. 

The Bass group as a whole was not then regarded by 
agriculturists as a really paying proposition, due to isola- 
tion, and total lack of connection with trade and market 
centers. Two individuals are recorded as having made brief 
sojourns on the island: "Shell" Johnson, and one Captain 
Hill, but little thought of making the place a permanent 
abode seemed to suggest itself up to the year 1822. About 
that time, A. P. Edwards, brother of Judge Edwards, 
then deceased, came to look after the property, having 
succeeded to its ownership. On landing, Mr. Edwards 
found there a single "squatter,"' one Ben Napier, a French 
Canadian, living in a small cabin built of red cedar logs 
on a spot near which the steamer wharves are now located. 
Ben had taken full possession of the island, evidently 
considering himself "monarch of all he surveyed." He 
vigorously disputed Edward's right, and the latter was 
forced to visit Norwalk, then the county seat, to procure 
papers wherewith to establish his claim. Ben Avas finally 
ousted, and retired in disgust to look for another squat- 
ter's claim. 

The work of opening up and improving the island 
now began. A force of day laborers were transported 
thither, and the first movement was the erection of a 
building, serving as shop and warehouse, together with a 
commodious frame structure intended both as a residence 
for the agent who superintended operations and as a board- 
ing house for the laborers. These buildings were erected in 
1823, on the site occupied in after years by a famous hotel 
known as the "Put-in-Bay House." The combination dwel- 



Put - in - Bay 



91 



linu' and boarding' house formed for many years the cen- 
tral and crowning glory of the island. Its grounds were 
pleasantly laid out, and, basking nnder a virgin coat of 
whitewash, it came to be known as "The White House." It 
was successively occupied by agents representing the Ed- 
wards estate, chief among whom were Pierpont, ]\IcGib- 




St. Mary's Catholic Church 



bons, Scott, and Van Rassalier. Cord wood and limestone 
were thence shipped to Cleveland, and Erie. Portions of the 
island were covered v\nth fine forests of red cedar and 



9^ Put - in - Bay 

vessel cargoes of this valuable wood were shipped to East- 
ern markets. 

No direct line of vessels connected with the islands,, 
but by special understanding with captains of schooners 
bound up and down the lake, these vessels were signalled 
in by shots fired from a cannon planted on shore when 
shipments awaited transportation. These vessels alsO' 
brought supplies to the little maritime populace. 

The only local facilities for reaching^ the mainland at 
that time were afforded by a small sloop, the "A. P. Ed- 
wards," and a larger boat termed a "Zig, " rowed by ten 
men, five to each side. The island pioneers grew amphib- 
ious in their habits, and their exploits on water and ice- 
were marvelous. 

Wishing to dispose of his island possessions as a whole,. 
Edwards declined selling a foot of land by parcel, refusing 
even a location for a government lighthouse, which in 
consequence was erected on Green Island. As a result of 
Edwards' policy, the Bass Islands developed slowly and 
at the end of two decades were still comparatively unset- 
tled. 

In 1843 Phillip Vroman, the oldest snrviving resident 
at tlie present time, came to Put-in-Bay from Cooperstown,, 
N. Y. The "AA^hite House,'' above described, and a half a 
dozen log cabins were then the only habitations, while 
Middle and North Bass contained each a single cabin. Thfr 
lake waters at that time swarmed with fish. Game, such 
as Avater fowl, fox, and raccoon, was abundant. Ccon 
hunting was not only a favorite pastime among the men, 
and boys, but it was correspondingly profitable. Large 
numl)ers were taken, and the sale of their hides brought 



Put - in - Bay 93 

■considerable money. One of the Fox brothers of North 
Bass bought up all the coon skins taken at Put-in-Bay. 
These he sold for a good price to the fur companies. The 
squirrel in its natural state was never known on the Bass 
Islands, and few deer were then seen, excepting occasional 
herds that crossed on the ice from Pt. An Pelee Island, and 
the mainland. Rattlesnakes were a plentiful commodity, 
and gave the inhabitants some annoyance. The woods 
were infested by hogs, which, originally brought to the 
islands as domestic animals many years before, had run 
wild, and multiplied until very numerous. These brutes 
led a "root-hog-or-die" existence, depending upon their 
own grubbing, summer and winter. They developed into 
a race of "razor backs," such as would have put out of 
commission the famous "razor back" of Florida. These 
})Oor creatures were very savage from hunger and the 
islanders were sometimes treed by them. When fresh 
meat was required, a squad of mounted men with dogs 
and guns sallied forth into the woods for the purpose of 
hunting them down, and some very exciting adventures 
were reported. 

In spring, the islands formed a veritable Eden of 
bloom, wild tiowers of endless variety appearing in over- 
whelming abundance, intermingled with native shrubbery, 
mosses, and vines, which belted and overhung in a most 
charming and picturesque manner the line of broken shore 
rocks. The forests were literally alive with songsters, and 
the eagle found here a congenial retreat. 

In 1854, the island colony was reinforced by Dr. 
Luther Nelson and family, who removed thither from the 
mainland. Dr. Nelson was the first physician to locate on 



94 



Put - in - Bay 



the Bass Islands. Considerable wheat was grown and large 
droves of sheep fed and grew fat on the sweet, Avild grasses. 
Dr. Nelson owned 500 head of these nintton and wool 
prodneers. In this year — 1854 — the islands comprising the 
Edwards property were sold entire to Riveria De San 
Jargo, a Spanish merchant of wealth and distinction, then 
residing in New York City. Up to this time bnt a single 
frame honse had been erected on Pnt-in-Bay; bnt with a 
change of proprietors its prospects brightened. Building 
contracts were issned by Mr. Riveria, and ]\Iiddle Bass was 
disposed of to three purchasers — Wm. Rehberg, a wealthy 
German count, Andrew Wehrle, and a capitalist named 




Tomb of Riveria De San Jargo 



Caldwell. A steamer, the "Islander," began making trips 
from Sandusky to Put-in-Bay, and the islands as a body 



Put - in - Bay 95 

enjoyed that which in modern times would have been re- 
garded as a "boom." 

Many visitors began crowding towards Put-in-Bay, 
drawn thither by the natural and historical attractions of 
the place. Among the number was J. W. Gray — then edi- 
tor of the Cleveland Plain Dealer. Gray purchased the 
"White House." Changes and additions were made, and 
a comfortable hotel soon opened its doors to the public. 
A small hotel, ' ' The Perry liouse, ' ' was also opened up by 
Mr. Henry Beebe. 

The fame of Put-in-Bay continued to spread, until by 
natural processes it developed into a widely-known and 
popular summer resort and to meet the ever-increasing 
demand for accommodations a grand summer hotel was pro- 
.jected, built, and christened — the "Put-in-Bay House." 
The structure was 450 feet long. Its verandas, extending 
the wdiole length of building, commanded a magnificent 
view of the bay, near which the Hotel was located. The 
"Beebe House," a fine, commodious structure, was also 
erected, taking the place of the old "Perry House." The 
"Beebe'' was owned, and operated many years by Mr. 
Henry Beebe, now deceased. 

Dwelling houses and other buildings sprang up 
rapidly, and owners of real estate suddenly found them- 
selves wealthy. Not only had the place become a staple at- 
traction to visitors, but the peculiar adaptability of the soil 
and climate rendered grape culture a prolific source of 
gain, and Put-in-Bay and adjacent isles were soon covered 
with thrifty vineyards. 

The "Put-in-Bay House" was subsequently destroyed 
by fire. Years afterwards the hotel was rebuilt on a 



96 



Put - in - Bay 



smaller scale, by Valentine Doller, but was again burned to 
the ground. 

' ' Hotel Commodore, ' ' formerly the ' ' Beebe House, ' ' be- 
came the property of the present company in 1910 and was 
entirely remodeled and newly furnished. The hotel was 
further improved in 1911 and 1912 and at this date is 
considered thoroughly up-to-date, first-class in every re- 
spect and well managed. A palm garden is connected with 
the hotel, where special entertainments are given for the 




'Hotel Commodore' 



amusement of guests. Tourists find in Hotel Commodore 
all that they desire — a hotel splendidly located on the bay 
shore front, two squares from site of Perry's jMemorial, and 
commanding an exceedingly fine view of the bay and ad- 
jacent islands. 

"Park Hotel," ])uilt some years ago, is operated under 
the management of Lucas ]\Iyer. Takincr its name from the 



Put - in - Bay 



97 



island park upon which it fronts, the hotel is eligibly 
situated, is attractive in appearance and inviting as to 
hospitality. It entertains many season guests and its doors 
remain open when other summer hotels are closed. 




'Park Hotel" 



"Hotel Detroit" was the original "Hunker House.'' 
"With a change of proprietorship, it became known as 
"The Ward"; later as "Hotel Crescent"; finally receiv- 
ing, under the management of T. B. Alexander, its present 
name. Centering the busiest portion of the "Bay," it has 
also a park frontage, abundant shade and is convenient to 
the steamer landings. Its tables are commended as 
elegantly and hospitably furnished and its service all that 
could be desired. 

"Smith Cottage" forms still another attractive hos- 



98 



Put - hi - Bay 



telry. Pleasantly located near bathing beach and distant 
about five minutes' walk from boat landings, and post 
office, it has many visitors during the season. Its capacity 




"Smith Cottage" 



is fully c(iual to that of the average hotel, its meals first- 
class and ]>atronage large. B. L. Smith is its proprietor. 

"Hotel Oelschlager, " an old and well-known hostelry, 
is centrally stationed and entertains many Cincinnati and 
other patrons. 

The new "Hotel Perry," ran under management of 
Frank Rittman, occupies a site on the cave road near the 
post office. It is attractively furnished and homelike in 
its comforts. 

The "Reibel House,'' on Southshore road, one mile 
from the post office, is a favorite resort for Cincinnati 
people and has many patrons from other places. The 
"Doller," "Hitchcock," "Rehberg," "]\Iaple," "Castle,'' 



Put - in - Bay 



101 



"Heim," and "Conlen" cottages furnish also innumerable 
homelike attractions and comforts to their many guests who 
return year after year, and 'tis little wonder that the ' ' Sum- 
mer girl," and her "season's catch," and the older Summer 
people, who frequent these delightful places, are loath to 
take their departure. 




Grocery and Hardware Store of Jahannsen & Schnoor 



The above cut shows the new brick building recently 
erected by Jahannsen & Schnoor — grocers and hardwa?'e 
dealers — a modern equipped establishment in every partic- 
ular. The building contains two large storerooms, in 
fact, one of which is soon to be occupied by the island 
post office, of which Walter Ladd, Jr., is postmaster. It 
will be a depot also for souvenirs and other goods. 

The V. Doller general merchandise store and the shoe 
store of C. Doller are old and well-known establishments. 

Among later fledged enterprises, the Oelschlager store 



102 Put - i)i - Bay 

building and drug' store and restaurant of Fred Gross, 
may be numbered among business places. 

The growth of educational interests at Put-in-Bay 
during the past few years has been rapid. The High 
School, under the supervision of Prof. Koons, is in a 
flourishing condition, annually turning out a number of 
graduates. It boasts a well-furnished library. An addi- 
tional source of interest, and instruction, is a collection of 
minerals, fossils, shells, woods, seeds, etc., required in the 
study of Geology, Botany, Chemistry, and other branches. 

In addition to the R. E. Episcopal church — elsewhere 
mentioned in this work — St. Mary's Catholic has a large 
membership on the island. Quietly situated amid sur- 
rounding vineyards, the church is a neat edifice, having 




Doller's Dock 

received recent improvements, including attractive interior 
decorations. St. Mary's and its people are under the 
spiritual direction of Rev. Father Mearder. 

The docks — Put-in-Bay and Fox 's dock — and the ware- 
houses belonging to each, form the busiest place on the 
island. Besides the landing of thousands of passengers 
during the summer, large freight shipments are handled, 
including grapes in their season by the hundred ton. 



Put - in - B(nj 103 

The Pnt-in-Bay Board of Trade was organized Sep- 
tember 25, 1902. First officers elected "were: S. M. 
Jahannsen, President ; Edw. Haas, Vice-President, Henry 
Fox, Secretary, Wm. Kinzler, Treasurer. 

The object of this Board, when organized, was to 
further Put-in-Bay interests by the promotion of the 
prospei'ity and general welfare of the island by advertis- 
ing its advantages to tourists and the general public as 
an attractive resort. Through its efforts public improve- 
ments have been made as follows : Building of Put-in-Bay 
waterworks at cost of $8,250.00 ; sewerage system, $3,500.- 
00; improving Perry Park, and lake front; purchasing 
and donating memorial site to Perry Centennial Commis- 
sion at cost of $12,000. 

Present officers of the Board are as follows : S. 1\\. 
Johannsen, President ; J. J. Day, Vice-President ; Henry 
Fox, Secretary; Wm. Kinzler, Treasurer. The Board 
holds its meetings in the council chamber. 

Village officers are as follows : Mayor, T. B. Alex 
ander ; Marshal, Jno. Esselbach ; Clerk, Emil Ritter. 
There are also ten members of the council. 

The "Put-in-Bay Resort company" was recently in- 
corporated by S. M. Jahannsen, Matthias Ingold, Gustave 
Heinemann, Henry Fox, and George Fox. This company has 
purchased the remainder of the old Riveria estate, a tract 
of 129 acres on the west shore. They have also purchased 
property belonging to Crittenden, of Toledo ; Graydon, of 
Cincinnati; together with seven acres of Capt. E. J. 
Dodge. This includes the romantic sheet of water indent- 
ing Peach Point, to be known as "The Put-in-Bay Resort 
Co. Harbor," as all purchasing lots of this company will 
have the privilege of there sheltering their boats. The 
land acquired is to be developed, according to present 



101 



Flit - in -Bay 



plans. A large portion thereof is to be platted into small 
lots for cottages. The cave will be operated, also, and some 
other projects are under consideration. M. Ingold is 
President of this company; Henry Fox, Vice-President; 
S. M. Jahannsen, Secretary and Treasurer, and Gustave 
Heinemann, General Manager. 

Numerous buildings and other projects are on foot for 
the Centennial year, all of which serve to show the island's 
development. 




Hotel Yictorv. 



A famed attraction of Piit-in-Bay is Hotel Victory. 
The hotel, said to be the largest summer hostelry in 
America, occupies the highest site of land on the island 





£ 



'%^ 

>^^^^ 



"Victory" 

overlooking Victory park and the waters of Victory bay 
and commanding a scene of unrivalled beauty. 



106 



Hotel Victory 



The main bnilcling is in the form of a square and is 600 
feet long by 300 feet deep ; the main portion surrounding 
a court 3000 feet square. 

On one side, forming a wing and connected with the 
main building by a lobby, are the main dining hall, 
ordinary and kitchen, and back of these the servants' 
quarters. 

The main dining hall is 155 feet long, 85 feet wide 
and 52 feet high, wide galleries encompassing the entire 
hall. 







»^^^f-::^f 






Bird's-eye View of tiie Big Hote 




Hotel Victory 



107 



The ordinary is 50 x 100 feet, and the combined dining- 
capacity, including private banqueting halls and children's 
and nurses' dining hall, is 1,203 guests at one sitting. The 
guest chambers are 625 in number, large, light, airy and 
elegantly furnished, including 80 suites with baths. Every 
room fronts upon some lake view or toward the interior 
court, rendered charming with luxurious floral adornment, 
gravelled walks and other attractions. 

There are three elevators, bell boy stations on every 
floor, electric call bells, 6,000 incandescent electric lights. 




Grand Entrance 



108 



Hotel Victory 



steam heating throughout the entire structure, and the 
most modern equipped hotel kitchen, it is said, in the 
world. 

A ramble through the big hotel is almost equal to 
that taken through a small town. 

Luxurious appointments are everywhere seen. The 
parlors of the Victory are numerous, showing varied 
styles of furniture and embellishment, each a model of 
elegance, comfort and luxury. Especially ricli in uphol- 
stering are the ladies' grand parlors. 




Main Office 



Hotel Victonj 111 

The office, halls, lobbies and corridors are correspond- 
ingly magnificent, and in extent the place seems inter- 
minable, the combined length of the corridors alone being 
one mile, all handsomely carpeted. 

The main lobby — having a seating capacity of 1,000 
persons — is a favored resort for hotel visitors when the 
hotel is open and running. Here the orchestra daily and 
nightly assembles, and music, mirth and festivity rule the 
hour. However, it is in the great ball room — by myriads 
of electric lights arcaded, and rendered brilliant as noon- 
day — that representatives of social gaieties are more 
frequently found, joining in the grand promenade and 
mazy whirl. 

Others, again, seek the grand piazza, v»^hich extends the 
whole length of the main structure, where by day, or at 
night when illuminated with electricity, is found a breezy 
and most delightful place in which to doze and dream, or 
to hold social converse. From this outlook is afforded a 
scene upon which the eye may linger long without be- 
coming weary, so charmingly picturesque, so restful 
and delightful, its environments. 

The grounds adjoining the hotel form a landscape 
garden which nature and art combine to beautify. Pro- 
fuse but tasteful and exquisite tioral decorations appear. 
Foliage plants and blooms of torrid richness blend with 
paler hues; while climbing the white walls and stone- 
pillared steps, masses of maderia, morning glory, nastur- 
tium and woodbine spread a mantle of blossom-starred 
greenery. Care is taken to preserve natural effects, and in 
the park, consisting of twenty-one acres, extending to and 



112 



Hotel Victory 



along the shores of Victory bay, revels a profusion of 
flowers, both wild and cultivated. 

A rustic bridge of artistic design spans the park 
ravine ; rough ledges of lime rock outcrop, and hollow 




Assembly Hall 



stumps form receptacles for tender, blossoming plants and 
vines. An electric fountain sends aloft its jetting spray, 
and a cascaded board walk descends by gentle slope to the 
shore five hundred feet distant. 

The greatest charm of the park is its freedom, for the 
shore upon which it opens is as picturesque as ever con- 
spired to woo the lover of Nature. Masses of beetling rock, 
of rock cleft and riven as by volcanic action, gird its 



Hotel Victory 



Hi 



broken line, while in the caverns, indenting their base, 
echoes the sound of waves. As if to screen their rough- 
ness, vines and mosses cover and shrubbery and cedar 
clumps edge and overdroop them. 

Boat and bathing houses occupy an eligible site, com- 
manding a beach of smooth sand reached by a flight of 
steps. All the facilities for bathing are here afforded. 




PUTINBAV-iSLAND. 

LAKE E»lE OHIO 
"^ W.M>-M»e««-'. ^6 S. 

Coat of Arms 



Eai'ly Recollections of an Old-Timer 



D. P. Vronian, born and reared on Put-in-Bay, gives 
in the foregoing a few glimpses of the island as it appeared 
in the early fifties. 

''About my first remembrance was of a trip taken to 
the bay by Mother and me, from our home — a log cabin — 
built on lands noM^ included in the Antone Fuchs estate. 
Our course led through dense forest and along a trail used 
by settlers in hauling cedar and other wood and limestone, 
for shipment on vessels that then landed at the island — in 
the early fifties — for these commodities. Our vehicle was 
a dump cart, our team a yoke of oxen, the only means of 
transportation on the island at that time. At some point, 
on our trip, the lynch pin came out and we were unceremo- 
niously dumj^ed out upon the ground. I have often heard 
Mother say that, after this experience, I would always 
ask, on getting into any kind of conveyance, '^Mother, 
will it dump?' 

''Our first physician was a Dr. Girty, a nephew of 
Simon Girty — the renegade who allied himself with the 
British and Indians in the war against the early pioneers 
of the Western Reserve. Dr. Girty made professional 
calls on the writer — a lad of five or six years — who w^as 
afflicted with fever and ague, then very prevalent among 
the very few island residents. Doctor Girty lived on East 
Sister Island, and we at that time resided in a hewn log 
house in the grounds of the old manor, or "white house." 
summer home of Mr. Edwards, who was then owner of the 
Bass Islands. This manor house had been the home of 

(114) 



Early h'< collections of an Old-Timer 117 

Henry Hyde and family, who came to the island in 1818, 
five years after the battle of Lake Erie. Hyde was an 
anient of Judge Edwards. The Hyde family lived many 
years on Piit-in-Bay. Mrs. H. and several of her childien 
died, and were buried on the grounds which afterwards 
became a part of the "Put-in-Bay House" property. As 
a child, I played about these graves, marked by a plain 
marble slab. This slab was in more recent years removed 
to the Put-in-Bay cemetery, wkere it was given a prom- 
inent place near the main entrance, with fitting arrange- 
ment by the trustees. Some of the children of Henry Hyde 
still reside in Ottawa county, of Avhich Put-in-Bay forms 
a part. 

"At the period concerniiJg which I write, there were 
two docks; one at the southwest side of the island, known 
as the West Dock, the other at the bay. Ccrd-wood was sold 
in large quantities to lake vessels, together with cedar, and 
other timber and cobblestone for paving purposes, to Cleve- 
land, Toledo, and other near-by cities. East Point then 
boasted of but one log cabin, which stood on land now 
owned by Mrs. Lorenz Miller. There was another log 
cabin at the West Dock ; one on the Antone Fuchs place, 
Avhich my father and his family once occupied, and a cedar 
log house near present site of the V. Doller store. These. 
with a hewn log dwelling in the yard of the old manor 
house, and the manor itself, formed the only places of habi- 
tation on Put-in-Bay as late as 1853 or 1854. 

"In 1854, Mr. De Riveria purchased all three of the 
Bass Islands from the Edwards family. Simon Fox be- 
came agent for Riveria ; Theodore Lauenstien, bookkeeper, 
and Phillip Vroman, the writer's father, was put in 
charge of extensive clearing and developing ideas carried 
out by Mr. Riveria. Phillip Vroman is the oldest resident 



JiA Earhj J,'( coiUctioiis of an OJd-Titner 

of Put-in-Bay township, having resided on the island since 
1843. The first farm — 100 acres — was purchased by him 
about the year 1846. Pound fishing started about this 
time, a very important factor in the early development of 
the islands and which was soon followed by introduction 
of the grape-growing industry. 

"Capt. George W. Orr brought with him on his ar- 
rival the steamer 'Island Queen': land sold repidly; 
Moore & West began building the famous 'Put-in-Bay 
House'; Valentine Doller opened the first general store 
and also became our first postmaster. Other business 
enterprises came in due season, and, notwithstanding a 
few reverses, Put-in-Bay has continued to progress and, 
with the completion of the Perry Memorial, we hope to 
enter a new and enlarged field of prosperity. With Hotel 
Victory in perfect repair, and full operation ; with an 
electric railway belting the entire island, and cottages all 
along its shores ; A\dth an electric road to Catawba island ; 
the 'Tourist' making daily trips thither all winter and 
hourly runs the rest of the year; electric lights, and our 
natural gas developed, the islanders' pipe dreams will be 
realized, and we shall begin to live, in 1913." 



Middle Bass and Her Attractions. 



The original name conferred upon Middle Bass, 'way 
back in the obscure past, embodies a fragment of romantic 
history. Its origin dates from the earliest recorded history 
of lake navigation, when, about the year 1680, a lone bark 
bound westward up the lake and bearing a devout band of 
Jesuit missionaries under the spiritual guidance of Father 
Hennepin (famed both for his piety and his skill as a 
navigator) touched at the isle. Alarmed by the white 
winged visitor that came silently and mysteriously out of 
the blue distance to cast anchor upon their shores, the ter- 
rified redskins left camp fire and wigwam and gathered 
menacingly upon the sands. The dark faces of the waiting 
savages grew yet darker and more distorted with fear and 
hatred, and each painted warrior clutched closer his toma- 
hawk at sight of the pale faces stringing ashore in small 
boats. Through his interpreter, however, Father Hennepin 
■ — bearing in his hand a white flag — hastened to assure the 
Indians that the mission of himself and his followers was 
a mission of Peace. They had come, through motives of 
kindness and brotherly love, to tell them the story of the 
Cross. To the words of Father Hennepin they listened 
wonderingly^many of the number becoming converts. 
This service conducted by the Jesuit priest, formed notably 
the first service of the Christian Church ever held on the 
Lake Erie IslandvS. The season was early spring, and from 
shore to shore each jutting clitf of lime-rock and every 
wooded haunt displayed garnitures of wild bloom in such 
endless variety and exuberance as to draw the strangers' 

(121) 



122 



Middle Bass and II< r Aiiracii'. ns 



attention. Enchanted with tlie island and its floral beauty, 
the missionaries, who were French, named it Isle des 
Fleurs — a name subsequently dropped, however, for the 
more prosaic appellation which it now bears. 

In celebrity, the island is much larger than in area, 
the latter including about 1200 acres only. In shape, the 
island has been compared to a duck. East Point forming 
the head, which is attached to the main body by a long and 
very attenuated neck, making the total length about three 
miles. Its shore lines are of a decidedly rambling nature. 




Wehrle's Hall 



Middle Bass and Her Attractio)is 123 

almost losing themselves in the pretty bays and pictur- 
esque points shapen by their meanderings. 

Wave-worn and cavern-perforated rocks, wreckage- 
strewn beaches with belting trees and undergrowth of al- 
most impenetrable density, are characteristic of the ^liddle 
Bass shores at some points. Inland, stretching beyond this 
fringe of Nature, appear orchard and vineyard lands, 
gardens, and truck patches. 

As the steamer pulls up to the island wharves, the 
iirst object that attracts attention is the structure once 
famed as a resort for gaiety lovers, known as "Wehrle's 
Hall'' — the trysting place of youth and pleasure. The 
hall is reached by broad flights of stairs leading to outside 
balconies above. The ballroom floors afford space for hun- 
dreds of dancers, and, during the outing season, thousands 
of people from Cleveland, Detroit and other lake and 
inland places thither wend their way to sample the island 
wines and "trip the mazy." In the basement are the wine 
cellar vaults where visitors were shown a wine cask said 
to be the largest in the world. 

Notwithstanding its reputation as a summer resort, 
IMiddle Bass was long destitute of anything resembling a 
hotel. This want was recently supplied, however, by the 
erection of a fine hotel structure on site of the old Wherle 
residence near the steamboat landing. The new hostelry 
is owned by August Schmidt, of Sandusky. The Wehrle 
place, above mentioned, was formerly known and admireil 
for its artistic and beautiful grounds. The residence, 
however, was burned in recent years. 

The nearest approach to a public conveyance seen on 
the island proper is the East Point "bus," drawn by one 
horse, though a two-horse rig connects the boat landing 
with Middle Bass Club. In the interests of educational 



124 



Middle Bass and Her Attraciions 



advancement, the East Point "bus" maKes semi-daily 
trips between the "Point," and the schoolhoiise, situated 
near the island's western portion, for the purpose of con- 
veying' back and forth the children and youth. 

If a lover of nature, unspoiled by art, you should take 
passage in the "bus," providing you can catch it, for a 
trip to the "Point." Go as far as it will take you, then 
walk until you reach the "jumping-off place." 




School House 



Having secured a seat, the driver flourishes a long 
gad, and his old timer is soon jogging serenely along a 
road, which is redeemed from the monotony of dead levels 
by its meanderings. Vineyards to left and right unending, 
the islanders who till them being about the only people met. 

Owing to overproduction, and corresponding low 
prices, grapes are not as profitable as they once were, still 
the islanders manage to absorb more ready cash from a 
ten-acre vineyard than the average farmer can make off 



Middle Bass and Her Attracfions 



127 



IGO acres of ordinary farm produce. Peach, pear, and 
plum orchards — seen by the way — contribute also to the 
islanders' source of revenue. 

Most of the inhabitants live in substantial and, in 
many instances, elegantly built houses. They dress well, 
live well, and have jolly good times together. 




Island Hall 



The island hall, a commodious frame structure, affords 
accommodation for public entertainments of various kinds. 

Though lacking a church edifice, the islanders boast a 
prosperous Sunday School, where piety and gcod morals 
are taught ''the young and rising generation.'' 

Cultivated lands suddenly cease and the road — as you 
jog along — turns and follows an embanlonent, with the 
lake on the one side and an extensive swamp on opposite 



128 



Middle Bass and Tier Aitractions 



side. Garlanded each, and draped from root to top with 
wild grapes, wild "morning glory,'' "bitter sweet," and 
other, native vines, the tree branches meet overhead, form- 
ing sylvan arcades. Beds of water lilies spread over the 
marsh's still surface; swamp blackbirds abound, together 
with water fowl that hibernate in almost impenetrable 
tangles of bushes, reeds, and wild rice, and, if you watch 
elcsely, glimpses may be caught of an occasional marsh 
hen, with her brood of chicks hopping abnut over half 
submerged logs, or wading the shallows. If provided wdth 




At the Bend of the Road — East Point — Photo by Author 



a camera, you will be tempted to use every plate it contains, 
but will secure some taking views of nature in the rough. 
This road forms the island's long and crooked neck, 
which more than once has narrowly escaped being broken 



Middle Bass and Ho- Atfracti'nis 



129 



by the force of waves tiung against it during violent 
Nor'easters. Formerly, the road at some points in he ivy 
weather was inundated by the waves. The occupants of 
passing vehicles were showered with surf that rushed be- 
neath their horses' hoofs and spouted aloft, while only 
pedestrians in high water boots could get by dry shod. 

After much work, and large expenditure, a new road, 
or causeway, was built up, forming a safe and substantial 
thoroughfare. The old road formed in fact one of the 
island's staple curiosities. Just wide enough for a wagon 
track, it wound its tortuous way along a ridge of the 
roughest gravel piled up by the waves, against which the 
islanders were wont to scrape the enamel from their 
Sunday shoes. Dense thickets encroached upon the road- 
wav, rising almost to the horses' bits. 




A Beach View, East Point, Middle B-ss — Piioto by Autnor 



130 Mi'ldlc Bass (Did Her AitvacUons 

On one occasion during a storm of unprecedented 
fury, the island was cut into two parts — lake and marsh 
uniting in one grand expanse of yeasty, choppy sea, in the 
midst of which the road lost its identity, but later appeared 
above the surface like a second edition of the "Cincinnati 
Anticlinal." Fearful of losing altogether in some tearing 
storm their only thoroughfare, the "Point'' dwellers ap- 
pealed for help to the county road commissioners. 

Denizens of East Point have latterly become less de- 
pendent upon road privileges for connection with the 
world ; howbeit, since nearly every resident is now owner of 
a launch, with which he makes the run to Wehrle's, or 
across to the "Bay," at pleasure and with but small loss 
of time. 

East Point is an attractive spot, and boasts a club and 
club house. The former is composed of prominent San- 
dusky people, while the fine old mansion, once the home of 
Mrs. John Lutes (deceased), serves as the club house. 

Many of the island pioneers rest within the small, but 
well-kept, and beautiful cemetery. 

The Post Office is situated on the main island road 
and Mrs. Burns holds the position of postmistress. 

Like their neighbors of adjacent isles, the IMiddle Bass 
people engage to some extent in the fishing industry. 

FAMOUS MIDDLE BASS CLUB. 

Sentiment, as well as a craving appetite for piscato- 
rial pastimes, must have figured in the deal, when a 
company of "Buckeye'' representatives — high in social 
standing and correspondingly in the business and political 
world — purchased a tract of several acres, some years ago, 
on Middle Bass Island, and there permanently established 
a fishing and boating club that has since become famous. 



Middle Bass and Her Affyactiojis 133 

The site selected occupied the island's western extiemity, 
a most eligible location. Here, for many long seasons, the 
elite of city social circles have mingled with staid legisla- 
tors and statesmen, fat capitalists and men of hulk, 
breadth and l)rains generally, all taking a hand off and on 
at the rod and trolling line. The organization formerly 
included a membership of about 200, among whom ap- 
peared the names of Gov. Foster, Gov. Bushnell, Senator 
Foraker, Gen. J. Warren Kietfer, and others quite as 
prominent. 

Though exclusive in their tastes, the club people hav« 
long been famous as entertainers. Not every "Weary 
Willie'' may stretch his legs under their banquet tables; 
but the worth-while individual, lucky enough to secure an 
invite, there enjoys "a feast of reason and a iiow of soul," 
together with a bill of fare and service sufficiently elabo- 
rate ;uid digniiled as to please the most fastidious. 

Among individuals of note booked as guests of the 
club have appeared the names of Ex-Pres. Harrison, Ex- 
Pres. Cleveland, Senator Hanna, Cassius M. Clay, of 
Kentucky, and members of the Garfield, Rusk, and Sher- 
man f iniilies. These, with a wliole galaxy of less3r lights 
of greater or less brilliance, have appeared from time to 
time as guests of the club. 

Following an arduous political campaign, Pres. Har- 
rison once enjoyed a month's retirement at Middle Bass 
club, as a guest at the Berdan cottage. On several occa- 
sions, Grover Cleveland was a delighted visitor at the club, 
being entertained at the cottage of La Roy Brooks. 

For bass fishing Grover entertained an especial fond- 
ness, and his reputation as a proficient along this line, al- 



134 



Middle Bass and Her Attractions 



most equalled that of Jay Cooke, the well-known Philadel- 
phia financier. Jay Cooke rendezvoused during the bass 
fishing season, spring, and fall, at his castled summer 
residence on Gibraltar Island, distant less than half a mile 
from Middle Bass, fishing at times on the same grounds 
with the Ex-President. Though both of these celebrities 
— once familiar figures on the islands — have been removed 




"Grover's" Retreat — Cottage of La Roy Brooks at Club — 
Photo by Author 

by death, still rife with reminiscences is the club, concern- 
ing the lively sport enjoyed when "Jay" and "Grover*' 
figured as contestants for the black bass fishing champion- 
ship. Very many in fact of the club's original members 
and guests have crossed the "Great Divide.'' 

Political and other differences have further conspired 
to reduce the membership, and to affect club interests to 
some extent, yet notwithstanding these difficulties, the 
organization is still recognized as ore of the strongest and 
most popular in Ohio. 



Middle Bass and Tier Attractions 



135 



Run on the same line as in former years, the club is 
kept open from early May until mid October. In addition 
to the club house — a fine commodious structure with ex- 
tensive verandas, wide and cool — the grounds contain a 
handsome pavilion and boat houses, a Gothic chapel, and 
a large and elegant hall, at which are held club parties and 
entertainments. These attractions, together with a collec- 
tion of artistically built cottage^, shaded avenues and care- 




Bass Fishing 



fully kept lawns, form in themselves a village of matchless 
beauty. Every beautiful and artistic effect in the arrange- 
ment of vines, vases, plants and shrubbery is studied, every 
detail being looked after with scrupulous care. Pavements 
of smooth white stone edge the main avenues, connecting 
M'ith wharves and pier, and during the summer a ferry 
line steamer plies between the club grounds and Put- 
in -Ba v. 



136 



Mi'Jdlc Bass and Her Aiiraciions 



As to fishing outfits, some of the swellest are displayed 
l)oth on hind and water. However, the boys, both young 
and old. make a specialty of comfort, rather than appear- 
ance, and may be frequently seen attired m unccnventional 
garb, with slouch hats or caps and wi^h sleeves rolled 
hi^h, cruising the fishing grounds about Rattlesnake 
Island, amongst the Hen and Chickers grou}), or elsewhere, 
in pursuit of the gamy black bass, which, with lengthy 
i)ani])0()s. trolling lines, spoon hcoks, dip rets or almost 
anv (lid thinii, thev seek to inveigle. 




CcltTge Formerly Occupied by Gov. Bushnell — Photo by Author 



Life at the club is one continued round of happiness. 
Fishing, bathing and canoeing occupy young and old. 
]\rusic by the club orchestra, piaro or mandolin may bs 
heard during the afternoon and evening. Rehberg Hall 
echoes to the feet of dancers, while gaily painted boats 
and white winged yachts put out from shore with pleasure 
parties. Pr()]icl]ers. with strings of barges l)ouiid up and 



Middle Bass and Ho- Attractions 137 

down the watery highways of commerce, come and go, and 
shadowy sails appear to vanish again in the blending haze 
of sea and sky. Such is life at Middle Bass Club, and 
every fisherman who has once wet a line in these famo;is 
w-aters yearns to come again and yet again. 



"Isle De Fleurs." 



From a time obscure and olden, 
Linked by chain of legends golden, 

To the present day, 
Comes to us a pleasing s'ory, 
Full of reminiscence hoary, 

Down the ages grey. 

'Tis about a lonely islet, 
Stretching under skies of violet. 

In the hazy west ; 
Brightly fair among the number 
That together calmly slumber 

On Lake Erie's breast. 

Near it one propitious June day, 
Anchored fast, a wave-worn brig lay, 

After voyage long ; 
Over leagues of untried waters, 
AVhere the dusky warrior's daughters 

Sang their chieftain's song; 

While upon the Avavelets lightly, 
Touched by silver moonbeams nightly, 

Sped their bark canoes: 
But the white- winged vessel lying 
AVith her tattered pennon flying. 

Resting from her cruise ; 

(138) 



"Isle Dc Fleurs" 139 

Was the first sail of the white man 
Ever risk of roclv and reef ran, 

On Lake Erie's wave; 
And the painted ishmd savage, 
Used alone to war and ravage, 

Fearful grew, and grave. 

On the beach they quickly gathered. 
Youthful brave and warrior feathered, 

At a sight so new; 
And in silence there awaited 
Small boats with intruders freighted, 

Prom "the Avinged canoe." 

Facing then the vessel's captain, 
Quoth an aged, dusky chieftain : 

""Wherefore art thou here? 
Pale-face, tell us : Cam 'st thou hither 
All the red man's hopes to wither, 

By the breath of fear?" 

"Cam'st thou to despoil our treasure. 
Basely to enslave at pleasure 

Youthful maidens fair? 
Cam'st for bloody war and pillage. 
Ruthlessly to burn our village, 

And our braves ensnare?" 

Then a man of stately bearing. 
Symbols sacred meekly wearing 

On his priestly gown, 
Eose to greet each dusky native, 
While a heartfelt lij^nn oblative 

Softly floated round. 



140 



"Isle De FIcurs" 



Spake the priest — a Bible holding, 
xViul its precepts there unfolding — 

"Came we that strife m:\v cease! 
Fear not these, thy stranger brothers ; 
This our motto — 'Love to others.' 

And our mission — ])eaee. " 




The Painted Island Cavage 

Then he told the olden stoi'v, 
AVliieh, traiLscendent in its gloiy, 

Gilds the sacred Word, 
And the painted island ssvage, 
Used alone to war and rav. ge, 

^larveled as he heard. 



All the green isle overspreading, 
Widely fragrance richly shedding 

Through the balmj^ air ; 
Bloomed in wild, unkempt profusion, 



"IsUi De Fhiirs" 141 

'Mid the tangled wood's seclusion, 
Flow 'rets brightly fair. 

With the lovely shore? delighted, 
"Which these voyagers had sighted, 

And had early hailed — 
Isle de Fleurs — "Isle of Flowers" — 
Named they thus its pristine bowers 

Ere again they sailed. 

Cent'ries now, with movimient solemn. 
Every trace has swept before them 

Of these voyagers : 
Yet this isle of pleasing story 
Bears the name and blossomed glory 

Which of old were hers. 



*Note. — Acccrding to histcrioal account, the first sail craft 
that ever riuised the island v/aiers anchored off what is now 
known as Middle Bass, in th? latter part of the 17th century. 
The vessel, bound up the lake, carried a party of French mission- 
aries, among whom was Father I-ouis Hennesin. Upon this 
island the missionaries landed, a,nd there conducted the first 
religious service supposed ever <o have been held in the archi- 
pelago by representatives of the Christian faith. So delighted 
with the island and its rich display of floral wealth were these 
early navigators, that they named it Isle de Fleurs — "Isle of 
Flowers." 



Isle St. George and Its Atti-actions. 



On every alternate day when the U. ►S. mail and pas- 
senger steamer of the island and Sandnsky line reaehc-s 
Put-in-Bay, and has discharged the bnlk of her freight, 
there yet remains a little side trip that is both intere ting, 
and pleasurable ; namely, to the furtherest outlying Bass 
Island, four miles northward, tri-weekly trips to Saudusky 
and return being regularly afforded islanders there resid- 
ing. Runs thither are also made in the early morn, while 
Put-in-Bay residents — some of thein at least — are still in 
bed. Summer visitors and others who fail to catch the 
morning boat find a staple attraction, therefore, in an 
evening trip to Isle St. George. 

Clearing from the "Bay" wharves, the steamer, 
thither bound, rounds slowly that portion of Gibraltar, 
picturesquely showing "Perry's Lookout.'' and the 
"Needle's Eye" — now luminous in the broad pathway of 
gold east by the setting sun over waters westward lying. 
To leftward, "Green" and "Rattlesnake" Islands bask in 
the evening glow, and on rounding a northwesterly projec- 
tion of IMiddle Bass, Isle St. George looms clearly into 
view. 

White curving beaches of sand and gravel, with in- 
terspersing lines of pictured rock, girdle its shores. 
Viewed in early summer, when Nature with lavish hand 
showers the choicest of her adornments, and when blos- 
somed gardens, and orchards, riot running vines, and 
green sward form settings for the neat cottages and elegant 
residences of its dwellers, the island at this season forirs 

(142) 



Isle St. George aiu] Its Atiractioiis 145 

a most attractive spot. Seen even in the sombre dress and 
beneath the dnll lights of late autumn, the island is still 
redolent of charms, which brown leaves and denuded vine- 
yards are powerless to destroy. 

From a sheltered niche of St. George's shore, projects 
a pier, commodious, and well built, with a Avarehouse and 
office at its outer extremity. This is the lauding place 
of the island steamer. 

The old appellation. North Bass, still clings, though 
the more romantic, and euphonious — Isle St. George — is 
in popular favor, not only with the majority of residents, 
but with "Uncle Sam," by whom it has been officially 
adopted as a post office name. To the prosaic officials of 
Huron county, who in 1820 made out its first tax dupli- 
cate, it was known as "Bass Island No. 3." The island 
being a part of the Connecticut "Firelands, " or Western 
Reserve, an agent thereof paid taxes accruing from 1820 
to 1825. After this date, according to a local historian, 
the title was transferred to an individual named Demming. 
Later on, the title was again transferred from Abigail 
Demming to Horace Kelley of Kelley's Island. It also 
included North Bass and Rattlesnake Islands, considera- 
tion for the whole being $2,800. 

Regardless of these transfers, there seems to have 
been no permanent occupancy of the island until 1844, 
when the first settler, Rosswell Nichols, arrived in a small 
boat bearing a few household goods, his wife, and two 
brothers-in-law, Scott by name. Though "squatters," 
they built and furnished a cabin and made other improve- 
ments. How it happened is not stated, but from the fore- 
going it is inferred that the Firelands Society had regained 
ownership of the island ; since according to historian, 
above quoted, Rosswell Nichols finally leased the property, 



146 



Isle St. George diiel Its Atireietioiis 



the consideration being that he (Nichols) should pay the 
taxes annually amounting to five dollars. Dr. Townsend, 
who later became a resident of the island, acting as agent, 
visited North Bass in 1845, for the purpose of arranging 
business pertaining to said lease. To make the round trip 
consumed a full week of the doctor's time, which, forming 
quite an adventure, is here related in his own words, as 
follows : 

"I was practicing medicine in Rochester, N. Y., at the 
time, and having business in Sandusky the owner of North 
Bass Island (Champion) gave me power of attorney to 
procure lease of Rosswell Nichols, who occupied the island 
as a S(iuatter. There were no steamboats and to reach the 
place was a question. I finally got set over on to the 
peninsula in a row boat. From there I hired an Indian to 
take me across to Put-in-Bay in his canoe. Thence, I 
succeeded in getting passage to North Bass. I found the 
said Nichols, his wife and the two Scott Brothers, sole oc- 
cupants. Making known my business, Nichols asked me 




The Old "Peter Fox Dock," Isle St. George 



Isle St. George and Its Attyaetioiis 147 

111)011 wliat terms be could lease the island. He had made 
a small clearing on the spot which afterwards became the 
property of Peter Fox. I proposed that he should pay the 
taxes, and send receipt to Rochester each year; fence at 
his own cost the land he had cleared, without recourse to 
owner for any improvements he chose to make, he to have 
all of the avails. Nichols accepted the terms but made re- 
([uest that we furnish him $150, towards building a barn, 
and he would do the rest at his own cost. I counted out 
the money and drew up the lease. The barn was built 
according to agreement and now stands just east of 
the wine cellars on the Peter Fox premises." 

In 1849, the seclusion of the Nichols-Scott settlement 
was broken by the arrival of the Wires family — George 
Wires, who came from the mainland, having purchased 
there a tract of 137 acres. The same year Nichols bought 
114 acres, the consideration being five dollars per acre. 

In 1853, Simon and Peter Fox came as settlers to the 
island from Pt. Au Pelee, having purchased all of the re- 
maining portion of land still unoccupied. 

Fruit produced by wild grape vines on North Bass 
Mere of such quality that one of the islanders, Simon Fox, 
was led to believe the soil and climate peculiarly adapted 
t« the culture of improved varieties, such as the Concord, 
Delaware, and Catawba, and by way of experiment put 
out an acre of the same. The vines flourished, producing 
in time a splendid crop, and proving in every way a suc- 
cess. Having thus discovered that to which the soil was 
best suited, the price of land suddenly advanced, subdivi- 
sions of the larger tracts being made to fill the demands of 
purchasers, all of whom began the culture of grapes. 
Results transcended the islanders most sanguine expecta- 
tions, the largest, best flavored, and most delicious clusters 



148 



Isle St. Geary e anel lis Attractions 



ever produced, loading the vines. In a few years after the 
first planting of grapes, the whole island — barring occa- 
sional tracts of pasture land, gardens, and orchards — 
luxuriated in vineyards. Concord grapes then sold at from 
four to five cents a pound ; Catawbas, from six to eight 
cents, and Delawares from eight to ten cents a pound. 
Some additional pioneers of the island, and of grape cul- 
ture, were P. Cummings, Dr. C. D. Townsend, Dr. Morton, 
H. G. Fox, Geo. Fox, J. Snide. C. K. 2^lmor, C. Reichel, G. 
H. Smith, Gen. Lindsley, Wm. Axtell, and others. 




I Snore View Near "Up and Up" Club House 

The fishing industry, carried on for years by North 
Bass, or, more poetically and properly speaking. Isle St, 
George residents, has grown to be an extensive and profit- 
able occupation, reefs, and feeding beds around the island 
covering miles in extent, and inviting large schools of 
fishes, including black bass. Fish houses, fishing boats, 
fish nets — by mile lengths, fish net reels and the tarry 
fisher himself, are among picturesque objects seen at Isle 
St. George. Among veteran fishermen is oft mentioned 
Captain Sanderson, who, during a residence of over thirty 
years, proved a most successful manipulator of twine and 



Isle St. George and Its Attractions 149 

canvas. Henry Kimmel, another hardy fisher, still haunts 
the isle, though latterly residing elsewhere. The Fox 
In'others and numerous other resident fishermen have quite 
distinguished themselves along this line. 

Practically all of the islanders are adventurers, in fact, 
on water, as well as on ice, conditions peculiar to so isolated 
a location having conspired to render them such — the 
island lying four miles from Put-in-Bay, sixteen from Pt. 
Clinton and twenty-four miles from Sandusky, the nearest 
trading centers. All the marvelous, not to say blood-curd- 
ling escapades, for which its inhabitants have been famous 
since the island's first settlement, would afford material 
for a whole series of entertaining novels. Old settlers used 
habitually to jeopardize their lives in reaching mainland 
points across the ice, when supplies were needed ; also to 
procure and dispatch mail matter, or to transact business. 
Present day inhabitants inherit the spirit of adventure — 
having been born thereto. 

Among early pioneers, Peter and Simon Fox are 
especially remembered for their hazardous undertakings. 
A cold bath — to the neck — from breaking through the ice, 
they regarded as laughable incidents, only. The breaking 
in, and submergence of a horse was a little more serious, 
but they generally succeeded in getting the animal out of 
its predicament. 

Simon Fox, on one occasion, it is related, was crossing 
from St. George to Put-in-Bay with horse and sled ; when 
about midway between these islands an easterly wind 
sprung up, suddenly parting and breaking up the ice in 
all directions. Simon noted the newly sprung seams of 
open water and jostling ice floes just ahead, and the long 
and gradually widening crack extending rearward between 
him and Isle St. George. Here was that which even the 



150 



Isle St. (icurgc <iud lis AffracfioHS 



most intrepid M^onld admit as "real danger." A few 
moments' delay, as he saw at a glance, would cut him off 
entirely from land, and would send him adrift down Lake 




The "Tigers" — Kenney Club Rooms — Isle St. George 

Erie. The crack was already too wide for the horse and 
sled to cross without getting into the 1 ke. There was but 
one alternative. It required dextrous a^id rapid move- 
ments, and strength as well. When making the leap of 
his life, Simon cleared the crack, landing safely upon solid 
ice, and later reaching shore. Maroored on an ice floe in 
the meantime, horse and sled drifted outward towards the 
open lake. Simon, however, did not propose letting his 
equine companion go by the board. Securing a boat, the 
assistance of a neighbor, and plenty of rope, the two 
pulled rapidly outward in pursuit of the fugitive horse and 
sled. Regardless of the sea that had risen and was al- 



Isle St. George and Its Attractions 151 

ready sending spray showers upward from between the 
running ice cakes, the horse — a quiet animal — maintained 
its position, evidently wondering what all the fuss was 
about. With great difficulty the men finally succeeded in 
fastening ropes to the floe bearing horse and sled. The 
ropes fortunately held, and the floe and its cargo wore 
towed ashore and the rig safely landed. 

Perhaps the most strenuous experiences known to the 
islanders, occur when medical aid is urgently needed, and 
a terrific storm of two or three days' duration is raging; 
or in winter when both storm and running ice must be 
encountered. 

For the doctor it is also a strenuous undertaking, it 
especially he is new in the field, though as a "passenger," 
he is not expected to take a hand at the ropes, oars, pike- 
poles, or axes — as the case may require — unless for his 
personal diversion or possibly for a warming exercise. 

Isle St. George once boasted two doctors, but that was 
long ago. One of the number, Dr. C. D. Townsend, now 
dead and gone, has left a record of some of his exploits, 
noted as below : 



Adventures of an Island Doctor. 



"A mail carrier and a doctor doing a traveling busi- 
ness among these islands frequently have some pretty tough 
experiences, and no mistake." 

The speaker patted and smoothed the fur muffler he 
held in his hand while he stood in front of the big base- 
burner trying to thaw himself. 

"The fact is," continued he, after a moment's reflec- 
tion, "I don't believe there is any class or condition of men 
upon this terrestrial ball that see more of a rough-and- 
tumble existence than they, unless it is a Rocky mountain 
stage driver or an Arctic explorer. 

"I have roughed it on 'Old Erie' for years; not as a 
sailor, but as a doctor, traveling by steamer, skiff, sail and 
on foot. Like the flying Dutchman, I am forever on the 
wing, beating about in all weather, over all creation and a 
part of Canada." 

"Indeed! so your practice extends to the Canada 
shore?" 

"Oh, yes," replied the doctor, "I have had practice 
in Leamington, Kingsville, and other points along the 
Canada main as well as at Point au Pelee, Kelley's. the 
Bass Islands and the Peninsula. 

"I have traveled back and forth so much that I have 
pretty nearly lost my identity, and hardly know whether 
I belong to United States or Canada. 

"When I'm here Uncle Sam claims me, and when I 
go over the lake they try to annex me to the queen's 
dominions." 

(152) 



Isle St. George and Its Attractions 153 

"I suppose you find it risky business traveling over 
the ice sometimes?" 

"Oh, yes, indeed. It's all solid enough this winter, but 
I have been called from one island to another when it 
wasn't fit for any human being to cross. 

"I have traveled for miles from one point to another 
when I had to bridge the whole distance with boards, the 
ice being all broken up." 

"How did you do that?" 

"By means of two boards, one laid in front of the 
other. When I stepped from one board to the other I 
pulled up the board I stepped off and put it down in 
front, and so on across. Once I remember, I came pretty 
near going down, boards and all. I tell you I had to lay 
my bridge and get over it just about as lively as anything 
you ever saw. 

"I am not a member of the church, and yet I suppose 
I have been immersed in Lake Erie often enough to make 
me one. 

"I crossed the channel once when the ice was very 
treacherous. I carried a long pike pole in my hand and 
picked my way carefully for a time. At last I got careless, 
and, being in a hurry, did not watch my footing, when all 
at once the ice gave way under my feet and in I went. 
The long ends of the pole saved me, however, catching on 
the ice and holding me waist deep in the water. With the 
energy of desperation, I grasped the pike pole firmly and 
threw myself right over it, landing upon the ice. The 
weather was intensely cold and when I reached the shore 
my clothes were frozen stiff and covered with ice like a 
coat of mail. 

" 'You look as if you had been in the lake, said a man 
whom I happened to meet. 



154: 



Isle St. George and Its Attractions 



" 'Maybe I have,' I replied, and hui-ried on to the 
nearest house." 

At this point the departure of the mail cutter for Port 
Clinton caused a break in the narrative, and buttoning up 
his overcoat, the doctor hurried away to visit a patient 
upon an adjoining island. 




IsUnd School House 

Isle St. George hns produced many staunch and 
worthy seamen — Ca])t. Arthur Fox, Capt. J. C. Fox, 
Capt. Seitz, Capt. Tulian, Capt. ]\IeNelly, and others. 
Capt. Arthur Fox, formerly of the steamer "Frank E. 
Kirby," was recently placed in command of the new 



Isle St. George and Its Atfractients 155 

steamer "Put-in-Bay." This well-known and thoroughly 
trustworthy seaman received a practical test of courage 
and endurance when, as mail carrier during the, winter 
season between the Bass Islands and mainland, he had 
many thrilling adventures on the ice. 

Concerning the establishment of post offices on the 
Bass Islands in "Auld Lang Syne,'' is related the fol- 
lowing reminiscence. 

"After the location of an office at Put-in-Bay, or 
South Bass, application for a similar institution was made 
by the inhabitants of North Bass. This island, lying four 
miles from the former place, was granted the privilege. 

Application was then made by the people of Middle 
Bass, but the petition was refused on the ground that the 
island lying but one mile from Put-in-Bay, the inhabitants 
of both islands could obtain their mail from the same of- 
fice. The gentleman through whom the application was 
made now called into requisition the services of his daugh- 
ter, an adept at the brush. The young lady was instructed 
to paint a picture, or diagram, representing the islands 
and their relative localities. In the channel which sepa- 
rates Middle Bass from Put-in-Bay was portrayed a 
tremendous sea tearing through the passage at cyclonic 
velocity, while a small vessel, dismantled and forlorn, ap- 
peared wildly beating through the channel at mercy of the 
gale. To emphasize the tossed and terrific appearance of 
the channel, all of the surrounding waters of the lake were 
pictured calm and motionless as a summer sky. This 
diagram was forwarded to the pest office department at 
Washington, as an explanation why Middle Bass people 
couldn 't get their mail at Put-in-Bay. 

In an incredibly short space, a reply was received from 
the officials at "Washington, granting the establishment of 



156 



Isle St. George a)ul Its Attractiejus 



said office, and asking permission to retain the diagram^ 
as it represented "some remarkable and phenomenal con- 
ditions," and they wished to place it on file. 

The first post office incumbent at St. George was Peter 
Fox. The office at present time is filled by Miss Axtell. 

On alternate days when the island steamer does not 
touch at St. George, the mail is carried across the channel 
in a launch by Captain McNelly, and placed on board the 
steamer at Middle Bass. 

Thrift is the word that best explains how an isolated 
community like that of Isle St. George has not only 




Congregational Church 



Isle St. George and Ifs Affractions 157 

managed to live, but to build up, with evidences of gen- 
uine prosperity. In general intelligence, and culture, 
these people are correspondingly up-to-date; and though 
owning and occupying a little world of their own, they 
manage to keep well in touch with the bigger outside 
world and its doings. 

One church, Congregational, serves the isle and its 
people. The church is a neat and attractive structure. A 
hall used by the Knights of Maccabees, a fine school 
building, and a club house, occupied during the outing 
season by the "Up and Up" club of Cloveland, are prin- 
cipal of the public buildings. 

A lady of poetic imagination, who recently visited the 
isle, duly christened it, "The Gem of Lake Erie," and 
the denizens readily concede, and are of course proud of 
the title. The poem follows : 



THE GEM OP LAKE ERIE. 

(Tune: Columbia, Gem of the Ocean.) 
By Mrs. Alice Bartow Van Emmons. 



Oh, St. George is the Gem of Lake Erie ! 
The home of the good and the true, 
The Mecca of trav'lers aweary. 
My heart offers tribute to you. 
]\Iy tongue and my pen sing thy praises. 
As thy manifold beauties I view; 
Thou t'rt favored indeed of the Graces 
With thy skies and thy waters so blue. 



■158 IsJi SI. George eiiid Its Attmetioiis 

CHORUS : 

Thy skies and thy waters so blue! 
Thy skies and thy waters so blue ! 
Oh, St. George is the Gem of Lake Erie, 
The home of the good and the true ! 

II. 

When tired of the world's tribulations, 

And worn with its burdens and care ; 

I turn to thy true consolations, 

Full sure of a warm welcome there ; 

Where the sea and the sky blend in union. 

And the people in harmony dwell ; 

Where with friends I may hold sweet communion. 

Those who love me so truly and well. 

CHORUS: 

Oh, those hearts all so loyal and true ! 
Oh, those hearts all so loyal and true ! 
Oh, St. George is the Gem of Lake Erie, 
The home of the good and the true. 

III. 

Then hail to the Gem of Lake Erie ! 
St. George is the Isle of the Blest; 
With its people so brave and so cheery. 
Its vineyards and fruits of the best, 
May Love, Joy and Peace e'er attend thee, 
And fortune in kindliness smile ; 
May nothing molest or offend thee, 
beautiful, beautiful Isle ! 



Resources and Phenomenal Develop- 
ment of Kelley's Island. 



Ill common with the Bass Island group, that portion 
of land now known as Kelley's Island, at opening of the 
last century, appeared in all the untamed and romantic 
beauty of primitive wildness. 

Rock ribbed, and bay indented with magnificent 
forests of red cedar fringing its curving shore lines, and 
stretching inland to its center, the redskin, his squaw, and 
papooses then claimed the island as their own, and the 
picturesque canoe formed the only craft that cut the clear 
waters surrounding. About the year 1803, we are told, an 
adventurer, named Cunningham, found his way thither 
with a view to making the island his abode— the first white 
man, so far as known, to locate there. 

Cunningham figured as an Indian trader and as such 
catered to Indian tastes and requirements in the way of 
barter. He affiliated with them socially and adopted to a 
certain extent their modes of life, though instead of 
living in a wigwam, he is said to have built a commodious 
log cabin to which the red denizens of the cedar forest 
were invited to bring the furs and hides they had taken, 
together with stores of wild honey, jerked venison and like 
commodities. These were traded for blankets, beads, "fire- 
water," and other wares and merchandise of civilization. 
For a time. Trader Cunningham got along swimmingly 
with his patrons, the reds. He fiirted— it is supposed, with 
the dusky damsels met, mingled freely with hunters and 

(161) 



162 



Development of Kelley's Island 



warriors, sat in the glow of their campfires, and smoked 
with them the pipe of peace. 

Just what occurred to mar this picture of serenity 
does not appear at this late date; but Cunningham, it 




Bluffs 



seems, had trouble with the Indians. It is supposed that 
they tried to kill and to rob him. At any rate, there was a 
fight, in which one solitary white was matched against a 
whole raft of reds, with the very natural result that the 



Development of KeUey's Island 1(^3 

former was beaten and nearly killed. He lost all his goods 
and was driven from home, but escaped with his life in a 
canoe, by which he succeeded in reaching the Ohio Penin- 
sula. The injuries received by Cunningham proved fatal 
and he died soon after reaching that place. His name, and 
fame, survived him, however, for the island vvas long after- 
wards known as "Cunningham's Island," being recorded 
as such on geographical maps and marine charts. 

In 1810, two more adventurers — ^French Canadians — 
located on Cunningham's Island. Their names were Bebo 
and Poschile, and their occupation is supposed to have 
been hunting and trapping. As to hoAV they fared during 
the two years of their sojourn, no record has been 
furnished; but after the declaration of Vv'ar between the 
United States and Great Britain, and subsequent uprising 
of hostile Indians, these men were forced to flee for their 
lives, abandoning whatever interests they had there built 
up, to seek refuge on the mainland. 

During the War of 1812, Cunningham's Island was 
made a military rendezvous, Gen. Wm. H. Harrison — then 
commanding the army of the Northwest — having stationed 
on the west shore a detachment of soldiers for the purpose 
of watching the movements of British and Indians on the 
lake. As late as the year 1828, the ceJar tent stakes, 
marking the camping ground of this guard, still remained. 

After the Battle of Lake Erie, Col. C. S. Todd, aide- 
de-camp to Gen. Wm. H. Harrison, accompanied by one 
Major Hukell, was sent from Sandusky to ascertain re- 
sults. That a battle had been fought on Lake Erie be- 
tween the British and American squadrons, having been 
clearly evidenoed by the heavy cannonading heard in the 
vicinity of the islands lying to northwards. 

The open boat in which these two officers took passage 



164 



Development of Kelley's Island 



was caught in a violent gale and after suffering great 
exposure the boat and its occupants were blown ashore on 
Cunningham's Island, where for some time the party re- 
mained storm-bound. As a result of exposure on this oc- 
casion, Major Hukell contracted a heavy cold, lung 
trouble developing, from which he died the following 
winter, it is recorded, in Lexington, Kentucky. 

According to historians, the squadron of Com. Perry 
lay anchored for a time in the harbor south of Cunning- 
ham's Island and while there Perry received, on board his 
flagship, Gen. Harrison and Gens. Cass and Mc Arthur, 
who came to consult the naval commander concerning his 
plan of action. Perry's Victory, 1813. practically ended 
the war, and permanently settled the Indians, who skulked 
away in alarm after the defeat of their allies, and, so far 
as shown by authentic records, never again returned to 
island territory on sinister motives bent. 

AVith the passing of the red man, and his supremacy 




Steamer "VValk-in-the-Water" 



Development of Kelley's Ishnid 167 

on the lake islands, Cunningham's Island became the 
stamping ground for a new series of adventurers. 

In 1818, the " Walk-in-the- Water, " first steamer 
ever beheld on Lake Erie, cut a prominent figure in the 
history of Cunningham's Island. While looked upon with 
wonder akin to superstitious awe by the now pacified In- 
dians still lingering in the lake regions, the "Walk-in-the- 
Water" was regarded by white settlers of island and main- 
land, as a marvel of inventive genius, and as a most im- 
portant adjunct to commercial interests of the lake. 

A quaintly constructed craft was this steamer ; so 
strikingly quaint, in fact, that a duplicate thereof seen at 
the present day might be mistaken for a relic of the INIiddlr" 
Ages. 

A small colony had by this time settled on Cunning- 
ham's Island. To these settlers the pretentions of modern 
aristocracy were unknown, yet their cabins, nevertheless, 
were built of red cedar — this valuable timber being more 
plentiful on the island than that of any other kind. 

There were no docks at that period to facilitate the 
landing of vessels and the then reigning monarch of the 
isle, Killam by name, carried in his sail boat loads of red 
cedar to the "Walk-in-the-water, " while she lay at 
anchor oi¥ the island shores. In this way she took on board 
her cargo. Red cedar timber cut in lengths was also used 
to fire the steamer's engine, for in those days there was 
cedar ''to burn." The career of the "Walk-in-the 
Water" was however brief. After two years of service, 
she was wrecked and lost off Pt. Albino. This ruined the 
cedar trade at Cunningham's Island and disheartened 
Killam and his co-workers, who soon after left with all 
their belongings. 

Then followed a period of about six yeare during which 



168 D( rclupmcut of Kclhij's Island 

the island was destitute of any permanent inhabitants, 
though adventurers came and went. That some of these were 
lawless characters who there sought to bury from the world's 
observation their acts of criminality, is more than probable, 
as shown by a tragedy that occurred during this period, 
a review of which caused to contract with horror the spinal 
vertebrae of occupants who came after. 

The parties to this affair were known as Grummets 
and Barnum. These cojnpanions in solitude quarrelled. 
Bamum shot and killed Grummets, and disposed of the 
body by placing it in a leaky skiff and setting it adrift. 
The wind carried the boat out into the open lake, where it 
sank with its ghastly freight. 

Antedating this occurrence, according to local tradi- 
tion, an adventurer lived on the island with his wife and 
boy, the only inhabitants, but in midwinter, wife and 
child were suddenly stricken by death. The solitary 
mourner performed for them unaided the last sad rites, 
rounding w'ith his own hands their graves; after which, 
unable in his grief and loneliness to endure the spot, he 
left it, never to return. 

In 1826 Elisha Ellis and his wife effected a settlement 
on the island. A little later they were joined by Samuel 
Beardsley and wife. They occupied one house, and were 
the sole inhabitants up to 1828, when Mrs. Beardsley died. 
She was buried on the shore, but her grave was afterward 
washed away by the rising waters of the lake, with that of 
a young woman — one Mary Kellogg — who came to the 
island in 1829, died soon after and was beside Mrs. 
Beardsley. 

During the wanter of 1829 and '30, Mr. and Mrs. El- 
lis, Henry Elithorpe and an individual known as "Tinker 
Smith" formed, it is said, the total population of the 



Development of Kelleij's Island 169 

island. Tt was therefore a decided boom for the place when 
in the summer of 1830 three additional families moved 
thereon. 

Somewhere about the year 1833 a mimic lord, in the 
person of a French trapper, named Ben Napier, tried to 
appropriate the archipelago, or that portion at least in- 
cluded in Put-in-Bay and Kelley Islands. By what 
fancied right this pioneer squatter sought to assert and 
maintain his monarchical reign does not now appear^ 
suffice to say that he made himself very much at home and 
very numerous in both places, and gave the individuals 
who afterward came into possession of these islands a lot 
of trouble. 

A burly ruffian of the most pronounced type, Napier 
succeeded in terrorizing other pioneer dwellers, but failed 
in his apparent aim, that of driving them from the island. 

According to local legend, old Ben lived on the flesh 
of swine, fowls of the air and fish. The fowls and fish 
were supplied by the woods and waters, while the swine 
were bred in large droves by the squatter, and led a "root- 
hog-or-die" existence, fattening upon acorns and other 
forage or growing lean, hungry and savage when the de- 
sired grub was lacking. Whenever Ben wanted meat he 
climbed a tree, taking with him his gun, and ensconced 
among the branches awaited the appearance of these wild 
porkers, and when a drove came within range he blazed 
away at the largest and plumpest. He thus kept his table 
supplied with fresh pork cutlets, ham and spare ribs, and 
grew correspondingly fat and saucy; and neither by 
threats nor coaxing could he be induced to relinquish his 
luxurious mode of life, nor to depart from the island. 
Like the hogs which he ate, he became very pugnacious. 
He appropriated to himself in high-handed style the prop- 



170 Development of KeUeij's Island 

erty of his neighbors, and only by legal measures was he 
finally ousted. 

For the first time since its occupation by whites the 
island Avas then permanently settled, having in 1883 be- 
come after some litigation the property of Irad Kelley, of 
Cleveland, and Datus Kelley, of Rockport. 

With the days of primitive savagery and lawless 
piracy at an end, dawned a new era of individual but 
legalized prosperity. After its survey and final transfer, 
the island was rechristened and placed upon the record 
books as Kelley 's Island^ — a name which has become as 
widely known and as permanently established, as that of 
the family from which it was derived. 

Impressed with the belief that the place was destined 
to figure as a prominent commercial center, the Kelley 
brothers began at once making improvements in the way 
of dock building, to facilitate the landing of vessels, and 
shipment of building stone, lime, and red cedar, the island 
being rich in these natural products. They sought also 
to encourage an extension of its population by settlement 
of lands; and, with this object in view, placed on sale at 
fair prices lots and parcels of their possessions. Many 
purchases of homes was made and the island speedily be- 
came settled by a class of people whose chief characteris- 
tics were sagacity, industry, and thrift. 

In 1834, the Kelley brothers made large shipments jf 
limestone and red cedar from their rough, but strongly 
built, pier on North Bay, known as the "stone dock,'' 
near present site of the Lime & Trans'iort Company's 
wharves. 

True to their New England origin, the Kelley broth- 
ers, and their co-workers, made early provision for the 
proper education and training of the rising generation, 



Development of Kellcy's Island 



171 



by building a schoolhouse, and providing a suitable 
teacher. 

As time went by, Datus Kelley came to be recognized 
as patriarch of the island community. In every sense lie 
was public-spirited, and his generous hospitality, and in- 
numerable acts of kindness exercised towards his less 
fortunate neighbors, won for him a warm place in the 
hearts of all, and the attaching of his name to the island 
was thus made a fitting and well deserved honor. 




Pretty Bit of Kelley Island Shore 



Like her husband, the wife of Datus Kelley was 
known and loved for her many thoughtful deeds of kind- 
ness. In sickness and distress, her services were freely 
proffered, and to all of the settlers she was familiarly 
known as ''Aunt." Full of cpiaint and wise sayings, Mrs. 
Kelley proved an entertaining and agreeible companion 
both for husband and friends. 

In shaping island morals at this time, the influence 
of Datus Kelley formed an acknowledged factor. The en- 



172 



Development of Kdhij's Island 



couragement given by him to sobriety, and good citizen- 
ship, was shown by the fact that in addition to regular 
wages paid his employes, he gave to each man a bonus, or 
reward, for abstaining from intoxicating liquors. 

Up to the time of Datus Kelley's death, and covering 
a period of fifty years, not one ease of felony, or misde- 
meanor of any kind was known on the island — a most re- 
markable record. The island was remarkable also for the 
culture and intelligence of its people, even at its then 
early stage of development. 




Kelley Hall 



Among the benefactions of Datus Kelley was the 
building and presentation to the island people of an island 
public hall — a fine, commodious, stone-built structure, 
which will stand for years to come as a monument to the 
generosity of the builder. 

The mails at that period were very irregular and far 
between. Once a week, on an average, was as often as 



Development of Kelley's Island 173 

they could depend upon obtaining same. That it was ap- 
preciated when it did come, however, goes without saying. 

To take the place of news from abroad, and to satisfy 
the cravings of literary hunger, a literary society was 
organized and a local newspaper, called the "Islander," 
was issued weekly in connection with this society. The 
"Islander,"" was contributed to by young and old, proving 
neither a winter season 's freak, nor a summertime fancy ; 
but was continued right along for a period of fifteen years, 
and was really a marvel of erudition, its pages giving 
evidence of general culture, ease of expression, and a 
large variety of information along many lines. Today, 
there may be seen in the island public library several large 
bound volumes of the "Islander," one of the library as- 
sociation's most valued treasures. 

The population of Kelley's Island in 1840 was sixty- 
height people. 




steamboat Dock and Warehouse 



174 



Development of Kelley's IsJaiid 



The original log cabin of Datiis Kelley stood to west- 
ward of that now known as Division Street, on site occu- 
pied at present time by the residence of Elbert Hamilton. 

In 1843 Datus Kelley built a large frame dwelling 
near the steamboat landing, at which he entertained the 
many bass sportsmen who came around the islands to fish. 
To make more room for outside visitors, this structure was 
added to. In late years it became known as the "Island 
House," but was afterwards burned. 




Kelley Island Vineyards 



The later years of Datus Kelley's life were those of a 
student, it is recorded. He read extensively and wrote 
scientific and other articles for publication. 

The decease of Datus Kelley furnished occasion for 
many glowing tributes to his memory, offered by individ- 
uals of high character and influence — his friends in life. 
Irad Kelley also lived a useful and a worthy life, and was 
highly respected. 



Development of Kelley's Island 



175 



Kelley's Island ranks as largest of the lake group be- 
longing to "Uncle Sam." It lies in a southeasterly 
direction from Put-in-Bay and almost directly north of 
Sandusky. Its area is 2800 acres; its length of shore line 
about eighteen miles. 

Viewed at the present time, its bay indented shores 
and rock ribbed surface, diversified by vineyard, orchard, 
field, and truck-garden, afford ample stretches of pictur- 
esque and beautiful scenery. 

The forests of cedar long since disappeared before the 
woodman's ax. With them the trade in cedar wood be- 
came a reminiscence, but not until it had materially con- 
tributed to the wealth of the island inhabitants. An 
ample bay indenting the south shore affords protection 




Kelley Island Wine Cellars 



and anchorage to vessels passing up and down the lake 
and the docks and warehouses are filled with fruit in its 
season and other merchandise of various kinds. Cosy 
cottages and elegant residences have given place to log 
cabins and churches, schoolhouses, hotels, boarding cot- 
tages, and other public buildings have arisen to attest the 



176 Development of Kelley's Islanel 

growing prosperity. The population has increased until it 
numbers — according to its last census report — over 1000 
resident inhabitants, though this number is largely in- 
creased during the summer season. 

The culture of grapes and manufacture of wine are 
carried on extensively. 

Among horticulturists of prominence are mentioned 
the Kelleys, Carpenters, and many others. The storage 
capacity of the Kelley Island wine cellars is about one- 
half million gallons. 

Grape culture was introduced about the year 1842, 
the first acre being planted by Charles Carpenter, who 
came to the island from Norwich, Conn. 

There are four mercantile establishments, three of 
the number being situated on South Division Street, near 
the steamboat landing. The proprietors are Wm. Burger, 
Fred Elfers, and P. Murphy. A general supply store is 
kept at North Bay by the Lime & Transport Co. 

Of churches, there are but four : Congregational, Evan- 
gelical, Roman Catholic, Greek Catholic, and Reformed. 
The latter was organized in 1862 by Rev. Carl Kuss. Two 
of its charter members, Henry Elfers, and Wm. Becker, 
still survive. Its present pastor is Rev. Wm. Fritzbohn. 

The incorporated village also includes the entire is- 
land. James Hamilton is postmaster, having filled this 
position for a period of twelve years. He is also mayor. 
Other officers of the municipality at this time are : Clerk, 
F. J. Lange; Treasurer, Charles Seehalzer; Marshal, John 
Murphy ; Commissioner, Louis Smith ; JMembers of Council, 
Jno. Coutcher, Ed. Ward, Jno. Nuller, Jas. Seton, W. F. 
Becker, Roland Brown ; Assessor, Chas. Stokes. 

Fishing forms quite an extensive industry, pounds 
and trap nets being in the most general use. Lay Brothers, 



Development of KeUey's Island 177 

Dwelle Brothers, Fisher & Seymour,- Erne Brothers, and 
The Bruce Co. being among the firms employed. 

Of lake mariners, Kelley's Island has furnished her 
share. Capt. 0. E. ]\Ioore has been a siiling master for 
years; and Capt. E. R. Collins is reckoned among those 
who serve on the bridge and quarter-deck. 




On "Division" Street 

Capt. A. W. Dwelle, and Capt. Pellett, now deceased, 
were both well remembered marine men. The Library 
Association are justly proud of the public library estab- 
lished through their united efforts and with re son; for 
its volumes are many and well chosen, numbering about 
1500 books. A reading room is connected with library and a 
large patronage is extended. Ladies of the association are: 
i\Irs. A. W. Kelley, Mrs. T. C. Hamilton, Mrs. Elbert Hamil- 
ton, Mrs. Lester Carpenter, and ^liss Jennie Bristol. The 
Estes school building, erected in 1901 at a cost of $15,000. 



178 



Dcvclopmoit of Kdlci/'s Island 



is thoroughly modern in style, and equipment. The larger 
portion of funds used in its erection were donated by 
James Estes. Members of Board of Education are : Frank 
J. Hanser, Chas. See Holzer, Lester Carpenter, Henry 
Beatty, J. Gordon Griffin; Clerk, A. F. Elfers. Teachers 
for 1912 and 1913: W. E. Conkle, Supt. ; Paul Fischer 
Principal; Bertha Roberts, Elizabeth Pierce, Ruth 
Roswurm, Okla Riley. 

Like adjacent islands of the group, Kelley's Island 
has become well known and popular as a summering place. 
It is also noted for its interesting geological fo-rmations, 
as well as for its Indian antiquities, either of which would 
be sufficient in itself to render the island famous. A 
description of the former is elsewhere given in this volume 
under the heading: "Some Interesting Geological 
Features. ' ' 




Estes School Building 



Development of Kelley's Island 



179 



Concerning the latter, the researches of antiquarians 
liave resulted in some important discoveries. That the 
island formed a favored haunt of the red tribes is evi- 
denced by the ancient mounds, fortifications and other re- 
mains. 

The grounds now occupied by the residence of Addison 




Bathing at Kelley's Island — Photo by Niebergall 

Kelley are supposed to have formed anciently the site of 
an extensive Indian village; pottery, pipes and other 
articles, and implements of Indian manufacture, such as 
ancient grindstones, tomahawks and hatchets, being there 
found in abundance. 

Remains of earthworks are numerous, the most exten- 
sive being found on the Huntington property, inclosing 
an area of nearly seven acres. 

The most interesting relics of this vanished race, how- 
ever, take shape in what are known es "Inscription 
Rock" — ■ two in number — one of which, located on the 



180 



Development of KeUei/'s Island 



north shore, contains sculptured pipe-smoking Hgures. 
The second and most famous lies in the water's edge, near 
the steamboat wharves. The rock is 32 feet long, 21 wide, 
and rises about 11 feet above the water. It was originally 
discovered in 1883 by Charles Olmstead of Connecticut, 
and Daniel Kelley, son of Datus Kelley, while studying 
the glacial grooves. 




Inscription Rock 

Lieut. ]\Ieigs, who visited Kelley 's Island in 184-1, made 
an examination of them and reported to the department of 
Indian antiquities at Washington. On this representation, 
Col. Eastman, who had spent eight years among the Indians 
collecting antiquities, was sent to make drawings of the 
rock, concerning which it is authoritatively .stated as fol- 
lows: 

"It is part of the same stratification as the island 
from which it has been separated by lake action. The top 
presents a smooth and polished surface, like all the lime- 
stone of this section when the soil is removed, suggesting 



Development of Kelley's Island 181 

the idea of glacial action. Upon this the inscriptions are 
cut. The figures and devices are deeply sunk in the rock. * ' 
Schoolcraft's Indian Antiquities says, in reference to this 
rock : 

"It is by far the most extensive, best sculptured and 
best preserved inscription of the antiquarian period ever 
found in America. It is in the picture-graphic character 
of the natives. Its leading symbols are readily interpreted. 
The human figures, the pipe-smoking groups and other 
figures denote tribes, negotiations, crimes and turmoils 
which tell a story of thrilling interest connected with the 
occupation of this section by the Erics, of the coming of 
the Wyandots, of the final triumph of the Iroquois and 
flight of the people who have left their name on the lake. 
In 1851 drawings of these inscriptions were made by Col. 
Eastman, U. S. Army, who was detailed by the govern- 
ment at Washington to examine them, on the representa- 
tion of Gen. Meigs, who had previously examined them. 
Copies of the inscriptions were made and submitted to 
SJmigvaiik, an Indian learned in Indian picturegraphy, 
and who had interpreted prior inscriptions submitted to 
him." 

Through the aid of a chart kindly furnished the 
writer of this sketch by a lady resident of the island, many 
characters on the great rock were plainly deciphered, but 
the action of the elements and footsteps of the many ad- 
venturers and curio hunters who for years have made it 
the Mecca of their pilgrimages have worn its pictured 
surface ; and unless some means are taken for their restora- 
tion and preservation, these inscriptions will in time be 
obliterated. 

A celebrated "globe trotter" — Churchill, by name — 
who had traveled extensively through foreign lands, pro- 



182 



Development of Kelley's Island 



nounced these inscriptions as well executed, and as in- 
teresting as many of the world-famous inscriptions seen 
on Egyptian monuments. 

THE LIMESTONE INDUSTRY— SOME OF ITS IN- 
TERESTING AND PICTURESQUE FEATURES. 
By an odd combination of features, local, the Kelley 
Island atmosphere appears redolent of foreign sugges- 




Greek Catholic Church 



Development of Kelleij's Island 183 

tions — a fact noticed and sometimes commented on by 
visiting strangers. Contributing in part to this effect may 
be observed, in a glance over the island's central portion, 
wide vineyard lands in hnndred-acre stretches, with 
scarce a dwelling to be seen thereon, many of the owners 
after the manner of European landowners — preferring to 
live in the village portions strung thickly along the main 
island thoroughfares. Unlike the Bass Islands, hay and 
harvest fields also in limited extent may be seen. 

Passing along "Division" Street, which runs from the 
main steamer landing across the island to "North Bay," 
another object bearing a decidedly foreign earmark greets 
the observer. A church, it is, surmounted by a Greek 
cross. Planted in the ground near the structure, another 
cross of ornamental design rises higher than the building's 
roof, showing a figure of Christ nailed thereto, this shrine, 
or "holy place," reminding one of similar views in old 
world pictures. As they pas.s along the street, devout ad- 
herents of the Greek Catholic faith pause at this spot to 
repeat their silent prayers, as they bow before the imago. 
Further along "Division" Street — which forms a long 
drawn proposition, when you have to walk — ^the island 
cemetery is finally reached. With its green sward and 
flowers, its shrubbery and drooping trees, its artistic and 
costly monumental designs, the spot is one of rare beauty 
and attraction to lovers of "the quiet places.'' 

Attention is soon diverted, however, to the more 
humble portions of "God's acre," where rows of black 
crosses mark corresponding low mounds. Here rest the 
bones of Hun and Slav; of Portuguese, Italian, Sicilian, 
and other representatives of European peasantry. 

Nearing the shores of "North Bay," additional rep- 
resentatives of the foreign population are noted — for they 



184 Dcvclopmoit of Kelleij's Ishmd 

are not all dead, by any means, a large colony of these 
people edging the bay. Their unpretentious but substan- 
tial dwellings appear more American than the occulta nts, 
for they were built by the Kelley Islaod Lime & Transport 
Co., who employ these colonists to work the extensive 
limestone quarries. ]\Iost of the denizens met are women 
and children ; for the men are all busy in the quarries, at 
the stone docks, or on the railway lines connecting. Some 
of these women, and many of the children, appear in 
their bare feet on the street, and at the general merchan- 
dise store, kept by the stone company. The women, 
quaintly garbed in fabrics gaily fashioned from native 
I)rovincial models brought with them across the ocean, and 
with handkerchiefs of vari-colored silk adorning their 
heads, look pictnresciue, indeed. 

Prospecting with a camera, the writer encountered a 
large group of colony children. They were of all ages 
between three and eight years. One or two only of the 
number could speak English. The others spoke a divei-- 
sity of tongues and apparently could not understand each 
other. Plainly, and quaintly clad, and quite bashful were 
these tots, though one of the number assumed an aii- of 
boldness. The camera greatly excited their curiosity, but 
when turned towards them, in an effort to take their 
pictures, they ran away in affright. Women, with small 
children in arms, peered curiously also from doors and 
windows, on this occasion, anxious to see what was going 
on. Entering their homes, the sight of objects novel and 
far-fetched continues the suggestion of foreign associa- 
tions. Quaint old clocks, odd pieces of kitchen ware, and 
strange looking fabrics, are there. 

"Holy pictures" in bright colors and curiously carveii 
frames, ancient-appearing crucitixes, and bric-a-brac in- 



Devdopmoif of Kcllcy's Idand 183 

herited from fathers, and grardfathers, are religiously 
preserved. Some of these homes a:e poor, and perhaps 
untidy; others, though plain, are clean and neat, and give 
evidence of thrift. jMost of these people live separate from 
the rest of the island population, all of the male portion 
being employed in the quarries during the summer. In 
early winter many of them return to their native lands, 
coming again in the spring. Men without families, or 
whose families are still across the big waters, belong to 
this class. Some of those who settled on the island, years 
ago, have now become fully Americanized and are known 
as intelligent and worthy citizens. 

As to nationalities, the island colony consists of Poles, 
Slavs, iMacedonians, Hungarians, Bulgarians, Sicilians, 
Italians, and Portuguese. 

Outside of these colonists, the present day population 
— quoting the words of one of its residents — represents 
"English, Irish, and German, though Americans lead." 
As to intelligence and good citizenship, it is concede.!, 
however, that the three former compare favorably with 
the last named. The trade in limestone forms the most 
extensive and important of the island's modern industries. 
The Kelley Island Lime & Transport Co. is an incorporated 
body, M-ith a capital of $6,000,000. Its main office is lo- 
cated in Cleveland, with branch offices at Kelley 's Island, 
Marblehead, Clay Center, Ohio, Akron, N. Y.. Sandusky, 
Ohio, and Duluth, Minn. Its most prominent officials are 
Jno. A. Kling, of Cleveland, who is President and General 
Manager and W. A. Pardee, of Cleveland, Secretary and 
Treasurer. This company own about 1000 acres of stone 
lands at Kelley 's Island. There are three general quar- 
ries — "North," "South" and "West." These again are 
subdivided, the stone in each separate division slightly 



186 



Development of Kellei/'s Island 




North Quarry 



differing in quality. While "North Quarry" embraces the 
largest area, containing about fifty acres, the "South" 
takes precedence as the oldest, having been opened in 1850 
■ — Charles Carpenter, Geo. Kelley, Geo. P. Huntington, and 
K. Kelley being among its early promoters. 

The quarries form one of Kelley 's staple wonders, the 
island itself being in fact a vast and inexhaustible quarry. 

Four docks lying on the north, west, and south shores, 
are owned by the company and afford ample facilities for 
the loading of vessels with stone, one of these — a concrete 
"pocket" dock — proving an especial utility, sailing vessels, 
barges, and steamers of 8,000 to 10,000 tons capacity being 
loaded therefrom. 

A railway system connects all these quarries, and 
docks and light engines, drawing ten or a dozen cars, 
transport the stone to the latter. In noise, and importance, 
these little engines resemble the small but mighty harbor 
tug. They draw heavy loads and are very busy. The rail- 



Development of Kelley's Island 187 

^x?^y system comprises several miles of track, eight locomo- 
tives and about 150 cars. Elevated piers, with railway 
tracks running along their tops, facilitate the deposit of 
stone. 

As to working machinery, the company own two stone- 
crushing plants, by means of which "flux" stone is made 
ready for shipment. This is the product from which lime 
is manufactured. This grade of stone is shipped by ves- 
sel cargoes to Cleveland, Buti'alo, Chicago, and Lake 
Superior ports. 

Four steam shovels are used in connection with the 
crushing plants. Eight large derricks are also employed 
in loading the big sections of stone blasted from their solid 
beds. Some of these sections weigh from one to twelve 
tons each. This stone is largely used in the building of 
government piers, and breakwaters for protection of har- 
bors. "Traveling cranes" are also used in quarr>" work. 

Hand-broken lime rock is shipped to the company's 
extensive kilns at Duluth, there to be burned into lime. 
Shipments of this stone are also made to Sandusky. 

About 400 men are at present employed in the island 
quarries. A fleet of ten vessels, consisting of wooden and 
steel barges, tugs, steamers, and sail-rigged craft, are 
owned by the company, and used for the transportation 
of limestone. 

The average depth reached in quarry w^orking is 
about forty feet, quality of stone varying according to 
position and locality. The second strata contains the grade 
generally used for lime burning and building purposes. 
The third layer furnishes the material for government 
work. 



188 Development of KeUey's Island 

In former years there were sixteen kilns operated near 
docks at North Bay. When running at full capacity, 
these kilns produced 1600 barrels of lime per day. The 
company then employed about 500 men and fifty horse"?. 
Finding it cheaper and more converiient to sliip the stone, 
and to burn the lime at their plants in Duluth, the island 
kilns were abandoned and subsequently torn down. Bar- 
rels for lime shipment were formerly made by the com- 
pany — cooper shops for this purpose being maintained. 

Centering the colony of quarry workers at North Bay, 
the Lime & Transport Co.'s general store, operated for the 
benefit of their employes, does quite a flourishing business, 
under the supervision of Hugh C. Brennen, superintendent 
at main office of the Kelley Island branch. 

Some interesting geological specimens, in the way of 
fossils, are frequently unearthed ; while the perfect and 
extensive outcroppings of gaeiated rock, here seen, form 
a rare series of scientific marvels such as can scarce be 
duplicated throughout the United States. 

A rival company own quite extensive tracts of stona 
land on the island, but no quarries have yet l)een opened 
on these holdings. 




Sunset on Lake Erie — Photo by Carl Oelschlager 



Summering at an Island liesort. 



A visitor to Piit-iu-Bay thus comments on his impres 
sions : 

"There is a rare, tender beauty about these islands 
at times that touches the heart, and enkindles sentiment. 
Sitting here alone late in the night, I close my eyes and 
recall the dreamy beauty of floating clouds, glimpses of 
green islands far away, and of soft, pure airs floating, as 
it were, from Paradise. 




A Model Summer Cottage — Photo by O. Herbster 

"The scene at sunset, beautiful and as glorious as if 
the gates of the Celestial country had been opened, and I 
wonder if anything will ever seem so lovely to me again. 

(190) 



Summering at an Island Besort 



191 



A fragment of mythology embodied in an old poem comes 
to me. Do you remember it? 

"The islands of the blest, they say, 

The islands of the blest, 

Are peaceful, and happy by night and day, 

Far away in the Golden West." 

It has been said that the true poet is "born, not 
made." The same may be said of the ideal summer resort. 
Put-in-Bay figured as a born and bred summering place 
before hotel or cottage ever appeared upon her shores. 

Natural, historical, geological, poetical features of in- 
terest formed some of the drawing cards that brought 
strangers and tourists to this, the central gem of the 
emerald cluster, while yet the log cabin of the pioneer 




'A Cottage by the Sea" 



192 



SiDiDiiniiifi (if ail Ixhiiid L'isioi'i 



afforded them the only available hospitality. The crowds 
came tirst; the hostelries followed as an after-eonsidera- 
tion to accommodate the crowds. 

Interest in Put-in-Bay, spreading rapidly from the 
first, has grown year by year, until with each return of the 
outing season, thousands of patrons, forming an endless 
concourse, wend their way to Put-in-Bay, from points 
covering practically every portion of the United States. 
Tourists from foreign lands are also freiiuent. 




Steamers of the D. & C. and T. & C. Lines 

As viewed during the outing season, a more lively 
place would be hard to find that the little center, locally 
known as the "Bay," which, notwithstanding its incor- 
poration as "Put-in-Bay village," is never so alluded t(* 
excepting in matters legal, municipal, or political. 



Summcrhifj af an Island Bcsort 



193 



Ax the "Bay," on almost any day during the season, 
may be had views of life as it appears at a summer resort, 
interesting alike to sightseekers, lovers of gaiety, observers 
of fashinn's fads, and doubly interesting to the philosoph- 
ical student of human nature. 




Excursionists Landing at Fox's Docks 



The arrival at about the same hour, and landing at 
Fox's wharves, of the large and splendid excursion 
steamers of the D. & C. and C. & T. lines from Cleveland, 
Toledo, and Detroit, forms an impressive spectacle. The 
black hull of each big craft, from hurricane deck to main, 
swarm with passengers and mingling streams of humanity 
pour steadily from gang planks to piers. The throng is 
largely augmented by the arrival in still larger numbers 
of passengers on board the new steamer, ''Put-in-Bay, " the 
island's favored namesake, which, in carrying capacity, 
outrivals even that of the largest D. & C. line passenger 
steamers. A six decker, the "Put-in-Bay" is a marvel of 
beauty and strength. The steamer is sumptuously deco- 



194 



Sunimci i))g at an Island Resort 



rated as to interior iiiiishings and magnificently appointed. 
The "Put-in-Bay" is fully equipped with every modern 
appliance conducive to the safety and comfort of her 
patrons, and is without doubt the finest passenger steamer 
afloat on the Great Lakes. She is commanded by Capt. 
Arthur Fox, former master of the "Str. Frank E. Kirby," 
and is well known as a careful, courageous, and trust- 
worthy seaman. 

Still further increased are the crowds, when on arrival 
of other island steamers, including the ' ' Arrow. " " Kirby, ' ' 




Capt. Arthur Fox of "Str. Put-in-Bay" 



Su))imcriii(j at an Island h'csort 197 

"Olcott," "Tourist," and "Falcon," at the Put-in-Bay 
wharves, fresh streams of humanity pour shoreward. 

With an interested throng of spectators in waiting; 
the flags and handkerchiefs aflutter; the flash of gilded 
badges and uniforms; the lusty hurrahs mingled with 
vociferations of hotel and restaurant criers, seen and 
heard amidst a flourish of whistles ; bursts of band music, 
and pouring smoke clouds from the great steamers, the 
scene is confusing, but inspiring. The on-surging 
crowds set the observer thinking, until Tennyson's 
"Brook" and the human stream get hopelessly jumbled. 

"For men may come and men may go, 
But I go on forever." 








Hailing as do these excursions from various portions 
of the country, each representative party has its special 
characteristics, its peculiarities of dress, manners and 
general makeup. Cleveland and Detroit crowds, for 
instance, bear with them an atmosphere redolent of teem- 



198 



Summering at (oi island Ecsort 



ing streets and busy marts ; of dim courts and gilded 
palaces. Blank, hlase, individuals ; women with inartistic 
touches of powder on their cheeks, and a proclivity for 
loudness; merchants, office clerks, and salesmen; mechan- 
ics and artisans, and the representatives of organizations 
civic, military, social, and religious, are a part of the big 
city excursion — for a glance over the throng reveals un- 
mistakably the half-concealed secret of individual 
character, origin, occupation, and belonging. 




Cottage on "Victory" Bay 



In excursions from the extensive farming districts of 
Ohio and Michigan figures conspicuously the knight of the 
plow and pruning hook. Bronzed hands and a counte- 







1. 



■tf^^- 



"Steamer Arrow' 




Eugene McFall, Manager of Sandusky & Island Steamboat Line 



202 Summering at an IsJa)id Resort 

nance ruddy and honest are his. Hints of live stock, of 
stables and country mud may be gathered from his ap- 
pearance. There is a lingering suspicion of hayseed upon 
his coat collar, and a suggestion of horse hair clings to his 
Kentucky jeans. At his side, in fluffy lawn and bright-rib- 
boned hat, appears the rustic belle, with eyes like dew 
spangles, cheeks that suggest the pinks and peonies of 
country gardens, and an atmosphere about her of shy- 
ness and sweet simplicity born of country seclusion. 

Figuring prominently in the local service of the 
islands, "Str. Arrow" is to the inhabitants an acknowl- 
edged favorite and "standby," her patrons including 
denizens of the three Bass Islands and Kelley's. As her 
name indicates, this steamer is built for speed, gliding 
with an arrowlike directness and a yacht-like speed. Her 
mahogany finished cabins are decorated in the most artistic 
manner with paintings, and frescoes, and comfortably and 
luxuriantly furnished. In addition to the running of big 
excursions during the summer outing season, the "Arrow" 
takes care of the larger proportion of local freight ship- 
ments between the islands and Sanduskj^, including large 
fruit consignments. These commercial interests are shared 
by "Str. Kirby, " though business of the latter connects 
more directly with Detroit. The "Arrow's" present com- 
mander is Capt. Harry Tyrie, a seaman staunch and 
trusty; First Officer, 0. E. Moore; Chief Engineer, Wm. 
Quick; Second Engineer, Stanley Wires; Purser, E. M. 
McFall; Assistant Clerk and Check Room Incumbent, 
for a period of twenty-five years, the name of "Billy" 
Guckert is familiar to all who have been accustomed to 
take trips on the "Arrow." 



Summering at an Island Resort 



203 




"Steamer Frank E. Kirby" 

Known as the "Greyhound," or "flier" of the lakes, 
"Str. Kirby" cuts quite a figure on marine records, though 
latterly eclipsed (partially) by the recent debut of the 
palace steamer "Put-in-Bay. " Thoroughly seaworthy, as 
she is handsome in appearance, the " Kirby 's" cabins vie 
with the "Arrow's" in decorative elegance. Capt. Paul 







'Steamer Olcott" 



204 



Summering at an Island Resort 



WMs iiuustoi" of the "Kirby" diiriro' tlic sunnner; Capt. 
Artlinr Fox during the fall; Firs!: Officer, Carl Antone; 
Engineer Fi-ed Steur : l^nser, A. R. Bruce. 




Capt. Jay C. Fox 

"Str. Oleott, " oiigiually the " Ijakeside, " was built 
for the double purpose of a summer excursion steamer and 
an ice breakej- in winter and early spring, when the chan- 
nels are barracaded with ice fields. She is steel built, and 
otherwise strongly fortified for her special and arduous 
work. Her cabins are eonnnodious, comfortable, and at- 
tractive. Capt. J. C. Fox — well knowir in marine circles — 
is master of the "Oleott." 

The "Falcon," a small hut trim and natty steamer, 
connects between Pt. Clinton, Catawba Island, Middle 
Bass, and Put-in-Bay. 

Strs. "Grandon" "Roper" and "Tourist" belong 





re T3 E 
U- C - 
o re -I 



o E 




Doller's Boat House 




View at Deisler's Bathing Beach 



208 



Sum))} fling of an Txlaiid Ersort 



also to the island fleet, engaging' in miseeUaneons service 
among the islands, both as carriers and passenger steamers. 

AVhether as season guests, or as sojourners for a week, 
or only a day, summer visitors all come for pleasure, and 
many are successful in finding this widely sought treasui'e. 
The observer wonders, nevertheless, \\hether all the ap- 
parent gaiety is real, or only assumed for the purpose of 
disguising corroding care. 

Having partaken of their dainty lunches spread upon 
the table in "Perry" Park, or of more sumptuous colla- 
tions served at "Bay" hotels, ard restaurant?, excursion- 




A Trio of Summer Girls 



ists amuse themselves according to individual inclination. 
Those who take kindly to water indulge a fancy for boat- 
ing and fishing. On sultry afternoons, the bathing houses 



Summering at (ui Island Resort 



211 



at Deisler's bathing beach draw big crowds of bathers and 
spectators. The latter gather on the board walk and tree- 
shaded platform, there to sit and watch the bathers in 
the water, or coasting the toboggan slide; there also to 
enjoy the cool lake breeze and to list to the music of wave- 
lets a-ripple over dripping sands. 

In common with most summer resorts, "spooning," 
and tlirting are freely indulged in at the "Bay." Hotel 
orchestras fill the air with enlivening strains, and waltzers 
gather for the mazy whirl. The new colonial dance hall 
attracts many young people and some of the older. Many 
couples occupy the floor. Others go there to hear the music 
and watch the dancers, to sip "Budweiser, " or to sample 
the island wines afforded. 

Children find a staple attraction in the "merry-go- 
round," and are eager to mount some of the gay liveried 
horses, stags, lions, camels or leopards that chase each other 
round the sawdust ring. A ramble along the beach with 
sand shovel and pail forms a pleasing diversion also for 
the "kids." 




Sightseeing in Automobiles 



2U 



SunniK j iiKj of (III Jshnid Rcsoif 



The "Bay" souveuir stands and novelty bazaars form 
a never-ending source of attraction to both young and old. 
Curios of every description, gathered from all parts of 
the world, are there displayed, together with every con- 
ceivable article and device of an interesting, amusing, or 
ornamental character. The average souvenir bazaar 
comprises indeed a museum in itself. Such for example 
is the establishment of the Herbster Brothers, adepts at 
burnt leather, and wood work ; photographers, decorators, 
designers, and natural artists generally. Eschewing "Bay" 
amusements, sightseeing in an automobile is a pastime in 
high favor with very many. Visits to the caves and 
Victory Park; to the lighthouse station on "Parker's 
Point,' ' and to the state and United States fish hatcheries 
on "Peach Point," fill out quite a bill of attractions along 
the automobile line. 

One of the most brilliant events of the season at the 
"Bay" is the Inter-Lake Yacht Kegatta. The gathering of 
the regatta fleet undei* the lee of Gibraltar Island, and 
the welcoming of each individual ypcht as it arrives, is 




The Extremity of "Peach Point' 



Summering at an Island Resort 



213 



keenly enjoyed both by members and onlookers. To say 
that the great assemblage of sail and steam yachts and 
power boats forms a magnificent sight but half expresses 
the idea. 

Under full canvas, with a myriad of white wings 
spread to catch the breeze, and every flag aflap, the scene 
is truly inspiring, though beautiful in repose, as well as 
in motion, appear the yachts. 

Just before the sunset gun salutes the departing day 
is a good time to view them. With their burnished sides 
and metal trimmings, aflash in the strong light, and every 
yacht dressed in full suite of signal and other flags, the 




Yachting on the Bay 



214 SunuiK riiKj at an Island Resort 

glowing si)k'ndoi' aud color effect are brilliant beyond 
description. 

Though at rest, there's plenty of life, however, in an 
anchored fleet, for skiff, yawl and launch are filled with 
gay parties, who come and go, and the sound of music, 
tooting horns, and call of the yachtsmen, make things 
lively, though many of them are ashore at this hour, and 
wdth ladies and visiting friends crowd the piers and prome- 
nades. 

An entertaining feature on the yachtsmen's program, 
is the illumination and fireworks display. 

Quite a study in scientific boat-building, and modern 
invention generally is furnished by the many different 
styles of yachts, launches, and motor boats seen at the re- 
gatta. Some of these craft owaied by millionaire sports- 
men are costly, and exquisite pieces of workmanship. 

A favorite summering place for yachting parties, and 
others, is the new hotel, "Bayview," so named because of 
its near, and commanding view of bay and harbor, and of 
the yachts and shipping generally at anchor beneith rocky 
Gibraltar Island. Up-to-date in all its appointments is 
this hotel, affording excellent meals and good service. A 
nearby dock with boats and a launch are at the disposal 
of visitors; the grounds are ample and well kept and sum- 
mer life at "Bayview" glides pleasantly. Its proprietor 
and manager is known familiarly as Jack "Day.'' 

Similiarly situated on "Riveria" Boulevard h "Eagle 
Cottage,'' well known to a large patronage. Bathing and 
boating facilities are afforded, together with good meals 
and service. "Eagle Cottage" is conducted under the 
management of the ]\Iagle and Bruce families. 

"Beebe Cottage," home of Mrs. Henry Beebe, for 
manv vears hostess of the "Beebe House," forms yet 



Summering at an Jslojid Fcsorf 



215 



another favored place for lovers of aquatic delights', and a 
pleasing location. The cottage is known and admired for 
its beautiful grounds, and fine view of bay and islands. 
Its nearness to the D. & C. line wharves, and to the site of 
the Perry ^Memorial, also combine to render it an attractive 
resort. 




"Beebe Cottage" 



When vineyard and orchard lands are thrifty with 
tender fruits, and foliage, and every shore stretch and 
creviced rock is exuberant with wild vegetation, then, too, 
the deep cool shadows of grove, and forest belt invite the 
summer loiterer. Summer balm and beauty, such as envi- 
rons the Erie isles, renders life under canvas dreamlike, 
and romantic. 

In hammock reclining, with the zephyr's breath soft 
upon the cheek, 'tis Heaven to swing, and doze. 

There is lots of romance, too, in a camp by moonlight 
when a soft splendor bathes lake and land, and silver pen- 
cils penetrate the dim forest. From out the twinkling 



216 



Summering at an Island Besort 



firmament the gazer may then single his star of destiny, 
and the vocalist afloat upon the waters pour forth his 
sonl to the click of row-locks. All this the average camper 
duly assimilates. 

Life in camp brings the individual into close com- 
munion with nature, enlarges his ide s and makes him 
healthy and happy. Bugs, ants, spiders and June flies 
dismay him not, and when fairly filled up on poetry and 
romance he may have recourse to other amusements, such 
as rowing, wrestling, bathing, foot-balling, love-making 
and yarn spinning. That the crew of every passing craft 
many know how extravagantly happy he feels, the summer 
nomad explodes, by way of salutation, gun powder and 
torpedoes in endless quantities, and shouts himself hoarse, 
forcibly expressing thereby his iriepiessible j llity. 




Group of Summer Cottages on "Peach Point" — Photo by Author 



Summering at ax Island Resort 217 

The deiiixens of summer camps hail ir.ainly from lake 
and inland town and city, and the change from interminable 
walls and crowded streets with their inevitable heat, dust, 
dirt and discomfort, to the breezy haunts of island shores 
is novel. 

It is well along toward forty years since the "banner" 
regiment of Ohio (7th 0. V. I.) chose Put-in-Bay as the 
favorite location of its annual reunions. The organiza- 
tion was then in full flower of military glory, having won 
distinction by heroic service in many of the fiercest fought 
battles of the civil war. 

Many a gallant member of its rank and file had gone 
down in the smoke and carnage of Gettysburg and Look- 
out Mountain, but this served only to draw the survivojs 
closer together. Closing up the places made vacant by 
confederate bullets, they appeared in solid phalanx and a 
finer set of men or a more thoroughly seasoned body of 
troops probably never carried arms. 

A strip of forest fringing lightly the breeziest portion 
of East Point's breezy shore was the site selected by the 
regiment association for their camp grounds. An old but 
strong and ample pier built of timber and stone and 
locally known as the "Morrison dock," juts out into the 
lake from this point. Limpidly clear channel waters wash 
the bases of broken and fallen lime rocks, and in stormy 
weather beat frantically the sheer pictured faces of the 
lime rock, cliffs above. Wild vines and mouses cling to 
these rockv summits and cedars trail their greenery iar 
down the sides in a most enchanting fashion. Here the 
veterans pitched their tents and here once more unfnrled 
the' shredded and smokestained battle flags under which 
they had fought. Beside these hung the beautiful white 
silken banner presented by women of Ohio as a mark of 



218 



SuiniiK riiKj of (III Island E(so)i 



recognition and appreciation of the regnnent's gallant 
services in the field. Accompanied by families and friends 
they came, heralded by the beat of drums and with 
the martial fire, freshly kindled, coursing through their 
veins. Their arrival at the Bay went down upon record as 
a great event for the island; and reporters and news cor- 
respondents, representing leading city newspapers, were de- 
tailed by their superiors to furnish daily write-up of the 
camp doings. Gloriously good times were enjoyed en the 
occasion by the regiment people. So charmed indeed were 
they with the beauty spot upon which they had alighted, that 
they came again and again, their attachment for the place 
•and for each other growing apace, until years lengthened 
into decades, and the veterans' locks turned from black to 
gray. 




Veterans in Camp 



SuiniiK I lii(j (if an Ishiiid Resort 2J9 

The one sad feature of these reunions took shape in 
the annual revision of the camp roster. Dropping out one 
by one in response to Death's roll-call, the veteran band 
grew smaller in numbers year by year, until only the 
"rear guard'' was left. To these veterans, East Point's 
woody shores had become hallowed ground, so rendered 
by memories of other meets, and of other eamp fires, about 
which they had gathered with comrades now departed. 

Again they sang with renewed fervor and added 
significance the song learned as youths so long ago by 
Southern camp fires : 

"We're tenting to-night on the old camp ground. 

Give us a song to cheer 

Our weary hearts, a song of home; 

And the friends we love so dear. 

Tenting to-night, tenting to-night, 
Tenting on the old camp ground." 

They lingered sadly, loath to say adieu, there living 
over again the happy, old days. In turn the "read guard*' 
then dwindled, until at the present date not enough re- 
mains of the original organization to hold an annual en- 
campment. 

Weather-beaten, and deserted, the building that 
formerly served as a part of their commissary depart- 
ment still stands, and in its suggestions there is something 
pathetic. Forever stilled is the veteran's song — only the 
winds and waves on that lovely "East Point" shore echo 
and re-echo the refrain — 

"Dying to-night, dying to-night. 
Dying on the old camp ground." 



The Romantic Shores From Which 

Commodore Perry's Sliips 

Took Ballast. 



The first historical event of importance connected with 
"Ballast" Island, of which record has been made, was that 
bearing npon the origin of its name. 

From the above record, it appears that when Perry 
set out to lick the British, he sailed for upper Lake Erie, 
and on reaching the islands looked about for a place to 
anchor his vessels — a place such as would afford protection 
from possible storms, as well as to screen them from ob- 
servation, while the Commodore and his gallant marines 
waited and watched for the Johnny Red Coats. 

Sighting an ample bay that indented one of the larger 
islands, its outer rim sheltered by the shores of a smaller 
isle, and a projecting point, the Commodore wisely decided 
to put in there with his fleet. Prior to so doing, howbeit,, 
his attention was attracted toward the shores of another 
small island, near which his ships were cruising. Its 
storm-tumbled beach, rough with gravel stone, and huge 
boulders, suggested an idea — "Why not use some of these 
boulders as ballast for his ships?" 

With no especial cargo, these vessels carried little of 
weight besides their respective crews of tars and marines, 
an array of mounted cannon, a few piles of cannon balls, 
powder magazines, and pork barrels. 

The boulders were suggested as the very thing needed 
to correct the cork-like tendency of these newly launched 

(220) 



Shores from WJiich Perrij Tool- Ballast 223 

craft; and as the deep waters around the isle permitted a 
near approach, orders were given the sailing masters and 
men to ship as large a quantity of these boulders as might 
be needed to properly ballast the fleet. 

Figuring thus in the first, and probably one of the 
most important maneuvers preliminary to the engagement 
of our fleet with that of the British, the romantic isle ac- 
quired the name that it now bears. 

Some thirty-five years ago, "Ballast" Island was the 
property of one "Lem'' Brown, an individual who figured 
as a pound fisherman, and as a land speculator and 
promoter. 

Though having but a single hermit dweller at that 
time — an old man known as "Uncle Jimmy" — the island 
formed during the fishing season a rendezvous for pound- 
men and gillnetters. 

"Uncle Jimmy" was a bachelor, and though loving 
the peacefulness of solitude, he was mild tempered, and 
kindly disposed toward any and all whom he chanced to 
meet. 

At the period when he first took up his abode on Bal- 
last Island, and for many years afterwards, his weather 
beaten cabin was the only human habitation there exist- 
ing, save the wide structure used by gillnetters. His only 
companions were the proverbial dog and cat, which found a 
snug abiding place beneath his roof, and a horse and cow 
sheltered in a roughly improvised stable. A portion oF 
the island was cleared land, afit'ording opportunity for til- 
lage and pasturage. The remainder formed a picturesque 
tangle of basswood and elm, cedar growths, wdld grape 
vines and other undomesticated shrubbery. Eagles built 
their nests undisturbed in the tall trees; and when the 
heavens were black with clouds and storms swept by, mad 



22i Shores from WlilcJi Pcrrii Tool,- Ballast 

Avith delight sea gulls screamed, and plunged into the 
breakers that whitened on the reef. Waves mounted the 
rocky walls of weather-ward shores, flinging foam flecks 
into overhanging boughs and filling caverned niches w^ith 
a bellowing thunder. "With spring time came troops of 
the scarlet-winged blackbird, thrush, and whip-poor-will, 
the wood was resonant with song, while the turf formed 
a carpet of wild wood bloom. Summer unveiled pictures 
of gold, and the trees covered with abundant foliage cast 
over the cabin roof shadows cool and deep. The birds 
nested, and short winged fledgelings hopped aliout on the 
mossy ridge pole chirping their delight. 

With fading summer, autumnal fires kindled the 
maples until they flamed with scarlet and gold. Sumachs 
reddened and wild grapes purpled on the vines. Winter 
bared the trees of all save empty nests. Dismantled vines 
swung listless. The Canadian blasts swept down flurries 
of snow, and rigid ice plains glistened where blue waves had 
dashed. Such were the scenes which environed this soli- 
tary but charming retreat. 

Excepting when a party of fishermen or pleasure 
seekers beached their boats upon the gravelled shore, or 
when the owner came to look after the place, few changes 
save those wrought by the changing seasons varied the 
monotony of the hermit's life. Having voluntarily chosen 
this mode of existence, however, "Uncle Jimmy" was 
presumably satisfied with his choice, finding in solitude a 
species of happiness unattainable elsewhere. 

As years went by and the natural attractions of the 
archipelago came to be more and more appreciated by 
visitors from abroad, Ballast Island was purcha-ed by 
city capitalists. A club house and numerous cottages were 
built, and in a little wliile our hero found himself sur- 



Shores from Which Perry Tool- BtiUast 225 

roiuuled by gay crowds from the very ceuter of city life 
and fashion. This innovation mnst have cost the old man 
some pangs of bitterness, bnt the invaders were kindly 
disj^osed toward their predecessor, placing npon him but 
few restrictions. "Warmed by courteous treatment the old 
man exhibited so many good traits, that he eventually be- 
came a great favorite among guests during their summer 
sojourn at the island 

"Uncle Jimmy" had been accustomed to procuring 
supplies, consisting of provision, wearing apparel, and 
notions, in the shops and stores of Put-in-Bay, rowing 
across the channel in a small boat and carrying with him — 
by way of barter — cat-fish, which he had taken on his hooks, 
or products of the soil. His wants, being few and simple, 
were fully supplied in this way and these trips to the 
"Bay" were said to have been his only excursions. For 
years he had not set foot on any of the steamers which 
constantly plied between island and mainland. One day, 
however, seized by some unaccountable impulse, or driven 
by some unusual business transactions, "Uncle Jimmy" 
boarded one of the island steamers for Sandusky. 

Commanded by a throughbred captain who knew and 
could handle her as deftly as a lady handles a fan, this 
staunch steamer had for years made her accustomed trips 
day after day. 

Being thoroughly trustworthy, and on that beautiful 
morning when "Uncle Jimmy" leaned over the railing 
and gazed upon the fast receding shores of Ballast Island, 
his mind as calm and unrufifed as the sti!l blue waters, 
nor among the passengers was there any premonition of 
danger. However, in the afternoon of that day people of 
the surrounding islands were startled by a jarring report 
which came echoing over intervening miles of water. 



226 Shores from Which Fcvnj Tool- Bnllast 

Later a cablegram received at Put-in-Bay announced 
the blowing up of the island steamer. "Nearly all on 
board are injured or killed outright," read the message. 

At Sandusky the wharves wore black with crowds of 
people when the wrecked steamer was towed back to the 
harbor from whence she had departed but an hour before. 

.Scalded, blistered, disfigured by escaping steam, the 
dead and disabled were carried ashore. Among the 
number was "Uncle Jimmy," not dead, but scalded al- 
most beyond the consciousness of pain. All was done that 
human skill could do to kindle anew the failing life spark, 
but to no purpose, and one night a clergyman summoned 
to his bedside administered the holy sacrament, and while 
a prayer breathed from the lips of the dying man, the 
failing eyes fastened upon the crucifix, held before him, 
and so remained until the light in them faded — a life 
unobtrusive, yet full of ui:spoken pathos, was ended. 

The remains were conveyed for interment to the little 
burial ground at Put-in-Bay. The deceased was without 
relatives to attend him in his last moments, or to direct 
his final obsequies, but among the Ballast Island summer 
patrons were found friends w^ho, though representatives of 
wealth and social position, esteemed it a privilege to 
gather at the grave of the humble hermit, to scatter choice 
flowers about the casket, and to mingle tears of tenderness 
and sympathy with the earth that fell upon it. 

Among these friends was a prominent representative 
of Ballast resort, by whom a slab of solid marble was after- 
wards placed above the mound. Upon it the visitor who 
may chance to wander through the beautiful and pictur- 
esque island cemetery may read: "To the Memoi'v of 
Uncle Jimmy of Ballast Island. Erected by His Friend, 
George AA^. Gardner." 



Shores from 1V///r// Pfrrij Tool' BdJIasf 




Grave of "Uncle Jimmy" 



Many years ago Ballast Island became the property of 
a stock company, among whom were many prominent 
people. A canoe club was there organized, and canoeing 
became quite a feature of summer sports and amusements, 
so that the place became known in time as the ^'Home of 
the Western Canoe Association." 

For several years the club held their annual races and 
grew to be experts as canoers. Extensive programs of 
races in sailing and paddling were arranged, and prize 
cups of costly design were annually competed for, each 
meet lasting about ten days. Some of the canoes exhibited 
at these meets were costly and beautiful pieces of work- 
manship. In addition to prize cups, flags and other tro- 
phies were awarded. The club house, cottages, and canoe 



228 



Shores from Which Pcrnj Tool- Ballast 




camp near at hand were filled to an overflow on these oc- 
casions, with members and friends of the association. 

Notable among the many artistic and beautiful sum- 
mer residences on Ballast, is that known as the "Gardner 
log cabin" — a romantic picture — a rustic poem from its 
old-fashioned chimney, antique furniture and spinning 
wheel within, to the scaly bark of its unhewn logs, and ivy- 
clad gables, as seen from without ; but its builder, and oc- 
cupant, Geo. W. Gardner, long a familiar figure at Bal- 
last, has gone "the way of all the earth," his decease oc- 
curring about a year ago at the home of his daughter, IMrs. 
C. R. Gilmore, in Dayton, Ohio. The remarkable career of 
deceased forms a subject of interest briefly noted in the 
foregoing: Born in Massachusetts in 1834, he removed 
with his parents to Cleveland when a child of three years. 

Developing an especial fondness for life on the water, 
and out-of-door occupations generally, he left school at 



Shores from Which Perry Took Ballast 229 

the age of fourteen, and sailed the Great Lakes for a 
period of five years. 

At the age of nineteen, he began business in the private 
banking house of Wick, Otis & Brownell and four years 
later became junior partner in the firm of Otis & Brow- 
nell, Cleveland grain dealers. 

Leaving that firm in 1859, Gardrer became a partner 
of M. B. Clark, and John D. Rockefeller, with whom he 
remained until 1861. He was also connected in later years 
with other business interests. 

Covering a period of eight years, Gardner was a 
member of the Cleveland city council, acting as its presi- 
dent during the three last years of his service. 

In 1885 he was elected mayor of Cleveland. Filling 
this position in an able, and satisfactory manner, he was 
again elected to the office in 1889. 

Gardner's attachment for an aquatic life and sports 
grew with years. The rugged and beautiful shores of Bal- 
last Island formed the ideal spot towards which his vagrant 
fancies turned; and each successive summer outing season 
found him with family, and other congenial friends, snugly 
ensconsed in his log cabin on Ballast Island's romantic 
shores. 

While rusticating at Ballast, Gardner was a frequent 
visitor to Put-in-Bay, where he came to be well known to 
all the islanders. He was interested in yachts, and yacht- 
ing, and was subsequently chosen Commodore of the Inte'-- 
Lake regatta fleet, thus acquiring an added title. Besides 
having "Honorable" tacked to his name, he was ad- 
dressed as "Mayor Gardner" and "Commodore," the 
latter being most commonly used. Commodore Gardner 
was simple and unpretentious in personal tastes and in- 
clinations, and possessed that finer sensibility which 



230 



Shores from Mliicli Perry Tool' Ballast 




View on Ballast Island 

enabled him to see beauty and worth in objects humble, 
and even rude. 

Still another old and W(41-known member, who recently 
disappeared from the Ballast meets, was Gen. James Bar- 
nett, former commander of the famous "Barnett Guards" 
of Cleveland, whose demise occurred a short time previous 
to that of Com. Gardner. 

Some that were youthful when the club was first 
organized have now grown elderly, but they still come and 
go, enjoying themselves apparently as of old. 

Among individuals of prominence, who have long been 
identified with Ballast Island club, may be mentioned W. 
R. Huntington and family, C. D. Foote, C. AV. Borroughs 
and family, A. C. Coyt, and W. Scott Roliinson of Cleve- 
land, and Col. Bartlett and family of Fremont. 

"Lost Ballast" is a bit of rock, earth and trees forming 
a pretty islet, cut off years ago from the main island 
shores by violent storms. 



^'Call It S(iuare;' 

TRUE STOEY OF EATTLESXAKE ISLAXD. 



It is remarkable what large sized romances small bits 
of territory are capable of producing under favorable 
conditions. Though containing but ten or twelve acres. 
Rattlesnake Island forms the scene of quite an interesting 
episode along this line. 

The island lies about two miles to the northeast of 
Put-in-Bay. Its surface, partially covered with forest 
fringe and red cedar, is broken by outcropping beds of 
limestone. In shape it is elongated with a hump in the 
middle, and two islets— mere dots — at the tail end, known 
as the "rattles.'' Viewed from a distance, a lively imagina- 
tion may readily resolve this dark couchant body of land 
outlined against the turquoise blue of Erie into a gigantic 
rattlesnake, with head erect and rattles in working order. 
From its peculiar formation the island is generally sup- 
posed to have derived its name, though some assert that 
the appellation was bestowed in consequence of the illimi- 
table quantities of rattlesnakes which rendezvoused in and 
among the creviced and broken rocks. From these fast- 
nesses they were wont to wriggle forth into aggressive 
prominence, hissing and clicking their spite, and whipping 
the earth and surrounding vegetation, until everything 
looked blue. Many "vets" were numbered among the 
reptilian hosts, regular old sockers with whole strings of 
rattles. So thick were they, it is avowed — that a man 

(231) 



5Ji "Tfl / // Square" 

couldn't walk without treading upon thiee of four of the 
"varmints" at every step — this in the halcyon days of yore. 
At a later date the enterprising community of snakes here 
represented materially lessened in numbers, until compara- 
tively few remain to adorn the spot named in their honor. 

An able accessory in the dispersion of this reptile col- 
ony was undoubtedly vested in the brawn and muscle of the 
proprietor, whom for convenience we will call "TIank 
Smith," who with his family located on the island. Old 
Hank wasn't afraid of rattlesnakes, evidently, and prided 
himself manifestly on owning and occupying with his^ 
household gods a whole island, which, if not very big. was 
at least far enough removed from adjacent isles to afford 
ample seclusion. So at least he imagined, and so in reality 
it might have proven but for the obtrusive fact that the 
old codger possessed several comely daughters, and since 
"love laughs at locksmiths," traverses distances immeasur- 
able' and achieves impossibilities of all sorts, this l)lind l)ut 
ever active imp was not long in finding his way to Rattle- 
snake Island. 

C'elia. the eldest, was an attractive maiden with eyes 
that matched the color of the sea and sky and hair a fluff' 
of golden brown. She was lithe and active, free and fear- 
less, revelling like a duck in adventures on the water. She 
was an expert at fishing and fowling, could manipulate a 
pair of oars with admirable skill, and with a light skiff 
was accustomed to cross frequently the two mile stretch 
that intervened between Rattlesnake and Put-in-Bay. 

At the latter place she speedily became the attraction 
of a youthful fisherman who crossed her path — whom we^ 
will call Tom Taylor. After this there was no more peace 
for Rattlesnake. From time to time it was haunted by a 
spectral sail which circled about the island, edging nearer- 



"Cal It Square" 233 

and nearer at each cruise, until one day it lay beached 
close by the "grout" house of Hank Smith. At beck of 
the little winged god, Tom Taylor and his boat had followed 
the charmer to her rocky retreat. This being his first ex- 
perience in courtship, however, Tom proved a bit fresh 
and his bashfulness was excruciating. His feeble advances 
were regarded with apparent disfavor, the coy maiden 
turning a deaf ear to his importunities, until in black 
despair he shook the dust of Rattlesnake from his feet. 
The spectral sail retreated over the water, returning no 
more that season to haunt the mirrored coves of the little, 
lone isle. 

Tom Taylor "darned'' and "gol-darned" his luck and 
the girl, and wished himself and her in — well, in a clime 
too hot for health and comfort. 

Having thus abandoned schemes matrimonial, he re- 
turned to his work of inveigling into nets of tarred twine 
the unsuspecting finny tribes, an occupation with which 
he was more familiar tlian that of love-making. 

One early spring day, some months following the 
collapse of Tom's love affair, a terrible squall, such as 
sometimes swoops down unannounced upon the islands, 
struck Put-in-Bay with a force that twisted limbs from the 
trees and sent the tumbled seas spouting up the rocks. 

Looking from her window, an old woman who occupied 
a cottage on East Point thought she espied a small boat 
far out on the lake driving eastward before the gale. From 
a shelf she snatched a pair of marine glasses, through which 
she took a second observation. Yes, the boat was evidently 
drifting at the mercy of the wind and current. Not an oar 
was in motion. Only a single occupant could be discerned 
and that was a female. With breathless haste the old 
woman rushed to a little cove where stood a fish shantv. 



234 "Call It Square" 

Within an angle of the L shaped dock several boats lay 
moored, and two fishermen attired in yellow oil skins and 
sou' westers were coal tarring twine over a smoking kettle. 
One of these individuals proved to be onr friend Tom 
Taylor. Tom took the marine glasses proffered by the 
scared old woman, and through them examined the drift- 
ing boat. 

"Blast my buttons, if it ain't a woman!" he exclaimed. 
"With two or three long strides he reached and began un- 
fastening a boat. 

"What you goin' to do?" demanded his companion. 
'"Going to pick up that skitf ; come on, Jim." 
Jim demurred, urging that no boat could live long in 
such a sea, and that it was foolhardy to venture. 

Tom, however, would take no denial, and with serious 
misgivings Jim was finally persuaded to take a hand at 
the oars. Under the double pull the boat plunged into the 
boiling surf. It was a hard struggle and many times the 
boat barely escaped swamping in the heavy sea that struck 
her, but at last the castaway was overtaken,^ As they ap- 
proached, the woman stretched appealing hands toward 
them and Tom turned in his seat to get a square look at 
her. 

' ' Great Scott ! ' ' The beaded perspiration on his brow 
now began streaming down his cheeks. It was Celia, she 
who had so cruelly jilted him. But all differences were 
forgotten when life and death hung poised in the balance. 
The drifting boat was nearly filled with water and it 
seemed as if every sea would submerge it, but the boat and 
Celia were both rescued and landed upon the lee side of a 
projecting headland. Celia was drenched through and 
through. Her hair hung in strings, her clothing clung 



"Call It Square" 235 

closely about her. and altogether she looked as picturesque 
as a ducked hen. 

"You may thank Tom here for your salvation," re- 
marked Jim, turning- to the fair but dilapidated Celia. 

"I never see a woman yit that I thought more of 
than I do of my own individual self, an' if Tom hadn't 
shamed me out, I expect he'd awent alone and you'd both 
gone to Davy Jones." 

Now that they had reached land, the rough old fisher- 
man had removed his boots and was draining off the water 
that had collected in them. 

The girl made no reply, but from under dripping 
locks she beamed upon Tom a smile, the most heartsome 
and approving that he had ever received. 

In answer to anxious questions Celia explained that 
when midway between the two islands a rowlock had be- 
come detached and fallen overboard, rendering the oars 
useless, and being overtaken by the squall she had drifted 
until discovered and rescued. 

Celia found shelter with some friends at Put-in-Bay 
until the next morning, when the gale having died, she 
was restored to her anxious parents by Tom Taylor in 
person. She was not much worse for the wetting and scare 
received and was appropriately subdued in manner, treat- 
ing Tom with uniform kindness and evidently regarding 
him as a hero. 

Old Hank received him with effusive demonstrations 
and insisted upon his remaining for the day as an honored 
guest, placing before him in the way of entertainment the 
best that his larder afforded. 

Celia behaved beautifully and it will hardly be neces- 
sary to tell of all the little flirtations successfully prose- 
cuted by the young couple during that brief day. 



236 "CcLl II S<jiiare" 

111 the evening as Tom was about taking his departure, 
his host clapped him on the shoulder and said : 

"Young man, if it hadn't been for you my girl would 
now be drifting down Lake Erie a corpse instead of sitting- 
here. You've saved her life and now I don't know how I 
am to pay you for the trouble, unless you're willin' to 
take her." 

A wave of scarlet suddenly swept over Tom's face, 
extending clear to the roots of his red hair, while the girl 
looked the picture of confusion. 

"Wh}^, Dad!" she exclaimed. 

Tom succeeded after a mighty effort in gaining his 
composure, and after clearing his throat said that if the 
old man was '' willin' " and the girl was "willin' " he 
guessed he'd call it "square." The girl nodded; the old 
man said "all right," and promised to throw in the boat 
as a part of the bargain. So before the ice fields bloci<ed 
the island passages there was a wedding on Rattlesnake 
and Tom bore away his bride in triumph. 

One by one old Hank Smith was robbed of his daugh- 
ters and he eventually left the island himself, and another 
"Family Robinson" who succeeded him now occupies the 
place. 

Tom Taylor multiplied and increased as years swept 
on and now rejoices, with his "better half," in an ample 
share of this world's emoluments. 



Ft. Au Pelee Island 

ITS ROMANTIC HISTOEY ATsD TEESENT 
PROSPERITY. 



Largest in the lake archipelago, Pt. aii Pelee takes 
its name from a long, narrow tongue of land that projects 
southward from the Canadian mainland, of which back in 
ages prehistoric, the island is supposed to have formed a 
part, though several miles of water now roll between. 
This name, bestowed upon the point, became attached also 
to the island. Originated by early French explorers, the 
appellation signifies "rocky," or "desolate," the extreme 
point forming a reach of barren sand, and gravel. 

Pelee Island, an isolated fragment of Canada, forms, 
together with Middle Island, a few miles distant, the most 
southernly extremity of the Dominion. The island is a 
part of the county of Essex across on the adjacent main- 
land. From end to end, the greatest length of Pelee 
Island is about twelve miles, its width nearly four miles. 
Its area is over 10,000 acres with inhabitants numbering 
about 1000. 

Like Kelley's and the Bass group, Pelee Island gives 
evidence of human habitation when perhaps Egypt was 
young, and her civilization in embryo. 

Ancient burial mounds are more numerous on Pelee, 
in fact, than elsewhere found among the islands. That it 
was a well known and favored abiding place of the "mound 
builders" seems a plausible supposition, since numerous 

(237) 



2.3S 



Pt. Au Pelee Island 



are the mounds used as sepulchers. Niches and cavities 
beneath ledges of lime rock were also utilized as burial 
vaults, quantities of human bones being among archaeolog- 
ical finds at Pelee. The stone hatchets, and other imple- 




McCormick Stone Deck and Harbor 

ments of stone — ascribed to the mound builders' handi- 
work — appear, however, to have become intermixed with 
the pipes, arrow heads, and other relics of the red races, 
which in more recent ages succeeded them. 

Concerning the first settlement of Pelee Island by the 
white race, litth^ is known, though early as 1776, French 
explorers navigated Lake Erie, and were undoubtedly 
familiar with its islands and adjacent mainland shores. 
Old Fort Sandusky, that originally stood somewhere near 
the site of Venice on Sandusky Bay, was built by these 
early adventurers. Historians tell us that some of these 
enterprising explorers paddled their canoes all the way 
from Montreal to the Great Lakes, and through Lake Erie 
to the French settlement known as L' Assumption, now 
Sandwich, Michigan ; and that the lake islands, and jut- 



Pi. Au Pelee Island 



239 



ting mainland points, were supposed to have afforded them 
temporary camping places. Furs and pelts of wild 
animals for European shipment being then in great de- 
mand, the early establishment of a trading post on Pelee 
has been suggested as among probabilities. 

The Ottawas, Chippewas, Ojibways, and representa- 
tives of other tribes, held possession of Pelee Island until 
about the year 1780. These Indians are said to have been 
amicably disposed toward both French and English, be- 
coming allies of the latter during the Revolutionary War. 

It is stated that the Indians of upper Lake Erie 
territory, fraternized with white people at L' Assumption, 
and of settlements along the Detroit River. 




"Huldah's Rock" 



It is not known, however, whether any white people 
then lived on Pelee Island, though previous to that date — 
according to Indian traditions handed down — Pelee 
Island was the scene of a romantic and correspondingly 
tragic occurrence, in which figures the name of a well- 
educated young Englishman of good family, who there 
lived for some vears with the Indians. 



240 Pt. Au Pelee Island 

Note. — To Thaddeiis Smith, a wi-iter who lias posted 
up extensively on the history of Pt. an Pelee Island, the 
author is indebted for much of the infor.nation cont lined 
in this sketch. Below is given an extract from Mr. Smith's 
writings : 

"On the northwest shore of the island, facing towards 
the mainland, is a large rock that is known to sailors and 
settlers as 'Hulda's Rock,' but which bore a more 
euphonious French, or Indian name, in earlier times. The 
position of this rock shows that it evidently was once con- 
nected with the land, from which it is now^ separated by a 
few yards, it shows also that the top of it was smooth, and 
projected over the water's edge. From this rock, it is said 
an Indian maid on account of unrequited love cast herself 
into the lake and was drowned. 

"It was customary in the early days of the French 
occupancy of Canada for Indian chiefs or prominent men 
of the tribes living in the great "Western District to make 
voyages to Montreal for trade or pleasure. It was quite 
common for the Indians to take whites captive and carry 
tl em off into their secluded fastnesses, both male and fe- 
male, as will be seen from facts narrated further on ii 
this history. It is related that a chief and his band from 
*he far West thus visited Montreal and while there cap- 
tured a young French woman who was of good birth and 
education and great beauty and brought her away with 
him. To be more secure of his prize he brought her to 
Point Pelee Island as one of the most secluded spots in the 
country. The young captive was treated kindly and 
adopted by the tribe as a daughter. Time deadens or 
sears over sorrows, and this prisoner could only submit to 
her fate with as much patieiice as prssible. On the island 
was a young chief who pleaded with the captive to become 



Pt. All Pclee Island 211 

his wife and make the best of her imprisonment. This 
chief won the respect and admiration of the captive maid 
by his gallant bearing, his bravery and his manly beauty 
of person and after years of waiting and seeing no hope 
of escaping from her prison, she consented to become his 
wife. To them was born a daughter in whom the mother 
found great consolation. As she grew up she taught her 
to speak French and to read and write. About the time 
that she was 17 or 18 years old a young Englishman unex- 
pectedly made his appearance on the island. This 
Englishman had come to Montreal and being fond of ad- 
venture and hunting he joined an Indian band and came 
west, and the same adventurous spirit brought him to 
Point Pelee Island. He was greatly surprised to find there 
a French woman of intelligence and her beautiful half 
breed daughter, and he lingered on the island much longer 
than he had intended. ***** ^^i the rest of 
his conduct has been told in verse in a more condensed 
form and will be given here instead of the more lengthy 
prose narrative. The lines w'ere written by a young girl 
of the island while she was away attending a boarding 
school as a contribution to a school paper published by 
pupils of the school. ' ' 

' ' Once there lived on Point au Pelee 

An Indian Maiden blythe and gay 
"Who often from her birch canoe 

Would spear the spotted salmon through. 

"Pride of her Chieftain father's heart 
She oft would through the wild wood dart, 

And with her bow and arrow raised 

Would pierce the deer that calmly grazed. 



242 Pt. An Pelcc Island 

"Joy of her mother's loving eyes 

This dusky maid was a household prize 

Whose beauty, grace and gentle arts 
Won her a place in manly hearts. 

"A pale face to the island came, 

To catch the fish and kill the gamCf 

And when this lovely maid he knew, 
She won his heart — she loved him, too. 

'' 'Be mine, dear maiden,' then he cried, 
'Let me but win thee for my biide, 

And on this isle I'll gladly stay.' 
The maiden did not say him nay. 

"Happy they lived from year to year, 
Then tidings came of a mother dear, 

Who dying lay on a distant shore. 
And longed to see her son once more, 

"Then with a pledge to come again, 
Before another moon should wane. 

The pale face parted from his bride. 
And o'er the waves his oars he plied. 

"But many moons did wax and wane. 

The young wife's heart grew sick with pain 

And all her life grew dark and chill, 
Her recreant husband tarried still. 

"At length a boat approached the shore. 
Her heart beat high with hope once more; 

But ah ! for her that small, white yawl 
Bore a letter brief — that was all. 



Pi. An Pelee Island 243 

''A letter that brought a withering blight, 
And broke a faithful heart that night; 

That told a tale of broken trust, 

And hurled bright hopes down to the dust. 

' ' Hark ! Hark ! a wail of dark despair. 

Floats out upon the midnight air; 
A splash is heard, and Pelee 's pride, 

Floats out upon blue Erie's tide. 

*'Upon the north of Pelee Isle, 

There strangers linger but a while; 
View 'Hulda's Rock' — the seaman's guide, 

That marks the fate of the Indian bride. 

"It marks that death leap into the sea. 

And marks a white man's perfidy; 
The waves that 'gaints it foam and surge. 

Seem chanting e'er a funeral dirge." 

The first official record of Pelee Island entered was in 
May, 1778, when a deed, or lease of the island, was made 
by the Chiefs and Sachems, conveying their right, title, 
and interest therein to one Thomas McKee, a half breed. 
McKee, it seems, was highly educated, and was appointed 
deputy agent for Indian affairs, in the "West" — as the 
lake territory was then called — by the Canadian govern- 
ment. Judging from his manner of life, McKee was pre- 
sumably wealthy, for he lived after the fashion — it is said 
— of an English gentleman. He built for himself a man- 
sion on land now occupied by the Sandwich fish hatchery. 
He kept hounds, and was a great entertainer. As an ally 
of the British, he headed a band of Indian braves at Battle 



244 Pf. Au Felec Island 

of the Thames. He was very popular both among whites, 
and Indians. "With the latter he was so much of a favorite, 
indeed, that as a token of their high esteem, they made 
over to him the island, the terms being easy, as they were 
novel. The deed of conveyance given McKee is a docu- 
ment of such unique interest, that a copy thereof is here 
annexed : 

"This identure made between the Chiefs and Sachems 
of the Chippewa and Ottawa Nations of Indians, on the one 
part; and Thomas McKee, of Detroit, of the other part, 
witnessed, that the said Chiefs and Sachems of the Chip- 
pewa and Ottawa Nations, for and in consideration of the 
rent and covenant hereinafter mentioned and contained, 
which on the part and behalf of said Thomas McKee, his 
heirs, executors, administrators, are and ought to be paid 
and performed, hath demised, and to form letters granted, 
and by these presents do demise, grant and to form let unto 
the said Thomas McKee, his heirs, executors, administra- 
tors and assigns, all that Island known by the name of 
Point Pelee Island, near Point Pelee in Lake Erie : To 
have and to hold the said Island unto the said Thomas Mc- 
Kee, his executors, administrators, or assigns, for and dur 
ing the term 999 years and fully to be complete and ended. 
To parcel out the said Island into such lots and parcels as he 
may think proper, and tenant the same with whatsoever 
and whomsoever they please to put thereon. Yielding and 
paying therefor, yearly and every year during the said 
term, unto the said Chiefs and Sachems of the Chippewa 
and Ottawa Nations, their heirs and assigns, three bushels 
of Indian corn or the value thereof, if demanded annually, 
to and for the use of said Chiefs and Sachems, their na- 
tions, heirs and assigns for and in full satisfaction and 
payment of all manner of rents whatsoever: And the 



Pt. Au Pelee Island .245 

Chiefs, for themselves. In witness whereof, etc., at Detroit 
the tirst day of May, in the year 1788, executed by seven 
Chiefs, and Sachems who attach their totems. 

Signed, sealed, and delivered in the presence of 

James Allen, 
F. Baby. 

In 1804, McKee leased the island to one John 
Askins of Amherstsburg, who was also a sub-agent of 
Indian affairs under the Canadian government. A num- 
ber of settlers and employes were sent to Pelee by Askins. 
Among them were Justus Allen, Robert Little, and an in- 
dividual named Butler. With these men he sent over a 
lot of cattle, horses, and hogs. As to whether these were 
the first domestic animals introduced is not known. 

Thomas McKee died in 1815, and his only son, Alex- 
ander, succeeded him as owner of the island. In the same 
year, Wm. McCormick, of Colchester, leased the same 
from its new owner, and later in 1823 purchased the island 
entire for the sum of $500, and removed thither his large 
family. 

The father of this the first permanent white settler of 
Pelee Island was Alexander McCormick, a character with 
a history of such interest that it is here given in the 
writer's (Mr. Smith's) own words. 

the life and adventures op alexander 
McCormick. 

By Thaddeus Smith. 

In the closing years of the 17th century in the reign of 
James II, of Scotland, about the year 1688, the Duke of 
Seomburg was sent on a military expedition to Ireland. 



216 Pt. Au Pelee Islaud 

"With his army were many Scotchmen who remained and 
settled in the north of Ireland — the progenitors of that 
sturdy, active and intelligent people known as the Scotch 
Irish. "With the Duke of Scomburg came one ^IcCormick, 
who settled in the county of Down in Ireland and there 
reared a family of six children — four sors and two daugh- 
ters. The youngest son was named Alexander. Young 
Alexander McCormick had such a primary education as 
the times and country afforded, but which was mostly of a 
commercial character. He had a restless, speculative dis- 
position and before he reached his majority had deter- 
mined to leave the land of his birth, and an older brother 
agreeing with him, they made their arrangements to come 
to the new English Colony in America. They probably 
reached America about the year 1761. After their arrival 
in the English Colonies, they separated — the elder brother 
going south to the Carolinas, and was not heard of after- 
wards by any of the family, and has no further part in this 
narrative. 

Alexander McCormick secured a position in business 
with a merchant in Philadelphia and remained in the East- 
ern States for several years. But following the bent of his 
restless and roving disposition and his desire for adventure 
he joined a company of traders to go into the western 
wilderness across the Allegheny ^fountains to trade with 
the Indians for pelts and furs. This was probably betweeji 
the years 1768 and 1770. The whole of the western country 
was then an almost unexplored wilderness, inhabited only 
by tribes of savage, roaming Indians. There were few 
white settlements west of the Alleghenies. One of the old- 
est of these was at the junction of the Allegheny and 
Monongahela Rivers where they unite to form the Ohio 
River — "LaBelle Riviere" of the early French settlers. 



Pt. All Pelee Island 247 

Here, probably as early as the close of the 17th century, 
was established a fort by French Canadian settlers, which 
they called Fort Duquesne, and a trading station. In the 
war between England and France, 1755-1763, the 
British were victorious, and in 1763, France ceded to 
England her Canadian and all her other American 
possessions. In this war old Fort Duquesne was 
captured and demolished in 1758. But afterwards 
under the British a new fort was built called 
Fort Pitt, and around it was established a small but 
important trading station about the year 1769, called 
Pittsburg. The site is now occupied by the great manufac- 
turing city of Pittsburg and its twin city, Allegheny City. 
There was another settlement still further west that was 
older, larger and of more importance, made by the Cana- 
dian French at Detroit and along the Detroit River on 
both sides. There were some smaller settlements further 
down the Ohio River — at Monetta, Ohio, and Limestone or 
Majorville, Ky., and in Central Kentucky at and near 
Lexington there was a more extensive settlement of 
Virginians and Marylanders who had followed the foot- 
steps of the pioneer huntsman and noted Indian fighter, 
Daniel Boone. But to reach any of these settlements from 
the Eastern States hundreds of miles of wilderness had to 
be passed through that were inhabited by tribes of hostile 
Indians, who also hung closely around the outskirts of the 
settlements watching for their prey. 

Undaunted by the prospect, Alexander McCormick 
set out on his perilous trip to the West, about the year 1771, 
with a few companions, provided with such goods as were 
suitable for trade with the Indians for skins and furs that 
were then in great demand in Europe. We are not in- 
formed of the number of the party, or the number of 



248 Pt. Au Pelee Island 

horses used to transport their goods and chattels ; but they 
must have made their way slowly and laboriously, wading 
streams and climbing mountains, and no doubt met with 
many adventures and perils to life and limb from the many 
dangers they encountered. It is probable that the first 
white settlement he reached was Pittsburg; but of this 
there is no definite certainty or any evidence that he 
stopped there any length of time. 

Beyond Pittsburg, westward, across the Ohio River, 
and north to the Great Lakes and to the Detroit River, was 
that vast unexplored region known as the Western District 
or the North West Territory. It was inhabited by tribes 
of the Wyandotte, Shawnee, Cherokee, Delaware and other 
Indians. We find that McCormick had passed over the 
Ohio River into this district and was living with a band of 
Wyandottes. But whether he was captured by them and 
made a prisoner, or whether he voluntarily went among them 
to trade, it does not appear. But there is no doubt that they 
prevented him from making his escape and held him as a 
captive. It would not seem that McCormick was very 
much dissatisfied with the situation. In fact he seems to 
have been well pleased with his roving life and Indian 
companionship, as he could probably have made his escape 
sometime during his long sojourn with the Indians if he 
had wished to do so. The Indians were also pleased with 
him and he became a favorite and "big Injun" among 
them, being formerly adopted into the tribe as a "brother" 
with appropriate ceremony. To make their relations still 
closer, the Chief offered him his sister, a comely young 
squaw, for a wife, and McCormick readily accepted the 
offer, and they were duly married according to the 
Indian ceremony for such occasions. The Indians were 
sagacious enough to make McCormick useful. They told 



Pt. Au Pelec Island 249 

him that he was ''no good" to hunt or for war; but by 
making signs indicating writing and making figures they 
said he was good for that, and they found him of much 
service to them in making bargains with white traders 
whom they now occasionally met in their wanderings and 
through him they carried on their trading with the whites 
at Detroit. They trusted him to collect cargoes of skins 
and to take them from the Maumee Elver in boats to the 
lake and on to Detroit and to dispose of them there and 
bring back such supplies as they needed, without any fears 
of his leaving them, so completely was he identified with 
them. McCormick thus made frequent trips to Detroit 
during the eight or ten years of his identification with the 
Indians and on these trips he made the acquaintance of 
prominent white men in Detroit, both French and English, 
some of whom were very useful to him in after life. Bat 
he always returned to his Indian companions. In due time 
a son was born to him by his Indian wife. It is said that 
she died a few years afterwards; but McCormick took good 
care of his Indian offspring and brought him to Canada 
with him many years after, when he settled down to 
civilized life. 

In McCormick 's wanderings and trading among the 
difi'erent tribes, he often met white men, traders and 
trappers, or captives and others adopting the Indian life. 
In a band of the Chippewa tribe visiting the INIaumee 
country he discovered a white squaw, and from his inti- 
mate knowledge of the Indians he knew that she was some 
white girl who had been captured and adopted by the 
tribe. The girl from all appearances had no doubt been 
with the Indians a long time, and had become completely 
identified with them. McCormick soon became very much 
interested in the white squaw, and when he found an op- 



250 rt. Au I'ckc Island 

portnnity to .speak to her and learn her history, he ascer- 
tained that she had been with the Indians about three years. 

It was but natural that these two exiles from civiliza- 
tion should find some interest in each other ; since the cap- 
tive maid in time became intimately connected with the 
subject of this history we shall now look back to her early 
life and to the times in which she lived. 

So closely allied to the adventures of Alexander Mc- 
Cormick is the history of another life as strangely shapen 
as his own, that this also is given a place as below : 

"CHESTNUT BURR." 

By Thaddeus Smith. 

Pittsburg, aliout the year 1780, was a straggling vil- 
lage and trading post, that had already gone through many 
changes, as has been noted heretofore. It was still an 
isolated settlement surrounded by a wilderness, with the 
Indians lurking around its outskirts. Fort Pitt, and a few 
block-houses and stockades, answered as a kind of protec- 
tion and place of refuge in case of an attack from the 
hostile Indians. At this time there lived in Pittsburg a 
family by the name of Turner who were from Maryland. 
They had a neighbor named ^NIcKevar. In order to add to 
their scanty provisions many of these early settlers were 
in the habit of making maple sugar in the spring, to do 
which they would open a camp in a nearby sugar bush, 
using common open kettles to boil the sap down. The 
Turners and McKevars joined together and made a sugar 
camp, on the slope of a hill not far from their dwellings. 
It consisted of a rude shed made by putting forked posts 
in the ground with poles in the forks to hold the cover 
of rough boards, or boughs. Kettles and pots were hung 



Pt. An Pclec Island 251 

on a pole which M'as also supported by stakes driven in the 
ground, and under these was kept up a blazing fire of dry 
limbs and fagots. To gather the sap or "sugar water" and 
keep the kettles boiling and full, and at the same time to 
prevent them from "boiling over" required the constant 
attention of some one all day, and sometimes all night. 
This work was intrusted to their sons, two lads nearly grown. 
In early March, 1780, young Turner and ]\IcKevar were at 
work in the sugar camp, and the parents sent their two 
daughters and a smaller lad out to the "sugar bush" to 
take the boys some needed provisions and to assist them 
somewhat in their work. It was the breaking up of winter 
and the sun shone brightly; the robins were twittering 
and hopping about in the dry leaves to secure a meal of 
a grub or worm, and the blue birds, those bright harbin- 
gers of spring-time, were whistling from an old dead tree 
full of holes made by the woodpeckers, in which they were 
seeking to make their nest. The girls were enjoying their 
outing and lingered on through the afternon, assisting 
their brothers, drinking warm maple syrup, and in fun 
and frolic around the camp fire, without a thought of 
danger; but the declining sun warned them that it was 
time to return home. Just then the dog was heard to bark, 
which indicated the approach of strangers and boded evil. 
The bark of the dog was quickly followed by the crack of 
rifles, and the two young men fell, pierced by the fatal 
bullet from the unerring aim of the savage Indians. The 
girls found themselves in the presence of hideously 
painted savages with uplifted tomahawks and before they 
could collect their thoughts, were seized and carried away 
into the thick, dark woods, as was also the younger lad. 
As the girls did not return to their homes at night the 
parents went to the camp in search, there to find Iheir 



252 Pt. All Pelee Island 

sons dead and the girls carried off. An alarm was given 
in the settlement of the attack upon the sugar camp, but 
it was impossible to attempt a rescue. Should the few 
men who could be spared from the settlement pursue the 
Indians into the woods in the darkness, they would be liable 
to be shot from ambush, or tomahawked by the wily foe. 
When morning came it was evident that the Indians would 
he too far away to be overtaken easily, and there were not 
men enough to be spared from the settlement for an ex- 
pedition. The friends of the young girls were exceedingly 
anxious as to their fate, knowing the character of the 
Indians and their manner of treating prisoners. Some- 
times they might be treated kindly enough, though roughly, 
and adopted as members of the tribe or band they were 
with; but should they become sick or faint and unable to 
travel, they would ruthlessly rid themselves of them by 
the use of the deadly hatchet. One of these captured 
girls, Elizabeth Turner, lived to be rescued from the 
Indians after being with them over three years, and to tell 
the story of her capture, of her wanderings, sufferings and 
adventures among them. She lived to a good old age to 
tell these true stories — the truth of which is "stranger 
than fiction" — to her children, and to a large circle (.'f 
grandchildren. 

Soon after the capture Elizabeth was separated from 
her companion. Miss McKever, as she fell to the lot of a 
band of Wyandottes and Miss McKever to some other tribe. 
They never met again. The young lad who was c;iptnred 
along with them soon became sick and unable to travel nnd 
was slain by the way. The Wyandottes, with Elizabeth 
Turner, immediately left the vicinity of Pittsburg and 
slowly made their way to the Indian villages on the lower 



Pt. All Pelee Island 253 

and upper Sandusky rivers, and on the borders of Lake 
Erie, dwelling during the summer at some one of these 
places. Elizabeth appears to have been blessed with good 
health ; she was not only physically well equipped to stand 
the hard life she was compelled to endure, though 
but a small woman, but she had great moral courage 
and an indomitable spirit. She used to say the 
Indians would often praise her for acts which 
they called brave; "but," said she, "it was not bravery, 
it was simply desperation." Her heroic conduct, or as 
probably she would have put it, her stoic behavior, and 
general good conduct, caused her to find favor with her 
captors, and they formally adopted her into their band as 
a sister, and treated her kindly, after the Indian fashion. 
She had to take part in most of the work and drudgery 
that usually falls to the lot of the squaws — the "white 
squaw" had to do her part. On one occasion while work- 
ing the corn patch, her squaw companions quit work and 
retired to the shade, but told her she must work on — that 
she was their slave — but Elizabeth also promptly left the 
corn patch for the shade. The squaws remonstrated and 
threatened to force her to work, but with hoe uplifted she 
let them know that she would use it upon them and threat- 
ened with so much show of determination that the squaws 
fled to the camp and reported her to the Chief. Their 
story however only amused the Chief and his companions, 
who praised Elizabeth for her show of bravery. At 
another time she had a quarrel and fight with a squaw 
from whom she tore the clothes and put her to flight. This 
also amused the braves, who applauded her for the act. 
Her spirited disposition, her readiness to resent any 
indignities and to take care of herself and stand up for 
her rights, showed itself in many other incidents; and on 



:254 Pi. An Pelee Island 

account of these qualities she was given an Indian name 
that meant a Chestnut Burr. She would sting, they said, 
like a burr whenever molested. With all of Elizi^beth 
Turner's spirit and fortitude, she was not exempt from 
feeling the horror of her terrible situation, or from pining 
for home and kindred, and the hope against hope for her 
delivery, nor was she exempt from fatigue and sickness. 
As one time she was sent to watch the corn field to keep 
the birds from eating the corn just as the grains began to 
fill, she was sick and weary and almost desperate as to 
her fate and went to the field alone. Her sickness grew 
worse and she became delirious and unconscious. She 
could not tell, by days or weeks, how long s]:e remained 
in this condition ; but when she began to recover she found 
that the young corn, that was just coming into the milk 
state when she was taken ill, was now well glazed and get- 
ting hard. She could remember of only once being visited 
by a squaw during her sickness. 

i\Iontlis and years were passing without Elizabeth 
Turner hearing from her people and without any pros- 
pect of her making her escape. They were now in the 
Indian settlement of the upper Sandusky in the northern 
part of what is now the State of Ohio, hundreds of miles 
through a wilderness, from Pittsburg. She occasionally 
met a white trader or prisoner, but they knew nothing of 
her people or her country. The War of the Revolution was 
not yet ended in the West. The Indians were the allies 
of the British and were employed by them in bands and 
companies and singly to fight the rebellious Yankees, either 
commanded by British officers, or under their own Chief. 
The cruelties and atrocities that the British ofScers allowed 
their Indian allies to inflict upon prisoners and non- 
combatants, is a blot upon our prided Anglo Saxon civiliza- 



Pt. All Pelee Island 255 

tion, that can never be erased so long as history records 
the facts. 

Elizabeth Turner was, at times, an unwilling witness 
to tortures inflicted upon prisoners. Col. Crawford of the 
patriot army of the Revolution was a prisoner of the 
Indians at the upper Sandusky villages while Elizabeth 
was there. She sought a personal interview with him and 
warned him of his impending fate and urged him to try 
to make his escape. Crawford told her that he did not 
think it possible to escape and said he was too old and 
feeble to attempt it. He told her that Simon Girty, a noted 
hunter and pioneer among the Indians and an ally of the 
British, had offered to assist him to escape, promising to 
furnish him a horse and guide; but he said it was of no 
use and seemed resigned to his fate. "When the day ar- 
rived and preparations were being made to burn Crawford 
at the stake, Elizabeth, making an excuse that she ought to 
go out early in the morning to bring in a horse, fled to the 
woods and remained completely concealed until the terrible 
business was over. The Indians had intended that she 
should be a witness to the execution. For the first time 
they accused her of cowardice, and told her that they be- 
lieved Crawford was her father and th^t for that reason 
she had hidden away. 

In the fall or winter of 1782 the band of Indians with 
whom Elizabeth was, left the Sandusky villages and went 
north to the Maumee country in the neighborhood of where 
the city of Toledo now is. They there met with the 
Shawnee tribe, among whom was a white man who, in dress 
and general appearance, seemed to be completely identified 
with the Shawnees ; in fact he appeared to be one of them 
and one of some prominence and authority, though he was 
white. He was later found to be an Indian trader, who 



256 Pt. Au Pelee Island 

had been adopted by the tribe, and has been with them 
some eight or nine years, Alexander McCormick by name. 

McCormick was greatly surprised to see among the 
Wyandottes a white squaw and soon made her acquaint- 
ance. Elizabeth's hopes were buoyed up with the expecta- 
tion of hearing something from her friends, and possibly 
making her escape through the new-found acquaintance. 
McCormick could not give her any news from her friends 
in Pittsburg, but he showed great interest in her welfare, 
and it was a relief to her to have some white person's 
companionship. As a few months passed McCormick 's 
interest in the white squaw increased, and as his Indian 
wife had died some time before this, he now thought of 
trying to win her for his wife. Elizabeth w^as glad to 
make a new friend under the circumstances she was in, 
and did not discourage his attentions. He was not long in 
making a proposal of marriage, but she was not prepared 
to accept his offer then. Before she was captured she had 
a lover in Pittsburg to whom she was betrothed, and felt 
that she ought to be true to her lover and her vows, and that 
a separation of three years ought not to release her from 
them. But McCormick pled with her to overcome these 
scruples. He told her that there was no probability of her 
ever seeing the young man again — that doubtless he had con- 
sidered her dead and had married some one else, or he might 
be dead himself — probably killed by hostile Indians, and 
finally succeeded in getting her consent to marry him. 

But there was another difficulty in the way. The 
Wyandottes refused to allow Elizabeth to leave their tribe, 
or to give her up to McCormick. McCormick thought to 
overcome this difficulty by paying a liberal ransom for 
her; but when he went to take her away they refused to 
let her go, having regretted their bargain. McCormick 's 



Pt. An Pelee Island 257 

Scotch blood was now roused, and he determined to have 
her, even if he had to steal her and run away with her to 
Detroit; and he laid his plans with this intention. Cir- 
cumstance favored his project. He was, that spring, 
engaged in collecting furs and skins to be loaded in row 
boats at Maumee City, of which he was to have charge to 
take them to Detroit, as he had frequently done before. 
When all was ready, by previous arrangement with Eliza- 
beth, he got her into one of the boats, secreted her in the 
bottom and completely covered her with the skins. When 
the Wyandottes missed their Avhite squaw they immediate- 
ly suspected MeCormick of spiriting her away, and went 
to search his boats for her. They removed nearly all the 
skins from the boat that she was in, seemed satisfied that 
she was not there and left a few skins in the bottom; but 
these few completely concealed her. When the Wyan- 
dottes withdrew without finding Elizabeth, they both felt 
greatly relieved, for when once on their way in the boats 
there would be no danger of rescue. The voyage by row- 
boats was a slow one. First down the Maumee River into 
Lake Erie, thence up the lake, keeping along the shore and 
camping on land at night, and the same way up the Detroit 
River against the current, they at last reached Detroit 
safely, 

MeCormick took Elizabeth to the house of one of the 
friends he had made in Detroit on former visits — one Col. 
Allen. There he bountifully provided her with the dress 
of civilization, to which she had been a stranger for three 
years. He also provided her with the best wedding dress 
and outfit that could be bought in the town and they were 
married in the house of Col. Allen in May, 1783, by an 
English Church minister. Mrs. IMcCormick often de- 



258 Pi. Au Pelee Island 

scribed to her children and grandchildren her wedding 
outfit in detail and it would now be a curious costume. 

After the marriage of Alexander McCormick to Eliza- 
beth Turner they soon began to make preparation to return 
to the Indian settlement in the ^laumee country from which 
he had lately come ; and, with his young wife and some 
necessary articles that would be needed, he left Detroit 
and embarked upon their frail boats in the same way that 
they had come. It seems that McCormick preferred to live 
among the Indians and keep up his fur trade. With his 
Scotch thrift he had made money, and proposed to take up 
land and establish a more permanent home than he had 
had with the Indians. They were both familiar with the 
Indian life, inured to its hardships, and apparently were 
([uite satisfied with it, so it was no great sacrifice to them 
to live thus. 

On May 30tli, 1784, a child was born to them, whom 
they named William. The veil of the future of this child 
has been opened to us, and we know his future career ; 
but at that time the most sanguine optimist could not have 
predicted that a child born in such unfavorable circum- 
stances would become a prominent man in his sphere — a 
member of the Canadian Parliament and the first white 
owner of Point au Pelee Island. 

A very natural desire came to Mrs. ]\IcCormick to 
visit her old home at Pittsburg to see her relatives and 
friends, and to let them know that she was still alive. But 
it would be a difficult undertaking. Pittsburg was some 
200 or more miles distant and the whole route was through 
a wilderness without roads and without inhabitants, save 
some roving bands of Indians. It was not convenient for 
her husband to leave his business and go with her. But 
that same indomitable will and spirit that had enabled her 



Pt. All Pelee Island 259 

to g-o through so many trials, now came to her aid, and she 
devised a plan to accomplish her desire and executed it. 
She selected a trusty scjuaw to be her only companion on 
the journey and JMcCormick provided them with two 
horses and such a small outfit as they could carry with 
them, of little things that would be most necessary to 
them. Thus equipped, with her young child in her arms, 
Mrs. McCormick (nee Elizabeth Turner) set out on horse- 
back to make the journey to Pittsburg. The journey was 
long and tedious and not without thrilling adventures and 
hardships. No friendly houses along the route to shelter 
them at night and for many days' traveling not an Indian 
wigwam to be seen. When night overtook them, they 
camped alone in the wilderness. It is hard for us even tj 
imagine a young mother with her babe making such a 
journey, but ]\Irs. jMcCormick 's four years' experience of 
Indian life enabled her to do it successfully. 

She found her father and mother alive, but the ap- 
pearance of their daughter before them was like one rising 
from the dead. Four years had passed since she was taken 
from them and they had not heard one word from her. 
To see her return with a child — a child of her own — great- 
ly added to their surprise. She found her former lover, who 
was still unmarried, but he said he did not blame her, under 
the eircumstances, for marrying McCormick, and thought 
that she had done right. She remained with her friends 
a few weeks, and then returned to her husband in the 
same way that she had come — on horseback, with her lone 
squaw companion. 

The war of the Revolution was now over and a treaty 
of peace had been made. Whether McCormick took an 
active part in fighting the revolutionists wdth the British, 
or with their Indian allies, is not known ; but the Indians 



260 Pi. Au Pelec Island 

were the British allies, and he was thoroughly identified 
with them, and no doubt strongly sympathized with the 
British cause. He had, perhaps, been guilty of acts which 
led the Yankees to look upon him as an enemy, and as the 
number of Yankees were increasing, it made it unpleasant 
for him to remain among them. In the eastern colonies, 
made independent states by the success of the revolution, 
there were a number of Tories who still believed in the 
"Divine right of Kings," and refused to be disloyal to 
King George, who determined to leave the New England 
States and seek a new home in the English Province of 
Quebec, now Canada. They gathered up their families 
and effects, shook the dirt from their feet, and entered 
British territory. Some entered from New York near 
Niagara, others pushed on further west to Detroit and 
crossed the river into British possession and formed a 
colony in what is now the County of Essex, Ontario. 
These Loyalists were encouraged and rewarded by the 
English government with a gift of 200 acres of land to 
each family. McCormick being loyal to the King and not 
satisfied with living among the Yankees determined to 
gather up his effects, take them to Detroit and cross the 
river, and join this colony of Loyalists on British ground, 
and make himself and family a permanent home. He 
selected his 200 acres of government land in that part of 
the county now known as the Township of Colchester, 
near the shores of Lake Erie. This county was almost an 
unbroken wilderness, covered with a very heavy growth of 
forest, with but few white settlers in that part of the 
county; but they were more numerous upon the Detroit 
River. There were Indians in abundance and McCormick 
again found himself in his old element, and there is no 
doubt bvt that he engaged in his old business of trading. 



Pt. All Pelee Island 



261 



with considerable success, as well as doing a little farming. 
The writer has not been able to secure the exact date that 
McCormick came to Canada. Some place the date about 




Government Wharf, West Side 

the year 1787 or 1788, while there are other evidences that 
it was four or five years later — somewhere in the early 
nineties. When McCormick was married to Elizabeth 
Turner he was at least 40 years old, while she was but 21. 
There were born to them eight children in all, four sons and 
four daughters. The particular branch of the family we 
wish to follow in this narrative is through William, the eld- 
est child — the one that was born among the Indians, and 
was carried from the IMaumees to Pittsburg and back on 
horseback by his mother; and the one who became the first 
white owner of Point au Pelee Island. 

In 1802 Alexander McCormick made a trip to Ireland 
and visited his relations there. He returned and lived to 
a good old age, but died many years before his wife. Mrs. 



262 Pf. All Pelee Island 

Elizabeth Turner .MeCormiek died in 1839 about 77 years 
old. She lived to see all her children raised to manhood 
and womanhood, in fact at her death her children were 
well advanced in years. She lived to see many grand- 
children — to tell them of the wonderful incidents and ad- 
ventures of her early life among the Indians. A few of 
these incidents have been gathered by the writer, but are 
only feebly told in this narrative. She lived to see that 
child Wm. ]\IcCormick, born among the Indiars, that she 
carried m her arms when a babe hundreds of miles on 
horseback, became a prominent man in the community in 
which he lived, and a member of the Canadian Parliament ; 
and when he came to Pelee Island to live, she came with him, 
and lived there several years — but she died in the Towu- 
ship of Colchester, while there on a visit, ?s before stated, 
in 1839. 

SOME LATER HISTORY OF PT. AU PELEE ISLAND. 

When William ]McCormick moved his family of eleven 
children to Pelee in 1834, he located upon the island's north 
shore. Two log cabins, with a small frame building be- 
tween, formed his dwelling. This structure stood back a 
few yards from the blutfs of North Bay, in sight of the 
Canada mainland, and overlooking the North channel 
passage, through which they pass most of the large freight 
carriers and other vessels of the Great Lakes — ^both sail 
and steam, en route to or from Detroit, and other lake 
ports far beyond. 

The place chosen by McCormick afforded a good loca- 
tion for a dock, which was afterwards built. A few log 
cabins had been erected on the island before McCormick 's 
arrival ; these were occupied by tenants, among Avhom were 



Pt. Au Pclce Island 263 

the Allan and Butler families and John and George Fox. 
The latter was drowned in North Bay. Later on, the two 
Fox families moved to North Bass Island. Peter and 
Simon Fox — now deceased — and their sister, Mrs. George 
Wires, who still lives, spent their earlier years on Pelee. 

The island, when McCormick took possession, com- 
prised very wild territory containing three marshes, the 
larger covering an area of 4000 acres, and extending 
across the island, the only place for a road connecting the 
northern and southern portions of land being a narrow 
strip of sand and gravel edging the lake, that had been 
thrown up by the waves. Following a heavy easterly 
storm, and corresponding rise of water, lake and marsh 
were sometimes united in one body. The growths of wild 
vines and acjuatic vegetation were extensive and very 
dense. Elk and deer were numerous at one time, their 
remains being found in the marshes. Muskrats were so 
plentiful, 'tis said, that their houses covered the prairie 
meadows, looking like haycocks. They were trapped and 
speared, both by whites and Indians. As high as 6,000 
muskrat skins were taken in a single year. Snakes were 
very numerous, including the "rattler." 

The mallard, loon, and wild duck here found a congen- 
ial home; and wild geese paused in their semi-annual 
flights to feed upon wdld rice and other abundant foods. 

The McCormicks engaged in farming and stock 
raising. Horses, hogs, and cattle multiplied and ran wild 
in the big woods and marshes. Hogs grew fat on acorns 
and hickorynuts, and in the early winter were hunted with 
dogs and guns by the settlers, who thus provided them- 
selves with pork and lard. 

A sawmill was erected in 1836, at which red cedar 
timber was sawn into railroad ties. These were shipped 



264 Pt. Au Pdee Island 

to Cleveland, and other places in the States. Immense 
oaks were cut down and hewn into timl^ers the entire 
length of the tree. These were floated out to anchored 
vessels, and finally shipped to Europe, to be used for ship- 
building. 

The peaceful seclusion of the island dwellers was 
rudely and suddenly broken in 1838 by an uprising against 
the Canadian government, known as the "Patriot Rebel- 
lion." The island was invaded by a detachment of these 
rebels, approaching by the way of Sandusky, or Marble- 
head, Ohio, across the f^'ozen lake. 

They came to plunder, also to capture the ]\IcCor- 
micks, the elder Wm. McCormick having served as a 
member of the Canadian Parliament, and was known as a 
staunch ''Loyalist." 

It was in March, 1838, when the raid was made on 
Pelee, the rebels numbering, it is said, about 450. In some 
way the McCormicks got wind of the approaching invasion, 
and, to avoid capture, packed such of their valuables as 
they could carry and with the family crossed the inter- 
vening ten miles of ice to the Canada main. Hastening to 
Fort Maiden, the military authorities there stationed were 
informed of the brewing trouble and Col. ]\Iaitland Avith 
three companies of regular and one of volunteer militia 
set out at once for the island, under the guidance of the 
two youthful brothers, David and William McCormick. 

A description of the battle fought March 3rd, 1888, on 
Pelee, or rather on the ice near its southern extremity, is 
extant, the account running as follows: 

"Col. Maitland sent men over to examine the ice to 
see if it was safe to send cannons over. They reported it 
safe ; and one company of volunteers and three of regulars, 
one under Capt. Brown and the others under Col. Mait- 



Pt. Au Pelee Island 265 

land, came with two brass pieces. The rebels believed them 
to be all volunteers, and not being afraid of thes'\ prepared 
to fight ; but when the regulars drew off their overcoats and 
displayed their uniforms, consternation seized them. 
Running to the south end of the island, where Capt, Brown 
had been stationed, a battle ensued between them and him. 
Five men were killed and fifteen prisoners were taken. 
The British had one killed and twenty-eight wounded. 
Three rebels retreated to the east side and attempted to 
get away on the ice. About one hundred broke through 
and were drowned ; the rest made their escape. '' 

This account differs somewhat from that given by the 
McCormicks, who were here on the ground, especially that 
part saying one hundred of the rebels were drowned, 
which is no doubt a mistake. 

"When the rebels raided Pelee Island they wrought 
great damage not alone to the McCormicks, but to others 
of its inhabitants. The cabin owned by the father of 
Peter and Simon Fox — who later became residents of 
North Bass — was made a place of rendezvous. The raiders 
ate up all the potatoes and other supplies that the family 
had stored away, leaving them destitute of provisions. 

This disturbance had a discouraging effect upon Mc- 
Cormick and his family and they did not return to locate 
permanently on the island until the summer of 1839. 

The leading purpose of William McCormick in buying 
Pelee Island was to provide an ample farm for each of 
his eleven children ; and with declining health he made a 
will to this effect. By this instrument, 100 acres were set 
aside on the north shore for the purpose of maintaining 
a school on the island; ten acres on the north shore for a 
prospective village, and church. The remainder of the 
lands were to be divided equally among the children. 



266 Pi. An Pclec Island 

Wm. McCormiek died in 1840. His aged mother, 
Elizabeth Turner IMcCormick — the Indian captive — who 
had lived with his family on Pelee, up to the time when the 
"Patriot War" invaders drove them from the isalnd, died 
soon after leaving the island at Colchester. 

No survey of the island was made until 1840, when 
under the agency of Alexander, eldest of the heirs, a 
surveyor Avas employed for the purpose of dividing up the 
land. The division, however, was not made as provided by 
the will. This occasioned great dissatisfaction among the 
other heirs, followed by dissension and trouble in various 
ways, all of which conspired to delay for twenty years the 
growth of island interests. Alexander held to the land he 
claimed, regardless of protest, placing tenants thereon. 
He also sold large tracts to outside parties, by whom were 
erected several frame houses. 

The newcomers engaged in clearing land and shipping 
cedar and other timber. The other heirs refused to ac- 
knowledge the validity of the sales made ; but the land 
purchasers felt sure of their hold upon the island, and one 
of the number, Henry Price, set out two or three acres of 
grapes. This was the first vineyard ever planted on Polee 
Island. 

Up to this time, the McCormiek heirs had rested secure 
in their title to the island received through their father 
from the Indians, in 1788, the deed having been duly en- 
tered on the county records. Howbeit. when an attempt was 
made to sell, or to mortgage its lands, it was found that 
this could not be satisfactorily done, because a patent had 
never been issued by the Government to any one for the 
island. 

In 1854, an attempt was made by the McCormiek 
heirs to establish their claim to the island, and an attor- 



Pt. An Pelee Island 267 

ney was employed to look up the whole matter. A docu- 
ment covering the entire case was prepared and submitted 
to the Canadian Government. The presiding judge in the 
case decided that as the island had never been ceded to 
the Crown by the Indians, and as the Government had 
never held possession thereof, nor received any profits 
therefrom, the said lands were the legal possessions of the 
McCormicks, and of them alone. The judge then recom- 
mended the issuing of patents to each member of the Mc- 
Cormick family, and division of land as provided in the 
will of AVm. McCormick. The views of the judge 
were adopted by the Government, and this set- 
tled for all time the dispute. Twenty-seven years had 
passed before the provisions of their father's will were 
finally carried out, and the McCormick heirs obtained a 
perfect title to the lands they had so long occupied. 

Mrs. Mary Cornwall McCormick, widow of 
Wm. ]\IcCormick, resided fifty years on the island 
after her husband's death. Her decease occurred 
in 1891. She was aged nearly ninety-nine years. 
During the many years of uncertain ownership, nearly all 
of the cedar and oak and much other timber had been cut 
down and sold. Otherwise, little had been accomplished 
in the way of improvements ; but with the confirmation of 
their title, the way for new advancement was opened to 
the McCormick heirs. During this time, the only way by 
which the islanders could pass to and from the mainland 
was in their own sail or rowboats. Through continued 
practice the INIcCormick boys became very-^ proficient as 
sailors, Capt. David McCormick subsequently becoming 
master both of steam craft and sailing vessels. All mail 
matter was obtained at the Kingsville post office, and was 
brought over onlv when some boat happened to make the 



268 Pt. All Pelee Island 

trip across. In winter, it is said, the people were some- 
times as long as four months without the mail, and knew 
nothing of the great world's happenings during that 
period. 

The grape growing industry, introduced upon Kellev's 
and the Bass Islands, finally extended to Pelee. D. J. 
Williams, Thomas Williams, and Thaddeus Smith of 
Kentucky purchased forty acres of Pelee land, planted a 
vineyard and established a wine cellar. This was the be- 
ginning of the island's real settlement. Mr. Smith moved 
his family to Pelee and took control, as manager of that 
which became known as the "Vin Villa Vineyards." The 
Williams brothers died some years later and Mr. Smith 
became sole owner. He also became a naturalized Cana- 
dian citizen and a permanent resident of the island. 

Edward and John Wardloper, Englishmen by birth 
who had lived in the South, came also to Pelee Island in 
1866, attracted thither by the excellent bass fishing around 
the island, and fine hunting privileges in the woods, and 
marshes. They bought a large tract of land, which was 
cleared and put out to grapes. 

A small general store — the first on the island — was 
opened by Charles McCormick on the south side of the 
island; but the population proved too small to make the 
enterprise profitable. 

A small steamer was placed upon the route between 
the island and Sandusky, but did not prove a paying 
proposition and was discontinued, and sail and rowboats 
again afforded the only connection between island and 
mainland. 

A large summer hotel was built, but the projectors be- 
came discouraged before it was fully completed, though 



Pt. Au Pelee Island 269 

it was afterwards occupied by a few summer guests, 
together with parties of bass sportsmen who came to fish. 

The MeCormick brothers built an extensive dock on 
the south shore, but the devastating storms got in their work 
and it was washed away. It was rebuilt, but again suc- 
cumbed to the force of the waves. The efforts made to 
develop the island were thus confronted by difficulties on 
every hand. 

In 1890 extensive wine cellars were built on the island 
by J. S. Hamilton, of Ontario. 

In 1870 a public school board was elected, and two 
schoolhouses built, A post office and a general merchandise 
store were also established. 

A stone church edifice was erected by adherents of the 
"Church of England" and a steamboat line finally estab- 
lished between the island and Canadian ports. More 
docks were built, thus providing for the landing and pro- 
tection of boats large and small. 

Later, the island was divided into four school districts ; 
and four new and attractive school buildings were added 



One of the Pelee Island Canals 



270 Pt. An Pclec Island 

to island improvements, while the population had increased 
to the number of six hundred or more. 

The drainage of the marshlands which covered one- 
half of the island in 1888 and 1889— a feat of engineering 
skill — marked the most important era in the history of 
the island. These marshes were almost on a level, it is 
said, with the lake, and were filled with the densest 
growths of wild vegetation. Their waters bred mosqui- 
toes, deer flies, and malaria, rendering life in their vicinity 
almost unbearable. An account of this big undertaking 
as given by Thaddeus Smith, as here annexed, makes 
interesting reading. 

"Tn 1878, Lemuel S. Brown, formerly of Cleve- 
land, Ohio, became interested in Pelee Island and bought 
625 acres of land on the east side, being that part of the 
island locally known as "Middle Island," entirely 
separated from the other upland by marshes, and contain- 
ing within its centre a marsh of several hundred acres. 
Mr. Brown had already been the promoter of various enter- 
prises on other neighboring islands. He had a long lease 
upon Middle Island property, and at one time was the 
owner of Ballast Island — that beautiful little island that 
lies at the entrance to the harbor of Put-in-Bay, and was 
also engaged in dock building at Put-in-Bay. He came to 
Pelee Island and made the purchase already mentioned, 
purposing to engage in general farming, paying special at- 
tention to stock raising and the planting of vineyards, and 
inducing a number of Germans to settle on the land for 
that purpose. It so happened shortly after Mr. Brown 
came that there were two or three unusually dry seasons 
in succession, drying up the water in the marshes, leaving 
some of the marsh land quite high and dry. Brown had 
some of this plowed and sowed in tame grasses. The next 



Pt. Au Pelee Island 271 

spring, the season having the usual amount of rainfall, he 
found his cultivated fields two feet under water ; and it 
continued to be covered with water for some years. But 
the experiment had convinced him of the great fertility of 
the soil and of its immense possibilities if it could be 
throughly drained. Its drainage became a hobby with him. 
During his visits to Put-in-Bay he had met Dr. John M. 
Scudder, of Cincinnati, Ohio, who, with his family, spent 
the summer vacation at the Bay. Dr. Scudder was the 
founder, owner and president of the Eclectic Medical Col- 
lege of Cincinnati and was a man of wealth. Mr. Brown 
soon communicated to him his hobby of draining the 
Pelee Island marsh, and as the doctor had traveled in 
Europe and was particularly interested in the drainage 
system of Holland, he soon, became interested in Brown's 
project also and made a visit with him to Pelee Island 
This visit of Dr. Scudder resulted in his determination to 
buy the marsh land and undertake the enterprise of re- 
claiming it for agricultural purposes by an artificial 
system of drainage. Dr. Scudder and Mr. Brown bought 
the whole of the "Big Marsh" with the wet timbered land 
adjoining it as per survey and plan of the island, in all 
over 4000 acres, for which they paid the McCormicks two 
dollars per acre. In 1888 steam dredges were put to work 
cutting canals through the marsh to the extent of twelve 
miles in length. These canals conducted the water all to 
one point where a steam pumping plant was erected that 
lifted it several feet and emptied it into the lake. The 
water thus taken oflP, the land was left dry and ready 
for the plow. The plowing was not done, however, without 
much ditficulty, owing to the heavy growth of weeds and 
rushes, tussoc-grass and roots. But enterprise and capital 
can accomplish much. Those who saw the mqrsh before it 



272 



Pt. Au Pelee Island 



was reclaimed now look upon its cultivated fields with 
astonishment. The soil of this reclaimed land is very rich, 
a clay subsoil with from one to two feet of vegetabh' mould. 
It is very productive of hay, corn and potatoes, and, where 
not too rich, yields good wheat and oats. On parts of it, 
are growing vineyards and good peach orchards, 

"The draining of the Big Marsh and the IMiddle 
Island marsh was followed by the draining of the South 
marsh of 470 acres, by Messrs. Dwelle and Lewis of 
Sandusky, Ohio, who bought it along with a farm of 300 
acres of upland. 

"The drainage of this marsh land has proven a matter 
of the greatest importance to the island. It has more than 




West Side Pumping Station 

doubled the amount of arable land, thus more than dou- 
bling the agricultural products and making room for a 
larger population. This increases trade and the volume of 
business, which in turn brings boats and better facilities 
for communication with the outside world. It has greatly 



Pi. All Pelec Island 273 

improved the sanitary conditions, drying up the malarial 
area. It has destroyed the breeding places of mosquitoes, 
dieting tlies and snakes, until there are but few remaining. 
The embankments made by the earth thrown out of the 
canals furnish excellent roadbeds and have become a part 
of the public road system of the municipality. ' ' 

Owing to restrictions placed upon it by the Canadian 
Government, commercial fishing is not as remunerative 
as it was in earlier days; but the island waters have long 
been famous for their fine bass fishing. 

Pelee Island of today boasts her freedom from insect 
pests, snakes, and malaria, through drainage of her marsh- 
lands, now covered with garden and farm products, corn, 
wheat, and pasture fields. Especially suited to potatoes 
is this reclaimed land, producing thousands of bushels of 
the finest grade. Tobacco in large quantities is also 
produced. 

The government maintains a signal station, weather 
bureau and life-saving station on the island. Three gen- 
eral merchandise stores do profitable business. A hotel, 
a fine club house, two public halls, four churches, four 
schoolhouses, four substantial docks, are noted. Steam- 
boat connection with the mainland, mail service, summer 
and winter, four postoffices, a large area of vineyard, and 
orchard lands, quarries of fine building stone, a system 
of canals, and dykes, with miles of excellent roads, and a 
population numbering nearly 1000, are among modern 
accessions. A telephone calile connects the island with the 
Canada main ; oil and natural gas in limited quantity have 
also been struck. Such in brief is the history of the is- 
land's past vicissitudes, and subsequent prosperity. 



Pelee Island Fishini>; Club. 



"Point Sheridan," on Pelee Island's northern shore, 
forms the location of a club honse built in the "eighties,'' 
that has since become Avidely known, its membership in- 
cluding some of the wealthiest and most influential men 
in the country. This organization, known as the Pelee 
Island Fishing Club, represents an aggregation of brains, 
and capital, such as could scarce be found elsewhere in any 
similar organization. 

The Pelee club house is a commodious building, or 
combination of buildings, and is pleasantly situated among 
sheltering trees, commanding a magnificent view of the 
North channel waters, with the blue line of the Canadian 
mainland low belting the horizon. The structure is lighted 
with gas, and provided with water supply; and its ap- 
pointments are all that the most fastidious could desire in 
a summering place — elegance and luxury, combining with 
comfort and convenience, to render the place an ideal 
resort. Semiannually the club members hold here a two 
weeks' reunion, taking a hand at rod, and trolling line, 
and entertaining as invited guests many prominent people. 
They pay out large sums of money for boats and oarsmen, 
and leave considerable money on the island for supplies. 

Concerning the early formation of this club, a Pelee 
islander tells the following : 

"In the fall of 1879 a party of young men from 
Sandusky and Cincinnati, composing a fishing party, en- 
camped at the north end. A severe storm came up, blew 
down their tents and flooded them out. They came to 

(274) 



Pclee Island Fishing Club 277 

Mrs. Thaddeus Smith and begged to he taken in out of the 
storm, being sick of tenting it. Among these was Charles 
L. Mills of Sandusky, who continued to put up with Mrs. 
Smith for four or five years, spring and fall. Mr. Mills 
met a fellow-fisherman, Mr. John Maginis, Jr., of New York 
City, who, with a party of friends was stopping at Dr. 
IMcCormick's. Mr. Maginis told Mr. Mills that they wished 
to organize a fishing club with a permanent location of 
their own and invited him to join them. The club was 
organized, and the site for the house selected at the extreme 
Northwest end, the very place where i\Iills and his young 
friends had camped years before. In 1883 the Club House 
was erected and their first meeting was held that fall. 
John jMaginis, Jr., was made President and Charles L. 
Mills, Vice President and General Manager of the club's 
business." 

Included in the membership list, in earlier years, were 
the names as given below : Judge Walter P. Gresham, who 
was Secretary of State under Pres. Cleveland; Benjamin 
Campbell, Ex-Marshal of Illinois j J. R. Jonts, former 
]\Iinister to Brussels; Col. V. C. Turner, of Chicago; Robert 
T. Lincoln, Ex.-Pres. Arthur, Gen. Schofield, Gen. Phil. 
Sheridan, INlarshall Field, and George Pullman of Chicago. 

With the reorganization of the club, many of the new 
members added were prominent Cincinnati residents. 
Cincinnati, in fact, leads in point of membership at the 
present time. Present officers of the club are as follows: 
Pres., Hon. Thomas B. Paxton ; Vice Pres., Joseph S. 
Peebles; Secy., Alfred Hill; Treas., B. W. Campbell, all of 
Cincinnati. 



278 Pelee Island Fishing Club 

A BATCH OF UP-TO-DATE FISH STORIES TOLD BY 
WELL-KNOWN ADEPTS OF THE ANGLING ART. 

The foregoing symposium of truthful tales has been 
arranged expressly for this work, from contributions 
kindly tendered by members of the famous Pelee Island 
Fishing Club in response to special and personal invita- 
tion. — Author. 

FISHING WITHOUT A HOOK. 

In May, 1898, I was asked by Mr. Leroy Brooks, a 
prominent member of the ^liddle Bass Club, to help enter- 
tain President Cleveland and Admiral Robley D. Evans, 
and I did my best to make it pleasant for them. 

In the party were Governor Harmon, Ex-Governor 
Charles Foster, John Uri Lloyd, the celebrated author, 
Mr. Edward Dwight, brother-in-law of Mr. Brooks, and 
Mr. Shaw, the millionaire dry goods merchant of Dayton, 
Ohio, and Mr. Rutherford, our caretaker, was also on 
several fishing trips. 

I remember one incident that might be worthy of 
notice. 

Mr. Cleveland had ]\[r. Lloyd as partner that day and 
it rained cats and dogs and we fished with no success for 
many hours, for the gamy small-mouth black bass. 

Mr. Cleveland said to jMr. Lloyd: "Mr. Lloyd, you 
have not caught a fish. Why don't you look at your bait?" 
and he pulled up his line and sure enough there was no 
hook on his line. 

Mr. Cleveland said : ' ' How can you expect to catch 
fish without any hook. ' ' 

This is true and Mr. Lloyd, who is still living, can 
confirm it. 



Pelee Island Fishing Club 279 

PHENOMENAL LUCK. 

On the same trip, but a different day, Admiral Evans 
was the partner of President Cleveland, as they were great 
cronies and intimate friends and both were good company. 

I had with me the late James A. Collins, my most 
intimate friend, who was killed the past year by a street 
car in Avondale. 

I said: "Jim, I am going to have some fun." As 
we only caught three fish all day and I had those three 
dead fish put on my line and I told my oarsman, Ralph 
Hammond, to be sure and put them on securely, because 
I was going to play them for some time and, just as we ap- 
pro.ijhed the tug on which the balance of the party was 
waiting for us, I jumped up in the boat and played those 
three dead fish until I was afraid they would get off and 
when we were within 100 feet of the tug I pulled up one, 
two, three, and everybody was looking and when I landed on 
the tug Mr. Cleveland said: "Mr. Peebles, I have heard 
about your prowess as a fisherman and I believe it. I saw 
you catch two fish at a time yesterday and today three. 
"Will you kindly tell me what kind of bait you use?" 

I said: "Mr. Cleveland, step away to the other end 
of the boat, as I do not want these men to hear it. I 
played you for a sucker and I landed you. Those last 
three fish were dead fish." 

He laughed until the tears ran down his cheeks and 
when he went to Castalia to fish for trout he wrote me a 
letter which I have under glass. 

He said in this letter: "I had a delightful time with 
you at Middle Bass, but we had great luck at Castalia 
catching a number of trout and some of them were mon- 
sters, 13 pounds to 14 pounds in weight, a few ounces more 



280 



Pelec Island Fishinn CJub 



or less will make no difference ; but I confess I did not 
catch three at a time like you did at Gull Keef." 

So 1 must have certainly made an impression on the 
old gentleman, one of the finest men who ever sat in the 
AVhite House Chair. 

Joseph S. Peebles. 




A Double Catch 



SHOAVING HIM THE WAY TO HEAVEN. 

A Sandusky minister, who had been invited by our 
old friend Peebles to visit the Pelee Fishing Club, was 
walking along the water front and noticed a boy fishing 
from the dock. He asked the boy if he could tell him how 
he could get to the Pelee Club. The boy said, "Yes, sir; 
I will go with you and show you the dock where the 'Al- 
fred Clarke' lands." So fastening his rod to the dock, 
he went with the minister to the coaling dock and ex- 
plained to him that the "Clarke" left from that dock at 
3 o'clock that afternoon and would land him at Scudder's 



Pelee IsJaud Fishing Club 281 

Dock, Pelee Island, and he would find the Clnb House only 
a short distance from Scudder's. 

The minister was very much pleased with the special 
effort the boy had made to show him the way to Pelee, and 
when he returned to Sandusky the next J\Ionday, he no- 
ticed the same boy fishing on the dock again and he walked 
over to the boy and said: "IMy young man, you were so 
very kind in showing me the way to Pelee Club the other 
day that I want to thank you again, and if you will call 
at my study any day between 10 and 11 o'clock in the 
morning, I will be glad to show you the way to heaven." 
The boy looked at the minister in a rather doubtful way 
and said: "Ah! go on and stop your kidding, you didn't 
know the way to Pelee." 

Frank W. Furry. 

REMINISCENCES OF PELEE CLUB. 

The Rescue. 

The boys started out for a day's fishing and a cold 
rain set in ; but they were having such good luck that they 
did not come in until towards evening. I did not go out 
that day; but, when I saw them coming home, I requested 
Parker to build up a huge wood fire in the fireplace and 
then had him bring a bottle of Scotch, plenty of hot water 
and sugar and congratulated myself on having been the 
means of saving the lives of the entire party. 

The Big Catch. 

We have a rule at the Club that no fishing shall be 
done on Sunday and it is strictly adhered to ; but the big- 
gest catch that we ever had occurred on Sunday morning 



282 Pelee Island Fishing Cluh 

on the Club veranda, with a full attendance. The line was 
held by Furry and was baited with a wild Western story 
and Hill grabbed it so quick that no one else had a chance 
to bite. He was the one we were after and he swallowed 
the hook and all and would have taken the reel, if there 
had been one attached. After the excitement had subsided, 
Hill took me one side and asked me confidentially why 
Furry and I had selected him for the victim. I told him 
that we had discussed the matter on the way from Chicago 
and we had decided that if we could land him it would be 
the biggest catch that we had ever made. 



Good Fellowship. 

Among so many good fellows it is difficult to single 
out any one for special mention, but I cannot refrain from 
naming Joe Peebles, whose heart is as big as his body and 
so generous that he doesn't know when he is doing you a 
kindness, and I shall never forget his welcome smile that 
always greets us on arrival at the Club. 

Old Pelee, Old Pelee, 
I love your sunny shores, 
The luncheons we have eaten, 
The lies about the scores, 
Old Lewis with his Coffee Pot, 
The Bass and Bacon all red hot, 
The recollections ever dear 
As we look forward to another year. 
Maple Farm. Charles D. Ettinger. 

August 11th, 1912. 



Pelee Island Fishing Cluh 283 

A PELICAN FISHERMAN. 

When Commodore Perry and his brave crews were 
paying their respects to the British fleet in Lake Erie 
waters, an occasional pelican visited the islands to replen- 
ish his "sack," when on a migratory tour. Labe Pelee, 
one of the pioneers of the Northwest Territory, relates this 
experience while fishing along the shores of Pnt-in-Bay 
Island: It was an ideal fisherman's day. the wind com- 
ing from the south and the black bass were more numer- 
ous than they are today. Labe cast his line about where 
the lighthouse now stands; as soon as the bait touched the 
water it was "struck" by a three-pound bass which was 
safely landed. Without waiting to string the bass, Labe 
made another cast, with the same results. In his excite- 
ment and anxiety to "make hay while the sun shined" he 
kept on casting until he had landed a half bushel of beau- 
ties, Avhich he threw back over a small sand dune, A half 
hour later when he had exhausted the "school," he un- 
rolled his stringer and stepped back to pick up the catch, 
and, to his amazement, no bass were in sight. A earefid 
search failed to reveal a single fish and Labe went back 
home broken-hearted. Upon arriving, his fifteen year old 
son was exhibiting to the family a string of bass that 
would charm the soul of all true disciples of Izaak Walton. 
Labe thought he recognized some of them by spots and ac- 
cused the son with theft, but the boy stoutly denied the ac- 
cusation and insisted that he had caught them with his 
gun. "How could you catch fish with a gun?" demanded 
the enraged father. "That story won't go with me, you 
little rascal." "Yes, it will. Dad, and I'll show you how 
I done it. Come* with me," and the boy led the way to a 
spot on the opposite side of the island where lay a dead 



284 Pelee Ishnid FhliUKj Cluh 

jx'liean. "You see, Dad, I spotted this pelican standing 
over so his sack laid on the ground and it was so heavy T 
wanted to see what was in it, so I gist blazed away and 
hit him square in the head and when I ripped open 
his sack, all them bass slid out of it." Labe smilingly 
remarked, "Well, I'll be gol-derned if that damn pelican 
didn't gobble up all my fish. Am glad you got him, son. 
He'll never steal my bass agin." 

Pelee Reporter. 

THE STORM AT PELEE— Saturday, 3 P. M., May 15, 

1909. 

It was an ideal fisherman's day, the bass were raven- 
ous and the sport was at its best in mid-afternoon, when 
the southwestern sky commenced to thicken and the 
timid were attacked with a peculiar homesickness and in- 
sisted upon returning to the Club. 

The persistent fisherman demurred and much valuable 
time was lost. In the meantime, the storm was gathering 
in force and the whole western sky looked angry and out 
of joint ; the motor boats, forced to their limit, gave out 
sounds like Fourth of July fireworks exploding under a 
keg; the conversation was carried on in whispers in order 
that the speed might not slacken ; anxious faces peered to 
the w^estward where the two hostile storm clouds halted, 
ready for the fray; "Lighthouse Point" was safely rounded 
and the boats pointed their noses direct for the Club House 
four miles distant. The white fleecy clouds stood in battle 
array, ready to advance, while the palefaced fishermen 
were thinking of "Home Sweet Home." Suddenly the 
Club House, now two miles away, disappeared, the light- 
ning started the heavenly artillery, the black legions ad- 
vanced and the fury of the elements was unloosed. Captain 



Felee Island Fishing Club 285 

Tom gave command to the pilots to hug the shore, or any- 
thing else in sight, and make for Scudder's Dock. Captain 
Webster also changed his course and with the gas cock 
wide open, crowded his little craft through the troubled 
waters with all the speed at her command. The fleet was 
two hundred feet from the dock when the deluge of rain 
came down, the engines gave up the fight and not a wheel 
revolved. To the oars!! was the next command, and the 
oarsmen bowed their backs and struggled for the masterly. 
"We are safe," cried the Captain as the tiny craft bumped 
the pier. Like rats from a sinking ship the fishermen 
scrambled to places of safety. The danger, however, was not 
yet over; the hurricane was augmented by a volley of hail 
and all were in danger of being swept from the dock into 
the sea. After a time the drenched fishermen lined up on 
the lee side of the dock house and contemplated with hor- 
ror the fate of the two tows that steered straight for the 
Club. There they stood, glad that hey still lived, and full 
thirty minutes passed before it occurred to the fishermen 
that they were standing under the eaves and getting a 
double portion of the two inches of water that fell. Col. 
Paxton was the only one in the party whose mental equilib- 
rium enabled him to make this discovery, and even he was 
so far gone that he actually abandoned his fishing tackle, 
hired a wagon and started to the Club by the Overland 
Route. Jo Carew adjourned to a half finished stable, but 
couldn't find a spot between leaks to shelter himself. 
Alfred Hill attempted to smoke to see if his lungs were in 
working order, after vainly trying to yell for help. Camp- 
bell lost his voice and was just like other people. Champ- 
ney commenced telling the truth about the fish he had 
caught. IMcFarland had to be forcibly restrained from 
leaning against the dock house and pushing it into the 



286 Pelee Island Fishing Club 

lake. McLaughlin, by a happy coincident, had dropped 
his flask into the lake and was resigned to his fate, as the 
"goods" would not be found among his assets, should the 
lightning select him as a victim. Teddy retained hi« 
composure, as his "indulgence" had still a week to run 
and no raindrop was too small for him to split. Early 
crawled under the hood of the motor boat where the light- 
ning couldn't find him. Commodore was busy gathering 
up his poles and trying to keep his mind off the storm — he 
is so accustomed to water that getting drenched had but 
little effect upon him. 

After the storm had spent its fury, suspended reason 
again asserted itself and, at the suggestion of one of the 
oarsmen, the rain-soaked fishermen opened the dock house 
door and invited themselves to enter. The two tows, that 
resolved to reach the Club House or die, came near 
dying; without compass, and unable to see the shore, they 
drifted with the wind. Ettinger resolved that he would 
tell no more stories for two days and wouldn't have told 
so many if the crowd hadn't made him do so. As he gazed 
at the motionless w'heel, his fingers made a feeble effort to 
"Count his beads.'' Furry 's mind wandered back to the 
Match factory and discussed with itself the question — 
"Does the sulphur possess the same activity in the other 
world that it does in this? Or is there a power somewhere 
that tempers the elements to the shorn lamb ? ' ' 

Lowman threw his hat overboard as an act of penance, 
but Jove howled louder and shot his hail with greater force. 
Rankin was too weak to move, but was heard to mutter 
something about who will sail the "Perry" after me. 
Calcutt w^as in deep meditation and requested that if there 
should be a survivor in the party that his remains be al- 
lowed to rest in front of the Club House and over them be 



Pelee Island Fishing Club 287 

erected a shaft of wood with a summit of nickels. Yeiser 
moaned: Oh! Norwood, Norwood, thou art so near and yet 
so far; must I suffer all this for one little bass? Webbs' 
hair tried to turn white but there wasn't enough of it to 
"call the turn," and he remained stationary. Heekin and 
Webber were among the saved, but there are no authenti- 
cated reports concerning them, except that on reaching the 
dock they swam across the lawn to the Club House. Judge 
Sayler, who never ventures over thirty feet from the shore, 
was rescued from a watery grave by the waitresses who 
caught him in a landing net, but before pulling him out, 
exacted a promise that he would immediately withdraw 
from the Bachelors' Club. Ed. Miller and Drury were 
found interred in the wreckage of their boat and in an 
unconscious condition. 

Thus ends the sad story of the storm-bound fishermen. 
They were all saved and all resolved never to go to sea 
again, bass or no bass, if a cloud as large as a man's hand 
was visible. 

Pelee Reporter. 

SAME OLD STORY. 

A Chicago sportsman, who is always boasting about 
his big catches of fish, came to grief recently and the grief 
is likely to last a full year, which makes the situation 
really painful. Whenever he steps inside the front door, 
his wife is seen to clap her hands over her mouth to prevent 
an explosion that cannot otherwise be controlled. It is 
real mean of her, but she says she absolutely cannot help 
it, and until a funeral occurs in the family or there is a 
great religious revival in town, she will not be able to look 
serious. The origin of the grief as told by the victim, him- 
self, is as follows : 



288 Pelee Island Fishing Cluh 

When starting upon a recent fishing trip he promised 
to bring a mess of bass for a number of his friends, in ad- 
dition to a week's supply for his own family. As usual, 
the blamed bass would not bite, at least they wouldn't 
swallow his hook, and he came back with the same number 
of bass he started with. In order to keep up his home 
reputation and not disappoint his family, he called up his 
grocer and said: "Send out to my house at once a dozen 
of your best bass." "All right," came the response. Upon 
arriving at home he was greeted as usual by his wife, who 
asked, "What luck, my dear?" "First rate." said he. 
"W'eren't the bass I brought home lieauties?" "Why, I 
haven't seen any bass yet," she replied, "but I think I 
now understand the situation, the grocer did bring out a 
dozen bass, but it was Bass Ale!" 

The Pelee Reporter. 

PELEE SNAKES— THE VERY LATEST. 

There are numerous snakes on Pelee Island, but of the 
harmless kind known as "Garter Snakes," The pioneers 
using them for garters suggested the name. These snakes 
are all spiritualists, having the power to lie ciuietly in 
the sun while digesting a toad and at the same time send- 
ing their spirits into the spirits of human beings who have 
been partaking freely of "spirits." Their presence in the 
human spirit is as real in effect as if the snake's 
body actually accompanied the snaky spirit in 
its meanderings. A case in point occurred at the 
Pelee Club in the fall fishing season of 1910, when 
one of the members had fished diligently all day with poor 
success and to dull the feeling of disappointment partook 
somewhat freely from a quart bottle, which was tied with 
a stringer to the stern of the boat, allowing it to sink 



Pelec Island Fishing Cluh 



•r^<) 



about one foot under water, the action being somewhat 
similar to that of a homemade refrigerator. It is custoii a^'v 
with all real sportsmen to dry their fishing lines at the 
close of the day's sport, to preserve them. The member 
referred to was a little bit ni^steady upon his supports but 
managed to lay his rod in the front yard and unreel enough 
line to reach a neighboring sugar maple fifty feet distant. 
The "fly" hook was caught behind a piece of bark on the 
opposite side of the tree and the three remaining hooks 
dangled loosely in the breeze. The brilliant color of the 
"fly" attracted the attention of a domesticated squirrel 
which happened to be perched upon a lower limb observ- 
ing the surroundings, and which managed to fasten one of 
the hooks in the fleshy part of its tail, causing it to 
scamper up the tree drawing the line and hooks after it. 
Our spirited friend observed the reel spinning and the 
line running out, but its running up a tree instead of out 
into the nearby lake was an unusual phenomena and after 




Remarkable Adventure of Bass Fishermen — Drawn by Davies 



290 Pclee Island Fishing Cluu 

trying to comprehend the situation a moment he called to 
his companion saying, "Come here quick, Parker, the 
trees are full of fish, take me to my room ; I 'm going to 
heve 'em sure ! ' ' 

The Pelee Reporter. 

Mr. Joseph S. Peebles, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
My dear Joe : — 

Yours of yesterday received. I can't give you a fish 
story, because I never do any lying except in a poker game. 
Believe no tales that the fishers tell. 
They're all good men, and they all n can well. 
But it's nature's plan, and it never fails. 
There's something fishy in all fish tails. 

Yours very truly, 
H. C. Yeiser. 

P. S. The above is not original — I stole it; but if you 
can put it over, all right. 

Cincinnati, Sept. 6th, 1912. 

It may be of interest to "Fish Stcry" lovers to learn 
that the individual who basks under the vom de plume 
"Pelee Reporter," is Mr. I. N. IMiller, Supt. Wester.-i 
Union Telegraph Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. — Author. 

LETTERS WRITTEN BY GROVER CLEVELAND TO 
A MEMBER OF PELEE ISLAND FISHING CLUB. 
Through the kindness of Joseph S. Peebles, in permit- 
ting their use, two letters written this gentleman by the 
late President Grover Cleveland, are here reproduced in 
his own handwriting. ]Mr. Peebles is vice president of th.^ 
Pelee Club, and highly prizes these letters, which are under 
glass. 










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WESTUANO. 

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N E W -J ERSEY. 



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Memories of Jay Cooke and Grlimpses 
of His Island Stronghold. 



Before any habitation of human build graced the 
shores of Gibraltar Island, or the hand of art had added 
embellishments to the manifold charms conferred therein by 
Nature, two graves were there made among the rocks and 
sheltering trees. They were marked by two Mooden head- 
boards inscribed respectively as f(^rows: 

"James Ross— Died August 11th, 1848." 
'STohn Elliott— Died Sept. 18th, 1848." 

How these two individuals, of whom the islanders 
have no record, came to be laid in that secluded spot where 
no others were buried, formed a mystery to early comers, 
as it did to those who arrived later. No one knew from 
whence these adventurers came, nor how they chanced to 
find graves on the little isle. An old-time journalist who 
visited Gibraltar, and saw the two mounds, and their head 
markings, thus comments: 

"It would be hard to conceive of a more retired or 
romantic resting place. The noise of the great outer world 
scarce reaches the spot where they lie; but, like the waves 
of the lake, breaks at the shore, and passes by. 

"Only chance visitors find their way to Gibraltar's 
rock-entrenched shores. Excepting the song of birds and 
the murmer of waves, with an occasional interlude of the 
angry storm that growls and rages grandly around and be- 

(305) 



306 Memories of Jay Cooke 

neath its i3ictured rocks, the resting place of these un- 
known sleepers remains undisturbed." 

This was long before Jay Cooke had sized up and 
settled upon Gibraltar as an ideal summer residence. It 
is a matter of no surprise that a man of Mr. Cooke's clear 
vision should have perceived the exceptional beauty and 
desirability of Gibraltar, to the extent of becoming its 
owner. 

Semiannually, for a period of perhaps thirty-five years, 
island dwellers were accustomed to the appearance in their 
midst of a visitor who came as regularly during the bass 
fishing season, spring, and fall, as does St. Nicholas at 
Christmastide. Almost as much of a patron saint he 
proved to the islanders ; for he came with pockets full of 
the "wherewithall," and a heart overflowing with benevo- 
lence. This individual was Jay Cooke, the Philadelphia 
"Napoleon of finance." He was widely known for the 
largeness of his possessions, and likewise noted for the 
financiering ability shown in the manipulation of the mil- 
lions at his disposal ; since to this ability the United States 
government in its sore financial straits during the War of 
the Rebellion, was largely indebted. 

At that time Jay Cooke was intimately associated in 
business and governmental trar sections with Secretary 
Chase of the United States treasury. Secretary Fessenden, 
his successor. President Lincoln and other government 
officials, and by his skillful management did more toward 
relieving and strengthening the administration at that time 
than any other man in America. 

At one time when the government Avas sorely pressed 
for the means wherewith to pay its military representa- 
tives in the field, the division known as the Army of the 
Potomac was paid off with money advanced by Jay Cooke, 




Jay Cooke 



Memories of Jay Cooke 



309 



who received in exchange United States bonds covering 
the amount. 

Of ]Mr. Cooke it is related that once, in company with 
Gen. Bates, Secretary Chase and President Lincoln, he 
went to see reviewed by Gen. JMcClelland the Pennsylvania 
Reserve corps, which to organize and equip he had ad- 
vanced the money. 

On another occasion hefcre the fall cf Richmond, Jay 
Cooke, Jr., visited Gen. Grant. Referring to Mr. Cooke's 
many favors to the government the latter observed : 

"I want you to tell your father for me, that it is to 
him more than to any other man that the people of this 
country will be indebted for the continued life of the 
nation." 

One of the great enterprises undertaken by ^Ir. Cooke 




Caverned Rocks, Gibraltar Island 



310 Memories of Jay Cooke 

was the building of the Northern Pacific railroad, but be- 
fore the work was fully begun, and the $50,000,000 bonds 
for the same deposited in Europe, the Franco-Prussian 
War broke out, and complications in European finances 
arising, forced Mr. Cooke into bankruptcy. To his credit- 
ors he turned over every dollar of his property, including 
his Philadelphia homestead and his summer residence at 
Gibraltar. However, through native sagacity, energy and 
enterprise, the unfortunate banker regained all that was 
lost, and was again upon his feet, having paid every dollar 
of his indebtedness. 

Of Puritan stock, some of Mr. Cooke's early ancestors 
figured on the records of Salem, Mass., where they resided. 
Members of the family distinguished themselves in the War 
of the Revolution, and later in that of 1812. 

The father of Jay Cooke, Eleuthores Cooke, was born 
in New York State. He became a lawyer of note, and was 
married in 1812 to the daughter of a patriot who fought 
under Washington. After marriage he removed to Ohio, 
locating on a site which afterwards became Sandusky, then 
a pioneer village, around which Indians still camped — 
Ogontz, the famous Seneca chieftain having a ledge near 
the Cooke residence. Ogontz and the youthful Jay be- 
came good friends, indeed. The latter never forgot his 
Indian companion; and when in after years he erected 
near Philadelphia a princely country residence, he named 
it "Ogontz," in memory of the chieftain, whose statue 
in bronze occupies a place in the main entrance hall. 

This splendid mansion was afterwards devoted by its 
owner to the purpose and usages of a young ladies' 
seminary. 

In 1844, Jay Cooke was married to Miss Dorothea 
Elizabeth Allen of Lexington, Ky., Miss Allen, it is said, 



Memories of Jay Coolie 313 

was a sister of Professor Allen, President of Allegheny 
College. 

Jay Cooke enjoyed that which has been termed, a 
"green old age,"' uniting with ripeness of experience a 
freshness of heart that never permitted him to grow old. 

Though called forth by its activities into the great 
swirl of business enterprise, and though the field of his 
operations centered in Philadelphia, Cooke never forgot 
his childhood's home, with its historic and romantic 
environments, and in early manhood purchased Gibraltar, 
most noteworthy of all Lake Erie's isles for the untamed 
beauty of its scenery. He erected a stately villa, which, 
crowning the island's tree-clad summit, has long formed 
an object of picturesque interest to visitors. 

Gibraltar Island is reached in a five minutes' row from 
Put-in-Bay docks. Silhouetted against the sky, its profile 
suggests that of its more lofty prototype, a resemblance 
which undoubtedly gave rise to the name which it bears. 

To really see the island and all its romantic scenery it 
is necessary to pull entirely around it. Go by moonlight 
or on days of sunshine when the ^\'ind slumbers, and every 
crag and clinging vine and drooping cedar are shadowed 
in the crystal clear waters. Such a cruise at such a time 
Avill form to the nature lover and beauty worshiper a 
source of pleasure unalloyed. 

Still another phase of beauty-uniting grandeur is ob- 
tained when the wind breezes stiff and breakers run high; 
when long tongues of surf leap from boulder to boulder, 
licking the shoreline, breaking into spray wreaths and rol- 
ling muffied thunder into the street caves and passages 
beneath the rocks. 

Lofty banks, foliage belted, pebbly beaches and pretty 
little bays, precipitous cliffs and rock masses cleft frojii 



314 Memories of Jay Cooke 

shore by prehistoric earthquakes, comprise a few of the 
scenic features of Gibraltar. The rock masses forming 
islands in miniature, are covered each with tufted bluebells 
and grasses, vines and mosses which, fastened into the 
crevices, flourish luxuriantly without a particle of earth. 

Special shore features at Gibraltar are known as the 
' ' Sphinx's Head, " " Fallen Kocks, " " The Needle 's Eye ' ' 
and "Perry's Lookout." The last mentioned, a beetling 
precipice crowned by a flagstaff, was the spot, according to 
historic record, from which Commodore Perry watched 
daily for the appearance of the enemy's squadron, preced- 
ing the battle of Lake Erie. 

Having circumnavigated the island, the visitor ap- 
proaches the landing and moors his boat by the side of 
numerous others which are lying at the ample docks in 
front of an artistically constructed bathhouse. From this 
point a gradually ascending walk leads upward along the 
island's slope to its summit, where, amid the exquisite 
blendings of natural beauty with artistic embellishment, 
stands the old villa, its massive tower and walls of gray 
stone showing picturesquely through drooping branches. 

A monument of chaste design, commemorating Perry's 
victory, occupies a conspicuous spot near "Perry's 
Lookout." A rustic summer house, bathing houses and 
pavilions, a cave down among the rocks, together with 
winding pathways and romantic nooks at every turn, con- 
spire to render the pace an ideal resort. 

Within the wide entrance hall of the mansion hang 
two valuable old paintings, both representations of the 
battle of Lake Erie. 

A large room in the base of the octagonal tower is 
used as a library, many cases filled with books appearing. 




Perry's Lookout" and the "Needle's Eye" — Photo by Niebergall 



Memories of Jay Cooke 317 

Two massive volumes of manuscript containing a history 
of Gibraltar are seen among the rest. The author, Rev. 
Harry Cooke, is a literary genius not only, but an artist 
as well, and his record of Gibraltar happenings varies in 
character from grave to gay, combining prose with poetical 
effusions of genuine merit. 

These volumes are copiously illustrated with original 
views photographed by himself at Gibraltar and in its vi- 
cinity, some of which are very spirited, showing in ar- 
rangement and detail the true artist. 

The parlors are furnished handsomely and in fault- 
less taste. Among the pictures adorning the walls is a 
novel and interesting photographic production represent- 
ing four generations of the Cooke family, all bearing the 
same name, designated as follows: Jay Cooke, Sr., Jay 
Cook, Jr., Jay Cooke the third. Jay Cooke the fourth, the 
latter an infant with long skirts, resting contentedly in 
the arms of its great-grandfather. 

Numerous resorts in the mountains of New England, 
and at the seashore, were spoken of as haunts frequently 
visited by the great financier; but it is doubtful whether 
any among the number found greater favor in his eyes 
than did Gibraltar Island. 

Mr. Cooke was an enthusiastic disciple of Izaak 
Walton, of black bass fishing he was especially fond, and 
his unrivalled success in the pursuit of this game fish won 
him renown among the island denizens. For his fishing 
cruises ]\Ir. Cooke usually chartered a tug, together with 
row boats, oarsmen, and ample provision and that he and 
members of his party, including the boatmen, had a good 
time, goes without saying. ]Most of the fish taken were 



318 



Memories of Jay Cooke 



given to the oarsmen, or divided into lots and distributed 
among the island people. 

From his first advent among them, the generosity of 
Jay Cooke was known and appreciated by the islanders. 
Black bass not only, but barrels of oysters in the shell — • 




St. Paul's R. E. Church, Put-in-Bay 



H » 




shipped to his order — loads of confections, and boxes of 
books, and pictures, were distributed among his Put-in-Bay 
acquaintances, young and old. There was hardly a family 
on the island in which some gift in the Avay of books and 
pictures, presented by Mr. Cooke, could not be found. 
These books were of different sorts, ranging from 
woi-ks of a religious character to the leading fiction of the 
day. 



Meynories of Jay Cooke 



319 



St. Paul's R. E. Church, Put-in-Bay, built many years 
ago by Mr. Cooke and given to the island people, was es- 
pecially remembered, members of the Sunday School re- 
ceiving gifts of various kinds. 

The family of Jay Cooke numbered four children, 
two sons and two daughters : Jay Cooke, Jr., Rev. Henry 
R. Cooke, Mrs. Charles Barney, and Mrs. Butler, all of 
whom have families of their own, and with them spend 
a portion of each summer at Gibraltar. Like his father. 




Window Presented St. Paul's R. E. Church by Mrs. Laura Cooke 
Barney, in IVlemory of Her Mother 



Mr. Jay Cooke, Jr., is a man of tact, sagacity, keen fore- 
sight, methodical business habits, and is closely occupied 
with business affairs. Rev. Henry E. Cooke is rector of 
St. Regis Church, Cleveland. 



320 Memories of Jay Coohc 

During the latter portion of his life, Jay Cooke took 
great interest in his grandchildren and in their welfare. 
Among the number were the six daughters of ]\Ir. and Mrs. 
Barney — all bright, intelligent girls, possessed of fine 
education and culture, together with a fondness for the 
water and out-of-door life senerallv. 



Captain John Brown, Jr. 



Among interesting characters who at different periods 
of its history have made the archipelago a temporary place 
of sojourn or a permanent home, is one well remembered 
both for personal traits and for the bearing npon naticnal 
events which his name suggests. This individual to whom 
attention is directed, in the following sketch, was Capt. 
John Brown, Jr., the eldest of a family whose records 
have become a thrilling and important part of the nation's 
history. The details of the Kansas troubles and the 
Harper's Ferry tragedy in which they so conspiciously 
figured are too well known to be touched upon in this con- 
nection, but a few glimpses of the every-day life, character 
and environments of its chief actors will undoubtedly 
prove of interest. 

For a number of years the writer lived in the imme- 
diate vicinity of Capt. John Brown's home, and Iniew him 
personally and well. 

It was in 1862, a few years after the execution of his 
father, that Capt. Brown located on Put-in-Baj'. This 
was before the island had become widely known as a sum- 
mer resort. It was then sparsely settled, and quite out of 
the way of ordinary travel and traffic, and its comparative 
isolation was probably one object which induced him to 
seek its shores, for at that time public feeling North and 
South was at flood-tide. The Browns had been hunted and 
haunted, and many rabid Southerners and Southern 
sympathizers still thirsted for the blood of the sons and 

(321) 



322 Captain John Broivn, Jr. 

allies of the martyred abolitionist, and their lives were en- 
dangered. 

At the outbreak of the war Capt. Brown entered the 
Federal service, but after twelve months' active duty be- 
came disabled and was forced to retire. 

In a beautiful, sequestered nook on the south shore of 
Put-in-Bay, Capt. Brown made him a home. He had 
never sought notoriety ; such a quest would have been 
foreign to his nature. He had nevertheless won it through 
unflinching adherence to that which he believed right, and 
through strenuous defense of the principles of liberty and 
humanity. Not only had he gained notoriety, but he also 
gained the warm friendship, admiration and esteem of 
some of America's trusted and best men, many of whom 
sought and found him in his solitude. "Hero worshipers" 
of all grades visited him, anxious to see and accord to him 
due honor. Among these were scholars, statesmen and 
philanthropists of national repute. On numerous occa- 
sions he was visited by individual representatives of the 
colored race, who in the old slave days had been aided by 
the Brown family in escaping from bondnge. 

All this might have inflated with lofty conceit an 
individual of less mental expansion, but Capt. Brown 
cared not for flattery. Less of self and more of humanity 
seemed the rule and purpose of his life. He Avas modest 
and unpretentious, never boasting of his exploits and 
seldom indeed referring to them. He revered honest toil, 
and though a man of education, culture and flne sensibil- 
ity, a close student and admirer of nature, with a decided 
literary and scientific trend, he chose to become a tiller of 
the soil and a grower of fruits. He labored early and late, 
spending leisure hours with his books, or in the society of 



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Captain John Brown, Jr. 32? 

3ongenial friends. He was especially interested in Geol- 
ogy, Phrenology and ]\letaphysical science. Geometry 
was also a hobby, and he taught at one time the science to 
a class of island young people. His views were broad, his 
opinions liberal. His only creed was — "The fatherhood 
of God; the brotherhood of man." Though possessing no 
clearly defined religious belief, his tendency was toward 
Spiritualism, and for a number of years he was accustomed 
to meet with a few spiritualistic investigators — residents 
of the island — to discuss with them the problems and 
possibilities of the life hereafter. 

A thorough humanitarian in every respect, he took a 
lively interest in philanthropic movements and reforms of 
every kind. He was fearless and unflinching in whatever 
he knew to be just and right, and having once taken a 
position could not be swayed therefrom. 

In his neighbors he evinced a friendly interest, shar- 
ing their joys, sympathizing with their griefs — and had for 
all whom he met in his daily walks a kindly word. 

He entertained a sincere appreciation of true worth — 
whether existing in the higher walks of life or struggling 
alone with poverty and obscurity. 

He was open as day — so free indeed was he from 
everything which flavored of hypocrisy that the petty 
deceits and conceits of little minds excited more than any- 
thing else his contempt. Such in brief was the character 
of Capt. John Brown, "who was the son of John Brown" 
■ — as has been significantly observed — or in other words, 
who inherited from his parent traits which made the 
former a martyr and hero. 

The wife of Capt. Brown was his congenial companion 
and helper ; a thrifty housekeeper, a successful homemaker, 
and an intelligent and cultured woman. 



3:^8 



Capfain Joint Broioi. Jr 




Wife of Captain John Brown 



Together they worked and in a few years were sur- 
rounded by all that combines to make a cheerful and a 
happy home. 

Active was he in every worthy work until heart 
disease began sapping the vigor of life, and for several 
years he was subject to attacks of great severity. On the 
day preceding his demise he had worked in his garden and 
was feeling better than usual, but when seated for the 
evening meal experienced a sudden attack. His wife led 
him to a rocking chair, where, after two hours of suffering, 
his spirit took its flight into the Great Unknown. 

He was buried in accordance with the rites of the 
^Masonic order, of which he was an honored representative, 
May 5th, 1895, and a poem from the pen of Prof. Coler, of 
Sandasky, commemorates the impressive rccasion in lines 
as follows : 



Captain John Brown, Jr. 329 

"Yonder on Erie's peaceful isle 
Amid the scenes he loved so well, 
"Was laid to rest the hero of a causu 
Of which all ages shall delight to tell." 

"Great he was in his simplicity, 

Great in his love for hnmanity, 

Great, because for nature's laws he stood. 

And dared to do, 
What others only dared to think." 

"Great, because his name we justly link 
Forever with the world's reformers, 
Great he was because for other's good 

He dared to be 
John the Baptist of Liberty." 

"Bright was the day. 
And sweet the breath of May, 
With opening buds and flowers ; 
Maple and oak 
In tender accents spoke 
Of him who slept beneath their bowers." 

"Cedar and pine, 

With voices soft and fine, 
Joined in the requiem of the dead ; 

The birds drew near. 

As if they wished to hear 
Every word that might be said." 

"Humbly he lived and earned his daily bread. 
By honest toil and with a cheerful heart. 
He sought for all things good and true; content 
Whate'er his lot might be, to do his part." 



330 Captain Jolin Brown, Jr. 

''Approach the silent mound, 
No monument is there, 
But nature whispers low. 
This epitaph in air." 

"Here rests beneath this sod 
Till resurrection's dawn, 
John Brown — the son of him 
Whose soul goes marching on." 

Those who participated in the funeral services of its 
owner will call to mind the roomy, hospitable dwel- 
ling, as it then appeared, with its open verandahs nestled 
deep amid native red cedars and orchard trees all in a 
glory of pink and white bloom ; the fenceless lawn, green 
stretching to the lake, and edging a beach of Avhite sand 
and flat rock against which beat the south channel waters; 
the fertile garden, with vineyard lands and a thick foli- 
aged grove of natural forest trees ; an old black horse, which 
for many years had served faithfully his dead master and 
friends, cropping leisurely the Maytime grasses; and 
Arbutus, Sweet "William, and other delicate wood blos- 
soms everywhere besprinkling the sod. From environ- 
ments such as these, John Brown, Jr., was carried to his 
last resting place. The dwelling is approached from the 
main road by a driveway deep bordered with red cedars, 
an ideal spot, such as a man like its late owner would 
naturally choose in which to live and die. 

Everything that could add to the attraction and com- 
fort of home was found within the dwelling — books, 
music, pictures and a fine collection of geological speci- 
mens and other curiosities. In one room still hangs an 
old family picture — portrait of John Brown, Sr. In an- 



Captain John Broivn, Jr. 



331 



other apartment — a memorial presented the family, repre- 
senting scenes from the life and adventures of John Brown 
all the way from Kansas and Harper's Ferry to his burial 
place among the picturesque hills of North Elba, New 
York. 

In a little building used as an office, which he called 
his "den," John Brown, Jr., kept some interesting family 
relics. The most interesting relic of the Brown family 
ever brought to Put-in-Bay, however, was the mummified 
remains of Watson Brown, who was killed at Harper's 




Office When a Justice of the Peace 



Ferry. Many years they had been preserved in a medical 
college, but were finally recovered by a friend of the 
Browns and sent to Put-in-Bay, where they w^ere viewed 
with great curiosity by many persons, and afterwards for- 



332 Captain John Brou-)i. Jr. 

warded to North Elba and buried by the side of old John 
Brown. 

Among the friends who honored John Brown, Jr., by 
their visits to his island home were the members of his o'd 
command — Co. A, Kansas Volunteer Cavalry, who met in 
a general reunion with their gallant captain. 

In local relations Captain Brown was recognized as 
a leader, and was frequently called upon to he id enter- 
prises of various kinds. 

Captain and Mrs. Brown had two children — a son and 
daughter — the son bearing his father's name. The daugh- 
ter, Edith, is an accomplished musician. She is tl:e wife 
of T. B. Alexander, who is an actor and present mayor ol: 
Put-in-Bay. 

Eloquent and beautiful words were spoken over Cap- 
tain Brown's grave in the little island cemetery, but the 




Burial Place of John Brown, Jr. 



Captain John Brown, Jr. - 333 

most tender and touching eulogy pronounced was perhaps 
that of his wife, as with tears in her eves she bent over his 
inanimate form, and gently stroking his hair, observed : 

"John was always a kind and loving husband." 

Put-in-Bay is notably honored in that she holds the 
grave of such a man — having yielded for that purpose one 
of the loveliest spots along the whole extent of her lovely 
shores. 

Having survived her husband several years, the wife 
of John Brown, Jr., died during the summer of 1911 at an 
advanced age. 

Mrs. Brown was an estimable woman, and her death 
was the occasion of deep grief to the remaining son and 
daughter; also to a wide circle of neighbors and friends, 
near and far. 



Owen and Jason Brown. 



Under the heading of histoiical characters may be fit- 
tingly placed the name of Owen Brown, a participator in 
the Harper's Ferry tragedy, son of its chief hero and a 
brother of Capt. John Brown, Jr. 

Owen Brown came to Put-in-Bay shortly after the 
execution of his father. His object in seeking the retire- 
ment here afforded at that time was owing partly to his 
love of seclusion, but more ostensibly to escape the intense 
animosity which the conspiracy to liberate the Southern 
bondsmen had engendered against the Brown family and 
their allies in pro-slavery circles. 

For over twenty years Owen made his home among the 
islands. He M'as unmarried, and, being much of a re- 
cluse, lived alone; at one time in a small house on the 
premises of his brother, Capt. John Brown, near the south 
shore of Put-in-Bay. At another time he wrs owner and 
occupant of a house and vineyard lands on the same island. 
His winters were sometimes spent at the deserted summer 
villa of Jay Cooke, on Gibraltar, of which he had been loft 
in charge by the owner. 

The writer cherishes a vivid remembrance of Owen 
Brown— as he appeared from time to time on the streets 
of the Bay village — and was once privileged to take him 
by the hand ; and on this occasion noted his kindliness and 
geniality of manner and the thoughtful and intelligent 
expression of his countenance. He A^^as tall and slender, 
having blue eyes and a full sandy beard, tinged with grey. 
He dressed plainly, his everyday wear being similar often 

(334) 



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Owen and Jason Broivn 337 

to that worn by workingmen ; but hoAvever rough his at- 
tire, it was always clean and neat, and the quiet courtesy 
and native refinement of the wearer stamped him unmis- 
takably as a gentleman. 

In his inquiries for the health and welfare of neigh 
bors he evinced the most friendly interest, while the de- 
tails of their afflictions or misfortunes elicited his warmest 
sympathy. The islanders, all of whom knew him well, 
remembered him with tender regard and recall his many 
virtues ; especially remarking his modesty, scrupulous 
honesty and generosity, the last mentioned amounting al- 
most to a fault. 

Accustomed as he was to frugality and economy, he 
yet saved little, because he could not resist the impulse of 
giving. At the island stores he was frequently known to 
purchase sugar, tea, coffee or other substantials, which he 
distributed among families known to be in need, while 
Indian meal made into bread formed the staple article of 
his own hard and homely fare. These small acts of kind- 
ness were but the outcroppings of sympathies, which in 
breadth and depth were measured only by the magnitude 
of human want and distress. The spirit of self-sacrifice 
that prompted the father to his death in behalf of an op- 
pressed people survived in the son and the life of Owen 
Brown, dating from the thrilling events of Harper's 
Ferry and the Kansas border to its closing struggle, was 
one long round of self-denial, which he practiced not as a 
painful penance, but as a means of the highest happiness. 
Though the friendliest of men, who would not harm a 
living creature for his own gratification, he was fearless 
and aggressive where the wrongs and grievances of others 
claimed redress. He aided his father in conveying fugitive 



o3S Owen and Jason Brown 

slaves from the Southern States to Canada, and in 1857 ac- 
companied him to Harper's Ferry. 

Owen never talked much of his personal adventures 
unless urged, or when drawn out by skillful questioning. 
AVhen he did consent to a repetition of his history, and be- 
came interested himself in a retrospection of past ex- 
periences, he talked readily, and was very precise in his 
descriptions and minute to the smallest details. The ac- 
count of his escape from Harper's Ferry after the capture 
of his father forms one of the most thrilling narrations of 
danger, hardship and privation ever recorded. Though 
lengthy, the narrative is unflagging throughout in interest, 
and would furnish material for a drama. The touching 
pathos of many of its scenes grapples irresistibly the heart 
chords and forces tears to the eyes. At other points there 
are touches of quaint, dry humor, which even the rehearsal 
of reminiscences so painful could not suppress. This 
story, and the calm deliberation with which it was told, 
is said to have impressed the listener with the conviction 
that Owen was a man of such make as old John Browa 
told the IMassaehusetts legislature he wanted with him, 
namely: "Men who fear God too much to fear anything 
human." 

With a reward of $25,000 upon his head, and minute 
descriptions of his person circulated over all the land; 
with the whole country on the alert, and bands of armed 
men and bloodhounds scouring in every direction, Owen 
with a small company of followers made his exit from 
Harper's Ferry, through ]\Iaryland and Pennsylvania, 
traversing mountain ranges, hiding in thickets by day and 
traveling at night, guided by the north star. ]\Iany times 
his pursuers were close upon him, but by some trifling cir- 
cumstance were thrown off the track. Twice was he 



Owen (1)1(1 Jason Broivn 339 

identified, but, as it chanced, by friendly eyes. Duivng 
the three weeks which occupied their escape, Owen and his 
men were frequently chilled by the cold November rains 
and snows which fell. They forded and swam swollen 
creeks and rivers ; climbed rugged mountain sides ; endured 
fatigues the most exhaustive, and slept in wet clothing 
under the open sky. 

They subsisted for the most part on hard, dry corn 
and raw potatoes, gathered from fields through which they 
passed. They had deemed it imprudent to visit any 
human habitation, but on one occasion, when driven to 
extreme measures, one of the number. Cook, by name, 
ventured to a farm house to buy provisions for the nearly 
famished party, and was captured. The next day, when 
on the outskirts of Chambersburg, lying among some 
bushes which concealed them, they heard the sound of 
martial music played by a band, as they afterward 
learned, which escorted Cook to the depot, and saw the 
train move away that bore him back to Harper's Ferry and 
the gallows. That Owen should have succeeded in eluding 
his pursuers seems almost miraculous, a feat which he 
nevertheless accomplished with the loss of but one man, as 
recorded. Physically disabled by the arduous campaigns 
through which he had already passed, Owen Brown was 
not eligible for military service at the outbreak of her re- 
bellion. Being of a literary cast, much of his time in later 
years was spent in reading, writing and in the study of 
nature. His eccentricities, mode of life and habits of 
thought were remarked as corresponding to those of Henry 
D. Thoreau. Though lacking the scholarly attainments of 
this gifted student and philosopher, Owen's delight in the 
most trivial objects in nature was parallel. 



.7iO Oif< n 0)1(1 Jason Broioi 

Subsequently, Owen Brown removed from Put-in-Bay 
to Pasadena, California, where, with his brother Jason, he 
took up his abode on a mountain of the Sierra j\Iadre range, 
a lonely summit afterwards named "ProAvn's Peak,'' 
where he spent the remainder of his eventful life. 

Previous to Owen's death, Jason had written to Joha 
BroAvn, Jr., at Put-in-Bay, eoncerning the oddities and ec- 
centricities of the former, complaining thereof somewhat, 
but in the letter, which gave a touching account of his 
brother's last hours, Jason says: 

"When I spoke of Owen's faults, I never once thought 
of my own, nor did I think of his good qualities, which so 
far outbalanced mine." 

Having occasion to visit a sister, ^Irs. Ruth Thomp- 
son, who lived in the valley below, and expecting to be 
absent some weeks, Owen had said "Good-bye" at starting. 
As Jason watched him down the precipitous iiath, the 
thought strangely occurred : 

"What if he never comes back alive?" 

Owen had often expressed a wish that at his death he 
might be buried on the peak, and as if following some un- 
accountable intuition, Jason cleared up a beautiful retired 
nook which he thou.ght might at son e time be nsed as a 
burial site. He broke the ground and sowed it to grass 
which, watered by rains and mountain dews, sprang up 
and in a short time covered the spot with a carpet of 
green. 

Owen never came back alive, but was carried up to 
the steep mountain side in his casket, followed by a large 
concourse of mourners, among whom were men of the first 
rank as scholars and statesmen. Owen had died of an at- 
tack of pneumonia at the home of his sister; and though 



Oif< )i cnid Jason Brown 341 

the city of Pasadena offered an eligible lot in her well 
kept and exclusive cemetery for his burial, the wish of the 
departed was remembered, and Jason made the grave be- 
neath a mountain tree in the quiet green nook prepared 
by the deceased. Said Jason: "I never could have gone 
back to my lonely claim upon the Mountain had Owen been 
buried elsewhere ; but since it holds his grave, I am con- 
tent." 

As if lower earth were too cold and damp — too densely 
permeated with the malaria of human wrong, and wretch- 
edness, Owen thus sought a place in the upper atmosphere, 
nearer Heaven, where amidst freedom untrammelled he 
found a ''Pisgah" top upon which he lived; and at death 
was buried — like Moses — within its solemn and impressive 
environments. 



Bent by age and crippled by rheumatism, an old man 
with flowing white beard and hair cut a noticeable figure 
on the island, one day. He had been rusticating through 
woody haunts and carried on his arm a basket filled with 
small sprouts of the red cedar — suitable for transplanting 
— together with other wild products that had appealed to 
his fancy. Though attired in a working shirt of blue dril- 
ling, there was something in the speech as well as in the 
refined, intellectual features of the stranger that distin- 
guished him as a man above the average. 

At a well beside w^hich stood a woman pumping water 
the man had stopped to ask for a drink. 

"Lime water, I suppose?" he queried as she handed 
him a glassful. 

"Yes, the island produces nothing but lime water." 

"It's good," he replied, returning the glass. 



342 Oti'cn and Jason Brown 

"You must be a stranger on the island," observed the 
woman. 

"Yes; I'm just here for a little visit. I live at Akron, 
Ohio. I like Put-in-Bay better than any other place in 
Ohio, but I stay in Akron so as to be near my lot." 

"So you own a lot there?" 

"Yes, a lot in the cemetery. I spent one winter on 
Put-in-Bay but got the rheumatism so bad that I thought 
I'd better not try it again." 

"And your name?" 

"My name is Brown — Jason Brown." 

The stranger proved, in fact, to be the last surviving 
son of old John Brown of Harper's Ferry tragedy — now 
along in the eighties. 

"I've read many thrilling sketches of your family 
history," observed the woman. 

"We're not worth a history," he returned. 

He carried in one hand a long, pronged garden hoe 
that he had used in digging up the plants and that served 
him also as a walking stick. 

By way of illustrating some observation that had 
been made in the course of a short conversation with the 
woman at the well. Brown began a story, but cheeked 
himself. 

"I was going to tell about my grandfather — but per- 
haps I'd better not bother you." 

"Go ahead; I would like to hear it." 

"My grandfather, an old time resident of Hudson, 
Ohio, was a bad stammerer and on one occasion, a stranger 
passing by inquired the way to a certain place. Several 
times my grandfather essayed to speak but the words 
wouldn't shape themselves and he finally blurted out: 



Owen and Jason Brown 343 

" 'Well, g-g-go on you'll get t-t-there before I can 
t-t-tell you. ' ' ' 

Taken in connection with that of other members of 
the Brown family, the life story of Jason Brown is one of 
unusual interest, bearing upon events that have made 
national history. 

Jason Brown lived several years in Southern Cali- 
fornia, holding a claim upon a mountain of the Sierra 
^ladre range near Pasadena, where he lived alone until 
joined by his brother, Owen. The latter subsequently died 
and Jason buried him upon the mountain top, which has 
now become known to the people of Pasadena as "Brown's 
Peak." 

Jason Brown is a philosopher, and ascetic, and prefers 
his hermitage to living in a family. 



John Yates IJeall 

HIS riEATICAL EXPLOIT OF LAKE ERIE. 



Lying as they do on the boundary line of two ^'on- 
tries, the Lake Erie islands are destined to figure con- 
spicuously on the page of future history, and in time may 
rival in tales of war and romance the castled and fortressed 
shores of Germany's famed Rhine River and other re- 
nowned frontiers of countries and kingdoms. In the event 
of war with Great Britain these islands would fall an easy 
prey to British and Canadian cruisers, and would also 
afford convenient skulking places for spies and plotters. 
Already have they become historic, not only as the scene of 
Perry's victory in 1813, but also as the hatching ground of 
plots and conspiracies during the War of the Rebellion. 

Old residents of Put-in-Bay and neighboring isles 
still take interest in an occasional review of reminiscences 
connected with the notable conspiracy of John Yates 
Beale and his abettors in 1864, the object of which was the 
liberation of rebel officers — 3,000 in number — confined as 
prisoners on Johnson's Island; the raiding and capture of 
Sandusky and other lake towns, and the devastation of 
Northern Ohio by armed Confederates and their allies. 
The plot, its attempted fulfillment, its timely discovery 
and subsequent failure, are facts of historic record, reitera- 
tion of which is not the object of the following narration, 
excepting so far as concerns their bearing on local incidents 
and reminiscence. From a local point of view, therefore, 
the event will here be considered, thus perhaps bringing 

(344) 



John Yates Beall 345 

to light matter of interest which has escaped the general 
delineator of history. 

Very quiet for a summer resort was Put-in-Bay at 
the time of which we write — a fact due in part to the late- 
ness of the season and consequent withdrawal of summer 
guests, and partly to a deficit in the island's male popula- 
tion occasioned by the absence of a large proportion 
of able-bodied men, then doing duty in the ranks of the 
Union army on Southern soil. 

September 19th, 1864, dawned serenely over stretches 
of purpling vineyard and orchards full fruited. Old men 
and boys, w^omen and children, were early at their work 
gathering the luscious clusters and heaping the measure 
with orchard fruits. 

The morning steamer cleared from the wharves on her 
usual daily trip to Sandusky, and no suspicion of brooding 
danger threatened the peace of island h-^mes or that of 
the nation entered the minds of island dwellers. True, 
there had been reported among visitors to the place, a few 
days before, individuals who had acted strangely and said 
some queer things concerning the war, its prospects and 
the relations of North and South, hinting darkly of what 
"might" happen. These individuals were spotted as 
"rebel sympathizers," if not as genuine rebels. No special 
importance was attached to the circumstance of their 
presence on the island, however, until afterwards. 

Late in the afternoon of the day above specified, the 
steamer Philo Parsons, of the Detroit, Island & Sandusky 
line, landed at Wehrle's dock. Middle Bass, distant a mile 
or so from the "Bay." At the latter place the usual 
crowd of interested parties and dock loungers awaited the 
steamer's arrival, but as she showed no signs of putting 
off from Middle Bass some debate as to the cause of her 



3i6 John Yafcs Beall 

detention was excited. A little later the steamer Island 
Queen, which had left Put-in-Bay in the morning, was seen 
threading her way through the channel to Wehrle's and 
soon the two steamers lay side by side. 

Darkness fell and the crowd on the docks at Put-in- 
Bay increased. Both the Philo Parsons and Island Queen 
were expected to touch, one on her way to Detroit, the 
other bound for Toledo. Both were long overdue. No 
telephone or telegraph cable connected the islands as now, 
and no messages could be exchanged. It was proposed to 
send a boat across with a committee of investigation, but 
nobody volunteered to go. Some were awaiting expected 
friends, others the evening mail or parcels from the city. 
Weary of delay, the less curious and anxious of the crowd 
finally dispersed to their homes and turned in for the 
night. Scarcely had they closed their eyes in slumber, 
however, when each in turn was startled by a thundering 
knock at his door. 

To the query: "Who's there, and what's wanted?" 
came the astounding reply: 

"Get up! The steamers Island Queen and Philo 
Parsons are in the hands of the rebels! Secrete your 
money and valuables, and if you have any firearms or 
ammunition in the house, get them together and hurry to 
the Bay." 

From house to house swiftly sped the messenger, and 
silently stealing through the night from every part of the 
island flitting shadows might have been seen of men and 
often of women and children with frightened faces, all 
hurrying toward the bay center. The news which had 
thus aroused the island from center to circumference was 
communicated by Capt. George Magle, a passenger of the 
Island Queen, who, under cover of darkness had crossed 



J aim Yaffs Bcall 347 

from Middle Bass. Capt. Magle stated that a large force 
of men, armed to the teeth, had taken possession of both 
steamers, and that the officers, crew and passengers were 
held as prisoners, though the latter were finally allowed to 
go ashore at INliddle Bass, after a promise had been 
exacted from each to divulge nothing concerning the occur- 
rence for twenty-four hours — a promise which in numerous 
instances was quickly broken. 

Certain of the passengers had gathered from words 
let fall by the conspirators, that their object was the cap- 
ture of the United States gunboat Michigan, then lying 
in Sandusky Bay, and the liberation of the prisoners on 
Johnson's Island. These movements, together with the 
uncertainty of their results, filled with foreboding the 
minds of island dwellers. By common impulse, people 
gathered to the Bay from Middle Bass and Isle St. George, 
and excitement knew no bounds. 




'Steamer Island Queen" 



348 



John Yates Bcoll 



A military company was hastily organized, and Capt. 
John Brown, Jr., son of old John Brown, of Harper's 
Ferrj^ fame, who resided on the island, was chosen its com- 




Capt. Geo. W. Orr, Master of the "Island Queen" 



mander, and every available man was enrolled within its 
ranks. The members of this brigade were variously accou- 
tered. Captain Brown possessed in his own right quite an 
arsenal of weapons, some of which had been used by his 
father and other members of the Brown family in their 
raids and skirmishes. There were distributed among the 



John Yates Beall 349 

men, together with a nondescript assortment of muskets, 
breechloading rities, Springfield rifles, shot guns, revolvers 
and horse pistols. 

The old "Perry victory" cannon — which ever since 
the War of 1832 had kept watch and ward over the island — 
was wheeled into position, commanding the wharves and 
heavily charged with powder, gravel and old iron. 

Meantime, wagons were driving abont like "Jehu," 
conveying goods from stores and private dwellings to the 
thick woodlands of the west shore, where they were 
secreted. Old stumps and hollow logs were utilized as 
banks of deposit for money, jewels and valuables of all 
sorts, while the numerous caves which perforate the is- 
land's sub-strata of limestone afforded refuge for the 
weak-kneed and faint of heart. Into these retreats, it is 
said, crowded the "Copperheads" as the Southern 
sympathizers were then called — and so demoralized with 
fright were they, it is averred, that they did not emerge 
for three days. 

To the inhabitants of Put-in-Bay the night Avhich fol- 
lowed the first news of the plot was fraught with all the 
tragedy of war. The air was filled with flying and exag- 
gerated rumors; the suspense was painful; women grew 
nervous with apprehension and no thought of sleep was 
entertained. 

As soon as practicable, news of the capture was sent 
to the commanding officer of the guard on Johnson's Is- 
land — a deputation selected for the purpose bearing the 
message and proceeding by boat across to the peninsula, 
and thence to the island lying just beyond in Sandusky 
Bay. 

During the time that Put-in-Bay was under arms, two 
alarms were reported. The first occurred at the old 



350 John Yates Biall 

"South dock." In the distribution of guards, two men 
had been picketed at that place. One was armed with :i 
rifle, the other brandished an old mnsket. The men had 
been lying under t tree, when they perceived a squad of 
men approaching. One of the guards grew alarmed and 
wanted to run, but was rallied by his comrade. Together 
they faced the marauders, and in true military style de- 
manded the countersign. The strangers couldn't give the 
countersign, but the spokesman of the party reported as 
captain of a small trading vessel anchored off shore, ac- 
companied by his crew, and the newcomers were allowed to 
pass without molestation. 

The second alarm occurred in the early dawn of morn- 
ing, when a vessel entered the bay and cast anchor under 
the shadow of Gibraltar Island. Imagination had played 
wild pranks during the night, and become highly wrought. 
By its aid in the dim, uncertain light, the strange craft was 
readily resolved into a piratical cruiser upon evil intent. 
The shore battery was brought to bear upon her, and other 
preparations made for a gallant defense. The guards felt 
shaky, but anxious to ascertain the intruder's designs, a 
boat was manned and sent out to hail her. The first coun- 
tenance that appeared over the "cruiser's" railing as they 
approached was that of a well-known sailor and fisherman 
— Meachem by name — a resident of the island. By this 
sign they knew that their fears were groundless, and that 
the vessel was an unoffending frequenter of the island 
waters. 

With the approach of day, all eyes w^ere turned ex- 
pectantly in the direction of Johnson's Island and San- 
dusky, and at 6 a. m. a report gained circulation that 
during the night the steamer Parsons had been sighted, 
heading f(n- the Detroit River: and from the wav that her 



John Yates Beall 351 

chimneys threw smoke it was evident that steam was beini^ 
crowded. From this circumstance the ishmders judged 
that the plot had failed, and the conspirators were trying 
to make good their escape. 

The island military now grew brave, and disbanding, 
went home to breakfast, which was dispatched with a 
relish. Later in the day a tug arrived from Sandusky, 
bringing definite news of the plot and its failure, and bear- 
ing dispatches stating that the officers of the Island Queen, 
who had been carried away as prisoners on the Parsons, 
were safe landed and on their way home. 

Concerning the capture of these boats, the late Capt. 
Geo. W. Orr, master of the Island Queen, told an interest- 
ing story. The captain made a spirited resistance of the 
raiders to whom, at the point of a revolver, he was finally 
forced to yield. Following this episode, and up to the 
time of his death, Captain Orr was a summer resident of 
Put-in-Bay, owning and occupying with his family i 
pretty cottage environed with shrubbery, orchard and 
vineyard. Following is his acL-ouut, verbatiir, as furnished 
the writer: 

''I had no personal knowledge of the capture of the 
steamer Philo Parsons by the same men a few hours before 
the taking of the Queen, but according to the statement 
made me by Captain Atwood, master of the Parsons, the 
latter left Detroit on the morning of September 19th. On 
her way down she stopped at Sandwich, on the Canadian 
side, when some ten or twelve men got on board as pas- 
sengers for Sandusky. Leaving there she touched at 
Amherstburg on the same side, and there twelve or fifteen 
more men got on board, also as passer gers for Sandusky. 
Amongst the baggage here taken on was a large, old- 
fashioned trunk covered with sole leather, which af'er- 



352 John Yates Be all 

wards proved to contain a quantity of revolvers, hatchets, 
pistols and bowie knives. Leaving Amherstburg the 
steamer came direct to Put-in-Bay, then to ^Middle Bass, 
where Captain Atwood got ofit", leaving the boat in charge 
of the mate, his son-in-law. Continuing' the trip to San- 
dusky, the Parsons stopped at Kelley's Island. Leaving 
Kelley's she had got about three-fourths of the distance 
between that place and Cedar Point when the men who 
came as passengers from Canada opened the leather trunk 
and arming themselves at once took possession of the 
steamer, made prisoners of the crew, and compelled them 
to navigate the boat as their captors directed. Under 
their orders the Parsons passed into Sandusky bay a little 
beyond Cedar Point to where a fair view could be had of 
Johnson's Island. A short stoppage was made, then with- 
out proceeding further, for some reason, they put about, 
and returned to Middle Bass. Before reaching there they 
threw overboard several tons of pig iron which had been 
consigned to Sandusky. At IMiddle Bass, when wooding, 
the steamer Island Queen came alongside on her way from 
Sandusky to Put-in-Bay and Toledo. Forty or fifty 
soldiers — 100 day men — who were going to Toledo to ba 
mustered out, were on board the Queen, together with a 
large number of island people, making nearly 100 passen- 
gers. Here the Queen was taken possession of by the 
armed conspirators, who leaped aboard from the Parsons' 
upper decks. The men comprising crew and passengers of 
the Queen were compelled to go into the Parsons' hold, 
while the ladies and children were all ordered into her up- 
per cabins. 

"Engineer Henry Haines was ordered out of the 
engine room, and told that if he did not come thev would 



John Yafcs Be all 353 

shoot him. He refused and they shot him in the face, 

causing a flesh wound and filling his face with powder. 
''Several shots w^ere fired indiscriminately into the 

crowd, Lorenz Miller of Put-in-Bay sustaining severe 

injuries, while the women were nearly frightened into 

hysterics. 

"A few minutes later I was ordered up from the hold 

and taken on board the Queen, where the leader of the 

gang demanded the boat's papers. 

" 'Whom am I giving them to?' I inquired. 

" 'I am Lieutenant Beale of the Confederate Navy.' 

" 'What do -you want with the papers?' 

" ' We want to send them as trophies to Jeff Davis.' 

" 'You can't run the boat without the papers,' I then 



'The boat isn't going to run much longer,' was the 



said. 

reply. 

"I told him that the papers were in the office, which 
when we reached, w^e found had been broken open, the 
papers scattered about the floor and the money drawer 
rifled. 

' ' I asked him what he was going to do with the women 
and children who were up in the Parsons' cabin. He said 
that they would be put ashore on Middle Bass, and that 
he should require of them an obligation not to divulge any- 
thing in regard to the matter for twenty-four hours. I 
told him that I had three children in the cabin, that I knew 
most of the others, and would like to go up and see them, 
and he went with me. 

"He then placed the clerk, William Hamilton, En- 
gineer Haines and myself under guard, and calling toge- 
ther all the prisoners, made them promise to say nothing 
of the affair until after the time specified. I wanted to 



354 John Yafcs Beali 

cro ashore with the others, but the guard would not let me 
off. 

"The leader then ordered the Parsons to get under 
way, the Queen lashed to her side. When about half a 
mile southeast of Ballast Island the boats came to a stop. 
Lieut. Beale then ordered the Queen's yawlboat lowered 
and taken in charge of the Parsons; this done, he ordered 
the former scuttled. 

''I asked permission to go and get the Queen's books, 
as they would be of use to the owners. 

" 'The books are all right where they are," was the 
reply. 

" 'They are going to destroy the boat,' I insisted. 

" 'I guess not,' answered the guard. 

"A man then came up out of the hold and said that 
he had cut the steamer's feed pipe, and that the water 
was coming in fast. Then they cast oif her lines and let 
her go adrift in the darkness, and the Parsons was headed 
for Sandusky. When within a mile of the outside channel 
buoy, at the mouth of the bay, we hove to. I was called 
out of the cabin and Lieut. Beale asked me whether I had 
heard of any report that a raid from Canada was going to 
be made on Johnson's Island. I told him I had not. 

"It w-as then about 10 p. m. The LT. S. gunboat 
Michigan lay oft' Johnson's Island, her black hull gloom- 
ing through the night. The plotters were awaiting signals 
evidently which failed to apjiear. Three or four of the 
leaders went aside and held a consultation, and I over- 
heard Lieut. Beale say to the men : 

" 'I have a notion to make the attempt, anyhow.' 

"They waited about a half an hour longer, and then 
headed back up the lake, and the Parsons was put under 
crowded steam. There were lots of old coal oil barrels 



John Yates Beall 355 

aboard, aud the boiler was kept in a tremendous heat. The 
first halt was made in the Detroit River jnst above Amherst- 
burg; off that place a number of men got into the Queen's 
yawl and went ashore. The next stop was made about 
daylight at "Fighting Island," a marshy strip of land 
about four or five miles long, uninhabited at the time. 
There they put us ashore. 

"I told them we had rather be landed on the main 
shore. They said they had rather we wouldn't. 

"Leaving us, they continued on up the river to Sand- 
wich, M'here, after removing the piano and other valuables, 
the Parsons was- set adrift, but was afterward picked up 
by a tug. The raiders then scattered into Canada fs fast 
as possible. 

"Hamilton, Haines, and myself remained on Fight- 
ing Island about two hours, when a fisherman passed in a 
boat. We signaled him in, and got him to set us acros'5 
upon the American side, where we tot;k the car for San- 
dusky, going by the way of Monroeville, at which place I 
learned on arriving that the Island Queen had grounded 
upon 'Chickanola reef.' I at once telegraphed to Detroit 
for a tug and steam pump. 

"When we reached Sandusky, we found the place 
wild with excitement. While waiting there, I had a plug 
made three feet long, four inches in diameter, and taper- 
ing to a point. Next morning we boarded the tug Louise 
and started for 'Chickanola' reef, where we found the 
Queen sunk in about ten feet of water, which just covered 
her lower decks. Had the steamer gone down in deep 
water her whereabouts would never have teen known. The 
tug and pump arrived from Detroit, and at once they be- 
gan to lower the water. When low enough so that I could 
get under the deck, I went with the plug — knowing just 



356 John Yates Beall 

where to find the pipe — and driving it in, stopped the leak. 
After that we soon had her pumped out and towed to Kel- 
ley's Island, and none too soon, for in an hour after reaeli- 
ing there it began blowing a lively gale from the west." 

As described by Capt. Orr, John Yates Beale — who 
was afterwards captured at Toronto, sentenced and shot 
as a spy on Governor's Island, New York — was a youth of 
courageous and courteous bearing, aged at the time of his 
execution twenty-two years. 

A paper dropped by a rebel prisoner, Col. Johnson, of 
Kentucky, containing plans of the conspirators, thus put- 
ting on guard officials at Sandusky, and Col. Hill in com- 
mand at Johnson's Island, was the agency that frustrated, 
at the last moment, one of the deepest-laid plots of the 
Civil War — a plot, the success of which would undoubtedly 
have caused devastation to Northern homes, and turned 
perhaps the chances of war in favor of the Southern 
Confederacy. 

In view of this projected uprising, thirty thousand 
stand of arms had been secreted, it is said, on the Canadian 
shore; also an armament wherewith to tit out the propel- 
ler, "Georgian." 



Johnson's Island : Its Thrillino- Rem- 

iniscences and Historical 

Burial Gi'ounds. 



Johnson's Island is a body of land containing about 
275 acres lying in Sandusky Bay near the Ohio Peninsula, 
and about three miles from Sandusky city. 

Known in early days as ' ' Bull 's Island, ' ' it became, in 
1852, the property of L. B. Johnson, and from that date 
has borne its present name. 

During the war with the British and Indians in 1812, 
and in the struggle of the Canadian "Patriots" in 1838, 
this island figured more or less conspicuously; but it was 
not until the "War of the Eebellion that the place achieved 
historical prominence of a national character. 

Late in the fall of 1861, a tract of forty acres on 
Johnson's Island was leased by the United States Govern- 
ment, to be used as prison grounds for Confederate officers. 

The contract for prison buildings was awarded AV. 
T. West, of Sandusky. 

These buildings consisted of a small village of bar- 
racks for troops on guard, and for prisoners ; each barrack 
affording accommodations for 240 men — the barracks used 
by troops and prisoners being alike in every detail. There 
were cottages also for the commanding officers of the guard 
and buildings devoted to the quartermaster's use and for 
commissary purposes. 

A prison wall fourteen feet high, built of two-inch 
plank, was constructed. Around its top was a parapet, or 
= (359) 



360 J uJiiisu It's Inland 

walk, commanding views both of the groimds within, and 
of the exterior surroundings, this serving as a beat for the 
sentinels on duty. There was a hospital also, a powder 
house, and other structures. 

In November of the same year, Wm. S. Pierson of 
Sandusky was appointed to the positicn of INIajor, and 
authorized to recruit two companies of infantry to do 
guard duty at Johnson's Island. This organization known 
as "Hoffman's Batallion" was afterwards reenforced at 
different times by additional companies, forming alto- 
gether that which became known as the 128th 0. V. I. 
This regiment was placed under command of Col. Chas. T. 
Hill. Owing to a threatened raid upon the island by rebel 
conspirators in 1864, other detachments of troops were 
ordered thither. The hitherto quiet isle thus became 
transformed into a military stronghold, and a depot as 
Avell. for Southern prisoners of war, who arrivt^d by car- 
loads via Sandusky. The military, and national import- 
ance of Johnson's Island, at that time, may be compre- 
hended in view of the fact that of the nearly ten thousand 
Confederates there confined at different times during the 
war, all of this large number were commissioned of^cers, 
representing the flower of the whole Southern army. It 
was, in fact, the only prison of its kind upon Northern 
soil. There held in confinement, it has been said, "were 
officers enough for an army of 80,000 men." 

To further strengthen the island, forts were built. 
These were furnished each with mounted cannon ; while 
the U. S. gunboat "Michigan" lay abreast of the prison 
grounds, her big guns pointing menacingly shoreward. 

One detachment of Federal troops that did guard duty 
at Johnson's Island was known as the "Gray Beard 
Brigade." It was of Western origin, and was composed 



Johnson's Island 363 

almost entirely of elderly men, some of whom were over 
eighty years of age. 

One of these old soldiers, it is said, was the father of 
twenty-one children and had fifteen sons in the Union 
army. Members of this detachment were rendered con- 
spienons by the long white beards that adorned their faces. 

The "dead line" passed within twenty feet of the 
wall. To cross this line meant death, for the sentries had 
orders to shoot without parley any prisoner who dared 
step across it ; hence it was not an easy matter to reach the 
wall, saying nothing of scaling it. This feat, however, 
was accomplished in a few instances. 

Concerning life at Johnson's Island, a writer thus 
observes : 

"A familiar scene which daily greeted the prisoners 
was the dress parade of a splendid regiment of Ohio volun- 
teers, detailed as prison guards. Their parade ground was 
just west of the prison walls, in the center of which was 
erected a magnificent flag pole over one hundred feet high, 
from the top of which floated the stars and stripes of the 
American Union. Every evening the flag was lowered to 
the ground and each morning it was raised to its proud 
and giddy height amidst the rattle of war-like drums and 
the inspiring strains of martial music. 

"The swelling notes of Hail Columbia and the Star 
Spangled Banner from a splendid band on the outside 
were in striking contrast with the feelings of those within. 
And often at nightfall — the solemn hour when twilight 
was gently stealing over Johnson's Island — the sweet 
notes of Home, Sweet Home, floating out and mingling 
with the gentle murmers of Sandusky's waves, have been 
caught up by the ears and have touched the hearts of 3000 



o64 JnJn}f!oii'.^ Islaiu] 

prisoners within the walls. It is surprising if at such a 
moment many a manly breast there heaved with emotion, 
and many a hollow eye glistened with a crystal tear. 
There was — alas ! — a sweet home far away in the sunny 
►South which many of them were destined to visit no more." 

The two great problems confronting prisoners of war, 
it has been said, are first, "How to kill time," second, 
■'How to make their escape." 

Many of the Johnson's Island prisoners sought occupa- 
tion, and diversion, by the manufacture of fancy and use- 
ful articles of all descriptions, Avhittled from wood, or 
carven from the lake shells that came ashore near the 
prison grounds. Collar pins, brooches and other novelties 
produced were sold by the prison authorities to outside 
buyers, and the money returned to the manufacturers. 

Among the prisoners were preachers and printers; 
lawyers and doctors ; artisans and farmers. The books and 
newspapers furnished them were about all that made life 
endurable to some, while others developed aptitude and 
fondness for theatricals and other entertainments, which 
were cleverly devised. 

Philosophers, and poets, too, were among the number. 
The latter devoted a part of their tin^e to the manufacture 
of verse. The following poem is said to have been written 
by one Col. Frazier of Memphis, Tenn. 



Johnson 's Ishiiid 

THE CAPTIVE ON LAKE ERIE." 

"A captive on a lake-girt isle 

Looks on the waters sadly, 
His thoughts on one whose blessed 
smile 

Would welcome him so gladly, 
But that beneath a northern sky — 

A sky to him so dreary; 
He's doomed to pine and vainly sigh, 

Away out on Lake Erie. 

"The winds that waft to others bliss 

But mock him with their tone ; 
The lips are pale they stoop to kiss. 

With yearning for his home. 
The waves that dash upon the beach 

Keep ceaseless watch, and weary 
They chant of joys beyond the reach 

Of him who looks on Erie. 

"They bear to him his mother's tone, 

His sister's mournful song, 
Until he longs to be alone 

Far from that captive throng ; 
And when he lays him down to sleep, 

With aching heart and weary, 
The winds and waves his vigil keep, 

Dear dreamer on Lake Erie. 

"But all who love him pray to God 

To bless his precious life 
With patience to endure the rod. 

With faith to close the strife. 



r^GC) J oil nso n '.s Isla iid 

And look beyond the dreary morn 

To brighter days and better 
When native winds shall fan his brow 

And only fond arms fetter." 

Still another composed by a prisorer, Asa Hartz, 
found publication in the "Confederate Veteran," of 
Nashville. The poem runs as follows : 

"My love reposes on a ros.'wood frame; 

A bunk have I. 
A couch of feathery down fills up the same ; 

IMine's straw, but dry. 
She sinks to sleep at night with scarce a sigh ; 
With waking eyes I watch the hours go by. 

"M}^ love her daily dinner takes in state. 

And so do I (?). 
The richest viands flank her silver plate; 

Coarse grub have I. 
Pure wine she sips at ease, her thirst to slake ; 
I pump my drink from Erie's crystal lake. 

"My love has all the world at will to roam : 

Three acres I. 
She goes abroad or quiet stays at home ; 

So cannot I. 
Bright angels watch around her couch at night; 
A Yank with loaded gun keeps me in sight. 

"A thousand weary miles now stretch lietwcen 

]My love and I. 
To her, this winter night, calm, cold, serene, 

T waft a sigh, 
And hope with all my earnestness of soul 
Tomorrow's mail may bring me my parole. 



J oh nson 's Isknid 367 

"There's hope ahead I We'll some clay meet again, 

]\ry love and I ; 
We'll wipe away all tears of sorrow then. 

Her love-lit eye 
Will all my many troubles then beguile, 
And keep this wayward Reb from Johnson's Isle." 

BEE. 

That much time Avas killed by the prisoners in seeking 
to devise plots, and plans innumerable, whereby they 
niight gain freedom, is clear from all that has been told ; 
for many w^ere the attempts made on their part to elude, 
bribe, or overpower the guards ; to scale the walls and to 
escape from the island. Though deep laid, and ingen- 
ious, most of these plans failed to work, or were in some 
way frustrated; for the prisoners were strongly and care- 
fully guarded. A few of the number were successful, 
however, in getting away. 

Among the reminiscences that thickly cluster about 
Johnson's Island — now almost depopulated, and aban- 
doned to its lonely environments — a record has been left of 
some of these bold ventures, though space in this connec- 
tion will permit only brief reference thereto. 

The frigidly cold night of January 11th, 1864, is 
remembered by the prisoners. The mercury stood at 26 
degrees below zero. The coal oil froze in the lamps, and 
the lights went out. On that night, it is said, several 
among the more daring of the prisoners scaled the walls, 
and, crossing the treacherous ice of the bay, succeeded in 
reaching the mainland. Two of the men were so near 
frozen that they were compelled to lie over at the homes of 
Sandusky residents and to be recaptured. Proceeding 
westward along the lake shore, the remaining three 



368 Johnson's Island 

traveled for a space of sixty hours without rest, sleep, and 
but little food. Finally, on crossing the lake opposite Fort 
]Malden, they broke through the ice, when near the Cana- 
dian shore, and narrowly escaped drowning, but managed 
to reach the Dominion, where under protection of the 
British flag they found safety, and succor. Thence they 
proceeded over deep snows 500 miles to the mouth of the 
St. Lawrence, where they set sail for Havana, and from this 
point reached Wilmington, where they joined their com- 
mands. 

One of the many sad incidents that occurred on the 
prison grounds was the execution of a young Confederate 
soldier, described as follows by Veteran S. N. Reed : 

'"On the afternoon of September 2, 1864, there oc- 
curred an occasion of no little moment, even in wartime. 
A young man, not yet twenty, handsome and manly, a 
soldier who did not Hinch or cringe or beg for life, when 
told that a militarj^ commission said that he must die, and 
by hanging, received the intelligence with great calmness 
and prepared for the end. 

"This young man was John B. Nickell, of Kentucky, 
who had enlisted in the Confederate army at the ago of 
eighteen. Later he became a partisan ranger and killed 
one or two men. 

"At a quarter before one the troops, under the com- 
mand of Col. Charles W. Hill, were formed into column 
and marched to the field west of the prison, where the gal- 
lows was erected. The prisoner, accompanied by the 
chaplain, rode in a wagon guarded by twelve men and ac- 
companied by the burial party, preceded by martial music 
playing the "Dead INIarch." On the arrival of the con- 
demned, the regiment Avas formed into a hollow square 
around the scaffold and he was seated on the coffin. The 



Johnson's Island 369 

proceedings of the military court were lead by Adjutant 
Hayes, after which the chaplain read a paper signed by 
the prisoner a few moments before leaving for the place 
of execution. Prayer was offered by the chaplain, and then 
the prisoner was told to arise. 

"He stood up promptly, with head erect, but without 
bravado. His quiet, brave demeanor impressed his 
enemies — enemies without enmity at that solemn moment. 
The rope was speedily adjusted, the cap drawn over his 
eyes, the spring touched, and the tragedy was at an end. 
Brave and handsome was this young Kentuckian at noon 
of that September day. Soon afterwards the stalwart 
form was lifeless." 

]\Iany of the prisoners were from Tennessee, others 
from Georgia, Alabama, the Carolinas and other states of 
the far South; and the dreariest, and most trying season, 
to these exiles, as may well be imagined, was that of wnnter, 
which covered the lake with fields of ice and brought snow, 
and biting cold, to which most of the number were total 
strangers. That the most prolific cause of mortality in the 
prison barracks was due to pneumonia is therefore no 
surprise. 

The close of the war and opening of the prison doors 
formed a most joyous occasion to these long held captives. 
Just how one of the number felt on leaving the island may 
be gathered from the following verses found written on the 
prison wall after their departure : 



370 Johnson's Island 

"FAREWELL TO JOHNSON'S ISLAND." 

"Hoarse-sounding billows of the white-capped lake 

That 'gainst the barriers of our hated prison break, 

Farewell ! Farewell ; thou giant inland sea ; 

Thou too, subservest the modest of tyranny — 

Girding this isle, washing its lonely shore. 

With moaning echoes of thy melancholy roar. 

Farewell, thou lake! Farewell, thou inhospitable land! 

Thou hast the curses of this patriot band — 

All, save the spot, the holy sacred bed. 

Where rest in peace our Southern warriors dead." 

At Johnson's Island, in 1864, was enacted the lead- 
ing events of a notable conspiracy to which reference haa 
already been made in this work, namely: The attempt on 
the part of the Southern Confederacy through its agents 
to capture the United States gunboat Michigan and lake 
transports of the Detroit, Island and Sandusky lines, and 
the simultaneous release of the rebel prisoners confined at 
Johnson's Island, at Camp Chase near Columbus, at Camp 
Douglass near Chicago, and at Camp iMorton near Indian- 
apolis — in all about 26,000 men. 

Hatched at the Confederate eapitol, this plot was car- 
rier forward by a few sw^orn adherents, chief of whoai 
were Colonel Cole, an oificer in the army of General Lee, 
and John Jates Beall. The former was called to Rich- 
mond and there entrusted with this secret service. 
Colonel Cole is said to have been a man of wonderful cool- 
ness and courage, as well as ample resources, though to all 
appearances a coarse, uncultured man. Reall on the con- 
trary was a handsome, well educated young man, a West 
Virginian, and an officer in the Confederate navy. 



Johnson's Island 371 

The "woman in the case" was Annie Davis, a female 
spy, M'ho played skillfully her part in the drama. 

The first move on the part of Cole was to open a cor- 
respondence with one of the Johnson's Island prisoners — 
IMajor Trimble. This correspondence was carried on 
through ink-written letters interlined wdth important mes- 
sages written in starch, and afterwards rendered visible 
by an application of iodine. 

Through Major Trimble was organized among the 
prisoners a society known as "The Southern Cross," 
having for its emblem a wooden cross twined with the Con- 
federate colors. Its members w^ere bound by ironclad 
oaths, administered on the open Bible, to hold themselves 
in readiness, when the time came, to strike at once a blow 
for personal liberty and the Southern cause. They were 
also bound to the most solemn secrecy. 

While Beall and about twenty picked men Avere de- 
tailed to capture by strategy the steamers Island Queen 
and Philo Parsons, Annie Davis, then located at the West 
House, Sandusky, was industriously working up the plot '3 
initial feature — the capture of the ^Michigan — by first 
capturing by the wiles of coquetry her officers and elici- 
ting from them information concerning matters military 
at Johnson's Island and Sandusky. 

Woman, not only, but wine was employed by sagacious 
Colonel Cole in addling the brains and drawing into his 
meshes the unsuspecting naval officers, and a champagne 
supper served by him aboard the ^Michigan on the night 
set for the culmination of the conspiracy came wnthin an 
ace of placing the vessel and her command in the hands 
of the rebels. 

The convivial cup had gone its rounds until es the 
hours of night wore on, the party had become mellow and 



?75 



JoJnison \s Lshnid 



merry. For the closing draught, however, was reserved a 
potion heavily drugged, which Cole was ahout to deal out, 
when suddenly confronted by the commanding officer, who 
had been absent during this time at Johnson's Island. 

Advancing, the officer laid his hand upon Cole*s 
shoulder. 

"You d — n rebel spy! You are my prisoner!" he 
hissed. 

"Sergeant-of-marines, arrest this man and put him 
in irons ! ' ' 

Had a torpedo suddenly exploded under the jMichigan 
her officers could scarcely have been more completely dum- 
founded. 




Old Gunboat "Michigan" 



Johnson's Island 373 

Having successfully performed his allotted task 
and obtained possession of the two island steamers, BeaJl 
on board the Philo Parsons awaited off Cedar Point the 
signal agreed upon — a cannon shot from the Michigan — 
to attack and capture the gunboat and to assist the prison- 
ers at the island, who Avere to rise at the same time in in- 
surrection, overpower the guards and make good their 
escape. 

The signal came not, however, and realizing that the 
plot had failed, the Parsons, at Beall's command, was put 
about and headed with all speed for Canada. 

Up to the afternoon of that day every part of the 
bold project had worked like a charm, but as afterwards 
generally learned, the plans of the conspirators were given 
away when nearly completed by one of the prisoners, Col. 
Johnson, of Kentucky. 

Cole was closely confined and guarded at Johnson's 
Island, and later was tried by a military court martial 
and sentenced to be shot, but ultimately through influential 
friends obtained pardon. While leader of the conspiracj^ 
and as such more deserving of punishment, Cole went free, 
while his abettor, cultured and courteous Beall, was 
executed as a spy at Gouverneur's Island in New York bay. 

Cole, it is said, was to have received $20,000 for the 
part he played. After his pardon he went to Texas and 
settled on a ranch. 

Not much now remains on Johnson's Island to re- 
mind the visitor of the tragic scenes there enacted, save a 
few straggling remnants of the prison buildings and the 
cemetery where lie buried 206 Confederate dead. Georgia 
marble headstones, inscribed with the name, age, company 
and regiment of each, were erected over these graves in 
1890 through the instrumentality of Sandusky people, and 



374 Johnson's Island 

a party of Georgia newspaper men and proniinent horti- 
culturists who visited the place in 1889 and saw its neg- 
lected condition. 

Previous to that time the burial site presented a 
scene of neglect. The M'riter was privileged once to view 
the spot before the erection of these tablets, the occasion 
being the decoration of the graves on Memorial day by a 
detachment of IVIc^Meens Post, G. A. E., of Sandusky. 

After a run of twenty minutes the steamer upon which 
we took passage landed her passengers, at a little dock that 
put out from shore. Headed by a drum corps and a flag 
bearer, the detachment took up its line of march for the 
burial place, distant nearly a mile, followed by a proces- 
sion of people. There was no path, save that trodden by 
those who led. Following the shore bend, with the blue 
waters of Erie to the right, on the left a sloping sweep of 
grass land rolled its billowy verdure to the edge of a 
distant timber belt. This grassy plain was the site upon 
which had once been located the prison grounds. Rem- 
nants of the old barracks and other buildings were pointed 
out. The windows were broken and their exterior appeared 
weatherbeaten and ghostly. Startled by clang of drums 
and flap of flags, a few horses and cattle grazing amidst 
the deep grass scurried away to the farthest bounds of the 
pasture. 

The procession continued its march, beating through 
rank grass and over piles of drift wood and ridges of 
gravel, which the high seas of recent storms had lodged 
in the edge of the meadow. 

Leaving the shore line the path swerved a little to the 
left, leading through a thicket so dense that a passage 
would not have been practicable but for the opening pre- 
viously made with ax and scythe. The underbrush finally 




o 



o 



JoJdisoh's Ishntd 377 

merged into a strip of forest and here in a spot as lonely as 
was ever selected for the burial of the dead, under 
branches low bending, amid shadows and silence, appeared 
long rows of sodden mounds, marked only by wooden head- 
boards bearing each the name and age of deceased, to- 
gether with the number of the command to which he had 
belonged. These headboards had been painted white, but 
the storms of more than a quarter of a century had worn 
them grey, and most of them had fallen to the ground. 
Though dim, nearly all the inscriptions were still legible 
and a mournful pathos breathed in the language thereby 
spoken. Gazing upon the scene, visions of homes amid the 
orange and magnolia groves of the sunny Southland ap- 
peared, desolated by the removal of those who rest in this 
little isle far from the ministering lands of kindred and 
friends, with only the Northern tempest's beat and the 
breaking waves of a Northern sea lulling them to the sleep 
that knows no waking. 

With uncovered heads, in which the grey freely 
mingled, the veteran band gathered about the graves of 
those with whom they had once closed in deadly conflict. 
There were empty sleeves and scars that told of bitter 
strife and bloodshed, but the bitterness was gone, the blood 
stains wiped out, and only peace and charity and a feeling 
of common brotherhood now dwelt within the hearts of 
the survivors. 

The stars and stripes waved not triumphantly in the 
still air, but drooped silently, letting fall its silken folds 
where slept the brave but misguided sons of the South. 
Fair flowers were placed by fair hands upon the mounds 
already sprinkled with wildwood blossoms. 

A prayer, a brief address, a benediction, and the 



378 Johnson's Island 

dead were again left to the shadows and the silence. Con- 
cerning this lonely burial ground, a weird story has been 
told here, given in substance for what it is worth. 

According to the statement of a visiting journalist, 
the story was originated by one Nichola Rocci, a Sicilian 
laborer in the limestone quarries opened on Johnson's 
Island. Rocci was one of a force of Italians there em- 
ployed. They — the Italians — lived in shacks that served 
them as quarters. These were built near the strip of 
timber in which is located the cemetery. All winter they 
had Avorhed in the quarries, occupying their little houses 
without any unusual occurrence ; but with early spring, 
they were visited by one of those tearing storms such as 
frequently fall due on Lake Erie in the month of March. 
The wind blew with such terrific fury, as to threaten the 
shacks occupied by the quarrymen. Towards midnight 
the gale became so fierce that the Italians, deeming it un- 
safe to remain inside, left their little domiciles and, to find 
protection from the biting blast, made their way into 
the wooded cemetery. 

The whole shore line to weatherward was covered with 
a cloud of driving spray which, carried far inland by the 
gale, froze as it fell, crystallizing rocks and trees and all 
objects with a white coating of ice visible when the moon 
peeped forth from between the flying black clouds. 

Shivering with cold, the men looked about for wind 
breaks, in the shelter of which they crouched. Reaching 
the statue there erected — which represents a soldier hold- 
ing a Confederate flag and pointing southward — Rocci 
took refuge on the lee side of the monument. As the 
moments crept tediously onward, Rocci grew numb with 
cold. Presently the sound of a bugle smote upon his ear — - 
its strains borne on the wins;s of the gale seemed to come 



Johnson's Island 379 

from the lake. Eoeci jumped to his feet, as did his com- 
panions, for the statue of the soldiers, it seemed to him, had 
moved, and turned about so as to face the graves of the 
dead Southerners. A clanking sound was heard, and a 
rustle in the long, dry grass. 

Then appeared a body of men in gray uniforms with 
muskets over their shoulders. There were some with 
sunken eyes, and hollow cheeks ; others youthful, and hand- 
some. Some were in worn and tattered garb, showing in 
their faces the marks of sutfering. 

Slowlj^, silently in answer to the bugle call, this 
phantom regiment marched across the cemetery, then like 
the vanishing spray wreaths, the spectacle faded in air 
as suddenly as it had come. 

So frightened were the quarrymen that they nearly fell 
over each other in getting back to their shacks. It was two 
days before the storm let up sufficiently for the quarry- 
men to reach Sandusky, where on arrival they told of 
their uncanny experiences — a story at which the incredu- 
lous smiled, and shook their heads ; but Rocci and his 
companions never returned to Johnson's Island. 



Thrilling AdveDtures on Island 
Waters. 



Few situations are more calculated to develop and 
to foster a spirit of adventure than that of the island 
dweller; since both through inclination, and necessity, he 
finds it expedient to extend his narrow boundaries by 
frequent excursions abroad, over waters that cut him off 
from the great outside world. 

When sailing his first toy boat, or when striking out 
on the first of his swimming experiences, the boy of island 
birth grows so rapidly into a life of daring and hardihood, 
that any sense of fear that may have harassed his initial 
exploits, vanishes, and he becomes a veritable amphibian. 

From this class comes a large proportion of our har- 
diest fishermen and bravest and most efficient ssamen. 
with cool sagacity, and unruffled composure, stands each 
unfiinchingly at his post, outweathering the wildest storms 
that blow ; or if — as sometimes decreed — human power 
proves too weak to grapple with the elements, they go down 
to death beneath the wave with the same invincible courage 
that characterized their lives throughout. 

As instances of heroic action, adventure, and achieve- 
ment, some of the stories of storm and disaster, wreck 
and rescue, as here related, serve as shining examples. 

THE THREE FISHERS. 

Almost every inhabitant of Put-in-Bay was represent- 
ed in the throng that packed St. Paul's church from 
chancel to vestibule, until even standing room was scarcely 

(380) 



Til rilling Adventures on Island Waters 381 

available — a silent, expectant throng, awed into dumbness 
as it were by the occurrence that had brought them thither, 
and by the impressive solemnity which it inspired. 

As the organ pealed forth the opening notes of a 
funeral dirge, a shuffle of many feet sounded along the 
aisle, and advancing toward the chancel came three sets 
of pall bearers, with three caskets, containing all that re- 
mained of three brothers. 

''Man that is born of woman is of few days, and full 
of trouble. He eometh forth as a liower, and is cut down. ' ' 
As proceeded the funeral service, read by a black robed 
clergyman, the caskets were deposited side by side near 
the chancel entrance in full view of the congregation, and 
the mourners, two by two, filed into the pews reserved for 
them. 

The scene formed a repetition of Kiugsley's tragedy 
of the sea, as set forth in poem entitled, "The Three 
Fishers. ' ' 

"Three fishers went sailing out into the West, 
Out into the West when the sun went down ; 

Each thought of the woman who loved him best, 
And the children stood watching them out of the town; 

For there's little to earn, and many to keep. 
While the harbor bar be moaning. 

"Three corpses lay out on the shining sands. 
In the golden gleam as the sun went down; 

And the women are watching and wringing their hands, 
For those who Avill never come back to the town ; 

For men must work, and women weep, 
Though storms be sudden, and waters deep, 

Then goodbye to the bar, and its moaning." 



3S2 Til rilling Adventures on Island Wafers 

In this, the more recent, but no less tragic instance, 
the three fishers were brothers, bearing the name of John- 
son. 

Full of the buoyant life and strength common to 
young manhood, they had sailed from Put-in-Bay harbor. 
Not a shadow of apprehension clouded the minds of these 
jolly fishermen; and no premonition of coming disaster 
arose to haunt the mental vision of dear ones left behind. 

They had encountered many storms, and had passed 
through many nautical experiences fraught with far 
greater danger than that to which they had finally suc- 
cumbed — and survived; but the ways of Providence, and 
the turns of chance, are alike inscrutable ; and like the 
victims of the ill-fated "Titanic," Death overtook, and 
claimed them at a time when it seemed fartherest removed 
from their thoughts. 

In a tree-shaded corner of the beautiful island ceme- 
tery — that affords to many other sailors ard fishermen a 
last resting place — the Johnson brothers were laid together 
in one wide grave ; and passing along the near-by thor- 
oughfare, the stranger of today pauses to read on a 
marble shaft, marking the spot, the names of the hapless 
trio who fell victims to the cruel waves. 

WRECK OF THE YACHT "CLIPPER." 

It was in August, 1898, during the Inter-lake regatta 
at Put-in-Bay — an occasion that brings more of life and 
gaiety to this famous resort than any other event of the 
season — that a sudden gloom was cast over the yachtsmen 
who participated, and over the island as a whole, by the 
wreck of the "Clipper." This craft, a trim yacht, was 
bound from Toledo to Put-in-Bay, Avith a party of young 



ThriUing Adventures on Island Waters 



383 



men, residents of the above-mentioned city, who were in- 
terested in the races, and who anticipated a jolly good 
time at the "Bay." 

All went merry and well on the night trip down, 
until nearly abreast of Green Island, and but a few miles 
from the bay, when the yacht was struck by one of those 
sudden squalls which sometimes sweep down without 
previous announcement on treacherous Lake Erie. So 
unexpected, and so violent was the gale, in fact, that a 
heavy sea was soon rolling. The yacht mounted the crest 




West Shore Rocks 



of a big wave, glided down its opposite declivity into the 
sea trough, rolling her rail under. The wind at the 
same instant caught the swelling canvas, which the crew 
had not been able to shorten in time, and the yacht cap- 
sized. Being heavily ballasted with pig iron to keep her 



384 TJiriUhuj Advenfurca. on Jslanrl Waters 

steady, the hapless craft sank just off Green Island in 
about thirty feet of water. 

During the preceding night the Green Island light- 
keeper, Air. Gibeaut, had experienced some trouble with 
his lights, and had slept little. After daybreak, therefore, 
he lay down for a nap. When he awoke the storm that had 
struck was viciously raging. He then sighted for the first 
time two men clinging to the top mast of that which 
proved to be the "Clipper." 

j\Ir. Gibeaut instantly launched his little naptha craft, 
the "Twilight," which shipped a barrel or two of water 
before he could get her fairly off shore. The waves 
were heavily rolling, and the tiny launch pitched about in 
the most threatening manner. The tip of the mast with 
the two men clinging thereto just protruded above the 
surface and every sea that swept by completely submerged 
at intervals and buried them from view. The lightkeeper 
was alone, and to manage the heaving launch, and to reach 
the men without running them down, baffled him for a 
time. He circled around the spot, and by the exercise of 
extreme caution succeeded in rescuing the unfortunates, 
who had been in that situation for some time. They had 
reached the last stage of exhaustion and were about ready 
to drop. On inquiry, Gibeaut learned that two of the 
crew were already at the bottom of the lake ; that the 
yacht had sunk before they had time to launch the yaw], 
and that one of the number, INIr. BoUes, had seized a life 
preserver and was then almost a mile distant, drifting 
with the wind and current towards Put-in-Bay. The 
launch was then headed to the res:cue of the castaway. 
"When overtaken, he was aimlessly floating and almost 
drowned from the seas that broke over him. He was a man 
of 190 pounds weight, and could not swim a stroke. 



Tln-illiiig Advent urfs en Island Waters 385 

Unable to fasten the life preserver, he held it together 
with one hand and with the other kept a hankherehief 
i)ressed against mouth and nose to keep out the water. 
In the meantime, a boat containing two small boys, 
John and Carroll Williamson, had put oft' from the Avest 
shore of Put-in-Bay. It was a hard pull for the boys ; 
but ambitious, courageous and used to the oars, they 
reached the hapless yachtsman just in time, for his 
strength was rapidly failing. Gibeaut and his launch also 
came up to proffer aid. j\Ir. Bolles was taken into the boat 
of the Williamson boys, and landed on Put-in-Bay near the 
latter s home, where he was afforded the attention which 
his exhausted condition required. 

When news of the occurrence reached the Bay, Capt. 
Elliott Dodge with "Str. Ina" hastened to the scene. 
Dragging for the bodies resulted in finding one of the men, 
Bartell by name. The "Clipper" was floated and towed 
into the bay, where her wet, empty decks, and broken 
bowsprit, rendered her a mournful object among the in- 
numerable gay yachts and pleasure craft there collected. 

Watch was kept the following night off' Green Island, 
and about four o'clock the folloMdng morning the body ot 
the other missing yachtsman, Wm. Arbuckle — seen floating 
on the then ciuiet water — Avas picked up. The sinking of 
the '"Clipper" occurred at nearly the same place where 
the three Johnson brothers, mentioned in this connection, 
lost their lives. 

To the end of his life, Mr. Bolles will probably never 
forget the thrilling adventure in which two of the "Clip- 
per's crew found death beneath the waves; while he and 
its remaining members were saved as by a hair's breadth. 
Neither will he forget his benefactors, whom he showered 
with gifts bestowed in token of his heartfelt gratitude. 



oS6 ThriUing Adventures on Island Wafers 

A MIDWINTER STORM. 

To dwellers upon weatherward lying shores, the gale 
seemed without precedent. All night, following its begin- 
ning, was heard the war of elements and with break of 
dawn appeared a scene which for chaotic confusion might 
have suggested that which preceded the opening period of 
creation. The lake, partially open the day before, was 
entirely broken up. The wind had a sixty miles an hour 
velocity, blowing straight from the horizon with a lifting 
force irresistible to those obliged to face it in the open. 
Snow drove in horizontal lines through the air, and regard- 
less of the heavy ice drifts, near and far, a tremendous 
sea set shoreward, flinging gigantic floes, and pulverized 
masses of ice, to a great height upon the beach, forming 
vast bridges. 

Long tongues of wave licked the faces of bold rock 
barriers, flinging over them a froth of foam which the wind 
caught and carried forward in misty sheets, falling upon 
crag, root, and overhanging cedar groups, heavily encrust- 
ing with ice every object along the shores. The roar of 
wind and wave and grind and crash of ice were terrific. 
The whirling snow sought every crevice. Wide spaces 
were swept bare of snow, which was piled into immense 
drifts farther along. 

The only boat out of harbor during this midwinter 
was the little steam yacht "Ina," just put into commis- 
sion by her venturesome captain, and which lay in the ice 
abreast of Gibraltar Island, partially sheltered, yet get- 
ting a strong brush of the storm. Captain Dodge had 
surprised the islanders, just the day before, by making a 
trip to and from Sandusky, bringing over a cargo of sup- 
plies for ^Middle Bass. From this place the ' ' Ina ' ' steamed 



Thrilling Adventures on Island Waters 387 

to the bay, but found the ice too tough to permit htr 
reaching a safe anchorage in the harbor. In this situation, 
she was struck a few hours later by the storm. Captain 
Dodge dared not leave the boat unmanned, and he and 
the engineer accordingly remained on board all night. 

Many of the islanders were abroad early the following 
morning, expecting to see the little craft crushed in the 
jaws of the fierce euroclydon. All around the little craft 
the ice was broken, and adrift, the boat moving uneasily 
therewith. Her sides were pounded by driving floes, her 
decks showered with surf blown across them. Having had 
nothing to eat for several hours, Capt. Dodge — who pos- 
sesses as many lives apparently as the proverbial feline 
— emulated "Eliza" of Uncle Tom's Cabin fame by per- 
forming the stagey exploit of crossing on foot from boat 
to shore, and back again, with the broken ice swinging 
and bobbing up ond down in the most threatening manner, 
This feat he performed successfully. 

As the gale grew wilder, and the rising water came 
swashing shoreward over the inner rim of harbor ice, yet 
unbroken, alarm for safety of the "Ina" increased. Men 
collected in great numbers on the shore, and projecting 
piers, and an attempt was finally made to send a life-line 
out to the "Ina," and three men in a boat finally suc- 
ceeded, after great difficulty, in reaching her. The line 
necessarily very long was made fast to the "Ina." It w^as 
impossible for her to get through the ice drift nine feet 
deep, so the shoreward end of line was fastened to a dock 
spile. The line held, and the "Ina" weathered the re- 
mainder of the storm in good shape, with only a bucket 
or two broken from her wheel. 



o88 ThrilUiiti Advent uns en Island Wains 

HONORED FOR HEROISM BY "UNCLE SAM." 

While threading her course among the isles of Lake 
Erie one night in October, 1906, steamer "State of Ohio" — 
of the Cleveland & Toledo line — ran afonl of the "Big 
Rattle," one of the isolated masses of earth and rock which 
serve to lengthen the tail of Rattlesnake Island. 

After pacifying the frightened passengers, and sizing 
up the situation, the engines were set working at full heat 
— 'by the captain's orders — but the big steamer proved to 
be hard aground and all attempts to free her were 
unavailing. 

For several days following this accident, wrecking 
tugs — summoned by cablegram — assisted by boats of 
smaller size, pulled their hardest on the stranded craft, 
but faili^d to budge her. Their (efforts were then inter- 
rupted by a violent gale, such as frequently sweeps Lake 
Erie in late autumn, and the wrecking tugs were forced to 
seek shelter at Put-in-Bay, where they remained storm- 
bound two or three days. AVhi'e the blow was at its 
height, a distress signal, flying from the imprisoned "State 
of Ohio," displayed by Captain Sinclair, and two men left 
in charge, was observed by Put-in-Bay islanders, and 
reported to officers of the tugs. Heavy seas cmld be seen 
breaking across the vessel's decks, white wreathing her 
black hull with showering spray. In the belief, however, 
that Captain Sinclair and his men would be safe on the 
little islet, should she succumb to the pounding waves, and 
deeming hazardous any attempt to leave the harbor, the 
signal met with no response from the wreckers. 

Having in the meantime abandoned the vessel. Cap- 
tain Sinclair and companions found themselves marooned 
upon the tiny islet. They had no place to sleep, nothing 





-%??** 

•'"^L 




Tlirilling Adventures on Island Waters 391 

to eat, and no protection from wind and driving spray, 
save that afforded by a few bushes and trees. Eattlesnake 
Island was not far distant, but the man who formed its 
only inhabitant was away, and his hermitage closed. 
Though a reckless undertaking, they resolved to pull for 
Put-in-Bay, distant about two miles, in the steamer's yawl. 
When about half the distance between that place, and the 
"Rattle," a big "comber" lifted the yawl's stem high 
in air, unshipping the oars. The yawl broached and cap- 
sized, flinging the men beneath her. After a desperate 
struggle they succeeded in clutching the keel, to which 
they clung, though repeatedly submerged by the seas that 
swept by. 

After drifting for the space of half an hour, the men 
became very weak from exhaustion. That they could not 
hold on much longer was evident; but Captain Sinclair 
tried to strengthen his companions with the hope that 
someone would see, and come to their rescue. Soon after, 
they saw a puff of smoke coming from behind Gibraltar 
Island — the shores of which form and protect the harbor 
of Put-in-Bay — then a small steam yacht, the "Wayward," 
shot into view. Commanded by Captain Elliott Dodge, 
known as the bravest seaman on the island waters, the 
sight newly inspired the castaways. Captain Dodge, how- 
ever, was having a serious time. All the way out toward 
"Rattlesnake," he was obliged to run slowly, even stop- 
ping at times to allow the yacht to rise upon the sea 
crests, and thus clear herself of water, which kept the 
decks filled even with the bulwarks. The cabin was fre- 
quently submerged, and that the heavy seas would smash 
in doors and windows, filling the cabin and spaces below, 
was the captain's chief fear. 

Sighting from shore the overturned boat, Captain 



W2 



ThriU'uty Adventures on Island Waters 



Dodge had immediately ordered "steam up"; but having 
reached the point near which he had noticed the boat, it 
was no longer visible. A wooden bucket and a drifting 
oar were hiys first guide marks. Then rising upon a sea 
crest within fifty rods, he suddenly saw three small ob- 
jects which he made out to be three men clinging to the 
capsized boat. 

Alone at the wheel, Captain Dodge signaled his crew 
of three men, ordering them to have lines and life buoys 
ready. Fearing that a huge wave might throw the "Way- 
ward" down upon the boat, drowning the men before his 
eyes. Captain Dodge worked slowly. Getting near enough 
at last, the lines were thrown. In a faint voice. Captain 




Capt. Elliott J. Dodge 



ThriUiitg Adventures on Island ^Yateys 393 

Sinclair requested that his two men be rescued first. It 
was with the greatest difficulty that they succeeded in 
fastening the lines about their waists, and were drawn 
aboard. 

By this time Captain Sinclair had become so exhai^sted 
that he could barely hold to the line. He S3emed beyond 
help, indeed, for the "Wayward" had swung round into 
the trough of the sea and was rolling fearfully ; but he 
drifted nearer and, as the yacht rolled her rail under. 
Captain Dodge — who had left the wheel — grasped and 
held him tight. As they drew the half drowned man on 
board, they heard him faintly murmur, "Thank God!" 

The rescued men were placed near the yacht's boilers, 
and covered with warm clothing. The craft then put back 
into the harbor, which she reached without further serious 
difficulties. On landing, the men were still very 
weak and one of the number had to be carried to a hotel. 

Commenting on this occurrence, Captain Sinclair 
said that in all his forty years' experience as a mariner, 
he was never nearer death ; and that but for the timely 
coming of Captain Dodge, and the cool judgment shown 
by him in handling his yacht, he Avould not be alive to 
make the statement. 

A modest man — seldom given to exploiting his many 
daring deeds — Captain Dodge, when afterward questioned 
concerning the adventure, replied simply: "It was 
nothing," and went quietly on his way, thinking no more 
about it. At Christmas time, however, he found amongst 
his gifts a munificent sum of money presented by the 
grateful trio whose lives he had saved. 

Later, when the facts became widely known. Captain 
Dodge was again surprised by the receipt of a gold medal, 



394 TliriUing Adventures on Island Waters 

awarded him for heroism, by the United States Govern- 
ment. 

A CANOEING ADVENTURE AND ITS SEQUEL. 

As a student at one of the leading colleges, and as a 
yonng man of fine ability, superior mental attainments, 
and an all-around athlete, Stanley Brown had won dis- 
tinction among his many companions and friends. 

Of the number, an especial chum and associate was 
John Nelson Williamson of Put-in-Bay. The two young 
men were school friends, in fact, and during his vacations, 
Brown was frequently entertained in the Williamson 
family, who occupied a breezy cottage near the west shore. 

Brown and Williamson spent much of their leisure 
time in aquatic pastimes — fishing, bathing, boating; finally 
for a change taking up canoeing. The young men thought 
little of danger along any line of aquatic sports, and 
handled with agility their tricky and uncertain craft, be- 
coming quite proficient in the use of the paddles. Their 
canoe was frequently seen upon the waters of bay and 
channel, and to the reminiscently inclined gave rise to 
suggestions of old Indian days. 

Having friends at Catawba Island, the boys planned 
a trip thither in their canoe, thinking to give them a 
pleasant surprise. The mother and sister of young Wil- 
liamson remonstrated at that which seemed an unsafe 
undertaking; but the boys laughed away the fears of the 
former and prepared for their adventure. 

The trip across the South channel, made between 
daylight and darkness, was attended by no difficulty, and 
proved a most pleasurable adventure, the evening being 
fine and the lake smooth. 



Tiirilling Adventures on Island Waters 395 

The canoers met their friends, enjoying with them a 
season of social pleasantry. The summer eve was short, 
and the hours sped rapidly — as hours always speed when 
filled with merriment and happiness — and it grew late be- 
fore the adventurers gave any thought to the homeward 
trip. 

At Put-in-Bay, in the meantime, the mother and 
sister of young Williamson watched anxiously for the 
boys' return, noting with concern the gathering clouds 
that began overspreading the night sky. Even as the 
watchers looked and listened for returning footsteps, a 
squall of great violence broke suddenly over lake and 
land. The wind blew a gale, and a sullen boom as of 
breaking waves mounted upward from a weatherward 
I.^dng stretch of rockbound shore. 

Thinking that the young men might have reached 
shore before the squall struck, and would soon be home, 
Mrs. W. and daughter maintained a spirit of hopefulness; 
but as moments lengthened, a feeling of misgiving crept in- 
to their hearts. This, however, was only momentary; for 
relying upon the skill and judgment of the canoers, mother 
and daughter hoped and believed that they had noticed 
the approaching squall and deemed it prudent to remain 
where they were until the morrow. 

Morning dawned pleasantly cool. The wind had sunk 
to a zephyr and save an occasional dead swell that gently 
lapped the rocks, the waters rested. "The boys will soon 
be home" — so said and thought the watchers, but neither 
sight nor sound of their coming cheered the cottage dwel- 
lers, and into their hearts again came a sickening dread of 
possible disaster. 



396 ThiiUiiif) Adiridures on IsJanrl Wafers 

Hastening to a place from whence communication by 
lelephone could be had, Catawba Ishmd was duly wired, 
with inquiries for the absent ones. 

Their worst fears were realized, however, when news 
came back that the canoers had left for home the previous 
night before the storm, and that nothing further was 
known of them. 

The blow fell crushingly upon JMrs. Williamson and 
daughter, though they still hoped that somehow, and some- 
where, the boys had found refuge. A general alarm was 
spread over the island. Adjacent inlands were wired, and 
search parties dispatched in all directions. The over- 
turned canoe was subsequently found, and later the bodies 
of the two canoers were picked up. 

The occurrence was one of deepest sadness. A 
noteworthy feature thereof was the fact that only a few 
years before when John "Williamson, and his brother Car- 
roll, w^ere small lads, they pulled out on the lake in the 
teeth of a withering gale, and picked up and saved from 
drowning, Wm. Bolles, of Toledo, a survivor of the yacht 
"Clipper." 

"THE MYSTERY OF A SHIP." 

Few are the neighborhoods that at sometime in their 
history have not been able to produce a haunted house. 
Some have boasted even more than one ; saying nothing of 
haunted woods, and hollows, and other spook-inf(^sted 
places. 

Haunted ships are more of a novelty: some are dis- 
posed to wholly taboo their existence; and yet we are as- 
sured on good authority that the real thing in this line 
can be produced. 



ThriJUng Adventures on Island AYatcrs 397 

The poet John G. Whittier graphically describes one 
of these haunted crafts in a poem' entitled, "The Dead 
Ship of Harpswell." 

The opening stanzas run as follows : 

"What flecks the outer gray beyond, 

The sundown 's golden trail ; 
The white flash of a sea bird's wing. 

Or gleam of slanting sail? 

"Let young eyes watch from neck, and point, 

And seaworn elders pray ; 
The ghost of what was once a ship, 

Is sailing up the bay. 

"In vain o'er Harpswell neck, the star 

Of evening guides her in ; 
In vain for her the lamps are lit, 

"Within thy tower, Seguin. 

"In vain the harbor boat shall hail, 

In vain the pilot call; 
No hand shall reef her spectral sail, 

Nor let her anchor fall." 

Sounds a bit uncanny, yet vouched for was this 
phantom ship, by reliable old "salts" from whom the 
poet got his story first-handed. 

By the simple fisherfolk of "Harpswell neck," it 
seems that the appearance of this spook ship was regarded 
as an evil omen, presaging the death of some one in that 
immediate locality. 



398 Thrilling Adventures on Island Waters 

Also vouched for are the spook stories innumei"able 
told of the schooner, "Col. Cook," once familiar on Lake 
Erie. 

Conceded to be haunted, not only, was the "Col. 
Cook," but haunted by very malignant and troublesome 
spooks that got the craft into all kinds of messes and made 
no end of worry and annoyance for officers and crew. 

The "Col. Cook" was accused of many misdeameanors 
an strange and ugly tantrums. As to whether any of 
her many "controls" ever served as a cook, is a mooted 
question; though the ringing of the schooner's dinner 
bell at unseemly hours by hands unseen might lead up to 
this conclusion. 

The craft had a habit, 'tis also asserted, of vicio^isly 
dumping overboard the individual who thoughtlessly 
seated himself upon her railing. This she accomplished 
by an unexpected jerk, or by suddenly keeling over on her 
beam ends, when not a breath of air was stirring. An 
incident of this kind, it is said, happened off Sandusky, 
nearly resulting in the drowning of the steward. 

Sailors looking for jobs fought shy of the "Col. Cook" 
— those at least who knew her reputation ; and neither for 
love nor money could they be induced to ship on board of 
her, though the schooner's captain offered five dollars 
more per month than was paid by other vessels of her 
class. Seamen of a less superstitious makeup, who did 
not take stock in the stories told concerning the schooner, 
regarded as quite an inducement the extra wages offered; 
but a trip or two was all that they could stand. 

Some of these sailors told strange tales about spectral 
forms appearing before them, when engaged with duties 
in the rigging, and about the decks at night; and that 
these uncanny visitors sought to relieve them of these 



Thrilling Adventures on Island AYaters 399 

duties by assuming control, and persisting in changing the 
vessel's course, or bringing her to a stop. At midnight, 
when all save the deck watch were fast asleep and the 
cabin dark, the sleepers were sometimes aroused by the 
sound of musical instruments played close to their ears. 

The entire crew of the "Col. Cook," it is said, were 
kept busy at times in keeping her before the wind. At other 
times, when sailing, the sheets would become unfastened 
in the most unaccountable manner, the booms swing away 
from their required position, and regardless of the wheels- 
man's efforts, the vessel would go scudding before the 
wind. 

All this time, covering a period of many years, the 
"Col. Cook" had been masquerading under an assumed 
name, in an effort on the part of her owners to hide the 
schooner's identity, for she was really the "Augusta." 
With this name was associated the greatest marine disaster 
that ever occurred on the Great Lakes. The schooner was 
responsible, in fact, for the sinking of the passenger 
steamer "Lady Elgin," on Lake Michigan, Sept. 8th, 
1860, and the drowning of 375 passengers — men, women, 
and children. 

The "Lady Elgin" was a Canadian steamer, named 
in honor of the wife of the Governor General of British 
Columbia and ranked at that period as one of the largest 
and finest steamers afloat on the Great Lakes. 

The "Elgin" was returning from Chicago to Duluth 
with an excursion. She cleared from Chicago at about 
nine o'clock in the evening. Out a short distance on Lake 
Michigan, the lights of an approaching vessel were observed, 
and the "Elgin's" captain signalled that the steamer would 
pass to starboard. The approaching vessel proved to be 
the "Augusta," which kept straight on her course until 



JOO TJiriUiiifj Advoifiors on I.'iland ^Yafr)■s 

within forty-five yards of the steamer, when, without any 
warning, she veered abruptly and came tearing like a mad 
bnll towards the passenger steamer. An instant later, 
the two vessels collided. The impact broke off the 
"Augusta's" jib-boom, and the remaining stump gored 
the "Lady Elgin's" side, smashing in the planking, and 
creating a gap of large size. 

The crew of the ' ' Augusta, ' ' it seems, made no attempt 
to save the steamer's passengers, but continued on their 
course after the collision. So tremendous was the rush of 
water through the "Elgin's" side, that in less than ten 
minutes, and before the boats could be launched, the 
steamer went down. Eighteen only out of 375 passengers 
succeeded in reaching shore. 

Though on a smaller scale, the loss of the "Lady 
Elgin," formed a parallel to the recent loss of the 
"Titanic," in that she carried as passengers many people 
of great prominence. Among the number were seventy- 
five members of a widely known vocal society of INIilwau- 
kee. Col. Robert Ingraham, of the "London Illustrated 
News," was also a passenger. 

It was afterwards claimed that when the "Augusta's" 
wheel was turned to starboard, the vessel immediately 
went hard a-port, causing her to butt into the steamer. 
The outcome of this gruesome affair was generally believed 
to be the results of a fiendish plot on the part of certain 
individuals on board the "Augusta" to sink the "Lady 
Elgin"; though the captain himself was exonerated from 
complicity therein. The schooner frequently docked at 
jNIilwaukee, and residents of that place who had suffered 
the loss of friends and neighbors, awaited eagerly the 
schooner's appearance in that port, swearing vengeance 
against her officers and crew, but tlie "Augusta" never 



Thrilling Adventures on Island ^Vaters 401 

again showed up at that place. A week later, it is said, 
she set sail under the name "Col. Cook." 

At one time when the "Col. Cook" lay sunk between 
the islands and Sandusky, her protruding masts attracted 
much attention from passengers of the island steamers. 
She was subsequently raised and floated, but only to 
get into further trouble. 

The drowning of the "Col. Cook's" captain and mate 
on Lake Michigan in recent years, under peculiar circum- 
stances that smacked strongly of the supernatural, 
formed the last of her more notable adventures, and 
closed her career as a sailing vessel. 

Insurance men would take no chances on the schooner, 
and sailors would not ship on board of her. She w^as 
accordingly made into a tow barge. She then became to 
the marine world a nameless relic, a number supplying the 
place of a name. The old craft was finally consigned to 
that which is known as the "marine graveyard" for 
abandoned vessels at Cleveland, Ohio, where today her 
gaunt ribs lie rotting. 

If in the hereafter schooners are required to give an 
account of deeds done while afloat, this one no doubt will 
be given a long and black score. 

A poem entitled: "The Lady Elgin, or The Mystery 
of a Ship" — possessed of W'cird beauty and power, is ex- 
tant. Below are given a few of its opening stanzas: 

"Down, down a hundred fathoms deep, 

The Lady Elgin lies; 
Above her sunbright argosies sweep, 

And the howling tempest flits. 



402 ThyiJJhu] Adventures on Island Waters 

"Lonely and lifeles*-", deathly still, 

In the weltering- cold abyss ; 
A thing for the drifting sands to fill, 

And the wandering wave to kiss. 

"Deep down, mortal, down with me, 
Till we stand in her grand saloon; 

And gaze on a drowned ship's mystery, 
By the light of a diowning moon." 

A song entitled "The Lady Elgin" was also published 
soon after the sinking of that steamer, and became very 
popular, and is still heard among residents of the lake 
regions. The song runs as follows : 

"LTp from the poor man's cottage. 
Out of the mansion door ; 
Sweeping across the harbor, 
And echoing along the shore, 
Fanned by the morning breezes. 
Drawn by the evening gale, 
Cometh the voice of mourning, 
A sad, and solemn wail. 

"Hark, 'tis the voice of children, 
Weeping for parents gone ; 
Children that slept at evening, 
Orphans at Avake of dawn. 
Sisters for brothers weeping, 
Husbands for missing wives, 
These are the ties that were sundered. 
In those three hundred lives. 



Thrilling Adventures on Island Waters 403 

''Staunch was the noble steamer, 
Precious the freight she bore, 
Gaily she swept the harlior, 
But a few short hours before ; 
Gaily she loosed her cable, 
Joyously rang her bell, 
Little did they think ere morning, 
It would toll so sad a knell." 

Cho. 
''Lost, on the Lady Elgin, 
Sinking to rise no more, 
Numbered with that three hundred, 
Who failed to reach the shore." 



Lights Out. 




Viewed from the shores of Pt. an Pelee, 

Largest of Erie's isles; 
Ijimned darkly 'gainst the sea line gray, 

Where castellated piles; 

Of clond shapes come and go again, 

Appears a speck of earth ; 
Far Middle Island, looming plain, 

Thongh small its size, and girth. 

'Twixt ''Uncle Samuel's" stamping grounds. 

And Canada's domains, 
This tiny islet marks the bounds, 

And thus importance claims. 

Out-reaching sands with driftwood strewn. 
And rough rocks gird it round; 

A lighthouse gray, a cottage lone, 
Upon its shores are found. 

There, hermit-like, once lived a man, 

"Who tended well the lights; 
When winds were strong, and seas high ran, 

On dark and stormy nights. 

Towards them cruising mariners, 

Oft turned an anxious gaze; 
And fisher folk of Pt. au Pelee, 

Hailed, too, the cheering blaze; 



(404) 



Lights Out 405 

When in their tossing boats they neared, 

A line of breakers white; 
For "Chickanola" reef they feared, 

Dim showing through the night. 

Trusty alike in stonn and calm, 

The keeper long had proved; 
For screaming gulls, and tuneful psalm, 

Of breaking seas he loved. 

But from the tower one stai-less night, 

Was missed at last the glow ; 
Of Middle Island's beacons bright, 

Athwart the sea below. 

The fisher folk of Pt. au Pelee, 

Marvelled, and shook their heads ; 
And watched for newly kindled ray. 

Till late — then sought their beds. 

But not to sleep, for anxious grown, 

And full of questioning; 
Their thoughts towards the lighthouse lone, 

Persistently took wing. 

Three grimy fishermen, next day, 

Their pound boat early beached; 
On Middle Isle, and soon the gray 

Walled lighthouse tower they reached. 

No sound upon the stillness Ijroke, 

No sign of life was there ; 
Save mocking echoes that awoke 

When by the winding stair; 



406 Lights Out 

They climbed in speechless wonder wrapped, 
Up where the lamps were placed ; 

There — calm in dreamleas slumber lapped, 
A ghastly pallor traced — 

Upon his lips ; the keeper lay — 

An object now of dread — 
For with the lamps, life's latest ray. 

Had flickered — and was dead. 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 

THEIE TEIALS AND ADYEiN^TTJEES. 



Life as pursued in the lighthouses of Lake Erie, sum- 
mer and winter, presents many interesting phases. 
"Uncle Sam" takes good care of his servitors, the light- 
house keepers, in their lonely isolation, and they in turn 
reward him with their faithful service. 

As a rule the keepers of lonely light stations are 
retiring, like their homes. To l:e lonely in a spot so 
prodigal of attractions as "Parker's Point," location of 




Put-in-Bay Lighthouse 

the Put-in-Bay lighthouse, would be unreasonable indeed, 
if Thoreau is to be credited when he says: "There can he 
no very black melancholy to him who lives in the midst of 
Nature." 

"Parker's Point" from the island's southwest ex- 
tremity, and the road leading thither from the Bay, afford 

(407) 



dOS Lake Eric Light Keepers 

a most delightful drive, even in winter. Pretty summer 
cottages and the less showy but more substantial dwellings 
of islanders are seen ; the former closely barred and de- 
serted, the latter with smoke curling over snow-white 
roofs. One's attention is also attracted by a succession of 
vineyards and peach orchards, which, even at this season, 
are not wholly destitute of life, though denuded of fruit 
and foliage, for the owners are abroad amcng them in 
Avhite canvas coats with high storm collars, buckskin mit- 
tens and rubber boots, pruning away last season's super- 
fluous growths. The highway grows rough with ledges of 
lime rock, finally narrowing to an unfenced wagon track 
that has never known the combings of a road scraper. 
Hedges of red cedar and snow-smothered copses appear, 
with new and charming scenic effect, at every turn of the 
erratic trail that brings us to our destination. 

On the extreme point looms the lighthouse — not the 
gloomy, grey structure around which fancy has woven a 
web of romance, but an edifice of modern construction. 
It is the newest, costliest, and most practical for its in- 
tended purposes of all the lighthouses on Lake Erie. Un- 
like the old variety, which is pretty much all tower, afford- 
ing small space for the tender's quarters, this modern 
house has plenty of room for all needs. The main building 
serves the purpose of a dwelling, the tower being the least 
conspicuous part, save as it adds to the general height. 
The occupants here live in comfort and even luxury. From 
the tower is obtained a fine view of the shore on both 
sides; native cedars fringing with their dark green the 
beetling bluffs, and fallen rock masses, and contrasting 
strangely with the ice hummocks below. Here, also, may 
be seen a marvelously beautiful object — the lense through 
which effulgence is shed over Erie in wild nights of storm, 



Lahe Erie Light Keepers 409 

for the benefit of mariners. This lense radiates all the 
colors of the prism. Its purchase price was $1,500. Just 
now it is kept carefully covered, there being no use for it 
at this season, all Lake Erie stations having extinguished 
their lights with the close of navigation. 

In matters of housekeeping, "Uncle Sam" is very- 
particular — a regular "hen-hussy," in fact. From tower 
to basement, everything must be kept bright and shining. 

During the summer outing season many tourists and 
other visitors are piloted up the winding tower stairs to 
the lamp room. Most important among summer visitors, 
however, and one who always comes unannounced, is the 
U. S. Lighthouse Inspector. On the occasion of his visit, 
everything must be found spick and span, even to the 
light keeper's uniform, in which he is expected to appear. 

Winter brings immunity to the light keeper, both from 
government inspection, and curiosity seekers. At this 
season only the resident islanders pay their visits to the 
lighthouse family and find welcome and good cheer. 

An example of what wind and wave can do may be 
seen upon the northwest side of "Parker's Point," after 
a hard wintry gale, when the ice is running. Huge ice 
drifts shove up and under the rocks, and, grounding in 
the lake at their base, pile to a height of from ten to fifty 
feet, forming a chaotic, yet marvelously ebautiful spectacle. 
The abrupt shore in the immediate vic'nity of the light 
station is accessible only at one place, where it is scaled 
by a flight of stairs, up which supplies are carried from 
the government lighthouse tender Haze which puts in at 
stated intervals for the purpose, when the lake is navi- 
gable, anchoring off shore. 

While to the lighthouse of romance is invariably at- 
tached a tale of love or tragedy, so of this guardian of 



410 



Lair Erie Light Keepers 



"Parker's Point" is related a story not lacking in tragic 
interest, although without the love feature. During the 
smallpox scare of 1898 a portion of Put-in-Bay Island, in- 
cluding the "Point," was under quarantine. The light- 
house keeper had as a servant an old darky known as 
"Black Sam." Half crazed with fear of the contagion, 
the negro tried to escape one night by breaking past the 
quarantine guards, liut was unsuccessful. He then re- 
turned to the station, refusing to enter, remaining without 
and howling like a wild beast through the night. In the 
morning his dead body was found on the rock below, 
whither he had thrown himself. On discovering his fate 
the lighthouse keeper became insane and subsequently 
died in the asylum. 

Put-in-Bay light was kept for several years by Mr. 
Mason now at Ashtabula. Present keeper is Mr. Duggan. 
The latter moved there from "West Sister Isle, w^here with 
his family he spent five years. 

Hibernating at Green Island, two miles to the north- 




Green Island Lighthouse of Today — Photo by Geo. Fergueson 



Lake Eric Light Keepers 411 

west of Put-in-Bay, may be found another employe of 
*' Uncle Sam," George Fergueson, who has held the posi- 
tion of lighthouse keeper there since June, 1905, a faithful 
wife having been his only companion during that period. 

]\rr. Fergueson, the present keeper, has been in the 
government service for a period of fourteen years. Having 
served three years at the Ashtabula Life Saving station, 
he was appointed, in 1901, assistant keeper of Detroit 
River light. 

A year later he was promoted to keeper of "Black 
River" light at Lorain. Ohio. After serving there two 
years, he transferred to Green Island, where he has been 
employed for the past eight years. 

jMr. Fergueson and wife have rendered assistance to 
several small launches, and sail boats, while at Green 
Island, bringing them ashore, and caring for them until 
Mr. Fergueson could fix up their boats, and send them on 
their several ways. 

In recent years, Mr. Fergueson has suffered much 
from ill health and his plucky little wife thinks nothing 
of jumping into a boat and pulling across a mile of open 
water, through all kinds of weather, for a doctor. Latterly, 
however, they have arranged a code of flag signals with 
the Put-in-Bay light keeper. When assistance is required, 
they signal from the tower. At night, lights are used in- 
stead of flags. 

Mr. Gibeaut held the position of keeper on Green 
Island for several years, having many adventures ; but Mr. 
Fergueson 's immediate successor was owner of a splendid 
team of Italian gi-eyhounds, and with a sled of ample size 
made daily trips across the ice to Put-in-Bay, carrying 
bis children to and from school. The dogs were provided 



412 Lake Erie Light Keepers 

with a light but fancy set of harness and made the run 
with remarkable swiftness. 

This station is one of historic environment. The 
island contains about twenty acres of land, is government 
property, and consequently without state or county 
jurisdiction. The first lighthouse, erected in early days, 
was destroyed by fire, on the night of January 1, 1862 — - 
a night that stands on record as the coldest ever known in 
this country. Circumstances attending the occurrence 
conspire to form a story of thrilling interest, as graph- 
ically told by old timers, then young men and women. 

A day of summer mildness had ended with a sudden 
change. A gale of terrific fury having sprung up, the 
mercury dropped, within an hour, from 60 degrees above, 
to 25 degrees below zero. At one of the halls on Put-in- 
Bay, a group of young people had assembled for a New 
Year's dance, and were gathered about a big "ten plate" 
stove trying to keep warm, while the tempest shrieked, 
and the building shook. Suddenly the windows were 
illumined by a flame that shot up over the distant tree- 
tops and soon was heard the cry: "Green Island light- 
house is on fire ! " " Green Island lighthouse is on fire ! ' ' 

A thrill of horror swept over the group, as swiftly 
upon each dawned the full significance of such disaster 
to the light keeper, Colonel Drake and his family alone on 
the little isle, the wild storm, the darkness, and the 
tremendous sea cutting them off from all human aid. 
The keeper's son, Pitt Drake, who was present in the hall, 
became frenzied with forebodings concerning their 
safety, and only wnth the greatest difficulty could the 
young man be restrained from launching forth in a small 
boat, which would have meant to him certain death. 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 413 

A night of suspense — shared by the whole island 
population— drew at last to a close. Though the wind still 
blew, bitter cold held Lake Erie in its grip, and, heavy 
with slush ice, the water gradually calmed and froze 
rapidly until the two-mile stretch between the two islands 
was thinly bridged. 

How the brave islanders who volunteered relief to the 
lire sufferers reached Green Island over that dangerous 
skim, still heavily undulating from the swell of outside 
breakers, remains to all but themselves a mystery. 

Dragging a light cutter, and a boat, and provided with 
wraps and blankets for the unfortunates — if still alive — ■ 
they reached the place. They, saw not a soul and deep 
silence brooded over all. That the family had perished 
by fire, or freezing, was the grim conclusion forced upon 
the seekers. Later, however, they were surprised and re- 
lieved to find the lighthouse occupants in an outhouse 
used as a summer shelter for a cow. Colonel Drake, the 
light keeper, his wife and two daughters, IMiss Sarah 
Drake, and ^Irs. Gregoier, the latter 's husband, and their 
child — six persons — were all tucked together under a 
feather bed, which alone saved them from death by 
freezing. 

Gathered in the family sitting room, the evening be- 
fore, no thought of evil had come to the station dwellers 
until they heard above the roar of the gale the sound of 
crackling flames; when the whole upper portion of the 
structure was found to be ablaze. Shortly before this 
discovery, they heard a cat, that had gone upstairs, jump- 
ing about and making a great racket. They then thought 
that the cat was playing, but afterwards knew that the 
imprisoned animal was smothering with smoke. The 



414 Lake Erie Light Keepers 

family were about to partake of the evening meal when 
the discovery was made — so they had no supper. 

Suffering from ill health. Col. Drake was physically 
unable to do much in this emergency, but served well in 
wisely suggesting and directing his son-in-law, ]\Ir. 
Gregoier. While the latter and Col. Drake prepared to 
fight the fire by donning boots and coats, the women 
rushed in consternation from the house, Miss Drake with 
bare head and arms and slippered feet. Mounting a lad- 
der, Gregoier made a brave effort to stay the flames. 

The lake was such a seething mass of running ice and 
spouting surf, that no one could go near it; but a cistern 
supplied water, and the women dipped it up in pails and 
carried it up the laddei'; but the fire steadily gained 
and Gregoier was forced to retreat. They then gave at- 
tention to the saving of a few valuables, also a few pieces 
of furniture, Col. Drake assisting. The last article car- 
ried out by Col. Drake was the big government clock be- 
longing to the light station. The clock was badly damaged 
by fire. It was afterwards sent away for repairs, and 
after the erection of the new lighthouse on Green Island, 
the clock was placed therein, where it again did service. 

Thoughts of his family's precarious condition suddenly 
fiashed upon the mind of the keeper. Unless he could se- 
cure bedding with which to protect them from the cold, 
they must inevitably perish, since no help could reach 
them until the sea went down. At his suggestion Gregoier 
darted into the burning structure and upstairs. Flames 
singed hair and beard, and smoke blinded and choked him ; 
but he reached a bedroom, and with two ticks, one filled 
with feathers, the other with straw — rolled into a com- 
forter — he threw them out of the window, and jumped, 
landing upon them. Hands and face were badly burned. 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 415 

though he felt it not. Blown by the blest, uncurbed flames 
now leaped to full height, and in the vivid glare, lines of 
breakers, snowy white with foam, could be seen rushing 
shoreward. Breaking at the tower's rocky base, spray 
rose to a height of forty feet, freezing as it fell in show^ers 
upon the steps, and forming a literal pavement of ice 
along the fire's margin. This weird illumination, coupled 
with storm and darkness, and the roar of waves, and 
flames, combined to form a scene of the most f^avage gran- 
deur. When nothing more could be done, Miss Drake, who 
had shown remarkable endurance, sank into an almost in- 
sensible condition. Examination showed that her ears, 
arms, and limbs were frozen stiff. 

The bedding was removed to the stable and members 
of the family, including Miss Drake, were tucked in be- 
tween the two beds. Col. Drake fished an iron kett'e from 
the fire and put the girl's feet into it. Hot bricks were 
also taken from the fire and piled around the couch, where 
crowding each other between the two beds the six light- 
house occupants remained all night, and a part of the 
next day — their only prevention from freezing to death. 

When rescued the next morning the unfortunates 
were taken to the home of Mr. and Mrs. John Stone, Put- 
in-Bay — nearest place to Green Island. Mrs. Stone had 
prepared in advance everything for their relief, and com- 
fort. Afterwards, in referring to the circumstance, ^Irs. 
Stone was wont to observe: "No one knows how I felt 
that morning: I didn't know whether to prepare for the 
living or the dead." 

They w^ere in much better condition than could have 
been expected, in fact, thanks to God, and the bedding 
saved. Some of the outcasts were given shelter at the 
home of Phillip Vroman. When sufficiently recovered 



416 Lake Erie Light Keepers 

from the shock, and from their injuries, Mr. and Mrs. 
Gregoier returned to their home on Catawba Island, ac- 
companied by Col. Drake and family. 

Mrs. John K. Burg, of Catawba Island, daughter of 
Mr. and Mrs. Gregoier, and granddaughter of Col. Diake, 
is now the only one living of the six persons who were at 
Green Island the night of the fire. Though but a little 
child at that time, she retains a vivid remembrance of the 
events of that awful night. 

More isolated than either of the above mentioned, is 
the light station on Middle Island, lying just across the 
international boundary, eight miles from Put-in-Bay. For 
a period of fifty or sixty years, the lonely dwelling con- 
nected with the grey towered structure, has had a succes- 
sion of occupants. Sometimes a family, at other times a 
single individual, takes possession as light tender, where, 
during a considerable portion of the winter, the occupant 
is practically exiled, and leads a life as solitary as that of 
Robinson Crusoe. 

One of the IMiddle light keepers of recent years, 
Avho lived alone, was found dead at his post by fishermen, 
who, missing his light, came to investigate. His lights had 
gone out for w^ant of oil. 

Of Jack Ludlow, another Middle Island light keeper, 
is related the following: 

Jack Ludlow, the keeper of the Middle Island light- 
house, and Robert Carnegie, at one time employed as 
keeper of the Sandusky Yacht club, had a terrible expe- 
rience Wednesday night when they lost the rudder cf their 
18-foot launch between Kelleys Island and Put-in-Bay and 
spent the greater part of the night adrift on Lake Erie. 

The rowboat, which is kept for use at the lighthouse, 
w^orked itself loese in some manner and drifted out on the 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 



417 



lake about 8:30 o'clock and the two men set out after it 
in a small naptha launch. They finally overhauled the 
boat and placed it in tow. Owing to the heavy seas, how- 
ever, the boat partly filled with Avater and being tossed 
about in the heavy sea the painter in some manner caught 
in the rudder of the launch and tore it loose. 

A heavy gale commenced to blow about 9 o'clock and 
although the engine of the launch remained in perfect 
order the men were helpless and at the mercy of the wind, 
which finally dashed them on the rocks on the eastern 
shore of Put-in-Bay near Deisler's beaxjh. 

The boat was lifted bodily over a ledge of rocks fully 
six feet high and left high and dry on the shore. The 
launch was partially demolished, eight holes being torn 
in her bottom, besides other damage. 

The two men were completely exhausted and numb 
with the cold. 

Concerning West Sister Isle, its lighthouse, and its 
lonely dwellers, many stories of thrilling and romantic in- 




West Sister Island Light 



-J 18 Lake Eric Light Keepers 

terest have been told. A mention, clipped from a news- 
paper, may be noted in this connection : 

Capt. Charles Fitzmorris, keeper of West Sister light, 
was in Toledo this week, stepping upon the mainland for 
the first time since Lake Erie froze over in December. 
Capt. and ]\Irs. Fitzmorris were the only persons on the 
island during the winter, practically imprisoned in mid- 
Lake Erie for nearly four months, during which time they 
had no possible means of communication with another 
human being. 

West Sister Island, 13 miles eastward of Toledo 
harbor light, lies about a mile and a half north of the 
course of the Toledo & Put-in-Ba.y i-ttamers. About 85 acres 
in area, it is owned by the government. A favorite stop- 
ping point for Toledo yachts during the summer, it is iso- 
lated during the remainder of the year. Several tragic 
events in previous years have been the result of this im- 
prisonment by the elements. One keeper died on the is- 
land and his son nearly perished making his way over the 
ice to the mainland for assistance. 

Capt. Fitzmorris provides against emergencies as 
thoroughly as possible, keeping several cows and beef 
cattle as well as large flocks of poultry over winter, and 
laying in a liberal stock of other provisions before the ice 
forms. This year, he says, the ice around the inland aver- 
aged 32 inches in thickness and on the northeast shore was 
piled up far above the land level. 

"Middle Ground" lighthouse, at Pelee Island, is a 
stately structure, romantic as to environment, and forms 
an important link in ihe chain of Lake P]iie lighthouses. 

Eanging with the station lights, here noted, and 
widely known, from its prominent position, to lake mari- 
ners, is the lighthouse on Point oMarblehead — a massive 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 



419 



tower of marble whiteness, giving significance to the name. 
This station guards a dangerous coast, displaying a white 





Marblehead Light Station — Photo by Otto Herbster 

flash light of great power. Near at hand is the station, 
and "lookout" of the United States life-saving crew. 

Cedar Point lighthouse, across from Marblehead, over- 
looks the entrance to Sandusky Bay, and might tell many 
a story of wreck and disaster; but of all situations, the 



420 



Lake Erie Light Keepers 



inost trying ones are found upon the outermost "jetty," 
displaying the "range," or channel lights of Sandusky 
Bay. Though rising like a fairy palace out of the sea, the 
boom of breaking waves all around the cribbed structure 
when a Nor'easter sweeps Lake Erie, must be a bit dis- 
turbing, even to persons of nerve ; 

"With nothing but waves to seaward, 
And the grim rocks toward the land ; 
The roll of the black clouds over, 
And the breakers on every hand." 

In winter, however, the jetty tender sings another 
song, a pair of skates or an ice yacht putting him in 
touch with friends on shore. 




Jetty or Range Lighthouse 



Tying a How Together. 



Out in the vineyard overgrown, 

And dense, they worked 'mid spreading canes; 

Fast to the wires they tied the vines, 

He and she with infinite pains. 

The lad was bashful, she was coy, 
And wide apart were the rows they tied; 
The maid's deft lingers flew apace, 
The lad to overtake her tried. 

Back and forth through the tangled maze, 
They moved with bundles each of straw; 
And though with haste John twisted ties, 
He could no nearer Becky draw. 

Back and forth till the lad perspired, 
Yet still apart they widely kept ; 
Snubbed by a girl, and beaten, too. 
Poor John was mad, though he almost wept. 

But bye and bye, as swift she sped. 
Our peerless tier later found ; 
A spot where vines wild running lay. 
Sprawling, and matted on the ground. 

John saw his chance— for deep chagrin. 
His sense of gallantry obscured; 
And soon he left her far behind. 
Which paid him rich for snubs endured. 
(421) 



422 



Tying a liow Together 




Wide Apart Were the Rows They Tied — Photo by Author 

'Twas Becky's turn to take offense, 
And though no word the maiden spoke ; 
Reproachful were her glances cast, 
And John's deep set resentment broke. 

He backward turned to proffer help, 
And Becky glad acceptance gave ; 
So winsome were the maiden's smiles, 
That bashful John grew strangely brave. 



"How^ would it be" — he naively asked, 
As toward the maid he craned his neck— 
"For us to take a single row, 
And tie it through together, Beck?" 



Tying a liow Together 



423 



Again, acceptance made him glad, 
And ever since, the matted canes, 
On life's long row they've jointly tied- 
Ile and she with infinite pains. 




Tying a Row Together — Photo by Author 



Grape Culture Among the Erie 
Isles. 



Excepting a few orchards and an occasional garden, 
truck patch, or pasture lot, practically the whole area of 
the Bass Islands, including Put-in-Bay, Middle Bass and 
Isle St. George, is covered with vineyards from shore to 
shore. 

The main portion of Kelley's Island is in like man- 
ner devoted to grape growing. 

As to methods of cultivation, grapes are usually 
planted in rows about eight feet apart, there being a space 
of four or five feet between the hills. Posts of cedar are 
commonly used, and the vines are trained over three- 
wired trellises extending the length of each row. 




.v^--* 



■N 



Pruning Grape Vines 

Pruning begins immediately after grapes are harvest- 
ed in the fall, and may be continued through the winter 

(424) 



Grape Culture Among the E)ic Isles 425 

on until the 1st of April, at the vine grower's discretion. 
Fall and winter pruning are considered as good as that of 
early spring — if not better — and it saves time during the 
busy season. 

The islander has learned to cut his vines closely. 
While the crop produced on scant wood is not so heavy, 
the quality of the fruit is much better, and it ripens earlier 
and more perfectly than when the vines are crowded. 

The grape brush is carried out with a pitchfork, or 
is dragged forth by means of a rudely improvised horse- 
rake, is piled into heaps and burned. The multitudinous 
bonfires from burning grape brush environing with smoke 
the islands round is a noticeable feature of an island 
spring and comes contemporaneously with early wood 
flowers, and dandelion greens. 





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Driving Grape Posts 



Post driving next receives attention. This is done as 
soon as the frost is out of the ground, and before the 
ground gets settled. The wires are then repaired, stretched 
and tightened and the vineyard is ready for tying. 



426 Grape Culture Aynong the Erie Isles 

This is done with slender, wiry shoots of the yellow willow, 
cultivated for this purpose. Regularly each spring the 
trees are beheaded, and the young shoots trimmed into 
shape with a pair of grape shears, are bound into bundles 
and placed in a cellar, or damp place, where they are kept 
until required. Ties are of different kinds, and are very 
deftly and quickly made by adepts in the art, a single 
shoot forming from one to four ties, according to length. 
The canes are well spread, the ends being tied to the first 
and second wires. The willow bundle is fastened with a 
string about the tyer's waist, and the lengths are cut with 
a pair of grape shears. The black willow is sometimes 
used, but is brittle and breaks more easily than the yellow. 
The second tying takes place when the new foliage is well 
expanded, about the latter part of June. Rye grown for 
the purpose is used. It is cut with a rickle and bound into 
sheaves. AVith an ax, or on a feed cutter, the sheaf is 
again cut into 12-inch lengths and made into bundles. 
Long, heavy growths are tied to the upper wire, and the 
overlapping tops are in some cases broken off. From two 
to three straws form an ample tie, which is made the same 
as that of the willow. Should the straw become dry be- 
fore using, it is moistened. Reeds, such as grow along the 
edges of land-locked bays and inlets, sometimes take the 
place of rye straw and work nicely. 

That island grapes are a surer and more prolific crop, 
and bear a finer flavor than those grown on the mainland, 
is a generally recognized fact, due in part to natural 
drainage and corresponding dryness of the soil, and to the 
protection from frost — spring and fall — afforded by the 
great body of water surrounding the group. Seldom are 
these islands visited bv the stinging frosts such as devas- 



Grape Culture Amoig the Erie Isles 427 

tate mainland sections. The season is later by two or 
three weeks, and the foliage retains its freshness longer. 
Late ripening varieties, including the Catawba — grape of 
commerce — are thus afforded ample chance to mature, and 
may hang upon the vines without injury until mid- 
November. 

In an average season, picking begins the latter part 
of August, lasting until about the fiist of November. 
When girdling is employed to force the lipening, picking 
may begin at a still earlier date. For this early product, 
basketed and sold as table grapes, there is a sharp demand. 
Agents representing the commission houses of mainland 
cities are always on time with their bids, and wl en the 
grapes show a good color and are sweet erough to put 
upon market, without spoiling, th' hustle commences. 
During the outing season the islanders are kept busy en- 
tertaining the thousands of summer visitors wl o frequent 
their shores, yet it remains for tlie autumn grape harvest 
to initiate the grand rush, in which almcst the entire 
population joins. Cargoes of baskets ariive by inland 
steamers; these are quickly seized and carried away by 
wagon loads. It frequently happens that there are not 
enough to go around, and as the first who come are the 
first served it is necessary for the shipj er, f nxious to push 
his harvest, to reach the wharves in time to grab a share 
of the baskets while they are going. The mere provident, 
who have storage room, do not wait until the rush begins, 
but secure their baskets whenever convenient, storing them 
away until needed. 

In former years table grapes were shipped in half- 
bushel baskets, but the size now in common use, known as 
"fifths," hold one-fifth of a bushel, and are handled by 



428 Grape Culture Among the Erie Isles 

the commission houses. Another popular size holds about 
five pounds. There are still others holding eight and ten 
pounds. Small baskets are generally used in supplying 
the "fine trade." Especial care is taken in packing them 
with choice grapes that have been closely looked over. 
These are shipped to the order of large retail grocers in 
the cities. 

On markets, wherever placed, island grapes command 
quicker sales and higher prices than are paid for the 
mainland product. Among staple varieties that figure in 
the early picking are the Champion, Niagara, "Wilder, 
Warden, Massasoit, Salem — white and purple — Golden 
Pocklington, Noah, and Hartford. The Concord, Dela- 
ware, Norton's Virginia seedling and Ives seedling come 
next in order. The latest, the Catawba, leads in extent, 
as it does in value, representing a larger acreage than all 
of the other varieties combined and commanding in gen- 
eral a higher price. 

Nearly every island dweller picks grapes, regardless 
of standing or occupation. Men, women, children, all 
take a hand at the grape harvest. Dishes go unwashed, 
floors unswept, while for visitors and book agents there is 
positively no show^ The island forces not being sufficient, 
however, help from the mainland is also employed. Of 
prospects seen, or imagined, none of¥er such pleasing in- 
ducement to mainland girls as this. They are just crazy 
to go, not alone for the excellent wages to be earned, but 
for the enjoyment afforded. Numbered with this contin- 
gent from abroad, erudite schoolma'ams are found, to- 
gether with stylish appearing shop and slore girls — all 
out for a "tearing good time." That they have it, goes 
Avithout saying. An individual who fai^s to appreciate 



Grape Culture Among the Eric Isles 



429 



anj^thing so delightful as an island grape harvest must 
be hopelessly prosy. 

In the season's earlier stages considerable gleaning 
may be required to find the ripened clusters, but later, 
when every passing zephyr brings odors rare and deli- 



Hk^9I d ' mhK "^'^xjbiil '^^■[^^B^^h^b 


m^^L.im^^^SM^it^, 


; . ., 'V •;•;'•.. ''''^ " ^ 




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^'^^^niK 




fxr^v 







A Vineyard Arbor — Photo by Author 



cious, from vineyards across which they have strayed, and 
the sweetness wafted outward over bay and channel tickles 
the nostrils of passing boatmen, then, by this sign it is 
known that the crop is fully ripe and ready to harvest. 
Then, too, have come the mellow days when skies show 
more deeply blue and the depth and blueness are dupli- 
cated on Erie's surface, and every bold bluff and ragged 
rock and flaming sumach is mirrored in the still water. 



430 Grape Culture Amentej the E)ic Isles 

Shadows lie among the grape leaves, and lights softened 
by October haze show np the foliage in golden bronze. 

Looking along the wide, straight rows, you may see 
upon each side only vines in heavy masses — apparently 
running wild — with distant patches of azl^re, showing 
where they end upon the lake front, but the rare clusters 
found nesting under the leaves, as you amble thru, form 
a pleasing revelation. Purple and "olive, ruby and gold, 
according to variety — with a bloom upon each perfect 
berry delicate as frost-film, these clusters embody each a 
poem in itself. So thickly do they hang that in many 
places a basketful may be picked at one sitting. A bundle 
of baskets, a stool or a small box to be used as a seat, and a 
pair of sharp, short-bladed nippers, purpos::'ly made for 
grape-picking, form the grape harvester's outfit. 

For the general trade, table grapes are picked over 
as closely as may be compatible with speedy work, the 
green, rotten, dry and wormy and broken ones being 
eliminated. The picking out of this refuse with the 
thumb and fingers of one hand is the speedier way, but 
the proper method is to cut out with the nippers. This 
leaves the cluster in better shape. When it inclines to be 
"stringy," the stem is cut out. Stems on all bunches are 
closely nipped. 

For the "fine trade," extra time and care are taken 
in picking and packing. The "rounding up" of a basket 
in proper shape requires deftness as well as practice. Like 
a load of hay, it must be built out even with the sides. 
Under the handle it must be heaped high, with a gradual 
slope towards the ends, which — on account of stacking 
for shipment — must not bulge too prominently. Baskets 




I 



Grape Culture Among the Erie Isles 433 

are covered with pink netting which is tucked under the 
rim with a sharp knife. The name of the sender and that 
of the company to whom they are consigned, appear on 
slips inside the covering. 

In working a gang, two pickers to a row were formerly 
considered necessary. This proved a social and pleasant 
arrangement, especially for the slow plodder who was 
fortunate enough to secure a speedy partner, able and will- 
ing to keep up the working reputation of both; a felici- 
tous plan also, where the parties in question represented 
a bewitching maiden and a susceptible young man. Inci- 
dentally, with only the row between them, the opportuni- 
ties for live fun and frolic — saying nothing of flirtation 
and love-making — were never more propitious. Many an 
acquaintanceship begun in the vineyards of Put-in-Bay 
has culminated in a matrimonial alliance in which— it is 
assumed — the parties "lived happily ever after." How- 
beit, the vineyard owner of the present has got "a flea in 
his ear" of large size. Wiser and more practical, if less 
mindful of spooning couples and of slow goers generally, 
his cruel mandate — "One picker to a row" — is now being 
•obeyed, with a perceptible increase in the amount of 
grapes harvested. Each picker must stand upon his or 
her own merits, and as each has a record to make and 
maintain, less time is left for hilarity, and less chance for 
spooning. No self-respecting member of the force wishes 
to be left behind; competition for the leading place is 
therefore excited and some lively races precipitated, in 
which the leaves fly one way and the grapes another. 
Those who first complete their rows are expected to help 
out the others. When the ends are finished they all start 
in upon fresh rows, and the race begins again. 



434 Grape Culture Among the Erie Isles 

However, there are drawbacks even to this delightful 
occupation, when the season grows late and green and 
gold have faded to a medley of browns. "When chill rains 
fall and winds cut sharply across the lake, and mud and 
water stand in the rows, then to sit all day in the vine- 
yard, tho bundled into voluminous wraps, is neither po- 
etical nor pleasant. That, however, is the busiest time of 
all, for the grape grower is nervously anxious to get his 
crop off: before the snow flies. 

Preserved grape juice, or unfermented wine, is boom- 
ing prices and working wonders for the grape grower. 
Unlike wine, this product can not be adulterated, and its 
use is approved by church and temperance people gener- 
ally. It is prescribed for use in hospitals and is appro- 
priate for sacramental purposes. In its making there is 
no working over of old pomace nor any addition of spirits 
or other hurtful substances. In transporting all the grapes 
shipped from the little archipelago, the capacities of the 
island steamers are frequently taxed to the utmost. 



October Grlintings. 



Now through the smoky atmosphere, 
Fantastic lights and shades appear, 
And vibrant echoes far and near, 
The island shores awake. 

By wayside path and thoruy hedge, 
Along the copse 's tangled edge ; 
And midst the miry marshland's sedge, 
Dieth the Golden Rod. 




In the Marsh Land 

By fences rude, and cottage gates. 
The noxious burdock grimly waits 
With bold intent and sinister hate, 
The passer-by to seize ; 

And "beggar lice," and "pitchforks" brown. 
Bedeck the garb of fop and clown, 
And ornament the maiden's gown. 
In novel style and gay. 
(435) 



436 Octohcr Glinfings 

Where erst the campers' tents were seen, 
Beneath the woodland's glossy green, 
And forest giants intervene 
Their wdde extended arms; 

Now broken stakes, and trampled earth, 
"Which relics of the camp begirth, 
A vanished season's festive mirth, 
Alone is left to tell. 

Here leafy showers, wdth gentle pour. 
Have covered all the woodland o'er, 
From mossy glade to pebbled shore 
With rnsset brown and gold. 

Nestled within their earthy bed, 
The leaflets rustle to my tread, 
Or by the wind are briskly sped, 
Over the channel wide. 

Gone is the j^iquant summer girl, 
With laughing eye and teeth of pearl, 
And glowing cheek and glossy curl, 
For summertime is o'er. 

Dead are its myriad blossoms rare. 
Vanished its day-dreams, bright and fair, 
Faded the hopes that budded where 
Dead leaves lie withering. 

But why in tearful grief beside. 

The place where leaves and flowers have died: 

And rest in common burial wide. 

Thus sadly linger now ? 



October Glintings 

For these will shortly come again 
And joy spring forth from bitter pain, 
And nothing shall have lived in vain, 
That we have fondly known. 

And cruel loss, and fruitless toil. 
And grief that made our hearts recoil, 
Shall in a more congenial soil, 
Prove but the goodly seed; 

To germinate, and grow and thrive. 
Till hope and happiness revive, 
For that they, too, shall e 'er survive 
Is universal law. 



437 




"The Gamy Bass. 



438 October GUntings 

So turn we then from pensive themes 
To "where the wavelet brightly gleams, 
And genial sunlight golden streams, 
The vistaed groves among. 

Still brightly mid the trees which crowai 
Yon rugged bluffs that lake ward frown, 
The tall oaks touched with reddish brown 
A softened splendor shed ; 

And maple boughs, and cedars old, 
Display a wealth of green and gold, 
While sumach flaunts in crimson bold. 
Beside the naked thorn. 

Full of its own deep mystery. 
The sky soft blending with the sea, 
A portion of eternity 
Vaguely suggestive seems. 

'■~ Along its blue line pencilled black, 

A smoke trail marks the steamer's track, 
And cruising vessels slowly tack 
Against the channel breeze. 

White sails upon our vision grow. 
And loom against the Western glow. 
Then fading wraith-like from us go. 
Into the distant haze. 

A filmy veil enwraps the isles. 

And each through gauze of purple smiles. 

With all the captivating wiles 

That vouthful maidens know. 



Ocfoher GJiniings 4i9 

Fair "Middle Bass" her greeting sends, 
And "Rattlesnake" its length extends, 
And rocky Gibraltar blends 
To form a picture rare. 

Now rests in dreamy solitude, 
The lonely isle where Perry stood, 
While ballast from its surface rude 
Was taken for his ships. 

But in Lake Erie's diadem, 
And on her jewelled garment's hem, 
The fairest and the brightest gem, 
Is storied Put-in-Bay. 

Here resting in their earthy bed. 
Where willow branches thickly spread, 
And yellow leaflets freely shed. 
Perry's dead heroes sleep. 

Encircled wide by belting beach. 
Inland the trancpiil waters reach, 
And bay and inlet mirror each. 
The cragged, carven rocks. 



Not freely run the gamy bass. 
And in their light skiffs sportsmen pass, 
With hooks of steel, and spoons of brass, 
These finnys to beguile. 

Anon their voices blithely ring. 
And wooded cliffs the echoes fling. 
As outward bound they gayly sing. 
The theme to them most dear. 



440 October Glintings 

On Italy's soil, in sunny France, 
Nor yet when Rhenish waters dance. 
And golden sunbeams warmly glance, 
Through skies of deepest blue, 

Is found no spot more brightly fair, 
With vintage grown so richly rare, 
Sweet scenting all the dreamy air — 
Than on Lake Erie's isles. 

There witching views the sight commands, 
Unbroken stretch the vineyard lands. 
Enclosing with their purple bands. 
The lovely pictured shores. 

There interspersed with rows between, 
And picturesquely clad are seen. 
Athwart the mild October sheen. 
The island maidens fair ; 

And blithely 'mid the foliage dun. 
They gather grapes and have their fun, 
And into mellow rhymelets run, 
"With careless grace and free. 



October Glintings 441 

FROM GOLD TO GRAY. 

Serenely fair, the Autumn day, 
Now softly melts from gold to gray, 
And lengthened shadows thickly lay, 
The vineyard rows among. 

Slowly the evening steamer threads 
Her course by "Ballast reef" and heads 
Bayward, while sunset golden sheds 
A brilliance over all. 

So when for me life's sunset glow 
Shall o'er my path its radiance throw. 
Thus may I pass from all below. 
And bid the world "Good Night." 



Catawba Island, the Great Peach 
Growing Center of Ohio. 



""Why, and wherefore an island?" This question -s 
usually the first formulated and put by the curiosity seek- 
ing stranger who approaches Catawba Island by stage- 
coach from Port Clinton — which, by the way, is the most 
available, and at certain seasons the only feasible, route 
thither. 

A trip to an island by stagecoach, instead of in a 
boat ! The idea appears anomalous as it is novel : some- 
thing similar to going to sea by rail, and, to discover how 
the thing is done, grows into a matter of keen interest as 
the observer progresses. 

His geography informs him that an island is "a body 
of land entirely surrounded with water"; and looking 
ahead — as the driver whips up his team — he vaguely 
wonders wdiere, and how far along, the water lies, and how 
they are to get across it. Imagine, then, his complete 
surprise when, after a jaunt of several miles, the driver 
informs him that the mainland is already far behind, and 
that they are now on Catawba Island. Had the stranger 
turned back a few miles over the route, to a place where 
the two main thoroughfares, the "sand road," and "lake- 
side" road, form a cross, or fork, he might have been 
shown a narrow ditch with an unpretentious bridge 
thrown across it. This ditch, terminating at the lake, is 
all that now serves to make Catawba an island. Old set- 
tlers can remember, however, a narrow but clearly defined 

(442) 



Catawba Ishnul 



443 




Port Clinton and Catawba Island Stagecoach 



channel that extended between it and the mainland. 
Among the Indians who as late as 1831 made the wilds of 
Catawba a rendezvous, there was rife a tradition that the 
course of the Portage River extended originally where 
only the ditch now remains, and that the water of this 
river, flowing towards its outlet at West Harbor, formed 
the island. 

The southwestern portion of Catawba^ — an attenuated 
neck of land — reaches to a point ^dthin about two miles 
of Port Clinton. Advancing in a northeasterly direction 
from this point, the island gradually widens to a breadth 
of about two miles. Its length is seven miles, with a 
shoreline — following the numerous projections and inden- 
tations — of considerable length. 

The ditch, aforementioned, gradually widens into a 
channel, and the channel into quite an expansive body of 
water known by the above-mentioned name of "West 
Harbor," "Middle" and "East Harbor" lying adjacent. 



444 Cataivha Island 

The island's westerly shore is broken by a liue of high 
bluffs — lime rock formations, cave indented and pictur- 
esque. "Sugar Rock," a curious formation on the west 
shore, rises conelike into view, a small lake at its base. 
"Sugar Rock" formed a spot well known and favored by 
the Ottawa Indians, by whom it was used as a burial site 
for their dead; and when before the tribe finally departed 
for hunting grounds farther westward, representatives 
thereof were accustomed to revisit annually these graves, 
there to perform their weird ceremonials. 

Numerous relics, including arrow heads, coins, pipes, 
hatchets and human bones, have there been unearthed 
in recent years. 

"Moore's Dock," on the west shore, a place of some 
interest, is approached from one of the main thorough- 
fares by a branch road that threads its way among peach 
and pear orchards, interspersed by thrifty corn patches, 
and truck gardens. "Sugar Rock," to the left, is covered 
also with well tilled and thrifty orchards. Water lilies 
float on the surface of the lake at its base, which, viewed 
in its setting of trees, vines, and wild vegetation generally, 
forms a pretty picture. 

A number of handsome summer cottages are here 
located, together with those of island dwellers. Moore's 
Dock forms also the headquarters of one of the island fish 
companies, G. W. Snyder & Son. In addition to a ware- 
house, twine, packing, and ice houses, and a small board- 
ing house known as "Apple Cottage," the company 
employs quite a number of men and boats, and operate a 
large number of nets. Viewed from Moore's Dock, on a 
clear day, the court house tower, spires of churches, and 
prominent business blocks in Port Clinton, are plainly 



Catatvha Island 447 




Moore's Dock, Catawba Island 

visible. Many handsome residences and fanciful summer 
cottages are noted at different points southward of this 
place, and on every portion of the island. Port Clinton 
is the official seat of Ottawa County, of which Catawba 
Island forms a township. 

"Peachton," once a post office, was robbed of this 
honor by the introduction of the rural delivery. The place 
boasts of a church — ]\Iethodist Episcopal — ^and a school- 
house. The island cemetery, a well kept and beautiful 
spot, is also located near Peachton. 

The northeast shore abounds also in scenery of an at- 
tractive character ; a secluded, but breezy and restful loca- 
tion, where several handsome summer cottages scattered 
along its curving line are occupied by Pittsburg people of 
wealth, and prominence, who with servants, automobiles 
and other transferable luxuries, come to spend the sultry 
months of sunnner. 



448 Catatvha Island 

At the island's extreme point is situated that which is 
known as "Ottawa City." It's not much of a "city," at 
present date, though a delightful location for one. 

The circumstance which gave rise to the name about 
sixty years ago, was the introduction of the cement 
industry, which promised great things for the island and 
"Scott's Point," as the outer projection was then termed. 
So sure of the rapid development and building up of the 
point, were the inhabitants, that after christening it Ot- 
tawa, after the Indian tribe that last occupied it, they 
tacked on "city." The commercial outlook at that time 
was such, indeed, as to induce sanguine conclusions. A few 
facts concerning the cement JDOom, as given by a Catawba 
resident, are annexed : 

J. R. James, a New York capitalist, it seems, had at 
some time in the island's history become owner of consid- 
erable land along the west shore near "Scott's Point." 
Strong in the belief that a good quality of cement could 
be made from limestone, there found in quantity inex- 
haustible, Mr. James erected extensive works for the 
production of cement, one J. S. Dutcher being employed 
as builder, and superintendent. A large force of men 
w^ere employed to quarry the stone, and to run the works, 
and much interest in the project was manifested. For 
various reasons, however, the business did not prove as 
remunerative as had been expected, and after a five years' 
trial the enterprise was abandoned. Though not officially 
so stated, it was understood that the shipment of an in- 
ferior lot of the commodity, on one occasion during the 
superintendent's absence, spoiled the market and perma- 
nently injured the trade. The machinery was removed to 
an Eastern field of operations; but the large warehouse, 



Catatvha Island 



the deep overgrown quarry, and the limekiln connected 
with the plant, still remain — picturesque relics of the boom 
that bursted. 




The Old Limekiln 



Still another opportunity remains, however, whereby 
"Ottawa City" may yet become a city in reality, as well 
as in name. This undoubtedly may be accomplished by 
an extension of the peninsula electric line to Ottawa 
Point and connecting this terminal with Put-in-Bay by 
means of a ferry line. In this way Catawba Island may 
be made easily accessible, a condition that would bring 
thither a great many people who otherwise would never 
see this interesting bit of creation. 

Ottawa City, of the present, forms an attractive little 
burg with a beautiful shore front, including a fine view 



450 



Cataicha Island 




Looking Shoreward from the Fruit Docks 



of "]\Ionse" Island — owned by heirs of the late Ex.-Pres. 
R. B. Hayes. 

An ample pier, built by the Catawba Island Fruit 
Co., affords accommodation to steamere of large size, a large 
warehouse built thereon furnishing space for thousands 
of bushels of peaches shipped annually to Detroit, and 
elsewhere. 

The Port Clinton steamer "Falcon" also makes this 
dock a regular landing place. 

The dock and warehouse of the Booth Fish Co. occupy 
still another shore point. This company does an extensive 
business. A fruit warehouse owned by J. P. Caugney 
fronts on one of the principal streets. A half dozen hotels 
and boarding cottages once formed a part of the place, but 



Catawba Island 



4ni 



one of the number, the "Pittsburg House," was recently 
destroyed by fire. 

"Lake View House," owned by J. W. Gamble, is 
widely known and favored by a large circle of summer 
patrons, — the island being quite famed as a summer re- 
sort, in spite of its isolation. 

For many years past Mr. and Mrs. John K' Burg 
kept their doors open to summer people, having a commo- 




"Lake View House" 



dious and attractive home in a tree-clad nook of the 
beautiful shore. Though the recent death of her husband 
left Mrs. K' Burg alone with the cares of the place, their 



452 Catawba Island 

old friends, the summer people, still remember her and 
the location. 

Still another old stand at Ottawa City is the general 
merchandise store, of which C. C. West was proprietor 
for a period of forty-five years. Mr. "West, who is the 
oldest man on the island, recently celebrated his ninetieth 
birthday by retiring from business and taking a vacation. 
He was also postmaster for a number of years. Leon 
Stevens and Lake Owens are the new proprietors. Mr. 
Sharp keeps an ice cream parlor and bowling alley. 

A neat schoolhouse serves the wants educational of 
the youthful islanders, and two churches. Episcopal and 
a chapel devoted to union services, point the morals and 
religious sentiments of the community. 

In the place are many attractive residences. The Ot- 
tawa City dwellers are now paving their way to city 
honors by introducing stone paved thoroughfares, and 
their hopes will thus be fixed upon a more solid basis than 
when the stone was made into cement. 

An ancient shore line, set with crags and punctured 
with cavernous openings, crosses Catawba Island — interest- 
ing alike to the geologist, and nature student. There are 
many varieties of plants also, such as are found in but 
few other localities. A line of broken and picturesque 
rocks along the west shore abound in romantic scenery. 

Thanks to the "Nellie Strong," and her master, Capt. 
Eli Rogers, the islanders are afforded facilities by which 
they may reach Sandusky and adjacent islands by boat. 

The tug "Major Wilcox" is frequently seen at 
Catawba during the fishing season. 

While ^Ir. C. C. West holds the honor of being the 
oldest man on the island, "Sir. Lorenzo Bailey is known as 



(Jataicha Island 



455 



the oldest settler. At the age of eighty, Mrs. Flora Porter 
is a round-faced, sprightly woman, wdth a clear memory 
of the early days. 

Returning once more to the subject of the Pt. Clinton 
and Catawba Island mail route — taken all the year 




The "Nellie Strong" — "Mouse" Island in the Distance 

through, it it probably one of the most interesting and 
important found in Ohio. Especially is this true in 
winter. Below is what a Cleveland newspaper says of 
the route : 

J. P. Cangnay of Catawba Island retired from the 
mail-carrying service yesterday, after having been con- 



456 Catmvha Island 

neeted with the Catawba Island route for fifty years. Mr. 
Cangnay has been connected with the mail carrying and 
passenger business all his life, as was his father before 
him. His contract expired Jnne 30, when he was suc- 
ceeded by William Stevens, who received the contract for 
$725 per year. 

The post office is located on the extreme north end of 
Catawba Island, nine miles from the Port Clinton office 
and four miles by water from Put-in-Bay. The greater 
part of Catawba Island is supplied by rural free delivery. 
The island mail is a star route contract between there and 
Port Clinton, on the New York Central, and this mail is 
carried every day in the year except Sunday. During 
December, January, February and March the Put-in-Bay, 
Middle Bass and North Bass mails become a part of this 
contract and an extra trip every day is made to accommo- 
date Put-in-Bay people. This makes two round trips a 
day for the Catawba Island carrier, in the very worst of 
stormy winter weather. 

Mike Carney, six feet five in height, has been a faith- 
ful driver for Mr. Cangnay for many years and is well 
known by the many Cleveland, Cincinnati, Columbus, 
Pittsburg and Toledo people who spend their summers on 
the islands. Many a good story can be told of Mike ai^d 
his various experiences during his cold winter drives. 

Everything dead or alive is hauled by the mail car- 
riers in the same conveyance. If the island people are in 
need of anything in the line of express or freight, a dead 
hog or a live one, even caskets for the dead, their wants 
were made known to ]\Ir. Cangnay, by phone, and he was 
at their service. And their needs were cared for at the 
required time. Many times the mail wagon would carry 
a coffin and in the same rig would ride friends of some 



Cataivha Island 457 

dead person at Put-in-Bay. All would be loaded into the 
little boat and hauled across the lake by the Morrison 
brothers, who risk their lives during the winter months 
in getting the mail to and from the mainland to the 
islands. 

Since the above was published there have been addi- 
tional changes — "Mike" Carney, the driver of reminiscent 
memory, has crossed "The Great Divide," but his team 
of brown bays still does duty on the route. 



The Peach Grrowing Industry of 
Catawba Ishmd. 



A seeming misnomer lurks in the appellation 
"Catawba," as applied to the island when its surface was 
covered with vineyards — the Catawba grape figuring most 
prominently and suggesting the name, once appropriate; 
but having passed through an evolutionary period, the 
island is now transformed into a paradise of peach 
orchards, such as can be found in no other portion of 
Ohio. Few, indeed, are the vineyards found at the present 
date on Catawba. The few that still remain show many 




Scene in a Peach Orchard 
(458) 



Peach Growing Iiuhistnj of Catawba Ishnd 459 

peach trees planted between the rows. When these come 
into bearing, the vines will be dug out. 

J. W. Gamble and A. S. Reynolds each planted about 
1000 peach trees on Catawba about thirty-five years ago, 
this being the first attempt there to raise peaches for 
market, and their neighbors called them "crazy." The 
experiment worked so well, however, that hundreds of 
vineyards were subsequently uprooted to make room for 
peach trees. 

J. W. Gamble had been engaged in orcharding for 
quite a number of years in Highland County, Ohio, pre- 
vious to 1861 and left a fine peach orchard just coming in- 
to bearing to enlist in the 2nd O. V. I., which was later 
engaged at the battle of "Bull's Run." The two men 
above mentioned were the pioneers of peach culture on 
Catawba Island. 

The greater part of the arable land on Catawba 
Island is now planted in peach orchards. 

Until the introduction of the Elberta the varieties 
mostly planted were Smock, and Salway; though a dozen 
or more varieties — early and late — were planted in 
limited area. Today, the Elberta has the lead, and com- 
prises probably three-fourths of the trees now in bearing. 

Probably the largest orchards on Catawba are owned 
by Mrs. W. H. Owens, Cal Brown, Geo. Rofkar, and Frank 
Lathem. Others — most of the growers in fact — have what 
may be termed large orchards. 

Methods of cultivation are practically the same as 
with a crop of corn, the land being plowed and harrowed 
in the same manner, spring tooth harrows and cultiva- 
tors being used. 



460 Peach Grotciiuj Industry of Cataiuha Island 

An important part of cultivation consists in digging 
out the "borer," spring and fall, or using some means 
to kill them in the root. 




Docks of Catawba Island Fruit Company 

Spraying as a preventative of "San Jose" scale, and 
other parasitic diseases is regarded of great value. 

As to marketing, about one-third of the crop is shipped 
over the Fruit Company's docks, via Str. "Kirby," 
and other smaller boats. The other two-thirds are shipped 
from the railway stations — ^Port Clinton and Gypsum. 

To the uninitiated, a ramble through the peach 
orchards of Catawba, in picking time, is a revelation. 

By means of "graders," the peaches, when taken from 
the trees, are speedily separated into lots according to 



Peach Groiclng Industry of Cataivha Island 461 

size. Bushel baskets are used for shipping the fruit, and 
most of the peach wagons are three deckers, drawn by 
double teams. The lineup of peach wagons at or near the 
fruit company's docks, is a sight to behold. 

Still more formidable is the procession of Catawba 
peach wagons as noted on the streets of Gypsum, or Port 
Clinton — market centers — on an average busy day. 



The Last of the Ottawas. 



The Ottawa Indians, who as a tribe had made Ihe 
wilds of Catawba Island a favorite hunting ground, finally 
left that place in 1831, going farther westward to the more 
unsettled country beyond Upper Sandusky. 

Eegarded in the light of our present civilization, 
it seemed a cruel, not to say inhuman, act with which these 
Indians closed their island career; for they left behind 
one of their number, a squaw with seven papooses. Tlie 
reason given by the Indians for so doing was that she was 
' ' not a true squaw. ' ' In what way she had proved untrue 
does not now appear ; but at any rate, she was discarded 
and deserted by her relatives not alone, but also by her 
tribe ; and but for the coming of the pale faces, it is hard 
to say what would have been her fate. 

This woman's name was "Mo John''; she occu- 
pied a tiny hut, and was very eccentric. 

A family named Tillotson- — who came soon after the 
Indians left — are said to have been the first white resi- 
dents of the island. 

In 1832, J\Ir. W. Porter and family arrived from 
Fairfield, Conn. — the trip occupying one month. Reaching 
the peninsula — while looking for a place to settle — Mr. 
Porter hired an Indian to paddle him across the harbor 
in his canoe to that which is now^ Catawba Island. The 
redskin, however, would not permit Mr. Porter to step 
into the canoe unless willing to lie down and allow the 
former to stand over and to hold him in place with his 

(462) 



The Last of the Ottawas 



463 



feet. "No trust white man," muttered the Indian, who 
apparently feared that his passenger might upset the craft. 
It was difficult for Porter to submit to such proposi- 
tion—thus placing himself in the Indian's power — but 
there was no alternative and Porter was forced to accept 
the terms, which he did with the best grace that he could 




Relic of Pioneer Days at Catawba — Photo by Miss Riley 

assume, keeping an eye upon the redskin. Tie latter per- 
formed well his part, however, safely landing his pas- 
senger. 

The Tillotson family and the Indian woman and her 
family were the only inhabitants found when the Porters 
settled on the island, though other settlers arrived shortly 
afterwards, including Charles Porter, a brother to W. 
Porter. 

These settlers lived mainly by hunting and fishing, 
crossing in their boats to Canada from whence they ob- 
tained ammunition, and other supplies. 



464 The Last of tlie Ottaivas 

The first religions services were held at the cabin of 
W. Porter by Rev. John Thompson, a Methodist circnit 
preacher. 

That the Indian woman and her nnmerons offspring 
were not the most acceptable of neighbors is probable; 
still, the whites were too humane to see them suffer, and 
so befriended them as best they could. Later, some of 
these little Indians died, which doubtless was "a blessing 
in disguise," though the manner of their demise excited 
no little comment. 

A cow kept by the ''Mo John" woman had died 

from the effects of having eaten of a poisonous plant 
known in early days as " tremble- weed. " After the 
animal's hide had been removed, the woman was desirous 
of using the flesh as beef, but her white neighbors warned 
her to be careful, saying that the meat might also prove 
poisonous. In answer, the woman intimated that she 
would try it first on her "dogs and children," before 
partaking of it herself. This she did, with the result 
that all of the children died excepting "Betsy," who was 
then living in the family of Charles Porter. Later, the 
"Mo John" woman died, and Betsy ]\Io John be- 
came the last relic of her tribe left on the island. Betsy 
inherited some of her mother's eccentricities, and was 
generally regarded as very "queer." She earned a living 
by working around, among the settlers, and finally mar- 
ried a white man named Lenkent, with whom she lived 
until his death, which occurred some years later. Betsy 
afterwards married another white man bearing the name 
of Bonnet. Betsy Bonnet removed with her husband from 
Catawba Island to "Bogart's Corners," near Sandusky, 
at which place she died in 1909, at an advanced age. 



Fish Hatchery Work at Piit-iii-Bay. 



One of the most important industries of this country, 
having for its object the production and conservation of 
food supplies, centers in the work of the State and United 
States fish hatcheries. Of these, the most extensive found 
on fresh water are stationed along the Great Lakes, the 
hatcheries at Put-in-Bay being listed among the largest 
and best equipped establishments of the kind in America. 




State and United States Fish Hatcheries, Putin-Bay 



Formerly directed by a body of officials designated 
as the United States Fish Commission, the Government 
branch of the work now flourishes under management of 
the Department of Commerce and Labor, and its scope i« 
annually broadening. 

(465) 



466 Fish Hafchfiii Worl: ai Put-in-Bruj 

The Government hatchery at Pnt-in-Bay was erected 
about twenty-four years ago, an appropriation of twenty 
thousand dollars having been set aside for this purpose ; 
though the cost of additional improvements, since made at 
different times, aggregates a much larger sum. 

The changes more recently made in the buildings and 
ajiparatus have materially served both to increase capac- 
ity of the estal)lishment and to facilitate its work, which 
at the lieginning Avas largely experimental — made neces- 
sary by the rapid decrease of food fishes, due to lax laws 
of former years, which gave almost unrestrained freedom 
to gill netters, poundmen, and trap netters, who combined 
to make up the innumerable contingent of lake fishermen. 

Operations at this hatchery began under tl e superin- 
tendence of J. J. Stranahan — formerly an Ohio state 
senator, also an expert in fish culture — under whom the 
task of restocking the decimated waters met with un- 
qualified success, as shown by a perceptible increase of 
fish in lake Erie. 

Advantageously situated on a projection of land known 
as ''Peach Point," overlooking waters of bay, and harbor, 
the hatchery had formed for many years a picturesque 
point in the landscape, when its dignified position was 
further strengthened by the erection close beside it of a 
State hatchery. 

Though less imposing in appearance, the latter adds 
materially to the general effect, besides forming an impor- 
tant adjunct to hatchery work in the aggregate. 

From the "Bay" center, "Peach Point" i^ a[)proa:'hed 
by a circuitous road following the shores of "Squaw 
Harbor." Grounds of the hatcheries show the usual care 
required of his employees by "Uncle Sam," tbe fronting 



Fisli Hatch O'lj Worl- at Puf-iii-Boij 



467 



lawns, that slope gradual to the sea wall, being kept in 
perfect condition. 

The Government hatchery has several entrances, but 
the main doorway opens into an office well furnished, and 
equipped with every requisite for carrying on business 
pertaining to the establishment. Its present incumbent, 
Seth ^1. Downing — also an expert in fish culture — 
has held the position of superints ndent for about fourteen 
^•eats. 




'Batteries'' 



The main body of the structure contains the "'Bat- 
teries," comprising a series of troughs six in number, one 
above the other, which permit of the water being used six 
times. Upon this framework of trougl s are placed in long 
rows the hatchery .jars. Large reservoirs, with smaller 
compartments, and troughs filled with fresh water, used 
f(n' the "fry," when hatched, are aLso observed; together 



408 Fish Hatchery Work at Put-in-Bay 

with an intricate system of pipes, which serve to keep a 
flood of water pouring through the batteries. From the 
main pipes, smaller ones enter and descend halfway to the 
bottom of each jar, which by the constantly rushing water 
is converted into a small but energetic whirlpool that ceases 
not its play from early November, when the eggs are first 
placed in the jar, until JMarch, or April, when a multitude 
of tiny fishes crowd the receptable. Of batteries there are 
seven. Four of the number contain 288 jars each, and 
three of lesser size 180 each. Total number 1692. 

Water is pumped direct from the lake into supply 
tanks of galvanized iron stationed in the second story of 
the building. These tanks, having a capacity c f 18.000 gal- 
lons each, supply the batteries. 

The water main is a wrought iron pipe ten inches in 
diameter, connecting between the tanks at hatching 
station and lake outside of "Peach Point." There is also a 
pipe connection on the bay side to southward. Bay water 
is used only in cases of emergency, however. When re- 
pairs are being made on the big supply main, or in winter 
when anchor ice blocks its mouth, it sometimes becomes 
necessaiy to draw from the bay side, but only for a few 
hours at a time. That furnished from the north side is 
equal in purity to any city water supply in the state; 
and for purposes of fish propagation no better could be 
found at any point on Lake Erie. 

In the engine room may be seen two forty horse- 
power engines, which operate the pumps. The latter are, 
respectively, eight, and ten inches in diameter. 

A large room fitted with mechanical apparatus forms 
the repair shop ; extensive coal bunkers are also noted. 



Fish Hatchery Work at Put-in-Bay 



469 



Ample wharves, and a long pier, afford an excellent 
landing place for boats and steamers of all sizes. 

Five men are employed by the year. To this regular 
force — during the spawning season — about twenty-five 
men are added. This, however, does not include all who 
engage in taking spawn; many of the fishermen collect- 
ing the eggs themselves, which they sell to the hatchery 
at a fixed price per quart. Eggs of the white fish and her- 
ring are procured around the three Bass Islands — including 
Put-in-Bay, also Kelley Island, Monroe Piers, Mich- 
igan, and at nearly all points on upper Lake Erie, 
and eastward as far as Ashtabula, Ohio. Eggs of the 
white fish, herring, and lake trout are collected from about 
November 5th, to December 15th. 

The pike-perch, or pickerel — also known as the "wall" 
eyed pike, and the common ringed, or yellow perch, spawn 
in the spring, season ranging from about April 11th, to 
May 15th. 

A unique feature of the work is the penning of 




Taking Spawn 



d70 Fis/i iralchcnj Work at L>ui-i}i-B:iy 

"green" white iisli ; this term signifying those not ready 
to deposit eggs. The fish pen consists of a l)ox-like frame- 
work of large dimensions, and of strong bnild, with 
enclosing strips of a Avidth sufficient to freely admit the 
water but not wide enough to allow the fish to escape. 
These large crates are sunk in the still w^aters of the lake 
near hatchery buildings. When taken in the poundraan's 
nets the fish are sorted. 

Spawn is collected by pressing gently between the 
hands the fish's body — a pail receiving the eggs. "Un- 
ripe" white fish are placed in receptacles made for the 
purpose. Filled with fresh vrater, the fish are safely 
transported in these vessels to the pens, where they are 
kept until "ripe." There are ten double fish pens at Put- 
in-Bay, and twelve at ^Monroe l^iers, ^lichigan, — a sub- 
station for spawn-taking, contriliutory to the former. 

During the season of incubation, ten men are em- 
ployed at the hatchery, three in the engine room, this de- 
partment being run on eight-hour shifts. 

The "fry" after hatching are liberated in Lake Erie, 
or sent to some inland stream, or lake, before the "food 
sack" is absorbed; no feeding is therefore required. 

Fry of all varieties propagated are planted nearly 
as possible in the spawning beds where the fish would 
have deposited their eggs, had they spawned naturally, 
these beds cover an area of 160 square miles. Fry are 
removed from the retaining tanks into Avhich they are put 
after hatching, by means of dip nets made of fine "bob- 
binet." In connnon washtubs they are carried to the 
wharf and dumped into twelve gallon casks — fry averaging 
about ] 00,000 to each cask. Al,out 100 casks, each trip, 
are carried to planting grounds at different points, on 



Fisli Hatcho'ij Work at Fuf-in-Bay 



471 



board the steamer that is employed in the hatehery 
service. 

The greatest output of fry reported was as follows : 
white fish, 225,000,000; herring, 125,000,000; pike-perch, 
256,000,000; perch, 20,000,000; lake trout 1,500,003. The 
greatest number of eggs collected in one year was 1,049,- 
000,000. 

Fully one-half of the eggs taken are shipped to other 
stations for hatching and distribution in streams, ponds, 
and lakes of inland sections. 

Average number of fr,v tisnied out for the past four 
years was about 300,000,000. 

The Ohio State hatchery operated under the direction 
of its superintendent, F. E. sillier — who has had long 




Str. "Oliver H. Perry" Distributing Fry 

experience in the work — is almost as large as the Govern- 
ment building, its capacity being 1200 jars. During the 
hatching season, it emplo.ys the same number of men, 
water supply is from the same source, and its distribution 
of fry covers nearly the same grounds. 



Fishing Interests. 



In the palmy days of the fishing industry, among the 
islands, an early writer thus observes: 

"If you could see the steamer 'Island Queen,' which 
plies daily between Sandusky and Put-in-Bay, as she comes 
into the harbor every night to sleep, loaded to the guards 
with finny freight picked up from the pounds around among 
these islands, you would stand agape with wonder. This 
boat alone has carried to Sandusky in one season over 400 
tons of fish. As to the amount of fish carried away by 
other craft, sailing vessels, pound boats and fishing 
smacks, we have not the means of ascertaining. 

"Prices have been so cut, that several varieties have 
not been marketed at all, and it is'safe to say that during 
last year one hundred tons of herring, white bass, catfish, 
and sturgeon— known as 'soft fish,' — have been thrown 
away. Even the most delectable Avhite fish — most dainty 
production of the deep — brings to the poor fisherman but 
a penny a pound. So you see that this branch of island 
occupation has become rather scaly business." 

Thirty or forty years ago as well as in more recent 
times there was great distraction of fish around the islands. 

The resident of mature years recalls a period when 
during fishing season the shores everywhere were thickly 
strewn with dead fish which, discarded by fishermen, had 
been carried ashore and beached high and dry by the 
waves, where they lay until they rotted, filling the air 
with a stench almost unbearable. These fish were generally 
of small size, and their capture in such large quantity was 

(472) 



Fishing Interests 473 

largely due to the small-sized mesh in the old-fashioned 
net — a matter since looked into, and adjusted by recent 
fishing laws. 

Fraught with suggestions romantic, as may seem to 
story readers, the life of a fisherman, the fact remains that 
this sometimes rude, but always heroic, "toiler of the sea," 
is of all individuals most prosaic. His hazardous under- 
takings and the constant exposure to which he is subject, 
combine to render him a marvel of hardihood, but wipe 
from his soul every suspicion of poetry. 

The fisherman of the Lake Erie isles is no exception 
to the general rule. His adventures in perilous storms, 
among rocks and reefs, which, throughout these inland 
waters, stand as synonyms of treachery, are none the less 
than those encountered by his brethren of the salt seas. 

Of especial note are the island fisheries, from the fact 
that they center the most extensive fresh water fishing in- 
dustries in the world. A very busy man is the island 
fisherman, especially when owner and operator of numer- 
ous pounds. Closely occupied during the spring and fall 
fishing seasons not only is he, but between times as well, 
in mending and caring for his nets. The more worn they 
become the greater the amount of time and labor re- 
quired in keeping them in repair. The putting in of new 
"twine," as fishermen call their nets, likewise involves 
much labor. 

Netting suitable for fishing pounds is bought by 
weight of dealers in this specialty, and the cutting, seam- 
ing, and tarring of the same form initial steps in the put- 
ting in of new "twine" or nets. The average pound, in- 
cluding "lead," "heart," "funnel," and "crib," contains 
over 6,000 square yards of netting. The lead measures 



474 Fishing hitcrcsis 

anywhere from 990 to 1,320 feet in length. The heart is 
from 130 to 200 feet in circumference; the funnel thirty 
to sixty feet long, and the crib twenty-eight to thirty-two 
feet square. The several portions as here specified are 
formed from nettings of different sized meshes. The 
seams are made with a stitch commonly known to fishermen, 
a wooden needle being used. When completed, a quantity 
of coal tar, prepared by boiling in a large kettle, is eaiptierl 
into a vat, and the net is immersed and kept moving until 
thoroughly tarred. It is then spread out on the grass and 
dried. All nets used in pound fishing are in a similar way 
tarred twice a year, before the spring and fall fishing 
season. The coal tar treatment preserves the twine from 
rotting, but its manipulation roughens and makes sore the 
hands, and the coal tarring process, taken all the way 
through, is a sticky, disagreeable job. 

Stake driving and pound setting are next in order, 
and involve great labor as well as exposure at times. If a 
number of pounds are set in the same locality by any 
single owner, the lead of the second is fastened 
to the first pound, that of the third to the second, 
etc., forming, so to speak, a gigantic piece of em- 
broidery work in hearts and crib.s, united l)y a vine-like 
tracery of leads. The tops of scrubby red cedar trees, 
which abound on the island, cut to a length of four or five 
feet, and lashed fast to the stakes, are used to mark the 
location of pounds; and the novel effect which a small for- 
est of evergreens rising from the waves presents, fills with 
amazement the uninitiated landlubber. 

Pound lifting in still weather is an easy task, and is 
accomplished by two or three men — a big flat-bottomed, 
two-masted pound boat serving for this work. The boat is 



Fisliing lid crests 475 

run close in to the crib containing the fish. The side of 
the net is pulled upwards and drawn into the boat. This 
diminishes the territorial limits of the net, and brings the 




Lifting a Pound 

fish all together into a heap. They are then ladled out 
with a long-handled scoop net and tossed into the boat. 
Trap nets are now used extensively by fi.shermen. 

In the palmy past, concerning which old fishermen tell 
marvelous tales, when the island bays and channels swarmed 
with fishes, and pound netters flourished, and the law 
interposed not its arm between the gill netter and the 
scaly coats, a cruise among the islands, along the shores of 
the peninsula, and upon the waters of Sandusky Bay, af- 
forded the observer an idea of the vast fishing industri'-'S 
of which the islands form a part. Throughout the shoal 
reaches, along the shores of bay and cove, and extending 
far outward into deep water, the lake surface was every- 
where staked, seamed, and buoyed with pound, fyke and 



476 



Fisldng Interests 



gill nets, and nets of every description. Gill nets alone 
were counted by the mile stretch, and their combined 
length as fished in Upper Lake Erie would undoubtedly 
have made a string 150 to 200 miles long. There was no 
protection save in the middle of Erie for any fish that 
swam. Little wonder then that its waters should hnv(> 
become in a measure depopulated. From points all aloni^- 
the lake as far east as Buffalo gill netters came to the is 
lands to fish. From ten to a dozen tugs with their crews 
made a rendezvous at Put-in-Bay, conducting their opera- 
tions in the immediate vicinity, until early winter and tin- 
shutting in of the ice drove them away. 

Kelley Island had also her full quota of gill netters, 
both local and from abroad. To the north of Isle St. 




View in the Twine House of Morrison Brothers — East Sister 

Isle 



George, off Middle Bass and Ballast, around the "Old Hen 
and Chickens" and "Sister" Isles were haunts favored 
by the gill netters. 



Fishing Interests 477 

The rapid decrease of fish in Lake Erie finally aroused 
to action the legislative bodies, restrictive measures re- 
sulting. 

John Darr of Catawba Island is making a specialty 
of carp culture, with splendid success. Beginning on a 
small scale, he now rejoices in a large pond full of mar- 
ketable carp. 



Glimpses of the Undeiwoi'kl at 
Put-iii-Bay. 



That "familiarity breeds contempt" is a saving trite 
but true; the indifference frequently shown by dwellers 
of the Lake Erie Islands coreeiriDg the wealth of natural 
attractions about and beneath them, furnishing apt il- 
lustration. 

There are old residents of Put-in-Bay who have never 
gazed upon the "IMannnoth" nor viewed the wondrous 




Apparatus for Cave Prospecting 

beauty of famous "Cry-tal Cave." Irt) the "Perry" 
they have peeped, but that was ye;^rs ago. Some of thee 
unromantie tilleis of the soil have within their o^\n door- 
yards, orchards, or vineyards, cnverns eou'erning which 
they know little, having pesses&ed neither the curiosity 

(478) 



Glin^pscs of the Underworld at Put-in-Bay 479 

nor ambition to explore. The openings thereto are nsed 
as dumping grounds for empty cues, broken dishes, and 
household debris in general; or as burial places for dead 
dogs, eats, and horses. Caverns hereabouts are too nu- 
merous, or quoting a born-and-bred islander — "too blame'i 
common," to interest the average inhabitants. This in- 
difference is strongly counterbalanced, however, by the 
thoro appreciation evinced on the part of tourists and ex- 
cursionists, thousands of whom annually visit these at- 
tractions, and by scientists who come Icng distances to 
view them. Of the latter, one of the most enthusiastic is 
Prof. G. Frederick AVright of Oberlin College, roted geol- 
ogist, and author of "Man in the Glacial Period." 

As a field for geological study. Prof. Wright desig- 
nated the Lake Erie island as "one of the most interesting 
on the American continent," forming ss they do, an 
important geological boundary. For years past Prof. 
Wright, accompanied by the scientific classes under his 
tutelage has made annual visits to Put-in-Bay and Kelley 
Islands for investigating purposes. 

According to scientific authority, Put-in-Bay and ad- 
jacent isles comprise what remains above the present lake 
level of a narrow unheaval known as the *■ ' Cincinnati Anti- 
clinal," which appeared when all the rest of the United 
States was yet under the ocean. A local upheaval in this 
ridge, centering at Put-in-Bay, brought up a formation 
geologically lower and older than that of the surrounding 
ridge Imown as "the water line of the Niagara group." 
The upheaval formed arches, and subsequent setting left 
chambered recesses. That the substrata of Put-in-Bay is 
literally honeycombed in this manner, by fissured rocks, 
waterways, and caverns, is clearly shown by surface out- 



480 Glimpses of the Underworld at Put-in-Bay 

croppings and interior explorations. These are frequently 
found in blasting the lime rocks for cellars, cisterns, and 
building foundations. 

As may be seen on the premises of Adam Heidler, 
Put-in-Bay, an opening in the basement of an out-house 
leads the adventurer into a wide chamber, and down a 
dangerously sharp incline to a lake that serves also the 
purpose of a well, water therefrom being pumped to the 
surface thru connecting pipes. The well and the cave 
opening are about 100 yards apart. Cats and other small 
animals find passage thru mysterious subways, entering by 
a creviced opening at one place and emerging at another 
far distant from the first. Most island caves contain lakes 
and channels of water, icy cold, of sparkling clearness, and 
of great depth in places. This water rises and falls with 
the waters of Erie, according as the wind is east or west. 
"Water in many Put-in-Bay wells also maintains a level 
with that of the lake, showing close subterranean connec- 
tion. 

Original settlers of the island, in some case^, built 
their dwellings conveniently near caves from which they 
obtained water in supply unfailing. These underground 
recesses were also utilized as cellars. The cave entrance 
was usually enclosed by a small building and a pump con- 
necting with pipes brought up water from below. Tho 
modern methods of water supply have largely done away 
with cave houses, they are occasionally met with. One of 
these houses, with combination cave cellar and water 
supply still in use, may be seen near the dwelling of Phil- 
lip Vronian, a well-known resident, when first explored, 
a human skeleton and other relics were found in a pas- 



Glimpses of the Undenvorld at Put-in-Bay 481 

sage extending from the main chamber, back under an 
overhanging rock ledge. 

In early days, long before Put-in-Bay had been 
thought of as the popular resort which it has since become, 
many adventurers found their way to its shores. Charmed 
with the island's picturesque beauty, and mystified by the 
peculiarity of its surface outcroppings, they were not 
slow in unearthing a few of its secrets. Supplied with 
picks, spades, ropes and torches, they forced entrance to 
mysterious passages and rock-ribbed recesses, finding myr- 
iads of stalactites, massive stalagmites, spar, crystals, 
strontia, and other specimens. Human bones, together 
with those of the elk and deer, were also found. Most of 
the stalactites have since disappeared, having been carried 




Entrance to Perry Cave 



482 (rliiup.ses of the Undencorhl at Put-i)i-B(nj 

awjiy by specimen liiinters and venders, the remaining 
stubs showing where they once studded the lime carbonated 
ceilings. "Paradise," and two small chambers in the 
"Mammoth" are about the only known caverns on the is^.and 
that have not been despoiled. 

Persistent curiosity concerning these underground 
formations shown by visitors, finally induced its owner 
to turn "Perrj^" cave into a money-making enterprise, by 
charging an admission fee. This was back in the early 
'"fifties," the cave was the largest and mcst interesting 
then known on the island. Its discovery in 1813 is cred- 
ited to no less a personage than Com. Oliver H. Perry, 
while his squadron lay at anchor in the bay, a few days 
before the battle of Lake Erie. Tradition says that two 
British officers, suspected of spying, were imprisoned in 
the cave during that period. It was formerly the property 
of Riveria De San Jargo, a wealthy Spanish merchant, 
and exclusive owner — at one time — of Put-in-Bay Island; 
the "Perry" now belongs to Geo. Gascoyne, an island 
resident. The cave is forty feet below the surface. It is 
200 feet long and 165 wide. Tho spanned by a single arch, 
the main chamber would afford standing room for 8,000 
people. 

Heavily encrusted with calcium carbonate, thru the 
slow process of water — holding this substance in solution — ■ 
dropping upon them from the ceiling, the floors form an 
interesting study. This natural paving — begun, perhaps, 
when old Egypt was new — has been going forward ever 
since. Possibly by this same process, a second crop of 
stalactites may be produced in a few hundred or a few 
thousand years, with the stubs of those broken oft" as start- 
ing points. Huge stalagmites, said to have been thousands 



Olimijsefi of the riido irorl'l at Put-in-Bay iS.? 

of years in forming, also appear. Back under eleft and 
broken rocks, stretches a lake of such clearne s that at a 
depth of fifteen feet pebbles may be distinctly seen. A 
boat is anchored upon the lake, and viewed in the brilliant 
lighting the scene is weirdly beautifal. Here also is shown 
the "Wishing Well,'' over sixty feet de-p. Visitors — thou- 
sands of whom frequent the place — all drink therefrom 
first making each a wish that finds — of course — due ful- 
fillment. A side chamber of" smaller size, reached by a 




The "Wishing Well" in Perry Cave 



scramble up a rocky ascent, is known as "Perry's Bed- 
room." The presiding genius of this cavern is its guide, 
who in the interest of science has spent a considerable 
part of ■ twenty-five or thirty years under ground; and 
what he does not know of cave-ology, you may never hope 
to find out. 



484 Glimpses of the Underworld at Put-in-Bay 

Like a passage of romance sounds the history of 
"Crystal" cave, running briefly as follows: In 1882 a 
tourist, Lieut. Vadador, on leave of absence from his post 
in the German army, chanced to visit Put-in-Bay, He was 
learned and cultured, and soon made the acquaintance of 
the late Capt. John Brown, Jr., son of the Harper's Ferry 
martyr — who permanently resided on the island. 
Mutually interested in geological research, they together 
explored rocks and caves. The stranger did some pros- 




Entrance to Cave on Premises of the Late John Brown, Jr. 



pecting alone also, and finding, on the Herbster property, 
rich deposits of strontia, he leased the grounds for a period 
of twenty-five years, and opened up a vein which ap- 
peared to be about six feet thick. A large quantity of 
stnmtia was taken out, and the mining thus successfully 
begun was expected to continue, but for some reason work 
was stopped. The mining implements were enclosed with- 
in a rude structure built over the entrance. This was 
securely locked, after which Vadador took his departure. 



Glimpses of the TJnderivorld at Put-in-Bay 485 

For a time the lease was regularly paid by the holder, 
and occasional letters were received from him by Capt. 
Brown. Then the letters ceased, and for several years 
the lease remained unpaid. The property was finally sold, 
and as nothing could be learned of Vadador, steps were 
taken towards annulment of lease. In this, the purchaser, 
Gustav Heinnaman, was successful. Heinnaman, who was 
also German born, and a day laborer, dreamed not of the 
fairy grotto beneath his land, nor of the fortune that it 
represented, until one day in drilling for a well near the 
abandoned mine, the drill struck into that which sug- 
gested a crevice, or canon, the drill dropping several feet. 
Investigation, which then followed, resulted in the discov- 
ery of "Crystal Cave," — now the marvel of scientists and 
the Mecca of sightseers. It is about thirty feet below the 
earth's surface. Tho smaller than others herein men- 
tioned, its arched chambers, twenty feet in height, form a 




View in Crystal Cave 



i6'6' (Jiiinpscs of iltc U)id() world at I'iif-in-Biii/ 

complete circuit, presenting at every point a solid mass of 
strontia crystals. Tho differing in size, all are of nniform 
shape — eight-sided. Some are of immense size and weight 
Viewed by the interior illuminations, the sparkle of each 
prismatic crystal may be comjiared to that of the clearest 
cnt diamond. 

Lights thrust into creviced niches reveal correspond- 
ing depths of crystalline purity and l)eauty. That certain 
of these jewelled passages lead to other chambers — which 
with the aid of a pick might be made accessible — is an oft- 
expressed opinion ; but that would necessitate the break- 
ing and spoiling of crystals by wholesale, and this the 
proprietor is loath to do, lest it prove a case of "killing the 
goose that lays the golden egg." Strontia was also found 
in large c|uantity, and of the finest ciuality. 

"Mammoth Cave," formerly owned in New York 
City by heirs of Riveria De San Jargo, was recently pur- 
chased by the Put-in-Bay Resort Co. and is now c(mducted 




Interior View of Mammoth Cave 



Giiriipscs of the VndenvorJd at I'lil-iii-Baij 487 

under their management. In shape, it takes the form of 
a horseshoe, tho its side chambers and chaotic rock masses 
impart variety, an effect that belongs to no regular out- 
line. Sixty-six feet below the surface, and reached by two 
flights of stairs, is found a lake eighty feet long, forty feet 
wide, and of such transparency that at a depth of sixteen 
feet, submerged stalagmites may be clearly seen. The 
lake has a shore of sand, and a row boat floats upon its 
surface. Precipitous rocks, ledges encrusted with calcium 
carbonate, and stalagmites of innnense size, everywhere 
appear. Two lately discovered chambers on opposite 
sides of the circular passage, thru which visitors are shown, 
are the only portions that have not been robbed by speci- 
men hunters. Stalactites hanging from lime carbonated 
ceilings here show with novel effect. An occasional glitter 
of strontia is also observable. On emerging, the visitor 
finds himself at a long distance from the building tJiru 
which he entered. Like those of other island caves, ad- 
mitting visitors, this entrance building is of ample size, 
affording space for an office, waiting room, and specimen 
stand. 

Each of the three principal caves have shelter houses, 
where the visiting i^ublie may find comfortable seats while 
awaiting the electric cars, or other conveyances. Addi- 
tional cave improvements are scheduled for 1913. 

For years past the rumored existence of an immense 
cavern near the west shore gained ground. It is now 
authoritatively stated that such cavern is a reality and not 
a myth — as some have supposed— but is very difficult of 
access. 

Though little exploration has yet been made, indica- 
tions point to the existence of a large cave on the Herbster 



488 Glimpses of the Vndenvorld at Put-in-Bay 

place. Another large cave is found in the vicinity of 
Hotel Victory. 

At various points along the shore line may be observed 
the effects of volcanic action, and the honey-combing proc- 
esses following an after-settling of the earth's crnst. 
Rock masses, broken and tumbled together, appear; and, 
when wind trumpets pipe, waves — in tumultous rush — 
carry into their caverned bases a sound as of muffled 
thunder. 




Interior View of IVIammoth Cave 



vVn Important Geological Field ; 
Evidences of Glacial Action. 



Through local reminiscence, and historic record, we 
are informed that an island more than a mile long, one-half 
mile wide and from twenty to twenty-five feet high, 
formerly extended across the mouth of Sandusky bay. 




Famous Glacial Grooves of Keliey's Island 

Fertile meadow was there seen and trees measuring two and 
one-half feet in diameter. But where once flourished the 
island and its products now roll the billows of Erie. 

From this and other circumstances, naturally lead- 
(489) 



490 Evidences of Glacial Action 

ing' to such a conclusion. Prof. ^loseley of Sandusky, who 
has thoroughly studied the lake region, deduces the theory 
that the lake bed is gradually becoming tilted, or elevated 
at its eastern extremity, causing a rise in the average level 
of its head waters and corresponding submergence as in- 
dicated. Since, however, old navigators and others are 
inclined to ascribe this island's disappearauce to the wear 
of strong currents and beat of storms. Prof. ^Eoseley seeks 
to establish his theory by the results of further investiga- 
tion, calling attention to the well-known fact in the eaves 
of Put-in-Bay, the subterranean waters of which rise and 
fall with the lake, stalagmites not only but stalacites are 
found attached to the floor and roofs of submerged cav- 
erns; the latter five feet below the present lake level. For 
these to form in water would be an imi^ossibility and their 
position as indicated shows, according to Prof. Moseley, a 
rise of the water, though other theorists might ascribe the 
circumstance to a shifting and settling of the honey- 
combed rocks. 

Large quantities of submerged timber found in the 
extensive marshlands bordering the lake shores in the 
vicinity of the islands likewise indicate a rise of at least 
eight feet, and the submerged channels of rivers and 
streams in the same vicinity show a rise of at least thirty- 
two feet. These facts are given by Prof. Moseley as 
proofs of a gradual rise of the waters. If the above the- 
ory is correct, then instead of wearing away and draining 
Lake Erie to the compass of a stream, as certain other 
theorists have predicted, Niagara Falls may become tilted 
to such a degree as to finally preclude the egress of the 
lake waters, which in consequence will continue rising and 
extending, sulimerging the lowlands along its shores and 
the islands at its ci^nter until, filled to overflowinof, thev 



Evidences of Glacial Action 493 

will seek an outlet southward from the lake basin to the 
valley of the Mississippi. 

This then seems the fate in store for both island and 
mainland at the head of Lake Erie, unless averted by a 
change in the earth's structural program. However, in 
the event of such a calamity, it is safe to infer that the 
present inhabitants will not be there to suffer from the 
consequent drowning out. 

In the dim past, the islands were alternately sub- 
merged or drained according to existing conditions of the 
earth's formative forces. Says Prof. Newberry: 

"We have evidence that the country about the is- 
lands was once all dry land, and a large river then flowed 
down the present bed of the lake and emptied near New 
York City." 

Professor Moseley observes as follows : 

"If there were dwellers at Marblehead, when the 
pyramids were built, they might have walked to Kelley's 
Island or Put-in-Bay at any time of year. ' ' 

At that period, the island cave passages were sup- 
posed to be tributary to surface streams, emptying into the 
river above mentioned. 

A period concerning which noteworthy evidences 
exist on the islands was that of the great ice age, when 
glaciers 1000 feet in height scooped out the bed of Lake 
Erie, and left ineffaceable grooves upon the hard-surfaced 
lime rock. 

At very many places on Put-in-Bay, Kelley's Island, 
Middle Bass, Isle St. George, "Starve," and other islands, 
scouring the flat rocks and extending under the water of 
the lake, are seen these glacial marks, too indelibly graven 
to be mistaken. Their course runs uniformly from north- 
east to southwest, and the scratched stones and granite 



19i 



Eridcncrs of (Tlacial Act on 



boulders left ])eh!iK] are heaped in tenriiial mi)raiues, or 
scattered promiscr.Ously over tlie land. 

Especially famous are the glacial roeks of Kelley Is- 
land, which, forming the terminus of a line of bluffs over- 
looking ''North Bay," represent one of the island's great- 
est attractions. "Glacial Rocks" comprise a reservation 
rescued from the quarryman's pick and derrick, and set 
aside by gift of the late IMr. Younglove, of Cleveland, to 
the Western Reserve Historical Society, for preservation 
as a scientif.c marvel. 

AA'hen demuded of earth l\v quariymen, whole acres of 
stone land at Kelley 's Island are seen to be fluted by these 
grooves, all of which run in parallel lines, and in the 




•-.-^:!^.--twt 




k <-% . -.. li ' -S^ig^Ig^ ■ w^viwi: 



Glacia! Grooves on Starve Island 



Evidoiccs of OlacidJ Action 495 

same direction. A writer on the subject of glacial action 
thus observes : 

"The glacier may be compared to a mighty rasp; or 
rather to a combination plough, rasp, sandpaper, and pum- 
ice stone — ploughing, scraping, scratching, and polishing 
all at the same time." 

As an example of the stupendous carvings wrought 
by the ''granite chisels" of the drift period, these rocks 
have probably no parallel in the United States, and the 
regular outlines and polished smoothness thereof suggest 
the idea and produce the effect of some gigantic piece of 
sculpture. To view them, parties representing members 
of scientific circles, classes from our universities, curio 
hunters and adventurers make special pilgrimages to the 
island. 

The geological formation of Kelley Island is distinct 
from that of Put-in-Bay, being of Cornifererous limestone, 
blue in tint and lying in strata of varied thicknesses. 

The Kelley Island quarries are productive of many 
rare fossils, those of extinct fishes being especially numer- 
ous. The fossilized jaws of the Onychodiis. a foot long 
and stubbed with sharp pointed teeth, have there been 
unearthed with other interesting relics of by-gone ages. 
J An ancient shore line, which angles across the island, 
forming a zigzag wall of precipitous and waterworn rock, 
and overlooking wide levels where once rolled the waters 
of Ei-ie, forms also an interesting geological feature of 
Kelley Island. 



Winter Fishing Through the Ice. 

Never since its evolution from an experimental stage 
to a full fledged industry, has line fishing through the ice 
afforded island dwellers an occupation so lucrative as at 
the present time. This is due to the fact that those who 
take a hand at trapping the finny tribes, in this peculiar 
manner, have become adepts at the art. 

"Necessity," being "the mother of invention," sug- 
gested improvements in methods of handling the work, 
until operations are now carried on effectively, and without 
undue exposure — in a good season. However, like fishing 
in general on the Great Lakes, the success or failure of 
line fishing through the ice is frequently dependent on 
circumstances beyond control of human agencies, lack of 
solid ice forming the chief obstacle. 

During an open winter, when the lake is thinly en- 
crusted, the industry languishes. Given a favorable sea- 
son, other diiSculties are usually adjustable by the sega- 
cious fisherman, who is a born adventurer. His first con- 
sideration, then, is the construction of a small, light, and 
readily portable house. This meant to give room for two 
individuals — is usually about five by six feet, length and 
width, and of a height sufficient to afford standing space. 

A light frame is first constructed, and over this 
heavy canvas is closely tacked. One or two small windows, 
and a door fitted with latch, and lock, complete the sides. 
The floor, laid with light planking, has a square aperture 
cut through the center. The house is then placed upon 
sled runners, fitted thereto, and a rope attached, by means 

(496) 



Winter Fishing Tliroucih the Ice 



497 



of which it is moved from place to phice. The canvas 
siding and roof are further rendered impervious to wind 
and rain by two or three heavy coatings of paint — each 
man selecting the color of his choice, and applying the 
same with quite artistic elTeet. Both for comfort, and 
convenience, are the interior furnishings. Nails or hooks 




Typical Fishing House 

driven into the woodwork afford hanging places for coats, 
caps, and other articles. A shelf is adjusted to the wall, 
and tv.'o or three benches or boxes serve as seats. Heat is 
furnished by a tiny soft coal burner, made expressly for 
the purpose — a cunning affair. Through a circular hole in 
the roof the stovepipe passes, projecting a foot or two out- 
side. Cheap pictures adorn the walls and books and news- 
papers are seen lying upon the shelf. 

It is not often that the lake is sufficiently frozen to 
move out until after the first of January, and it may be 
even later. With an early closing, the fishermen some- 
times get to work by Christmas. Should the surface be 



498 



Wi)}frr Fi.'^hlDfi Thro]i(j]i ilic Ice 



but lightly frozen, the houses are at first placed near shore 
and gradually moved out as the ice becomes stronger, un- 
til the distance of two or three miles has been reached. 
In locating, the fisher first cuts a hole in the ice correspond- 
ing to that in the floor of his house, then moves the latter 
over it. On each side of the structure a crevice is cut. 
Edgewise into these slots — by means of ropes attached — 
the "anchor stones" are dropped, and drawn up flatly 
against the ice. The rope ends are then fastened to the 
house, which is thus secured from being blown over. 

The fisherman's outfit consists of a large-sized hand 
sled with a high box body. This sled he pushes before 
him by means of handles attached, or draws after him with 
a rope. Coal and kindling enough to last the day are 
loaded, besides an ax, pike pole, fishing tackle, dinner pail, 
coffee can, and whatever he deems needful. A half gallon 
tin pail, filled \\\\\\ fresh water, contains his bait — min- 
nows — taken with a seine through an opening in some 
sheltered cove, or near an outreaching pier. 

His outward attire mainly comprises a coat with high 
storm collar, slouch hat, or close-fitting cap, and rubber 
boots reaching to the thighs. These envelop him so that 
you really can't tell what else he may, or may not, have 




En Route to the Fishing Grounds 



^Vinter Fishing Tlvoiigh the Ice 499 

on in the way of breeches, and other accessories. A pair 
of "creepers," fastened to boot heels to prevent slipping; 
a pair of skates shing around the neck by a strap ; a small 
compass, a jackknife, match box. pipe, and plug' of tobacco 
stowed away in the voluminous pockets of his canvas coat, 
complete the makeui^ of our typical ice fisherman. 

In the waters that surround the islands as a body or 
that divide them one from another, are resorts more highly 
favored than others by the scaly coats. Like men, they 
are variable in tastes, however, and frequently change 
their places of rendezvous. A )iosc for fisli is the great 
prerequisite then for hook and linenien. 

When a "pioneer" locates a spot where fish bile 
lustily, and anchors his little domicile, he is soon joined 
by others; and immediately springs up a flourishing vil- 
lage of fish houses, numbering seventy-five or a hundred. 
Bright with paints of dilferent colors, and cheery with 
the smoke curling from their chimneys, these houses pre- 
sent a novel spectacle. By his ccsily heated stove the an- 
gler sits manipulating through the floor opening his line — 
minnow pail and fish basket beside him. 

In many instances a number of lines are operated by 
one man, the ends being fastened to hooks on the wall. 

There's no calculating on a day's catch. It may net 
the fisherman five, or six dollars, or it m.ay not exceed 
fifty cents. AVhen luck hits him squrrely, he rolls up his 
sleeves and works with an activity that starts the per- 
spiration. When the bites become fewer he cools propor- 
tionately, ties up his lines, and varies the monotony by 
sipping a cup of coffee — ^blithely boiling on the stove— 
after which a book, or newspaper, helps to pass the time: 
while awaiting enlivenment of busine.'^s. 



500 Wi}it(r Fisliing TJirougli ilu Ice 

The line operator is quite frequently annoyed by 
huge lake lizards and a large, but worthless fish, knoAvn as 
the "lawyer," which jointly are credited with drivins 
away desirable game. These pests, when captured, are 
ruthlessly thrown out upon the ice, and are seized and 
devoured by sea gulls — ever on the watch for windfalls 
of this kind. 

One of the finest flavored, and most marketable of 
fishes taken, is the pickerel. Sanger and pike are also 
winter favorites. These command a good price, but it 
costs the fisherman one cent per pound for their trans- 
portation to mainland across the ice. From two to three 
tons of fish are shipped sometimes in a single day from 
Put-in-Bay, a team being kept busy collecting and hauling 
across the island to "Parker's" Point; from whence they 
are transported over the lake to the Ohio peninsula by 
hand sleds, or by boat — according to stability of the ice. 
With solid ice the fish may be carried the whole distance 
by team. 

AVith snug freezing weather, and favorable condi- 
tions g-enerally, ice fishing' forms an easy and agreeable 
occupation, so that women — waves and daughters of fisher- 
men — take a hand thereat with enviable success. 

A heavy snow storm or a dense fog, suddenly precipi- 
tated, sometimes plays them mischief when far out on the 
lake, by completely enshrouding and cutting' of¥ the shore 
view. When widely scattered the fishermen cannot see 
each other, while the compass which should be in the 
pocket of each has been carelessly left at home. 

An instance of this kind occurred at Put-in-Bay 
during the latter part of January, 1902. Busy with their 
lines, the ice villagers failed to notice a fog that came 



Inter FishDig Thvough the Ice 



>01. 




!ce-o-lated 



creeping" over the lake, until the shores were ever>'where 
blotted from viev;. The men got lost on the ice and from 
each other, and had some exciting experiences. Not one of 
the main body Avho were together conld produce a compass, 
and the men were divided in opinion as to directions. 
They shouted in eliorus, hoping to gain some response 
from land, but were too far distant to be heard. A driz- 
zling rain set in about 4: p. m. and a night of densest dark- 
ness was fast closing. The men finally started in different 
direetiojis, each convinced that his was the course that 
led homeward. One party traveled until they struck open 
water. Thus convinced that they had mistaken their 
course, they faced about. Realizing tl'e precarious situa- 
tion of the fishermen, the bell on the island town hall was 
rung at intervals the rest of the evening. Guns were also 
fired, and powder exploded. Guided by these sounds, the 



502 ^y infer Fishing Thwuf/]i the Ice 

wanderers reached land safely; but it was long after dark 
before the last belated party arrived — wet and bedragoled. 
The only compass reported on this occasion guided the 
owner and his party to Green Island, where they were 
entertained over night by the lighthouse keeper, who lived 
alone on the little island. 

The greatest danger that menaces fishermen is that 
w^hich follows a weakening of the ice in early spring. 
Three or four days of beating sunshine prepares the way 
by drilling the surface through with tubular pores. A 
moderate gale, following this "honeycombing" process, 
is liable to break and send adrift the ice at almost any 
point ; and on more than one occasion, fishing houses and 
their occupants have been carried away upon the running 
floes, a notable instance of this kind having furnished 
sensational matter to newspapers all over the country 
several years ago. 

Before a violent gale that suddenly struck a vast 
field of ice containing about sixty houses with occupants — 
including several women — parted from the shore body, 
and began rapidly moving do^\^l the lake. Conster- 
nation among the castaways, and wild excitement on 
shore, were in order. Islanders rushed en masse to the 
scene. Boats were manned and sent after the fugitive 
village. Adventures there were, and hair breadth escapes, 
galore; but the unfortunates were all rescued. A number 
of fish houses were also towed in, but many more were lost, 
together with a considerable quantity of fish, sleds, over- 
coats, wraps, and other property. 



Icy. 



He owned a home in "Herringtown," 
Hard by the shores of Pnt-in-Bay ; 
It measured seven feet by six, 
Its walls were painted dapple gray. 

From opening in the icy floor, 
A hundred finny creatures looked; 
Swarming around the minnow bait, 
All ready waiting to be hooked. 

The landlord of this mansion fair, 
From early morn till evening sun; 
Beside his lines sat day by day, 
A-landing fishes one by one. 

One wintiy morn a catfish swam, 
Unwitting near the tempting bait ; 
It seized the minnow then and there, 
And presently had met its fate. 

Then thought the youth of Mary Ann, 
How much this creature looked like her; 
The same rare captivating smile. 
And movements all with life astir. 

When Sunday came, our hero called, 
To see this winsome island maid; 
An action truly bold, for he, 
Of womankind, was sore afraid. 

(503) 



501 Icy 

Perspiring, from the red hot stove, 
He moved at last beside her chair; 
And tremulous with fright began, 
His lovelorn story to declare. 

"I own a house in 'Herringto\\ai,' 
Just off: the shores of Put-in-Bay; 
If you'll consent to marry me, 
I'll gladly take you there to stay." 

Sweet Mary Ann was much surprised, 
Her cheeks grew redder than her hair ; 
A curl was on her cherry lip. 
And in her eye a lurid glare. 

''Your ice bound home I do not crave. 
Give me a house that will not iili ; 
I'll wait till some man coaies who boasts, 
A house on terra firma built." 




A House in Herringtcwn. 



Icy 505 



Alas! for human happiness, 

Alas for this poor, luckless uigld ; 

He sighed, "Adieu," — and out he went, 

Into the dark and bitter inght. 

With eoniiny dawn, the shadows fled. 
And light of early morning found ; 
This youthful fisherman once more, 
Back to his house in "Herringtown." 

There sits he all disconsolate, 
From early morn till evening sun ; 
With hook and line day after day, 
A-landing fishes one by one. 



Bl(30(l-Ciir(lliiig Aclventui'es on the 

Ice. 



To dwellers on the numerous islands comprising the 
Lake Erie archipelago, nothing affords more general 
satisfaction in the way of winter conditions than crisp, 
hair curling weather, with a registered temperature at or 
below zero. Inured both to danger and exposure, these 
people are not only exceptionally hardy, but courageous 
to the verge of recklessness. Few risks on ice or water are 
there, indeed, which the average islander hesitates to take 
when occasion requires. 

A true amphibian, he is equally at home on lake or 
land, and his blood-curdling adventures form subjects of 
comment to the uninitiated. Narrow territorial limits, 
and a desire to get beyond them on errands of business or 
pleasure, prompt the islander to defy danger and to tempt 
Providence ; and he makes his first experiment when as a 
hopeful in knee-breeches he ignores the injunctions of his 
mama, and tests the new-made ice of bay or cove though 
so thin that it cracks beneath his feet. His relish for ice 
recreation grows with years, and next to a pair of skates, 
most important acquisitions are a skate-sail and an ice 
yacht, both of which he soon learns to manipulate with a 
dexterity wliich would compel the envy and surprise of 
a professional "salt." 

During the frigid season he spends the most of his 
leisure time on the ice, becoming more and more enamored 
of its charms, and correspondingly reckless of its treacher- 
ous character. 

(506) 



Blood-Curdling Adventures on ihe Ice 509 

"And does it never break with him?" 

Oh, yes, frequently ; but notwithstanding the icy baths 
taken involuntarily, his ardor is neither dampened nor 
-chilled. His is a charmed life, apparently. Somebody 
comes along and fishes him out, or his native agility 
enables him to wriggle out unassisted, and he goes on from 
one degree to another until the highest adeptness is at- 
tained in all that pertains to ice navigation. 

A mild winter with slight freezes and frequent thaws 
is not only trying to the islander's patience, but is fraught 
with financial loss to him as well. In consequence of the 
broken and chaotic state of the ice, winter time enterpri- 
ses dependent upon good ice cannot be successfully prose- 
cuted, the crossing is rendered uncertain, and the danger 
from swooping gales and running drift is quadrupled. 
With solid ice bridging the distances in every direction 
the island dwellers rejoice in a temporary expansion of 
territory, and hasten to appropriate its advantages. On 
favorable days during a good ice season a large share of 
the island population may be seen abroad on the frigid 
plains of Erie. Cutters and sleds ■s^^th horses attached 
traveling singly, or in trains, pass to and from the main- 
land, and adjacent islands — Avine-and-fish laden. Large 
companies of men and many teams are engaged in plowing, 
rafting, and storing ice — this industry being extensive 
and important, and storage facilities ample. 

The smooth surface of the bay from which Put-in-Bay 
takes its name, "Squaw Harbor" adjacent, and the chan- 
nels outreaching, present a most inspiriting scene. IMen, 
women, and children, practice the art of skating in all its 
flourish of speed and intricacy. Sail-skating is made a 
specialty, and is much in favor. A large triangular section 



■>io 



BJ nod-Curdling Adventures on flic Ice 



of canvas is used. By its aid the skater is enabled to make 
a high rate of speed, tacking up against head winds in 
exactly the same manner as do sail craft on the water. 
Yacht races and horse races on the ice are live amusements 
which attract general interest. 

Large hand sleds are in general use. They are drawn 
by ropes, or provided with bow-shaped handles at the 
rear, and are pushed along in advance of the skater. Each 
sled is provided with an ample box in which women stow 
their children. The handle serves an excellent support 
while gliding over the slippery surface,' and the little ones 
greatly enjoy the diversion. These sleds are utilized fre- 
quently by paterfamilias in conveying his wife and entire 
brood from island to island, and are likewise indispen- 
sable to the line fisherman. Taken in tow by a sail skater, 
or an ice-yacht, a half dozen sleds freighted with laughing^ 
screaming boys and girls affords an especially entertaining 
feature. 







Lineup of Kelley Island ice Yachts — Keliey's Island 



Blood-CunVing Advent uies on the Ice oil 

For speed in ice locomotion, however, the ice-yacht 
takes precedence. A thing of beauty, and of seeming life, 
is this catamaran-shaped craft. Its single mast is rigged 
with sail, jib and tackle, and trimmed with flag and 
streamer in the same manner as that of the ordinary 
sailing yacht, and the name it bears is redolent of icy sug- 
gestions. To motion, it is the most s.msative object imagin- 
able, as well as the most graceful. Faster than the wind 
is its speed, moving before an ordinary breeze at the rate 
of a mile a minute; but woe to the passengers should a 
snag intervene, of an ice drift sufficient to bring the swift 
Hier abruptly to a halt — a bucking broncho would be but 
mild comparison. Unless securely glued to deck, or spar, 
the passengers, when the yacht stops, go right on, landing 
several yards in advance. Except when under the manage- 
ment of a skilled and careful pilot, the ice yacht is as 
dangerous to life and limb as an unbroken colt — a fact 
which to revelers in live sports adds, rather than subtracts 
from the sum of its virtues. Trips by teams are often 
made to Port Clinton on the peninsula, distant fourteen 
miles, a road thither being regularly marked by small cedar 
trees sharpened at the butts and stuck into crevices 
chopped through the ice. 

As a precaution, Avhen the way is thus uncertain, 
teams — a single horse and sled making a "team," ac- 
cording to the islander's count — generally travel in com- 
pany, keeping close together so as to render each other as- 
sistance in case of accident. 

They go provided with a pocket compass — an indis- 
pensable article in the event of a heavy fog, or snow storm 
— together with ropes, axes, pike-poles and sometimes a 
lifting apparatus to be utilized should a horse break 
tlirough. Where the surface looks especially treacherous 



>12 



Blood-CurdUng Adventures on tlie Ice 



a man goes on ahead, and tests it with an ax or pike-pole. 
Horses accustomed to ice become suspicious thereof, con- 
sequently watchful; moving alertly with ears pricked for- 
ward, and often detecting and shying away from bad 
places even before observed by their drivers. 

Many a thrilling adventure has been recounted of 
islanders en route from the Bass Islands to Port Clinton, 
on one occasion a party of men and six teams, fish-laden, 
left Put-in-Bay for Port Clinton on Thursday, Feb. 81st. 




On the Way to Port Clinton — Photo by Herman Ruh 



In many places the ice had broken up and again frozen 
over; the new ice thus found being scarcely strong enough 
to support the weight of a man. Picking their way around 
these uncertain places, their course was necessarily tedi- 
ous, and zigzaging. They had not been long on the way 
when a heavy fog settled over the ice plains. They pressed 
forward. Hours passed, but no signs of land appeared. 
At last they fetched up on a big iceberg. A halt was 
ordered. They had missed their course, and were evident- 



Blood-Curdling Advent nn s (^n ilic Tec 513 

]y lost on the lake. The apparent iceberg wEuS supposed 
to be Niagara reef, and this uncertain way-mark alforded 
them the only clue to their whereabouts. There were only 
two ways out of the difficulty : one was to remain where they 
were all night, or until the fog should clear sufficiently 
to make out land; or to retrace their way by the tracks 
they had left behind. The clouds were portentous, and a 
very light fall of snow would have obliterated every track 
of horse or sled. Fortunately no snow fell, and by even- 
ing they sighted the shores of Put-in-Bay, having been all 




Tricky Ice Yachts 

day on the lake. On Friday a party of men with eleven 
teams again set out for Port Clinton, and though the fog 
was still thick, a compass which they had taken with them 
gave their bearings. They made the trip in safety; dis- 
charged their cargoes at a good profit, loaded with grain 
and other commodities; and in spite of the rain which 
beat mercilessly, wetting them to the skin, they reached 
home in excellent spirits. 



514 Blood-Curdling Advtntnns on the Ice 

On another occasion two Put-in-Bay residents had 
made the trip to Port Clinton — a distance of fourteen 
miles — with a horse, and cutter, and were returning laden 
with merchandise of various kinds, having left that place 
about 3 p. m. The snow was deep and very compact and 
the traveling hard. When a mile or two on their way the 
horse having become jaded by its previous fourteen miles 
travel from Put-in-Bay, succumbed to weariness and re- 
fused to proceed farther. No other alternative present- 
ing, they were obliged to unhitch the animal, and leaving 
the sled with its unprotected wares, proceeded on fool. 
Owing to the difficult walking the men soon became very 
tired and varied the tedium of the way by mounting and 
riding the horse, each in turn. Even Avith this help the 
journey grew more and more exhaustive, and before they 
had neared their destination, night came on with a rising 
wind and a howling snow storm which blotted from view 
the point toward which they were steering. A reali- 
zation that they were lost on the ice dawned upon 
them with uncomfortable suggestions, considering the fact 
that Lake Erie is quite a big place for waifs and strays to 
get abroad on a night of storm and darkness. At one 
point they struck a streak of slush ice, into which the 
horse sank to its girth and the men nearly to their waists. 
Bedraggled and wet to the skin, man and beast succeeded 
in floundering out of this unpleasant predicament to a 
solid footing. They finally sighted a light, got ashore and 
reached home at about 8 p. m. :\reantime, friends on the 
island becoming alarmed at their nonappearance, started 
out with team and lantern to look for the missing party, 
but finding no trace thereof, returned with the intention 
of enlisting other assistance and extending the search. 



Blood-Cu)dling Advoitiots on the Ice 



5jrj 



On arrival, however, he found the party safe at their 
homes, the men having missed each other on the way. 

Crossing from the "Bay," to Middle Bass, and Isle 
St. George is frequently risky business when the ice is 
uncertain, though the distance is much shorter than that 
to Port Clinton. Occasional fatalities have been recorded. 
Dr. Linsky, a practicing physician of Put-in-Bay, and a 
companion lost their lives under the ice a few years ago 
while crossing the channel. The doctor was en route to 
see a patient at ^fiddle Bass. 




Ice Formation on "Parker's Point" — Photo by Author 



In making connection with the niainlr.nd over the ice, 
Kelley Islanders cross the lake to IMarblehead, and ex- 
periences of a ticklish character are not infrequent, that 



516 Blood-CuvdJinfi Advcuturcs on the Ice 

taken from a Cleveland paper and published as below 
serving as an example. The account runs as follows : 

'■Henry Elfers, Jr., and Chas. A. Himmelein. returned 
to Kelley's Island early Sunday evening after more thril- 
ling adventures had been crowded into the 36 hours pre- 
ceding for them than fell to the lot of the entire population 
of the island during the winter months. Elfers and Him- 
melein made the trip back over the ice in Elfers' sleigh, 
but behind a pair of horses which had been hired for the 
occasion. Elfers' horses were lost through the ice late 
Saturday afternoon when Elfers attempted to return over 
an entire ice-route. 

"On the return trip Sunday, Elfers and Himmelein 
crossed over the bay to ^Marblehead and drove over the 
mainland to Lakeside where they again set out on the ice. 
This time they drove to the island without accident. 

"As was told in Saturday's Star Journal, on the 
trip over from the island Saturday morning, the bobsled 
with seven passengers went through the ice. Two barrels 
of wine were lost, but the passengers, horses and sled were 
saved. Landing the passengers at Marblehead. Elfers and 
Himmelein proceeded to Sandusky but had only gone a 
short way before the horses broke through again. And 
again they were pulled onto the firm ice and finally the 
city was -reached. 

"Elfers and Himmelein started back late in the after- 
noon and, in leaving the bay to enter the lake, followed 
what is known as the ' wagon track. ' Al)Out half a mile from 
the bay point on ]\Larblehead, the team went through the 
ice, carrying the sled, two passengers and cargo Avith them. 
The water was about ten feet deep. Elfers jumped into 
the water and swam to the horses. With a knife he at- 





^ <0 
C 0) 



Ll 



ra 



:: 4) 



■f UJ 



Blood-Cufdlinfi Adventures on the Tee 



519 



tempted to cut the harness off the animals and succeeded 
in partially freeing^ the horses. All efforts to get them 
back to the firm ice, however, failed and they died of 




Str. "Tourist" Breaking Ice 



either exhaustion or strangulation. Elfers and Himme- 
lein returned to Sandusky on foot, both soaked to the skin 
and both badly chilled. 

"Sunday morning Elfers and Himmelein, accom- 
panied by several others, went out and recovered part of 
the cargo lost Saturday. Lay Bros, secured $75 worth of 
t^dne which w^ent over, while two barrels of beer, some 
lard and some oysters were also brought np with the pike 
poles. The horses were lying with their heads on the ice. 
With great difficulty, the men get the bobsled out again. 



520 Blood-Cnrdling Adi( ntuics on the Ice 

The strong current around the ends of the peninsula is 
thought to have weakened the ice. 

"Seen at her Cleveland home by newspaper reporters 
Sunday, Miss Ruth Silburg, aged 17, laughed at her nerve 
racking experience Saturday on Elfers' bobsled. She 
was one of the seven passengers when the sled and horses 
broke through en route to Sandusky. 

" 'I can't recall what I did when the sled went 
through the ice,' she said yesterday. 'I guess I must have 
clung to the ice, or the sled or something or other, until 
Mr. Himmelein dived in and pulled me out. I do know I 
would undoubtedly have drowned but for him.' " 

In former years the well known "ice breaker,'^ 
"American Eagle," kept the lake open between island 
and mainland long after the light stations had extin- 
guished their beacons, the Government buoys had been 
removed, and all other lake craft were all snug in winter 
quarters. The "Eagle," was commanded by Capt. Fred 
E. Magle, his son-in-law, A. R. Bruce, filling the position 
of purser. The steamer did strenuous service for the is- 
lands, but was finally superseded by Str. "Lakeside." 
Str. "Tourist" — though a craft of small size — does con- 
siderable winter cruising, with an occasional hair-lifting 
adventure. 

The breaking up of the ice after a hard winter and 
long freeze involves chaos, such, we imagine, as must have 
brooded over "the great void" before the spirit of creative 
power moved upon the face of the waters. An inland sea 
seeking escape from thralldora presents a spectacle of 
grandeur, embodying as it does the warring elements. 
Advances and retreats are made to the flourish of wind 
trumpets. Vast plains of ice drive down with the weight 
of an avalanche ; and on-rushing waves, a force of ecpial 













■ 






1 



BJood-Cuvdling Advent ufcs on tJie Ice 525 

power, meet the -icy foe and shatter and channel its solid 
line, sending adrift towering masses, solitary bergs and 
■crystal islets, eragged and castellated. The waters foam 
•and spout and surging floes crash against each other, firiing 
the air with a roar like the thunder of battle. 

It is then that the shores lying to weatlierward are 
piled witli ice in windrows, hillocks, and small mountain 
ranges. The ice formations at Catawba Island during 
the winter of 1911 were simply marvelous. The ware- 
house at the end of the long pier, used by the Catawba 
Island Fruit Co., was a most fantastic object viewed in 
its ice trimmings. A photograph thereof taken by Mrs. 
Wallace Smith of Catawba, and copyrighted by Connfrrj 
Life in America, is here used by permission. 

On windless days when the waters rest, the million 
shaped ice fragments floating upon the surface show a 
A'^ariety of beautiful tintings in neutral tones of grey and 
white, steely blue and pearl, which, touched by the sun's 
rays, flash with iridescent splendor, each glistening point 
a prism. With its pointed rays the sun drills the ice 
through and through ^\\i\\ tubular pores until each solid 
mass becomes a veritable honeycomb, which a slight blow 
shatters into hundreds of long icicle-like fragments. That 
which the wind does by force, the sun accomplishes by 
strategy; for when the ice is once in this condition, it 
vanishes so suddenly that the observer wonders Avhat be- 
came of it. 













A Bit of Iced Rock 



Carrying the Mail. 



As notable examples of hardihood, sagacity and ex- 
perience in ice travel, may be mentioned the representa- 
tives of the U. S. mail service doing duty between the is- 
lands and mainland. In accordance with existing postal 
regnlations, the Put-in-Bay mails cross the lake twice 
daily — going and coming — between the island and penin- 
sula ; with an extension of these trips to Middle Bass, and 
Isle St. George — the Bass Island line connecting with that 
of the Catawba Island and Port Clinton mail route. 

The individual who fills the position of mail carrier 
must be possessed of agility and alertness, unflinching 
courage and physical endurance. He must thoroughly 
understand the ice, its foibles and weaknesses ; must know 
where the undercurrents, which wear it, are strongest, and 




Bass Island Mall Leaving Bay Post Office 

(^27) 



'528 Carrijiiig the Mail 

be able to locate shoals and snnken reefs — dangerous to 
the ice navigator as to the mariner. With a light horse 
and cutter, or with iron-sheeted boat made expressly for 
the purpose, he daily traverses miles of ice. precarious 
and uncertain, sometimes dragging the boat, but often 
forcing it through by means of oars and pike-poles; and 
he must work his cards well at times to prevent being 
caught and crushed in the grinding drifts that sweep 
down upon him. 

The most dangerous period of travel is when violent 
gales have extensively broken the ice and piled it in 
slushy gorges many feet in depth. On days when even the 
hardiest knots among island denizens hug closely the stove 
and incessantly smoke their pipes to keep warm, the mail 
carrier and his assistants are abroad on the lake. 

For rapid transit from place to place, the ice yacht 
is an object of utility, and when conditions are favorable, 
it is sometimes used in carrying the mails, though the iron 
sheeted mail boat used for this purpose is fitted with oars, 
sails, and sled runners. The sails may be used either on 
ice or on water; so that the craft is practically a combina- 
tion sailboat, rowboat, ice yacht, and sled. 

Probably one of the most hazardous experiences ever 
endured on the island mail route, however, was during the 
winter of '97 and '98 by the Hitchcock brothers— U. S. 
mail representatives. Caught in a storm and running ice, 
they were carried down the lake hy the resistless force of 
a drift in which they became wedged. The boys were 
given up for lost by the excited islanders who at various 
points thronged the shores. A cablegram wired to Kelley 
Island read: "Look out for the carriers; they are fast 
in the ice and drifting that way." 



Carrying tlw Mail 



29 



Howbeit, to the intense relief of all, the carriers 
succeeded in escaping from the drift, and after a des- 
perate struggle reached shore. 




Mail Boat En Route to Catawba 



They were, in an exhausted condition and so complete- 
ly covered and weighed down with ice as to be perfectly 
helpless. Their caps were frozen fast to their heads and 
their garments so loaded with ice from the showering 
spray that the wearers were unable to bend. 

On arrival at home their friends were obliged to cut 
and tear from them their ice-armored clothing which they 
exchanged for warm, dry garments. After changing cloth- 
ing, a bushel of ice that had fallen off in the process was 
swept from the floor. 

For several years past, George and Charley Morrison 
have been employed as carriers on the Bass Island route. 
They, too, have passed through many arduous and trying- 
experiences, and have had several close calls. Out on the 
lake in all kinds of weather, with ice conditions of everv 



530 



Carrying the Mail 



description, they battle frequently with storm, and run- 
ning ice, fog, and blinding snow. 

In open water they use a launch in making trips a- 
cross the south channel, later the mail boat — when ice is 




Mail Boat Crossing Open Water 

yet thin, — breaking a passage with pike-poles. At other 
times they haul the boat over the ice by ropes attached. 
With good ice they use a sail, providing the wind is fait. 
With a combination of bad ice and deep snows they are 
sometimes forced to make the trip on foot, with pike-pole 
in hand, and the mail bags slung across their shoulders. 

On landing in stormy weather the oil hats and hair 
are fantastically trimmed Avith icicles, and their oil top 
coats thicklv incrusted with ice. 



Carrying fJif Mail 



'531 



Formerly associated with George Morrison in the mail 
carrying service was his brother-in-law, Carl Rotert. 
Having confronted apparent danger in many forms with- 
out serious results, the two were unexpectedly overtaken 
by an accident, which resulted in the drowning of Mr. 
Rotert. Amongst the various commodities carried in the 
boat was a long, unwieldy piece of metal, Avhich was very 
heavy. This, in some way Avhile working boat over the 
ice became shifted, tipping and suddenly capsizing the 
boat. Just how it happened Mr. Morrison hardly knows; 
but a few moments later he found himself struggling in 
the water. With great difficulty he succeeded in extrica- 
ting himself. He looked for his companion, but Mr. 
Rotert had disappeared — doubtless carried away under 
the ice. Mr. Morrison made a desperate effort to find the 
young man, but without avail, and having lingered around 
the spot until every possible hope of finding him alive 
had fled, ]Mr. Morrison nuide his way shoreward. Terrible 
as was this experience, another ordeal almost as terrible 
awaited him — if he succeeded in reaching shore, which at 




Sheeted with Ice 



532 (Jarryi)ig fJie Mail 

times seemed doubtful — this, was tlie breaking of the 
dreadful news to the young man's wife and friends on 
shore. Besides the shock sustained, "Sir. Morrison was 
physically exhausted when he reached shore and almost on 
the verge of nervous collapse. Men and boats hastened to 
the scene of the accident but every effort to find the body 
proved futile. 

When the ice broke up in the spring a "floater" was 
picked up — it proved to be the remains of young Rotert. 

The "Kelley's Island"' mails are carried at the present 
time by Erne brothers of that place. Their predecessor. 
Henry Elfers, known as "Veteran mail carrier of the 
Islands," held this position for over forty years, having 
had during that time hair-breadth escapes and adventures 
galore. On one occasion when abroad with horse and 
cutter, the ice broke up, and the horse was brought ashore 
in a rowboat. 

Part of an interview with a newspaper reporter, as 
given below, throws light upon some of ]\Ir. Elfers' ex- 
periences. 

"AVhen I was a youngster," said Elfers, as he settled 
down for a good talk in the office of Schardt's hotel on the 
water front, "I was out in a boat about all the time. Now 
I don't care for ordinary sailing, but battling Avith the ice 
has a fascination for me. As soon as ice begins to form 1 
feel eager to get out one of the ironclads and fight my way 
across. Ironclads? I've got two. They're the boats I use 
in carrying the mail, passengers, express and freight. One 
is 1-1 and the other 16 feet long. Each is a flat-bottomed 
skiff. There's a sail in the bow to carry us through the 
water or over the ice when conditions are right. There are 
two iron-.shod runners on the bottom so the boat may be 



Carrying the Mail 



'531 



used as a sled. The sides are sheeted with galvanized iron. 
That is very important, because thin ice will cut a boat 
like a knife. 




Henry Elfers, Veteran Mail Carrier of Kelley's Island 

"From here to Sandusky is ten miles in a direct line 
and I go there when the conditions are good. At other 
times I go to ^Marblehead, which is four miles away, and the 
nearest point on the mainland. I have sailed those four miles 
over smooth ice in 20 minutes. I have covered the same 
distance in eight hours. That was when the ice was about 
one and one-half inches thick and I had to break my way 
over every foot of the four miles. At times the lake has 
been covered with icebergs, 20 to 30 feet high, and I have 
had to travel 15 miles in a roundabout course to reach 
Marblehead. 



',34 



Carrying the Mail 



"In the winter of 1896, I started back from Marble- 
head, with my son, and we got to within half a mile of the 
island when we were caught in a blizzard. The thermom- 
eter was below zero. The wind blew 55 miles an hour. Snow 
filled the air so I could not see my son at the other end of 
the 16-foot boat. We could not land here on account of 
rotten ice banked against the shore and had to fight our 
way back to ]\Iarblehead. Spray broke over the boat and 
our clothing was a mass of ice. The sail w^as torn to 
pieces. We battled with the blizzard four hours before we 
succeeded in reaching Marblehead. 

"At 8 o'clock, one night, I had almost reached the 
island when T found I could not laud on account of run- 
ning ice. I turned toward Marblehead, but lost my way 




Kelley's Island Mail Boat 



Carrijing f/ic Mail 535 

in a fog and did not reach there until 3 o'clock, next morn- 
ing. 

"Twice the life-savers came out and got me when high 
seas and running ice made it impossible for me to land 
without their help. 

"Often I have to traverse alternating sheets of clear 
water and fields of ice, and I can tell yc-u it is hard, tedious 
work. 

"A professional star route contractor once bid in the 
route, but he quickly gave it up when the ice began to 
run. He had underbid me. The department let him out, 
which is something it would not do for me if I made a bad 
bid, and gave the route to me at the terms for which I 
had offered to do the work." 



zVutomobilins: Across Lake Erie. 



When the automobile party of five started from 
Catawba Island, their proposition to cross Lake Erie on 
ihe ice to Canada was really a lilnff, or joke, since the 
feasibility of such an nndevtnking h?d not then suggested 
itself. The idea grew upon members of the party as they 
advanced, however, until they finally decided to make the 
attempt. 

The party consisted of J. P. Cangney, John Darr, 
Capt. Wallace Smith, L. B. De Witt, and J. C. West. 

From Catawba the run Avas made direct to Put-in-Bay. 
There they crossed to North B;'.ss. The party then headed 
for Pelee Island, which tliey reached in safety. Here 
they were joined by Dr. 0. B. Van Epps. Leaving Pelee 
Island, they headed northward for Leamington. 

Several cracks in the ice, of varying width, 
were crossed. In so doing two men were placed on 
each side of the opening, so as to give assistance if needed. 
Then backing the machine about fifty feet, the driver 
sent it forward at topmost speed, clearing the crack at a 
flying leap. 

AA^hen still a few miles otf Leamington the party was 
met by a reporter of the London (Ont.) Free Press — • 
telegraph messages making inquiries concerning their 
safety having preceded them. These messages had served 
also to set the townspeople on the qui vive, and many of 
them were out on the ice watching for the expected party 
from the States, some of the crowd had marine glasses 

(f36) 



Aiitomohiling Across Lake Erie 537 

with which they swept the southern horizon, sighting at 
last the approaching auto, dimly outlined upon the horozon. 
Their progress, however, was interrupted, when near 
their destination by a crack of such width — ten or twelve 
feet — that it could not be crossed as the other openings 
had been. After deliberation they decided to follow the 




Auto Crossing Crack in the Ice 

course of the opening, hoping that it might narrow to a 
point that would permit of a crossing being made. In 
this they were disappointed, however; but after following 
the crack a considerable distance they reached a point at 
which the water was bridged with sixteen foot lengths of 
heavy boards. This bridge was a welcome surprise, for with- 
out it they would have been compelled to abandon the 
undertaking. This bridge — as afterwards developed — 
took shape in a peculiar manner. A sled load of tobacco 



Automobiling Across Lake Erie 




The Rivals — Auto and Ice Yachts 



and its driver from Pelee Island, bound for Leamington, 
had reached this obstructing crack just as a load of 
lumber from Leamington to Pelee Island got there, and a 
part of the timber was utilized in building the bridge. 

After spending the night at a Leamington hotel they 
started back next day, encountering a heavy snow storm, 
finally reaching Catawba Island safely. This was the first 
and only trip made by automobile across Lake Erie. 



A Bunch of Emeralds. 



Mere dots as they are on the broad bosom of an inland 
sea, the reminiscent lore attaching to the smaller islets 
dating from their early history is interesting. 

While too limited in extent to afford room for more 
than a few occupants at a time, the fact that so many in- 
dividuals, singly, or as families, should have sought at 
various times the seclusion of bounds so narrow, is a 
matter of surprise. Instances of the occupation of each 
by single families have been numerous, while correspond- 
ingly marked has been the tendency toward Crusce life. 

As will be seen on reference to the map, the islands 
in question are scattered promiscuously among the larger 
members of the group, and may be enumerated as East, 
West and Middle Sisters, Green Island, Rattlesnake, 
"Gull," "Sugar," "Mouse," "Lost Ballast," "Hen and 
Chickens," North Harbor, Middle Island, "Buckeye," 
and "Starve" and "Fighting" Islands. 

Among early occupants of West Sister Island, figured 
the name of Dr. Girty — brother of Simon Girty — "Tory 
of the Western Reserve." In the early "fifties," Dr. 
Girty practiced medicine among the few inhabitants of 
Put-in-Bay, and was the first of his profession to locate 
among the islands. That any practicing physician should 
have selected a place so difficult of access to his patrons, 
remains a mystery. 

At another period of its early day history, the island 
was occupied by a family consisting of two men, two 
women and a child. They were French Canadians, and 

(539) 



540 A Bunch of Emeralds 

had a boat with which they transported needed supplies 
from the mainland. All went well until winter closed in, 
and they were surrounded by ice. The child was taken 
sick — Dr. Girtv did not then live on the island — and died. 




A Glimpse of Starve Island — Photo by Author 

Wishing to bury the child near their Canadian home, the 
two men started across the ice, having between them a 
boat in which was placed the remains. 

The ice was in a precarious condition, the wind sprang 
suddenly from a breeze to a fierce gale, the ice broke up 
and the men never returned to West Sister. The women 
remained imprisoned for several weeks on the lonely isle. 
Their only boat was gone and their supplies nearly ex- 
hausted. 

Finally with the opening of navigation a cruising 
vessel chanced to pass near the island. The attention of 



A Buncli of Emeyalds 



541 



some one on board was attracted thereto by the flutter of 
a white flag. Two women were noticed, standing on the 
beach ; they were frantically waving that which proved to 
be a white tablecloth fastened to a pole. A boat was 
lowered and sent to the island. The women told a pitiful 
story of loneliness and privation, having but little left to 
eat. They were taken on board the vessel and their wants 
supplied. When the vessel reached its destination they 
were sent to their Canadian home. The men, their 
companions, were never heard of again and doubtless met 
death beneath the waves. 

Several years ago East Sister Isle became the property 
of James Morrison of Put-in-Bay. Mr. Morrison built a 
small house on the island and engaged in fishing and 
farming. The waters were well stocked with fish and the 
land was very fertile. 




542 



A Bunch of Emeralds 



Frequent trips were made by Mr. Morrison between 
Put-in-Bay and the "Sister," in an open pound boat, 
bringing over loads of fish, fruit and vegetable products for 
shipment at Put-in-Bay, or Isle St. George. He was 
usually accompanied on these trips by one or more of his 
four sons; and his daily life bore a spice of adventure. 
The winds ofttimes were contrary, the sea tempestuous, but 
patience, and courage never failed, and he was always 
successful in landing his cargo. 

The island is now owned l)y the widow of James 
Morrison, and large quantities of fish are still taken from 
adjacent waters. 

As a lighthouse station. Middle Island, situated in 
Canadian waters south of Point au Pelee and containing 
but a few acres, has formed for many years the abode of 




Bass Fishermen at East Sister Isle 



a whole series of government employes whose main occupa- 
tion it has been to kindle and keep burning through nights 
of storm and darkness the lights within its gray old tower, 



A Bunch of Emeralds 543 

occupying in turn with their families or alone the one 
modest dwelling w^hich the island contains. 

Drawing from their personal experiences, the light 
keepers of Middle Island have contributed in ample mea- 
sure to stories of adventure, and often of hardship and 
privation incidental to a life so isolated. 

On yet another occasion a solitary occupant of the 
island during the winter season was taken seriously ill 
and lay for several days uncared for, his only medicines 
comprising a few simple herbs, his only companion a dog. 

In like manner the keepers of Green Island light have 
had during the years intervening, since the building of 
the first lighthouse upon its shores, many haps and mis- 
haps which if woven into story would make interesting 
reading. An occurrence most notable in the history of 
Green Island was the burning in 1864 of the lighthouse 
above mentioned, an account of which is elsewhere given 
in this volume. 

For a number of years rocky little Rattlesnake w'as in- 
habited by a family bearing the name of Hammond, but 
later formed the summer residence of Capt. Freyense, of 
Sandusky, who annually repaired thither with his family. 
A romantic interest attaches to the place. 

For many years after the settlement of the principal 
islands, the "Hen and Chickens," lying north of the Bass 
group, w^ere uninhabited. The "Hen" was finally settled 
by one Captain Blanchard, who came to be known as "the 
hermit of the old Hen." Unlike the proverbial recluse, 
Captain Blanchard was an able man financially and his 
hermitage formed a quiet, but very comfortable retreat, 
in which during the summer season he received and 
entertained manv friends from a distance. Tired at last 



544 A Bunch of Emeralds 

of his solitary life Captain Blanchard sold the "Hen" and 
her brood to a party of Sandusky gentlemen. An elegant 
and commodious structure was erected near the site of the 
hermitage and christened — "Quinnebog Club House,'' 
and semiannually its members repair thither to fish for 
black bass and run wild. 

For a time the only inhabitant of "Ballast" was 
"Uncle Jimmy," who occupied a humble cot and posed rs 
monarch of all he surveyed, until after the purchase of 
the island by Cleveland parties and subsequent erection 
of a club house and cottages. 

"Sugar," containing an area of about fourteen acres 
lying between Middle and North Bass, possesses varied 
attractions and is favored as the resort of camping and 
fishing parties. 

Concerning "jNIouse" Island, a visiting journalist thus 
writes : 

"It is a little gem of an island on the south shore of 
Lake Erie just a stone's throw from Catawba Island. May 
it be your good fortune to see it by moonlight, with Green 
Island light blinking sleepily over the port quarter. Then 
see it with each leaf in the gentle silhouette. Here are 
bays and capes in miniature, and pretty little harbors 
where fairy fleets might anchor." 

"From Catawba Island the telegraph cable takes a 
long leap — stops a moment at 'IMouse' Island and then 
plunges into the lake to go to Pnt-in-Bay. The happy 
swallows gather on the wire in August before their trip to 
the South and talk over the coming journey, all uncon- 
scious of the messages under their feet, messages of births 
and deaths and marriages that shall make the heart 
flutter, many a cheek to pale or flush at Put-in-Bay. 



A Bunch of Emeralds 



545 



What do the swallows care? Kobins, too, shall sing a sunset 
carol for you on the wire, and you may sink to sleep with 
the echo of his gentle vesper in your ears. 

"You might have seen Perry start out from here 
several years ago with his fleet. How queer those old ves- 
sels would look now ! 

"On this shelving beach many and many a time lias 
the bark canoe of the Indian grated. Here he was ab- 




sorbed in thoughts of his spirit, and here, too, he probably 
absorbed a great deal too much spirit, after the white man 
came. 

"If you do go to Mouse Island this summer, the 
memory of it shall have its halo for you." 

IMouse Island — it may be added — has won distinction 
as having once been the property of Ex-Prest. Ruthei'- 
ford B. Hayes. It now belongs to his heirs. 



546 A Bunch of Emeralds 

"Gull" formed in early days a resort both for sea-gulls 
which repaired thither in flocks to lay their eggs in the 
sand, and for adventurers who went to gather them. 

"Buckeye" and "Lost Ballast" are gems in mini- 
ature. Only fifteen or twenty years ago the latter was an 
extension of Ballast Island proper, from which it was cut 
by the wear of waves, and is now separated by a sweep of 
water. Covered with trees and shrnbbe'y, this tiny islet 
— subsequently named "Lost Ballast" — forms an emerald 
setting in the blue water. 

"Starve" Island is said to have taken its name from 
the melancholy fact that somewhere about the opening of 
the present century a sailor got stranded thereon, where 
he starved to death. The skeleton of the unfortunate man 
was afterwards found bleaching upon its barren shore. 

Starve Island forms a mass of rock and scant veget^.r 
tion and its adjacent reefs are known as danger points ana 
carefully shunned by cruising vessels. It boasts not even 
a Crusoe. 




Finis. 



H 17 90 



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°o°-*:/\.^;:X->:^ 

















C, tP 




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HECKMAN 

BINDERY INC. 

j^ DEC 89 



N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 



F^l^^ 



• 4 




